67ChevyRedneck

Yes, the pic I attached is the body side harness of my truck. I guess because my DS seat had power, the PS was wired for it? That really sucks. You're going to have to get + from somewhere and add a ground. I added the + and - from the new seat motor wiring harness to my seat side harness (I had to drill out the yellow seat connector holes in those slots and push the wires in). In terms of the SRS stuff. Look at your old seats and new seats. I'm going to bet your old seats are like mine where there is a small seat position sensor located on the seat rail towards the front. On the power heated seats it's part of the black box that powers/controls the heaters. You either need to swap all of your SRS wiring and sensors over to the new seats (putting the sensors on the brackets in the SAME spot as they were on your old seats) or get a new BCM and Wiring because I don't believe the SRS wiring matches up (again because the SRS stuff is integrated into the heated seat box). Without doing either of those things I don't think you'll ever get them to work. From what I've read, when the SRS light is on, NONE of the airbags will deploy. Also, to be clear, when I used my old seat harness, I was also retaining my yellow seat plug so the wire connections matched up to my body side plug, I just drilled and added the + and - as I noted above. You can get to the seat bottom stuff pretty easy, but unfortunately you will have to remove the upper seat cushion to get to the wires in the seat back. It's not terrible, everything un-snaps/unclips.

Oh wow. You might not have any power hook ups? I think you have a typo, did you mean to say the airbag light is on? Do regular cabs have side curtain airbags? See my pic below, if you have the spades to #11 and 12 you *should* at least have power to the seats. Look at your seat plug and see if these are there if you pull the plug back a bit, they're obvious, one is a fat red wire and the other is a fat black wire. These provide power for the seat controls (base, seatback, and lumbar): I just don't know. Reading other's posts in this thread you might need the BCM and wiring from the denali??? I was able to get mine to work by deleting the heater seat stuff, reusing all my OEM SRS sensors, wires, and equipment from my old seat onto my new and plugging the power wires into ports #11 and #12 on my "old" seat harness connector. Looks like GM went from making everything plug and play to actually having different harnesses and BCM's!

Turns out my airbag light was a little more serious than I had thought. Apparently GM didn't keep things simple, as has been discussed in this thread. The 2016 seat frame I bought had a power base, seatback, lumbar, AND heated seats (I only got the frame, so no cushions or heated seats, but the plugs and control module were there.) ​So I plugged it in, all the power stuff worked, cool, right? But my SRS light was on. Crap. Maybe it just tripped the code and needed to be cleared? ​I finally had time to really put the two seat frames side by side and compare. On my manual seat, the SRS system (airbag, seatbelt, weight sensor, and seat position sensor) were all obviously a stand a lone system with the seat position sensor being located on the inner seat track at the front. ​I couldn't quite figure out what was going on with my power seat, so I labeled all the clips and unwrapped ALL the wires. ​What I discovered: ​The power seat system is a stand alone system. It's its own harness (power base, seatback, and lumbar) and all the power stuff needs is a big + power wire to #12 on the seat connecter and a fat - wire to #11 on the seat connector. That's it. And luckily, the body side of my seat connecter was set up for this, more on that in a sec. There are NO other wires associated with the power seat or lumbar motors that go to the seat harness connector other than the fat + and fat - wires. That's it. ​On seats with heaters, (and possibly cooled, not sure as this wasn't a cooled seat), the SRS system is INTEGRATED with the seat heater system. The biggest thing being the seat positon sensor was part of the heater control box. That's why my SRS light was on, that and the wiring didn't match up to my seat's body side wiring. So apparently, this is the issues others have been talking about with heated seats having a different seat connector and body control module, etc. ​So, what did I do? ​I swapped my entire SRS system over to the new power seat frame. The entire wiring harness for the airbag, seatbelts, position sensor (the correct bracket in the correct location was even on the new seat, just unused, VERY important for the sensor to go to the same location) and I swapped the weight sensor system too, even though they did appear to be exactly the same. ​So now all my SRS stuff worked again, all warning lights off and gone, but now the power seat had no power. No biggie. The body side harness did have power and ground to terminals 11 and 12, I just had to drill them out in the seat connector and push them in. So now I have a power seat that works and an SRS system that works in a truck that originally only had a PS manual seat. This is a pic of the integrated SRS system/heated seat system. The black box you see controls the seat heaters and is also the seat position sensor for the SRS system, which is why it wouldn't work in my truck, because my truck doesn't have a BCM that works with this stuff, I can't use it, so NONE of this is going back into my truck. It now works properly with the old harness and a + and - power wire!

Thanks! This will be my 3rd seat covering, but first katzkin. I did a couple of the headrests already, vey nice stuff. I got the covers off! I got one side clip off, then the bottoms and it comes off. Whew!

That's the video I was referring too... looking at it again, I was pushing on the alignment tabs next to the clips last night... that's why it wasn't releasing... Thanks, I hope I can get them removed now... I wish they would have slowed down the video and explained stuff a little better. There's a GREAT step by step video for the 07-13's, but not for the 14+ O_J_Simpson (lol) - I hope not man, I already pegged my silver PS dash bezel with the seat track, I don't want to replace anymore parts... I have to find one of those now too, found plenty of DS ones.

