FREEZE451

Well, I'm a very impatient person. I had ordered Dynamic's but found a store locally has a set of GTR's so I grabbed them. Putting them in this afternoon.

I have Morimoto from Retrofit and... HID's went out again. Sad to say that I really enjoyed the RetroFit HID's(https://www.theretrofitsource.com/amp-morimoto-xb35.html), but after going through 5 bulbs, 3 igniters and 2 ballasts, it's a bit much to tackle this as a semi annual routine. I mean it's not rocket science putting this together, so I'm not sure what the issue is. Going to strip this set out, go back to halogen until I find something. Just wanted to add my information in here, will for sure read some of these 129 pages and see what I can pull.

Cleaned it up

Put on a Putco Blade as well as two eagle eye pods in the step wells:

Just want to add that I too put those retrofit 5500k HID's in 3 days ago, and they are %100 better than factory. The stock halogens are just not right in my mind. The HID's totally make the difference, I would highly recommend them; took around 1.5 hours to install and that was taking time. Once tip would be to silicone the crap out of the grommets, but couldn't be happier.

Couldn't you just avoid the first connector, and plug all the black wires and output into this guy: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/wire-connectors/28-12-ga-lever-lock-quick-connect-terminal-blocks/1372/3144/ Saving you one connector? Either way, like mentioned above - clean setup

Ah! Well that's good to know. I was wondering that ratio was actually, so appreciate it! Much better to say to people than; "I'm not sure actually, there's just a small space in there to lift it a little."

If you also tap the clock in the upper right hand corner you'll get the same radio image

Put a 3/4" spacer in front to raise it a little. I'm not sure what amount that in turn raises the front. Tires are Nitto Radial Grappler 33x1250x22 To correct the madneride I had the shop 'relearn' the sensors to the calibration was correct, but I think I might add a washer to each sensor for some extra cushion. The measurements currently from ground to start of fender: Front = 38" Rear = 40" They do rub a hair on full lock, but is kind of expected.

Yeah, I thought about putting an adapter in, which I assume just relocates the magnetic suspension arm to the correct angle. Being the shop re-calibrated the arm to '0' degrees in the computer, should balance out.

Just got the windows tinted last night, love the outcome.

Reviving from the dead, but I just had a level kit put in from a local dealer who actually just machines metal spaces for the front. After driving out of the neighboring mechanic shop I could tell it rode horrible, so called them up an asked if the magnetic suspension was touched and they didn't realize this truck had it. So, I brought it back two days later, had them reset the magneride sensors and calibrate them to the position they are when it's not under load - to which I was told "It took me a couple minutes, so if you ever need them done again, swing in an I'll handle them quick." So easy solution. Took it for a spin all seems great again. It does seem a little more rough from factory height, but still a pleasant ride. I didn't end up using spacers or brackets, but may come to regret it if I ever get to sensitive to the ride. My theory is that, although the sensor was re-calibrated, the angle of the arm changes the the speed at which the sensor reacts - probably ever so slightly that I couldn't tell. Probably a mind game. Anyways, just putting my 10 cents in.

Picked up a 2015 Denali, and absolutely love it! I did get a level kit in, which through of the magneride, so it's currently getting that reset along with the alignment today.