GDI Tech

Great posts all!! Really like to see so many understanding this!

Correct, but the AN braided line as far as fitment over a push'lock AN fitting works the next size up. Trying to push the -6 over 3/8" barb is very difficult so the -8 fits slightly snug, and then use a AN clamp end to secure them and so on. The Elite cans come with true AN screw on fittings, so then the -6 would be used, but it is then difficult to fit the barbs into as they are a 3/8" barb. I think most get the push-lock style AN fittings so if wanting to use the braided line, then using the next AN size up makes it easier for the installer (as long as you use the AN clamp ends like these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-280208 This makes a nice clean install when used on each end of the braided line at the checkvalves and other fittings. Thanks!!!

For GM applications 3/8" id hose, or -8 AN lines will work with the AN style clamps. Ford takes mainly 1/2" or a -10 braided AN line on most.

Excellent!!! (as usual!)

Post up pictures of your install.....should NEVER be gasoline odor if routed correctly.

These are some of the better videos:

Correct. The mix is (depending on the outside temps as the colder, the more water and unburnt fuel): Water Sulfuric Acid Unburnt fuel Oil Ash/soot/carbon And the rest is smaller amounts of different hydrocarbon based compounds. Found out myself the same way with a solo cup! I use empty water bottles myself.

Proper disposal is with any drain oil station. ALL Elite Engineering systems are emissions compliant and meet EPA guidelines. Only CA with it's own CARB cert required is not yet complete, but will be in the future. As these few systems not only retain a 100% closed emissions compliant system, they also greatly improve the PCV systems function (the dual valve systems improve) and ultimately increase fuel economy and decrease tailpipe emissions by the engine not having to expel the results of trying to burn this mix of "gunk". BUT, many catchcan systems sold today DO violate emissions and ARE not street legal. Any that vent or breather vent fumes are illegal in all 50 States. Any that defeat or delete any of the PCV systems functions as well. So that includes a good percentage of what are sold today.

And this will further increase wear and shorten engine life. The PCV system performs several functions and only one is pollution control related. All else is to remove those damaging compounds. Since they do not have a way for these to not be emptied w/out end user doing so, they and the other automakers are going far past the point of attempting to slow the intake valve coking but at the sacrifice of engine life. Can't wait until the patent for the "self emptying" system is granted and the automakers will have it to work with. The provisional has been granted so look in the next 6 months or so (I hope) and it should be announced to the public. It goes 100k miles plus w/no maintenance required and stops 95% plus of the mix that causes all of this. HndaHawk, watch for others doing what GM is as well. Crazy!

And all the average person needs to see is that. You do NOT want that running through your motor!

Correct. The "mix" you trap should consist mainly of the following, and when let sit for several days will separate into different layers of each. Water in cold climates is #1. Unburnt fuel #2. sulfuric acid #3, and oil #4. Of course there is ash/soot/carbon also mixed in with it but that does not separate like the rest. Oil will always be the top layer. Just seeing this and realizing before you took steps to actually trap it, this was being ingested into your combustion chamber. Even if it did not have a valve coking issue, just think how much that contaminated the A/F mixture.

Cold temps will always create more water and more unburnt fuel. The fuel comes from cold start enrichment and IAT temps provide the PCM data for fuel tables, so the colder, the richer (fuel economy always goes down in winter/cold temps). The water is due to the condensation in the crankcase and the water released during the intense heat and pressure of the combustion process. That is a nasty mix of compounds demonstrating just what would be left to mix and stay in the oil as well as what is ingested in the combustion process when it is drawn in.

Thats why you see so little water. Most all of what you are catching is unburnt fuel, sulfuric acid, oil, and soot/carbon/ash particles.

Elite has many dealers around the World...JDP is one, and ton's of others. Smell it. It should have a very acid/chemical smell due to the different compounds along with the oil. I take it your in a warmer climate? Below 45*F the amount of water and unburnt fuel increase dramatically.

Not the Elite version with the dual valve can as it converts the PCV to always evacuate, not just at idle, cruise, and deceleration like the stock PCV system does. But for the stock GM cleanside unit that is correct.

