67ChevyRedneck

My biggest issue was figuring out how to get the seats out without breaking anything. Once I did one the other wasn't too bad, but figuring out how to get the first seat out without breaking clips is tricky. You also have to go slow, it seemed like every single weather pack connector was different and had a different way that it unclipped. Yes, the center jump seat is an absolute pain in the A$$. I probably spent almost the same amount of time on the jump seat as I did on the actual cover install on the other seats combined. I would have never been able to do it without the videos I found on youtube.

Now, that was my experience with an LTZ heated and cooled seat. I DO NOT know if a power seat WITHOUT that extra stuff will be plug and play either. The tell tale sign will be the control box under the seat. If there is one, it won't work without gutting it like I did because those seats use a different seat airbag sensor in a different location that won't talk to your BCM and will keep your ABS light on, and if the ABS light is on NO airbags will work. Plus it's annoying. Unfortunately you can't just add the BCM from the other truck either, because the wire harness to the seat under the carpet is pinned differently as well. Basically if you plug the new seat in and the airbag light is on, you have to rewire it like I did. ALSO. UNHOOK THE BATTERY BEFORE you unplug the seat. If you unplug the seat and start the truck you risk having the airbag light stay on and the dealer may have to clear it!

When you get the Katzkin covers in, they have an extra 1/4" padded foam on the seat part. As far as I know, that's the only difference and the stock leather seats use the same base foams as the cloth. I got lucky, I found a junkyard guy selling stripped down seat frames on ebay. The motors and crap are all integrated into seat frame, so you need a power frame. Unfortunately for me, my seat frame was from an LTZ that had the heated and cooled seats as well, and they use a different control box, which also uses a different location for the airbag sensor. The GOOD news is that you can unfurl the tape around all the wires, separate out the motor wires, and swap your entire "base" seat harness over. THEN you have to drill out 2 of the pin holes and repin your connector. See my post here for seat base: Its a lot to explain, but I go into more detail here: i keep going on until the next page as well. Basically, when you gut the harness you're left with a big fat black - wire and a big fat red + wire. You actually need to drill out your seat harness connector in the two spots I show in that thread to plug the wires in. Once you get the hole in, you need to carefully make them square with a small file. Then you can push the clip in and it should hold. Make sure it's "square" and in the right direction so it doesn't get jammed when you try to plug it in. I know that all sounds awful, but it's not, it was a good two weekend swap. Without figuring out the PS seat, it would have only been +/- 1 weekend. It was well worth the extra money, now I don't have to listen to my wife complain how my 44K( sticker) truck didn't have lumbar on her side. I also looked back and found I paid $375 shipped for that seat frame. Expensive, yes, but complete seats were a lot more expensive. As a side not, the katzkin have been in the truck about 7 months and literally still look brand new.

Yes, the pic I attached is the body side harness of my truck. I guess because my DS seat had power, the PS was wired for it? That really sucks. You're going to have to get + from somewhere and add a ground. I added the + and - from the new seat motor wiring harness to my seat side harness (I had to drill out the yellow seat connector holes in those slots and push the wires in). In terms of the SRS stuff. Look at your old seats and new seats. I'm going to bet your old seats are like mine where there is a small seat position sensor located on the seat rail towards the front. On the power heated seats it's part of the black box that powers/controls the heaters. You either need to swap all of your SRS wiring and sensors over to the new seats (putting the sensors on the brackets in the SAME spot as they were on your old seats) or get a new BCM and Wiring because I don't believe the SRS wiring matches up (again because the SRS stuff is integrated into the heated seat box). Without doing either of those things I don't think you'll ever get them to work. From what I've read, when the SRS light is on, NONE of the airbags will deploy. Also, to be clear, when I used my old seat harness, I was also retaining my yellow seat plug so the wire connections matched up to my body side plug, I just drilled and added the + and - as I noted above. You can get to the seat bottom stuff pretty easy, but unfortunately you will have to remove the upper seat cushion to get to the wires in the seat back. It's not terrible, everything un-snaps/unclips.

Oh wow. You might not have any power hook ups? I think you have a typo, did you mean to say the airbag light is on? Do regular cabs have side curtain airbags? See my pic below, if you have the spades to #11 and 12 you *should* at least have power to the seats. Look at your seat plug and see if these are there if you pull the plug back a bit, they're obvious, one is a fat red wire and the other is a fat black wire. These provide power for the seat controls (base, seatback, and lumbar): I just don't know. Reading other's posts in this thread you might need the BCM and wiring from the denali??? I was able to get mine to work by deleting the heater seat stuff, reusing all my OEM SRS sensors, wires, and equipment from my old seat onto my new and plugging the power wires into ports #11 and #12 on my "old" seat harness connector. Looks like GM went from making everything plug and play to actually having different harnesses and BCM's!

