If the sound disappears when you turn the steering, like going around a corner, and then reappears on the straight, its likely the steering shaft boot. There is a TSB for the 2017s for this. I really don’t think it’s a predetonation noise or seat noise, if it sounds like it’s coming from under the steering wheel. An alternative solution is to pump some lithium grease into the seal yourself to see if the noise settles down. If it does, that’s your issue.
If this is a marbles in a can sound, with low RPM and the engine under a slight load, it’s more than likely the steering shaft seal letting DI pump noise into the cabin.
So I know the clicking issue has been covered and the suggested solution Is to do the hose clamp trick. my issue is somewhat different. I have an intermittent click noise that is coming from the recliner motor area of the seat. I can recreate the sound by adjusting the seat angle via the button, and then get in the back and put pressure on the shoulder of the seat in a side to side fashion. I then have to adjust the seat angle again to make the noise in this way. there seems to be a good bit of slop in the motor as it spins for about an eighth of a second before the seat moves. I’m hesitant to go to the dealership as they already said that they added the retainer, and that’s the fix, but that’s not a fix for my issue. in summary it sounds like an issue with the recliner mechanism, and not necessarily the frame itself. anybody any thoughts on this?
I had an issue with wind noise. Dealer could not find it. I know you said they taped up the door and the noise went away, but you should redo the test yourself. My leak was in the same place as the attached image (red). It disappeared when i taped up the mirror. It sounded like the wind was coming in over my ear. My suggestion would be for you to tape up your mirror, go for a drive and see. If it stops, you know you have a leak here. I used some gasket sealer between the door and gasket and the gasket and mirror (red line) and then opened the door, let down the window and wrapped tape around the window frame and mirror plastic to compress the gap and close it while the gasket sealer cured (blue line). It worked. Don't go messing with your hinges just yet.
You will be OK to retorque the existing bolts. For grease, it's a personal choice. thicker grease will attract dirt. but might give better results. Not to worry, we are all happy to help and provide suggestions. I hope it works out for you.
Well, I'm not sure where an extra turn with the breaker bar will put the final torque at. Just be careful you don't stretch the bolts. Here's a link of how to lube the pads. You can inspect them to make sure they are there while you're lubing them. Make sure they are clean before lube. Part number could be 84474225 https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10139210-9999.pdf
60ft lb is not the correct torque. Correct me if I'm wrong, you're supposed to torque to 59 ft lb, then put a breaker bar on, and rotate the nut another 130 degrees for final torque. Try this. If it persists, you might have worn isolation pads on the spring tips. They can be relubed or replaced easily enough.
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