The check valves go on the 2 outlets (outer fittings) and that will control flow. There is no way for any of the gunk to flow back into the crankcase due to the design, but great question. The AN fittings work with either standard hose or the braided lines. Use a bit of grease for both to make inserting and tightening easier. The E2 is a dual outlet larger version of the E1 and is great for port injection engines that can tolerate some ingestion. The E2-X is the best most effective system on the market as far as stopping 95% plus of this and is what I would only run on the GDI as you need to stop all of this. And the dual valve is also giving the best evacuation so that also is my choice. The E2-X "Ultra" is fro big boost, big power builds and anyone living where the winters hard freeze it is double the capacity of the E2-X. Cleanside I suggest for any of the Elite cans...it is addressing the only other point of ingestion. Hope that helps!!

Excellent description!!! Yes, the AN fittings alone and the drain valve are over $100 if purchased separately, checkvalves are $16 each I think so when all is added up it is the best bargain as most want the professional look of it all VS bare fittings and clamps. Then you look at the E2-X as their most effective release to date the decision is easy.

Correct. All Elite cans have designated inlets and outlets. Hurt nothing, just not as effective.

Correct. Ask them for the additional fittings and checkvalve (may need more hose as well). VERY important in the cold months! These work so well they are trapping and removing a bunch that most do not. Try not to let it get over 1/3 full as that is where testing shows some begins to pull through and still be ingested. Correct. The stock PCV system only evacuates at idle, cruise, and deceleration. The dual valve adds a secondary evacuation suction surce that will take over and continue evacuation during acceleration and WOT operation for the best results and keeps the oil cleaner and engine wear at a minimum. You can convert any of their single valves to dual valves. fondupot has a great video on this. And to clarify, the fittings that come with the E2-X systems work with standard hose OR AN braided hose. These are like $26-$28 each to buy separate from Summit, etc. So to clarify, the single valve in comparison to most any other can is still far more effective, the dual valve is the best complete evacuation improving on the OEM PCV systems functions, and the "Ultra", is for big power builds, forced induction, or those in cold climates that are going to see quick fill rates. It doubles the capacity and is the ultimate system. As I don't work for them, I can only make suggestions so any that got a single valve and want to convert, watch fondupots video on it and those looking to get one just insist what you want. Cheers!!

Great suggestion. Let me pass it on to them.

Always look at the most effective as well as the features each has. Again why the E2-X systems are so attractive. Come apart if you should choose to clean (usually not needed) and the nice 1/4 turn drain valve system is easy as can be:

Yes, this mixture will turn to slush when well below freezing, but after running up to operating temp it quickly thaws and can then be drained (with engine off). That is why a "cathcan" cannot be a cheap glued together assy. Good questions!!!

The cooler the better for the condensing function, but in -20* F that can also freeze the contents to a slush when not running.

What you DON'T want ingested into the engine!!!

Correct. Most cans (99%) only trap a small portion of the contaminants as they are very ineffective in design. Almost none take into consideration all the principals of flow dynamics, etc. so even those with coalescing media inside, or baffles, rarely take into consideration what will allow the condensed liquids to still be carried back out with the exiting flow. If the media is within 3" of an outlet, most will be pulled back out a cans outlet as the Bernoulli Principal and the Venturi Effect pick up liquid and carry it with the flow. Plenty other factors come into play, and nearly all are designed purely from assumptions the can designer thought works. Look at a Moroso can for example, (and many others with the same design and construction just labeled different) and you will see two chambers filled with coalescing media. The inlet and outlet are not designated, so no direction of flow specific. The side you use as the inlet will trap these effectively, but the side used as an outlet will saturate as well and as it is tight against the outlet (not the 3" minimum needed) it is the same as taking a wet wash cloth and placing it to your mouth and sucking. You suck water right from it. Now imagine the much stronger and greater flow out of the can...it pulls most of the oil and other compounds right back out. Then you have to look at internal volume. Anything less than close to a quart cannot allow the velocity, or speed of the flow through to slow to the point of the condensed/separated droplets to fall from suspension. Tons more go into a proper effective design, but will save that.