Any chance those are a different output than the 14-15 sierra? I've had 2 sierras - 14 and 15, and both times I struggled in the county - both times prior to tinting the windshield. Once I did the windshield tint I knew I was updating the bulbs regardless, but prior to that they always seemed like a dull yellow.
Just want to add that I too put those retrofit 5500k HID's in 3 days ago, and they are %100 better than factory. The stock halogens are just not right in my mind. The HID's totally make the difference, I would highly recommend them; took around 1.5 hours to install and that was taking time. Once tip would be to silicone the crap out of the grommets, but couldn't be happier.
Well, made a super odd discovery.. I was asked to bring some cinder blocks to another location, total weight... 264 lbs (8 * 33lb quotes). Probably the best ride I've experience in the truck. I went to the store, grabbed 5 bags of sand 300 lbs - perfect fix for now until I nail down the Magnetic Ride Suspension sensors. Rides amazing. Proof: I do have the cover up so it doesn't look to ghetoo for a Denali lol...
Just got a 2015 Denali, love the truck but have a little ride control problem with the level kit - possible I'm being paranoid. I had a 3/4" block under the front strut put in - forum member helped me see it causes double the lift - so 1.5" lift. After driving out from the shop, I noticed it road pretty bad - researched and had them perform a relearn on the MRS sensors - better outcome. Then I added 33" grapplers - rough again. Is it possible that added those tires on the 22's could stiffen that suspension up again, because it feels like it? I'm going in for another 'relearn' which at the shop I'm visiting may cost me $20. They walked me through what they do - coming from Audi's I'm well aware of plugging in cables and messing around with certain settings: - Attaching the computer to the OB2 - suspension relearn - is vehicle under any load - no - reset? YES Basic steps that perform a reset. Anyone else watched it done or heard otherwise? I'm a little nervous getting the relearn done, and it if makes it worse I have to find someone with stock 22's and relearn again, then get brackets. Sorry for the long post - there are some threads out there and maybe this will turn into a helpful one down the road for other users - or die in the abyss of useless kilobytes. I'll keep it updated as I learn more. Thanks!
Couldn't you just avoid the first connector, and plug all the black wires and output into this guy: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/wire-connectors/28-12-ga-lever-lock-quick-connect-terminal-blocks/1372/3144/ Saving you one connector? Either way, like mentioned above - clean setup
I would go with a trade, but one thing from doing this in the past: When I pulled the rear trim off and wrapped it, I could not for the life of me get it back on. The front portion snapped in like a glove but the back half of the rear piece would not budge - on both sides. Not trying to deter you as I'm sure other people have had success, but the next time I wrap im the vehicle with 1080 3M I'm going to leave it on the car when.
Well the brackets held up, the ride was a hair better surprisingly. I will add that I plan to get some actual sheet metal to make brackets, but wanted to test it out. Took 20 minutes to modify, and even doing this after the 'relearn' I think it helped. Going to test spacing out next and get some measurements as well. Edit: Took them off Think it was a mental hope that it indeed did ride well. So. Going to ride without the brackets for a while and see if I'm just being too paranoid.
Just put this info in my build, but below is my setup and my tips would be to be ready to deal with the magneride adjustment as I was not aware of that as much as I should of at first, so kind of crushed when I got in my leveled pickup to feel it ride like a bobcat. Anyways: Put a 3/4" spacer in front to raise it a little. I'm not sure what amount that in turn raises the front. Tires are Nitto Radial Grappler 33x1250x22 To correct the madneride I had the shop 'relearn' the sensors to the calibration was correct, but I think I might add a washer to each sensor for some extra cushion. The measurements currently from ground to start of fender: Front = 38" Rear = 40" They do rub a hair on full lock, but is kind of expected.
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I have plans to do this in the future an did some brainstorming.. I recently added the pop lock tail gate locking mechanism and followed this video on Milkcrate82's page: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fF1d7z2HjFw You'll see at 8:25 he starts working on the driver side and there is a grommet to push the cable through, as well as the passenger side - which is plastic and I would for sure use silicone after making a small hole, I wouldn't remove the whole grommet by any means. The driver side - just poked a hole and pushed the wires through. Keep us posted, I'd like to see some out comes of the lights.
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