Turns out my airbag light was a little more serious than I had thought. Apparently GM didn't keep things simple, as has been discussed in this thread. The 2016 seat frame I bought had a power base, seatback, lumbar, AND heated seats (I only got the frame, so no cushions or heated seats, but the plugs and control module were there.) ​So I plugged it in, all the power stuff worked, cool, right? But my SRS light was on. Crap. Maybe it just tripped the code and needed to be cleared? ​I finally had time to really put the two seat frames side by side and compare. On my manual seat, the SRS system (airbag, seatbelt, weight sensor, and seat position sensor) were all obviously a stand a lone system with the seat position sensor being located on the inner seat track at the front. ​I couldn't quite figure out what was going on with my power seat, so I labeled all the clips and unwrapped ALL the wires. ​What I discovered: ​The power seat system is a stand alone system. It's its own harness (power base, seatback, and lumbar) and all the power stuff needs is a big + power wire to #12 on the seat connecter and a fat - wire to #11 on the seat connector. That's it. And luckily, the body side of my seat connecter was set up for this, more on that in a sec. There are NO other wires associated with the power seat or lumbar motors that go to the seat harness connector other than the fat + and fat - wires. That's it. ​On seats with heaters, (and possibly cooled, not sure as this wasn't a cooled seat), the SRS system is INTEGRATED with the seat heater system. The biggest thing being the seat positon sensor was part of the heater control box. That's why my SRS light was on, that and the wiring didn't match up to my seat's body side wiring. So apparently, this is the issues others have been talking about with heated seats having a different seat connector and body control module, etc. ​So, what did I do? ​I swapped my entire SRS system over to the new power seat frame. The entire wiring harness for the airbag, seatbelts, position sensor (the correct bracket in the correct location was even on the new seat, just unused, VERY important for the sensor to go to the same location) and I swapped the weight sensor system too, even though they did appear to be exactly the same. ​So now all my SRS stuff worked again, all warning lights off and gone, but now the power seat had no power. No biggie. The body side harness did have power and ground to terminals 11 and 12, I just had to drill them out in the seat connector and push them in. So now I have a power seat that works and an SRS system that works in a truck that originally only had a PS manual seat. This is a pic of the integrated SRS system/heated seat system. The black box you see controls the seat heaters and is also the seat position sensor for the SRS system, which is why it wouldn't work in my truck, because my truck doesn't have a BCM that works with this stuff, I can't use it, so NONE of this is going back into my truck. It now works properly with the old harness and a + and - power wire!

Like others said, $550-580-ish on ebay from a ton of sellers. ​Katzkin does sell "upgraded" kits that are a lot more expensive. You can get two tone leather colors, different colored stitching, there's a "Rawlings" kit I saw somewhere... but the basic black with white stitching is only $550ish.

I'm also converting my PS from power nothing to full power (base/track, seatback, and lumbar) so this is all I got done. I had to at least get this stuff back in to drive it.

I'd contact one of the sellers, I'm sure they do. ​I got *some* of mine done. I think they came out just as good as a shop would have done. ​The middle seat was an absolute pain in the ass. I did the DS seat in about an hour and a half. The middle seat took 5 hours.

Definitely didn't know that!!! I would have gone with the 16+ ​I got my seat order last week.

Thanks! This will be my 3rd seat covering, but first katzkin. I did a couple of the headrests already, vey nice stuff. I got the covers off! I got one side clip off, then the bottoms and it comes off. Whew!

That's the video I was referring too... looking at it again, I was pushing on the alignment tabs next to the clips last night... that's why it wasn't releasing... Thanks, I hope I can get them removed now... I wish they would have slowed down the video and explained stuff a little better. There's a GREAT step by step video for the 07-13's, but not for the 14+ O_J_Simpson (lol) - I hope not man, I already pegged my silver PS dash bezel with the seat track, I don't want to replace anymore parts... I have to find one of those now too, found plenty of DS ones.

I have been scouring the web for videos, pics, anything that shows how to remove the plastic seat-back off of a 2014+ bucket seat and I can't find jack squat. Not even a pic of the cover. I just need to see how the clips work. I found one video online but it flys past that part with music playing... I know quite a few of our DIY'ers here have done a Katzkin interior and this is holding me up from tearing my seats down, as I do not want to break them, they need to go back on! Thanks for the help

I see a lot of people have done this themselves. I have purchased a set and am tearing my seats down, but I'm stuck. Can anyone tell me how the heck to get the rear cover off the front bucket seats without breaking it? I can only find one video and it blows right passed removing the rear cover. I spent way too much time just trying to find a video or even a pic of the clips so I can see what they look like. I've tried gently pulling on it and that didn't work so I stopped there.