I have been scouring the web for videos, pics, anything that shows how to remove the plastic seat-back off of a 2014+ bucket seat and I can't find jack squat. Not even a pic of the cover. I just need to see how the clips work. I found one video online but it flys past that part with music playing... I know quite a few of our DIY'ers here have done a Katzkin interior and this is holding me up from tearing my seats down, as I do not want to break them, they need to go back on! Thanks for the help

I received my power seat frame on Saturday and pulled the PS seat last night and set the frame in and plugged it in. All power motors worked including the lumbar. Very happy. I haven't taken the PS seat apart yet, so I don't have the airbag connected and I got an email from OnStar to bring my truck in for service immediately! My power seat frame is front/back, seatback, and lumbar. Current seat in my 2LT was all manual.

I may be in luck. The seller is including the attaching harness and it appears that there is a large red power and a large red negative wire going into the harness on either end. I popped the cover on my seat and unlatched the harness, and sure enough, on the body side in the spaces where those wires appear to be I have a large and medium sized spade, but when I look at the seat side of the harness, my seat has blank spaces (no pins) where the large and medium sized spades are, so hopefully, those are the power and ground wires and it will be plug and play. Fingers crossed, I'll find out next week.

So, I've done a lot of reading, and some googling, and haven't found an answer quite yet. I have a 2015 DC 2LT Z71 with cloth seats. I just ordered a katzkin interior kit (I've done a few interiors before, should be cake for me), but I have a question on seat power. My DS has full power controls (no heat or air). The PS is full manual and my wife has made a few comments on the lack of lumbar support (I mean really, on a 2LT??? My 00 Z71 LS had PS lumbar). So I ordered a stripped down frame from a 2016 with power seat motors and lumbar support (its the full frame with no cushions/cover). I can swap everything over when I do the leather covers. Does anyone know if this will be plug and play for power, or do I simply need to supply power/ground for the motors to work. This thread is packed full of confusing info on heaters, a/c, and BCM stuff. Seat frame and leathers should be here by next week. I paid the 2015 off a couple months ago and its upgrade time!

Proof that it is a frame resonance issue that can't be pinpointed? http://www.caranddriver.com/news/2019-chevrolet-silverado-1500-spy-photos-news?src=ha_m&mag=cdb&dom=fb I find it hard to believe GM would be doing an "all new" frame after only a 5-6 year run.

**** Bradshaw. They're the assholes that told me my vibration was normal operation AFTER they told me they didn't feel a vibration.

I installed a set of Iboards this weekend (running boards) so I finally looked "under" the truck. Holy crap are those some short cab mounts! They seem to be made of an extremely hard material as well.

I have the double cab, there weren't any "welded nuts" for my application, I needed to use all the body clips. Easy install. I bought the 4" and tucked them in as far as they would go checking the distance with the frame to make sure they were straight. There are a couple of install videos on youtube, I think one was on a 2015 Sierra. Wasn't a great help, but gave me an idea of what body plugs needed to be removed and where the clips went (the instructions are complete crap.) I just installed mine yesterday. Love em. First pair of running boards that I saw where I said "hey, I actually like those." The look even better with the factory splash guards. I had them on in about an hour, but probably spent another half hour playing with the mounts and board making sure everything was even. This site wont let me copy pics from 67-72chevytrucks.com for some reason, so here's the thread I did with pics: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=697186 Mine were $161 free shipping on ebay, but mine were the 4" double cab, the longer cabs and wider boards are more $. I think the 4" provides plenty of step to get into the truck, if you want something you can stand on for some reason you may want to go with the 5". http://www.ebay.com/itm/161723167718?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I'd like to note the hardware "sticks out" being a shiney silver and the powder coat job on the brackets sucks. I plan on pulling them off this spring and respray all the brackets and hardware a flat black.

WTF is up with some new vehicles? I had to fly to Colorado for 3 days for work last week with my boss. Boss usually gets a Tahoe but all they had was a Sequoia. Not sure if it was a 2016 or left over 2015, but it only had 17 miles on it! Get this. That son of a bitch had the EXACT same floor buzzing vibration my silverado has every time it shifts. This one is actually a little worse than my truck in that you could feel it almost the entire time on the interstate. W... T... F... Again, not a wobble, or shake vibration, but a buzzing vibration you only feel on the floorboard (not in the seat, etc) just like my truck. I was actually shocked. I know my friend had a 2008 Tundra (he traded it in a couple years ago for an F-250) but I rode in that a lot and don't ever recall any vibrations. I've also taken my truck on the interstate several times since my last post. I think I have almost 6K on it now... zero interstate vibrations still. Just the "floor board buzzing" during shifts and uphills. I guess I'm "lucky?"

Oops, double post...

