Ravenkeeper

Correct. I used the smallest phillips jewelers screwdriver that I have to run a "pilot hole," made it easier to push the diode lead down into the slot. A few guys have trimmed off some of the leads, so the diodes sit closer to the connectors.

$2.97 at Lowe's. Snug fit, even after you remove/trash the clamp. Did this just in time for any snow we may get this winter.

Forget where I saw someone with a regular cab, put in a center console.

Now, we all know. ? I just gotta shell out the 2300$ in registration and I'm hitting you up! $2300, YIKES!! Did mine last month, $800+/- for CA.

Frankie and I have been sending PMs back/forth. Unfortunately, I don't have the funds at this time, which is why I have not been bumping my ad.

Think that I've seen these on Amazon.

Can't wait to see the detailed write-up and night photos.

Pull your BCM out, send it off to be reprogrammed, sent back to you, and reinstall.

That's the way that I did mine in my '15 LTZ. Loved it, took some work, but was "easy." They used a 6' cord to the glovebox USB, but I ran mine to the center console box, 10' cord.

I had one similar to that, but it fell apart after 2 years. Besides, I like having the second cupholder for whoever is in the truck with me, or for my fries in one and drink in the other. @Vulcan762 , I may try your idea, been looking for over a year for one in my '18 truck. Ran with @18Midnight's idea for a while, but I have started bringing CDs with me, from time to time. For those with a cubbie/pocket in the dash, like @Vulcan762's, I had my phone mounted there, in my '15. Sold that one, shortly after my head-on collision, year ago. Truck Mod - Phone mount.docx

There's another thread in this forum about their radios staying on after they turn the truck off, pull the key, and open the driver's door. I've had it happen, and I've had the opposite happen, didn't remote start my truck, and shortly after I opened the driver's door, the radio was playing. It even did it after remote starting the truck. But as for the faint sound coming through, that's a first. I know a guy, back home, if he turned on his CB amplifier(s), his transmissions would bleed through TV, home stereos, and even the sound system in the church 2.5 blocks away (their wireless mics were operating about the same frequency that he was using). Where is this place?

I took my smallest phillips jewelers screwdriver and pushed it in to make way for the diode leads, so that it was "easier" to push them in the needed length for good contact.

Your reverse/cargo jumper is correct for cargo lights on while in reverse. Maybe push your leads in a little further? What diodes did you use, 1N4004? HOWEVER, your fogs on with HIGHs appears to be completely incorrect. Your striped end it in BRN24, mine is in BRN18 (next row up), and I can't tell where the other end is pinned, but mine is in BRN10. The attached picture if from my '15 LTZ. My '18 is similar, other than the third diode in the GREY block, because my '18 comes setup to have the puddle lights on when any of the doors are open.

Still available.

@pgamboa?

Saw that a couple posts later.

Where's this happening at?

Like that ^^^^^^^^^^^

Had that same thing in my '15. Kept my military ID in it, since I was/am constantly going on/off of Edwards AFB, where I work. Since my '18 doesn't have that slot, my ID stays on my visor with my garage remote, until I get my homelink programmed for the garage door opener, after I get some space cleared out of the garage to do it. I've seen some of the guys find a way to adapt a CD drive phone holder to go there, and I and a few others mounted a phone holder where @15BlueSilverado has his change laying. If/When I get around to getting/installing an airhorn, I'm looking at putting the switch up on the A-Pillar or in the upper console, along with my sport bar lights (when/if I get a sport bar, forward curve, rear curve, and a pod to each side, maybe).

Got to let my son heal up, had surgery a couple weeks ago, gets his stitches out in about a week. May be September before we get to go.