I received my power seat frame on Saturday and pulled the PS seat last night and set the frame in and plugged it in. All power motors worked including the lumbar. Very happy. I haven't taken the PS seat apart yet, so I don't have the airbag connected and I got an email from OnStar to bring my truck in for service immediately! My power seat frame is front/back, seatback, and lumbar. Current seat in my 2LT was all manual.

I may be in luck. The seller is including the attaching harness and it appears that there is a large red power and a large red negative wire going into the harness on either end. I popped the cover on my seat and unlatched the harness, and sure enough, on the body side in the spaces where those wires appear to be I have a large and medium sized spade, but when I look at the seat side of the harness, my seat has blank spaces (no pins) where the large and medium sized spades are, so hopefully, those are the power and ground wires and it will be plug and play. Fingers crossed, I'll find out next week.

So, I've done a lot of reading, and some googling, and haven't found an answer quite yet. I have a 2015 DC 2LT Z71 with cloth seats. I just ordered a katzkin interior kit (I've done a few interiors before, should be cake for me), but I have a question on seat power. My DS has full power controls (no heat or air). The PS is full manual and my wife has made a few comments on the lack of lumbar support (I mean really, on a 2LT??? My 00 Z71 LS had PS lumbar). So I ordered a stripped down frame from a 2016 with power seat motors and lumbar support (its the full frame with no cushions/cover). I can swap everything over when I do the leather covers. Does anyone know if this will be plug and play for power, or do I simply need to supply power/ground for the motors to work. This thread is packed full of confusing info on heaters, a/c, and BCM stuff. Seat frame and leathers should be here by next week. I paid the 2015 off a couple months ago and its upgrade time!

Proof that it is a frame resonance issue that can't be pinpointed? http://www.caranddriver.com/news/2019-chevrolet-silverado-1500-spy-photos-news?src=ha_m&mag=cdb&dom=fb I find it hard to believe GM would be doing an "all new" frame after only a 5-6 year run.

**** Bradshaw. They're the assholes that told me my vibration was normal operation AFTER they told me they didn't feel a vibration.

I installed a set of Iboards this weekend (running boards) so I finally looked "under" the truck. Holy crap are those some short cab mounts! They seem to be made of an extremely hard material as well.

I have the double cab, there weren't any "welded nuts" for my application, I needed to use all the body clips. Easy install. I bought the 4" and tucked them in as far as they would go checking the distance with the frame to make sure they were straight. There are a couple of install videos on youtube, I think one was on a 2015 Sierra. Wasn't a great help, but gave me an idea of what body plugs needed to be removed and where the clips went (the instructions are complete crap.) I just installed mine yesterday. Love em. First pair of running boards that I saw where I said "hey, I actually like those." The look even better with the factory splash guards. I had them on in about an hour, but probably spent another half hour playing with the mounts and board making sure everything was even. This site wont let me copy pics from 67-72chevytrucks.com for some reason, so here's the thread I did with pics: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=697186 Mine were $161 free shipping on ebay, but mine were the 4" double cab, the longer cabs and wider boards are more $. I think the 4" provides plenty of step to get into the truck, if you want something you can stand on for some reason you may want to go with the 5". http://www.ebay.com/itm/161723167718?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I'd like to note the hardware "sticks out" being a shiney silver and the powder coat job on the brackets sucks. I plan on pulling them off this spring and respray all the brackets and hardware a flat black.

WTF is up with some new vehicles? I had to fly to Colorado for 3 days for work last week with my boss. Boss usually gets a Tahoe but all they had was a Sequoia. Not sure if it was a 2016 or left over 2015, but it only had 17 miles on it! Get this. That son of a bitch had the EXACT same floor buzzing vibration my silverado has every time it shifts. This one is actually a little worse than my truck in that you could feel it almost the entire time on the interstate. W... T... F... Again, not a wobble, or shake vibration, but a buzzing vibration you only feel on the floorboard (not in the seat, etc) just like my truck. I was actually shocked. I know my friend had a 2008 Tundra (he traded it in a couple years ago for an F-250) but I rode in that a lot and don't ever recall any vibrations. I've also taken my truck on the interstate several times since my last post. I think I have almost 6K on it now... zero interstate vibrations still. Just the "floor board buzzing" during shifts and uphills. I guess I'm "lucky?"

Oops, double post...

It seems to be like the GM issue then... hit or miss. My boss has a fully loaded 2015 King Ranch 4x4 edition truck. He uses it to travel for work, so it already has like 12K miles on it. I rode in it recently on a +/-500 mile round trip to TN and back, was one of the best riding trucks I've been in. Edit: To comment to post above, this truck was the V6 ecoboost.

Got a bathroom to remodel first! I'm actually off the rest of the week after today to get the floor retiled, walls finished, and new shower door... going to be busy!