TxTruckMan

How and why did you gut the third cat?

Why don't they show anything below 2500 rpm? I want to see what they look like in the "normal" driving region.

Tuning is the one area where I think the OEMs have consumers by the balls with respect to warranty. I think any laws favor OEMs with respect to the tunes. Under normal circumstances, yes, they have to prove that the mod led to the failure. That's easy and more clear with suspension lifts, larger tires, power-hungry accessories, etc., but tunes could be added and removed without them knowing. Hence why they added the tracking. And why would they add the tracking if they don't think they could use it against you? They wouldn't. It would be a waste of money and effort. Don't be fooled, OEMs know that tuners can modify all sorts of parameters that can potentially and very easily damage your engine. And they know that tunes can be removed before service. That's why they implemented the new tracking protocols. I have no doubt that if you get caught with any tune and a powertrain failure that they will blame it on the tune. Knowing that you modified the engine and/or tranny in a way that it was not designed to operate is all the "proof" that they need to void your powertrain warranty. That's the sole reason for adding the tune tracking - warranty protection. That being said, I would still consider a tune in the future. The main concern right now is with long-term reliability of these new engines and all the TSB/recals that could possibly occur. Give the engines a year or two to see how they last and to let a majority of the problems be worked out. Then if no significant problems, tune away. Or if you don't plan on owning your vehicle for more than a couple of years, tune away. Just do it understanding that there's a very high probablility that your powertrain warranty will be voided in the event of a failure. If that doesn't bother you, then go for it.

How hard are the drop shackles to install? Can it be done in a grage by one person with normal tools? What's the most difficult part? Thanks.

The Fold-A-Cover G4 Elite locks and opens in the front and back as well.

I did read someplace that when coasting the injectors cut off completely and the engine is turned by the drive train. This might explain some of what people are experiencing.

Yep

It should - unless it's over the rails or really thick on the sides. I have a drop in liner and there are instructions to trim a small portion of the liner around a bracket on the bed side of the rear stake pocket.

Yes. The Helm manuals are like a maintenance encyclopedia for your truck. Several thousand pages of step-by-step instructions, diagrams, schematics, troubleshooting steps, etc.

They do not cover it very much - maybe a 1/4" on the inside. You can still get your hand in there to help pull yourself up. But you couldn't use it to install a stake or tiedown or anything. There's a tab on the cover side rail that goes in there to secure it to the bed.

I love my Fold-A-Cover G4 Elite. $860 delivered and self-installed. Dealer wanted $1200. No thank you.

I went with the Fold-A-Cover G4 Elite directly from Fold-A-Cover, not GM. GM wants $1160 (+tax) for this exact cover. I bought it direct from Fold-A-Cover online for $860 delivered. There was a no-shipping special before Christmas. I can't really speak for how well it keeps out the rain yet, but I love the functionality of it. It's a quad fold, so more access to the bed (75%) without removing unit. And you can open both ends - great for accessing things that have slid all the way forward in the bed. And it locks on both ends, which completely secures everything in your bed.