Rocky-X

No, I haven't had a chance yet to hit dirt. I have the WT model so the OEM shocks were pretty weak from the start and blown out by 60k miles. Colorado has some of the worst roads I've ever driven on and so far the entire suspension kit has been a terrific upgrade, would highly recommend. For the price, the 2R's excel in keeping your rear end planted on especially choppy sections of paved road (like expansion joints on bridges) where the rear end would typically like to "skip".

Eibach Stage 2R Shocks & Coilovers (set to about 1.5-2" lift / leveled out) Icon Delta Joint Tubular Upper Control Arms Falken WildPeak 315/70R-17 Pro Comp 32 Wheels 17x9 (4.75" Backspace & -6mm Offset) Significant rubbing in wheel well currently and will need to trim wheel well plastic.

Update: Ordered new rims and got 'em installed today - they're Pro Comp 32's (17x9) with 4.75" backspacing & -6mm offset. They poke out of the wheel wells quite a bit so I'll be chipping paint on the rockers in the future but hey - they now clear the control arms! I have some plastic to trim behind the wheel well fabric, the tires start rubbing around 3/4 full lock - yeesh. Hey thanks again for you guy's input. I put 200 miles on my bicycle commuting this week while the truck sat - self punishment for being a dumbass. Here's some pics:

Update: As @Grumpy Bear and @Black02Silverado said - the alignment did not fix this issue so I now need to find new rims with enough of a negative offset or backspacing to clear the ball joint. Tech also recommended replacing the front two tires from the grooves carved into them which is a bummer - expensive mistake but I'm the only one to blame. Going to call Icon to see what they recommend for wheels as I'm not open to trying wheel spacers.

That is a bummer, but I guess that's what I get for going with a much wider tire. I really did NOT expect new upper control arms to have this effect, in fact I was thinking it would have a bit of the opposite where I would gain a bit more clearance. Just dropped off at the tire shop so I guess I'll wait to get a call back from a tech, but I'm with you @Black02Silverado, I've never used spacers and not a fan based on what I've read about them in the past - and I wasn't looking to replace with different offset wheels either. Guess I'm just bellyaching at this point but appreciate your responses. I'll update on where this ends up. I guess my next question (because this is the first time I've installed new uppers) - why did the 315 tires NOT rub on the stock UCA when I was running a stock suspension? Thanks.

Howdy, I just installed the Eibach coilovers and shocks paired with Icon's Delta upper control arms this weekend. I took a peak in the wheel well this evening and realized that the tires are contacting the ball joint of the upper control arms and it's chiseled in a small groove on the sidewall already from the 10-15 miles I've put on since doing the swap. It's doing this on both side of the truck. My tires are 315/70R-17 which is much wider than the stock 265/70R-17. However I've been running these 315 tires on my truck with the stock UCA's for almost a year now and have had no tire rub. Anyways, I'm headed to the tire shop tomorrow for an alignment and wondering if the alignment will fix this? I know my alignment is way outta wack since the lift & new UCA's so I'm hoping that'll fix the problem. Also hoping I haven't damaged my sidewall with the rubbing, too.

@Diamond817 This is great information, I was just typing up a new thread on this exact question so really appreciate you posting the parts numbers. Couple questions for you: You ended up going with 3/8" spacers, correct? What brand spacers did you buy? They were hub centric, correct? Did you also buy aftermarket lug nuts? Appreciate your help on this!

I finally got the RaceFace T2 pad. Fits pretty good, lots of adjustment in the straps for the varying thickness of the top of tailgate. I need to adjust the opening on the pad for the backup camera some more because the pad eats into some of the left side of my view. On the tailgate latch itself, the camera appears to be on the left side of the latch but I don't know what the other camera-looking thing is on the right side of the latch - does anyone know? I'm new to backup cams.

@ChriZ71 Awesome getting 9 bikes on the truck! Here's mine with just 6 - and I thought that was a bunch!

Thanks, now I can see. Glad to see the back-up camera works with the pad on - I was afraid that the camera was mounted too high on the tailgate to work with this pad. As for your concern with the bowing, I see what you mean. Aren't there adjustment straps on the top of the pad to deal with tailgates that bow in the center? Does that not fix the issue?

@IdahoElevation Hey can you please re-post your photo? It's not showing up (or at least I can't view it). I'm curious because I've been looking at getting the RaceFace T2 as well and wanted to see how it fits. Thanks,

Haven't lifted my Silverado yet, but I did install a lift & shims on my previous vehicle (Xterra) and from my understanding you install the smaller end/bladed end of the shim towards the front. That appears to be the way you have it shown in the photo so that SHOULD be the correct way from what I understand. I'm assuming you don't have any vibrations?

@Trza & @redwngr & @Rob Mugs Thanks for your help. Turns out @redwngr was correct in that the riveted portion was just wrapping around the metal of the wheelwell & there are no holes in the metal that the rivets go through. Basically the metal is sandwhiched between the splash guard and another small piece of plastic on the inside of the wheelwell. I was able to remove the Torx screws and then slide the splash guard off with the rivets still attached. However, most people probably want to drill those rivets out because it's a very tight fit and I had to slide grit-covered plastic over the painted metal which most people are NOT going to be cool with doing as there's a potential to scratch some clear coat - not too much of a concern for me though. Thanks for your help & entertaining my goofy entry-level question.

@Rob Mugs Partly for looks & mostly for taking the truck off road and getting into situations where these will get torn off. Thanks for your input. Just kinda weird (to me at least) that they were riveted on to begin with.

Howdy - trying to remove the splash guards front and rear and it looks like the rear wheel splash guards are attached with a mix of Torx bolts (blue in photo) & what I think are pop rivets (red in photo). From what I'm finding, I'm probably going to have to use a drill or something to remove the pop rivets. Is this the correct way to remove these pop rivets? Just kinda confused that I have to destroy the rivets to get the splash guard off versus just everything being Torx so I can take them on & off easily in the future. Sorry for such a goofy question - thanks.