Tyy1907

Ive got a white 18 Lt but crew cab standard box. This is the identical setup I'm looking to get. Got the stock 18's as well. Ive got airbags in the back though as I carry a truck camper. Looks good! Is yours a lower spacer or an upper?

So for anyone that can comprehend that gobli gook, ive got an 18 Lt with a steel knuckle. Found Craigslist Cast steel uppers off of a 14. Would these balljoints fit in my knuckles?

I'm also getting a pop noise in my 18 z71 Lt. Dealer said it's too hard to nail down cause it's too intermittent (drove with sErvice manager to show him) he also tried blaming it on cold weather. Course now it seems more frequent. I'll be going back again

But do they need to document it was done and what not? Maybe your dealer trusts you Heck I'll donit myself too it's such a PITA taking it in to dealer

Itll just destroy one of your rear window segments. Some trim will melt also F150s have had this problem longer than chevys from what I've gathered and they've issued no recall so +1 for gm. I e looked on some f150 forums and it seems to ne that debris caught in the sliding window or something else bends one of the contact tabs basically arcing across the larger gap and causing big time heat resulting in melted window trim and eventual glass smashery.That's my current conclusion which is subject to change. I was called to bring in my 2018 Lt so they could pull the defrost fuse. If I can adequately see the contacts and periodically inspect them I might just put the fuse back in as I use my rear defroster dammit! We have cold temps up here.

Angles are not near stock. I thought they'd correct the angles more considering they're throwing in new knuckles too but they tilt the upper balljoint mount so it's more in a level plane putting less stress on the balljoint but other than that the tie rod angles are steep and CV angles are equivalent to a 2.5" level.

-So the black wire that says yellow end is an rca cable and has a red a yellow and a bare ground in it -This red wire runs from where it says "to reverse light" all the way to where it juts out near the bottom. Continuity the whole way Yellow and ground run from camera to "yellow end" ( ground splits off also as seen)

In my quest to restore and use a truck camper I bought on the cheap I need to install a different backup cam as my tailgate needs to be down or removed. K no big deal but I'm looking into trying to plug an aftermarket cam into my 8 pin plug that the oem plugs into so I can use my factory screen. I've been doing quite a bit of research on this and found some good wiring diagrams thanks to this forum. And found a source for the plug and pins. However I cant quite nail down what wires should go where. Any help would be great

I just ordered an auto vox 6 license plate cam for when my truck camper is on (tail gate has to be down/removed). I've also ordered the compatible plug and pins that plug in where my tailgate camera plugs. Am I dreaming or does think this will work?

Anyone try 4 hi at 60 mph Still smooth as factory?

U have a full size spare? It fits underneath?

2014 - first year of the new body style I'd never buy a first year redesign 2019's good luck

What brandc2" block did u go with? No vibrations?

Did u get wheel alignment after level put in? Verify that with ur dealer cause that can cause vibration. Level kit will reduce clearance between UCA and bump stop which means limited down travel so if u hit a speed bump bit too fast it could clunk and hit the stop. I think my bump stop has a rubber piece un it but I dont see one in urs

Curious why you want to go back to stock Is there an issue with the lift? What would u want for the 4" blocks and are they tapered?