It seems to be like the GM issue then... hit or miss. My boss has a fully loaded 2015 King Ranch 4x4 edition truck. He uses it to travel for work, so it already has like 12K miles on it. I rode in it recently on a +/-500 mile round trip to TN and back, was one of the best riding trucks I've been in. Edit: To comment to post above, this truck was the V6 ecoboost.

Got a bathroom to remodel first! I'm actually off the rest of the week after today to get the floor retiled, walls finished, and new shower door... going to be busy!

Seriously thought about it, there's plenty in the local LKQs. If it works I can buy new ones. I have to get under the truck to see what's there now to compare, but yes, seriously thought about that. They can't be that different, aside from the stiffer materials the new ones are supposedly made from now (from what I've read in this thread). Rubber can be trimmed or they can be shimmed with larger washers, so I don't see why it wouldn't technically work... Like I said though, my issue is nowhere near like everyone elses. If all else fails, I can actually "live with" what's wrong with mine. Probably never buy another brand new truck again (from anyone, this was my first and probably last).

Well, damn it. My 67 C10 has regular old rubber hockey puck mounts. I wonder if I can cut or shim a set to fit on my truck.

I'm waiting for Prothane or another aftermarket company to come up with a new mount. What I don't get is why they don't have one for the 14-15's yet... seems like they would already have one??? Maybe they're having a hard time developing one. I'll admit, I keep trying to remember to do it, but I have yet to actually look under my truck yet at the mounts, etc. I've been thinking the frame has been too stiff and resonance since the beginning. They kept pushing the envelope on frame stiffness (watch youtube videos of Silverado VS whatever frame stiffness) and the Silverado box barely moves on that tilted hill thing and all the other trucks twist. It's also evident with the firmer ride. My 00 Z71 on crappy roads (most of what's around here) rode better (softer) than my new truck. http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/?gclid=CJOrloSC_8kCFdgWgQod_PYGiQ I love this damn truck. Whether GM fixes it, or the aftermarket does, the damn thing is going to be fixed! Stuff gets lost in the mix, but I do not have the crazy highway vibes everyone else does... mine are felt during shifts and going up hills in certain gears (like the engine lugs a bit). I've also noticed my wifes 2011 Mustang does the same thing, it tries to keep a higher gear too long up a hill and the floor will have a slight buzzing vibration until you get over the hill or the car actually downshifts. Also noticed it recently in my inlaws 2013 Rav-4. I guess this truck made me more concerned with vibrations and I notice them in everything I ride/drive now. I don't think all these issues are a "GM thing", because some of these issues seem to be across the board, but I do find those having the highway problems inexcusable, I've seen the youtube videos.

I was about to ask the exact same question. I'm almost willing to bet its the material. abominable z71, did you happen to take a pic of the mounts side by side, or compare the materials at all? If GM won't do it, any aftermarket supplier that comes up with a better stock height body mount kit will make a fortune. Old vehicles vibrate. They just do. 50's, 60's, 70s, but the vibrations were kept down with rubber motor, trans, cab/body and suspension mounts. Modern suppliers offer the same parts in polyurethane or some other much stiffer material, but that usually ends up making the old car/truck vibrate or feel the road more.

So you had the gas pedal vibration too and it went away? My truck is a Z71... a lift would look pretty cool....

Has anyone tried mounting a GoPro under their truck to find just what exactly is vibrating? This guy did it on his 65 mustang to find a suspension noise: I had one, but I broke the damn thing on the Hot Rod Power tour back in June, I had the back open, the mount came off the windshield, and I knocked over my Dr. Pepper trying to grab it and the inside got coated with it.

I wouldn't doubt it if my truck "passed" their Pico test as well. I was told the same thing, "it's the truck trying to be efficient" but it does it in V8 mode too under power. Pretty sure its not trying to sip gas going up a hill doing 60 mph. If anyone is curious to what it feels like, put your cell phone on vibrate and put it right next to your feet on the floor, then imagine driving it like that. I wrote a nasty letter to the service manager a few weeks ago and finally got a response last Friday... My other issue is I don't have time to **** around bringing a truck in to the dealer a couple times a week. They want an appointment to see what's wrong with it first, then after that you make another to "fix it."... pain in the ass. They also keep telling me "their out of loaners" because they know they're not going to do dick to my truck.

Same here. I owned a 2000 Z71 for 11 years, bought it at 4 years old. NEVER a vibration. EVER. Not at 2 mph, not at 80 mph, nothing. Ever. Not even at idle, I had friends that would comment at lights "did you truck shut off?" I honestly had to look down a few times myself over the years to see if the tach was at 500rpm or if the truck was actually off. Absolutely LOVED that truck (my sig pic). It never once saw a dealer or shop in 170+K miles. I traded it for the pile of shit I own now. I'm pretty sure my truck is slowing getting worse. Has around 3,500 miles on it now. Same vibration though, only feel it in gas pedal and floor and usually just through shifts and up hills. Not the same as what most people describe. V8 or V4 mode has zero affect on mine.