GDI Tech

I think your not taking the blow-by all engines have. The cam lobe overlap where the exhaust valve is not fully closed and the intake is beginning to open. This allows reversion pulses to travel backwards up each intake runner and cancels any measurable vacuum/suction when accelerating or at WOT. You can hook up a vacuum gauge and see this in real time. Even though a tremendous CFM of flow is still entering each port, these "spikes" of reversion are what cancel it. That is with an NA engine. Do a Google search and read about this. It does not reach past the TB until well over 8k RPM so that is where the area just in front of the TB opening is a good source of suction during these periods. And yess, the CSS is just as you described, allowing any pressure to vent backwards at those times.

unless you are accelerating or at WOT, when there is no intake manifold vacuum, then you will experience reverse flow of the PCV system. That is where the dual valve can with both checkvalves provides suction at ALL times.

Also to add to Elite's post, nearly ALL modern engines have integrated checkvalves in them now when Elite has used them for ages, and any other catch can makers copied this from RX or Elite. Take and put a length of hose on your valley barb and try and blow through. all LS would flow both ways. So if you have a 2014 or newer LT based engine, they already have one. For the dual valve, it is critical or you will be just sucking open flow from the 2nd outlet and cause a vacuum leak. You do need them. Hurts nothing to have one on the primary outlet even if it is an engine that now comes with them, just guards against flow reversing.

I thought they used a fuel/vapor rated hose, and it should show on the side what it is. Fuel line alone does not have a strong enough sidewall and is prone to collapse under vacuum, but the strongest sidewall hose that is rated for the fuel/oil vapor would be transmission cooler hose or other hydraulic. The thicker, the less the "hiss" can be heard. I like braided -8 as it fits their AN fittings as well and is quiet, but it is expensive. Clean side the -8 (1/2" seems fine). Make sure the checkvalves are flowing away from the can and in the two outer fitting lines. I have never seen the hose they send leak, but as the flow through can be noisy it is a personal preference.

These dual valve system aid in oil return by pulling suction at all times so oil does not remain up above the heads as the stock PCV only pulls suction at idle, light cruise, and deceleration, so this aids in oil return and oil flow when it is not fighting crankcase pressure when accelerating or at WOT like the stock system.

Should have all you need. You will be capping the passenger side of the air bridge like in this video: Should have all you need. You will be capping the passenger side of the air bridge like in this video:

Let me know if you need help with installation!

Having been involved in Mag/Moss claims in the past, and having studying the act for decades, it does cover everything from vacuum cleaner bags and belts to different fluids used in cars and trucks and absolutely a proper catchcan that follows all current emissions requirements is absolutely covered under the act. BUT there are many that would be. ANY that vent to the atmosphere, delete or defeat ANY function of the factory PCV system (more and more "tanks" are being sold that defeat all functions and just run hoses to the tank) and of course if one was not installed correctly. The Elite cans, Genuine RX cans (not the counterfeits), TracyLewisPerformance cans on Jeg's, Colorado Speed, and a few others like Saku Micchi all retain factory closed systems.

There is only one documented warranty being denied for a catchcan, and that was thoroughly covered and the outcome. Turned out the tech misdiagnosed a failed oil pump and the owner ended up replacing the oil pump himself and the engine was fine. He is now still running the can. Out of the decades and tens of thousands of Elite and similar cans in use, there has never been another example. That said, there are many cans/solutions out there that WOULD have a direct impact and cause of failure of the can defeats or deletes any of the factory PCV systems functions resulting in engine wear/damage from defeating how the PCV system removes contaminates from the crankcase, and also open the system to the atmosphere (any vented or breathered systems). Elite and a few others make sure all the systems they sell are emissions compliant (not CARB cert in CA yet though). Having dealt with the Magnuson Moss act, and seeing how quickly a dealer/automaker does a 180 after getting a letter from a Mag/Moss atty and then does cover if hassled is pretty telling. None of this though prevents a uneducated or just plain mean uncaring dealer from messing with you as most are not aware there is a Federal law protecting consumers from this abuse. Most Mag/Moss law firms will send a letter for under $200 and we have yet to see them not accommodate. The problem is most are not willing to stand up and take the proper steps. Hope this helps to clarify. It is absolutely Illegal for a dealer or automaker to void or deny warranty coverage for an aftermarket product or service unless it directly caused the failure in question.

Moroso can only traps app 15-30% of what enters it allowing the rest to pass right through still causing the issues. Very east to test this to prove. Simply install an Elite E2-X inline AFTER the moroso (or any of the small billet cans as the design and manufacturer are the same as app 20 other brands) and it will trap as much to twice as much as the Moroso does first in line showing what gets past. Drive 1000 miles minimum. Then drain and clean both cans of all oil, then place the E2-X first and the moroso second, and almost nothing gets past the E2-X. easy, accurate, and fair test.

Weird...never heard of one not catching anything. Keep us updated, and if you can, post some pictures of all, especially the drain being closed and not clogged (sometimes what is caught is thick and can clog the drain....take a wire and push up through the drain when open to try that).

Excellent video!!!! Fondupot does a great job on these. Also, for the can not catching oil, make SURE the drain is closed as well. Some times it is that simple.

Has to be something routed wrong or check valve stuck closed (blow through each to confirm they open and close properly). If your truck is a 2014 and up, Follow these instructions here:

Depending on which brand can your using, what is caught is far more than oil. First, it should be disposed of just as any drain oil. Most autoparts stores take drain oil. Ineefective cans catch mainly dirty oil and water. Now, if your using one of the ineffective cans, then what is caught is generally mostly oil and some water. If it is one of the truly effective cans like the Elite E2 or E2-X, the genuine RX cans (not the China counterfeits!! they have made that website look like the real one, so beware. rxperformanceproducts.com is NOT the genuine ones! teamRXP.com is) then what is caught is follows on average (this is a cool weather drain sample analysed by one of the major labs that is working on these issues): 70% water and sulfuric acid 23% un burnt fuel (as the GDI engines operate at far higher compression ratios and fuel is introduced at 2,000-3,000 PSI many times the amount of raw fuel is forced past the piston rings and dilutes the oil, etc.) 7% is actually oil and abrasive particulate matter. So never put this back in the crankcase (some cans return it!!! Crazy). Hope that helps!

LOL! There are a few others I should bill for promotion as well.