I don’t have a photo, it’s wrapped in tape now lol. If I recall correctly I grabbed the harness right at the headlight. I believe the harness goes through a grommet before plugging into the headlight. Granted the gmc headlights are a bit different but I assume it’s somewhat close. Regardless there will be a high beam wire going into the headlight housing, you’ll have to verify which one first but it’ll be there.
Ok, I did this with my two spot and my wide beam light install on my AT4. Keep in mind this is how I did it knowing I will be changing it around in the future. If you want to use a switch to toggle the lights on and off you’ll need two relays to do it right. If you want them always on with high beam you can get away with 1 relay. Switch relay (relay 1) High beam relay (relay 2) Step 1- you need two SPST relays. 86 on both will be grounded, 30 on the switch relay (relay 1) will need to be fused directly from the battery at an amperage high enough for your light bar. Mine is 15 amps. Step 2-switch relay (relay 1).First I ran a ‘zip’ wire (two wires bonded together) through the firewall and into the truck. These two connect to a regular toggle switch that I have floating around cause I didn’t want to drill a hole. If you have a lighted switch you will need a ground wire as well. 18 gauge is plenty for this. This switch allows me to turn the light bars on or off. (Only trips on with high beams with the 2nd relay). 12 volt into the switch is one of the wires, fused at 3 amps directly from the battery. The wire going out goes to 85 on the relay. Step 3-switch relay out to high beam relay(relay2). 87 from relay 1 goes to 30 of relay 2. This basically sees the switch on trigger and allows it to activate the second relay which will use the high beam trigger. Step 4- high beam relay (relay 2). I tapped into the high beam right at the harness going into the headlight. It was just easier for me. I metered and verified the correct wire and used a solder with heat shrink style “butt”connector to tap it. This is the signal wire to trip the high beam relay. It will go to 85 on the high beam relay. Step 5- 87 on the high beam relay (relay 2) will Be the 12 volt output that will power your light bar. Using relays this way keeps your light bar from drawing too much amperage from the factory high beam wire so it doesn’t mess with the computer. The switch will allow the system to be on or off. Works nicely with the auto high beam as well if your truck is equipped.
Those lights are made by whelen engineering, pioneer slimlines. Idk about subtle, I had to cut the valence above the bumper into two pieces, but it was the best way I found to do what I wanted! The lights in the back are pioneer nano 6’s, also by whelen.
Finally, an AT4 thread! -Wrapped the “black chrome” fog light bezels most recently -added some extra lighting in the front - extra backup lighting helps with the ridiculously bright screen problem -retrax tonneau with Yakima rack
That’s awesome! Thanks for the idea I’ll have to try it!
I have this problem.... and I’m looking for a cover to put over the armrest to protect it a bit. Possibly with a little padding, you know for nap time. Any thoughts?
Whelen pioneer slimline. https://www.strobesnmore.com/Whelen-Single-Dual-Pioneer-SlimLine-Scenelight.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw5Ij2BRBdEiwA0Frc9YIQhEZAdiZub6bL-KR7A4q8_GDCTXMDarIa7QVItL_4eH3tP-bVzRoCUdwQAvD_BwE When you upfit police cars you tend to stick with that equipment when you see the abuse it can take!
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