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Everything posted by jflan23

  1. Sadly, as I sit looking at a 36 gal diesel tank, it’s not a simple replacement. The width between the straps are way way off. Still going to pull the 24 gallon tank and see if/what would be involved to do it…. Doesn’t look promising.
  2. Looking at a stage 3, anyone with any reviews? It would be on my AT4, only looking for 1-2” of additional lift but want way better performance. thanks!
  3. Where is that community you follow? I currently have a ‘19 AT4 with lane keep assist, if I can get open pilot to work with that and allow me to end up with ACC I would love it. Thanks
  4. I own the 6.2 with the 10 speed (at4), my father owns the diesel. I have towed with both, I prefer the 6.2. They both have pretty much the exact same torque, 6.2 has way more hp. You’re going to sacrifice fuel mileage, however gasoline is cheaper than diesel and if you don’t drive all that much it wouldn’t make a difference. The only time I wish I had the 3.0 is when I take trips from Connecticut up to Maine when I wish I got a little better mileage (still get 16-18 going 70 on the highway) not towing of course. My vote, 6.2.
  5. I have been looking as well, Any fitment issues after having it for a while? How much taller than can height is it? Thanks!
  6. So, I’ve been looking around but can’t find the answer. Does anyone know what the bed sides will support for weight? For instance if I had a flat platform resting on the three sides what would it hold? (A rating not what it would probably hold) Its the normal bed not the carbon pro. Thanks
  7. I have a 19 AT4 with the 6’5” bed, looking to change up my bed storage. Plenty of info out there I know, but I’m specifically looking for pictures and/ or reviews on a camper top/ truck cap that is higher than the cab. Thanks
  8. Are the camera connections regular coax video connectors?
  9. Mine aren’t clamped to the rails, the tonneau cover I got (retrax pro xr) have a T-slot. The Yakima racks have an adaptor kit that allows it to bolt right to the t-slot.
  10. It’s actually 3 smaller lights, I had them so that’s what I did. Two are spots and one is flood. They’re all Whelen pioneer slimline’s.
  11. Glad to see I’m not the only one who broke all the tabs. They are a pain in the butt to get off, I also wrapped them black, looks way better!
  12. I have a universal base and two arms from 67 designs. And a universal tough tray from ram for the iPad. The tray is a little thick but I have the iPad pro 12.9 so there’s not a whole lot out there that’ll hold it. Literally every other size iPad ever has better mounting trays.
  13. How do you like the icon kit? Did you gain any additional lift over the stock AT4? I’ve used fox in the past with my other trucks but keep seeing icon around with good reviews.
  14. Bigger maps are better maps [emoji1303] don’t worry, it’s for off road use only.
  15. I don’t have a night pic. I basically cut the plastic valence above the bumper in two pieces and put the lights in the middle. Two are spots the center is wide angle.
  16. I don’t have a photo, it’s wrapped in tape now lol. If I recall correctly I grabbed the harness right at the headlight. I believe the harness goes through a grommet before plugging into the headlight. Granted the gmc headlights are a bit different but I assume it’s somewhat close. Regardless there will be a high beam wire going into the headlight housing, you’ll have to verify which one first but it’ll be there.
  17. Ok, I did this with my two spot and my wide beam light install on my AT4. Keep in mind this is how I did it knowing I will be changing it around in the future. If you want to use a switch to toggle the lights on and off you’ll need two relays to do it right. If you want them always on with high beam you can get away with 1 relay. Switch relay (relay 1) High beam relay (relay 2) Step 1- you need two SPST relays. 86 on both will be grounded, 30 on the switch relay (relay 1) will need to be fused directly from the battery at an amperage high enough for your light bar. Mine is 15 amps. Step 2-switch relay (relay 1).First I ran a ‘zip’ wire (two wires bonded together) through the firewall and into the truck. These two connect to a regular toggle switch that I have floating around cause I didn’t want to drill a hole. If you have a lighted switch you will need a ground wire as well. 18 gauge is plenty for this. This switch allows me to turn the light bars on or off. (Only trips on with high beams with the 2nd relay). 12 volt into the switch is one of the wires, fused at 3 amps directly from the battery. The wire going out goes to 85 on the relay. Step 3-switch relay out to high beam relay(relay2). 87 from relay 1 goes to 30 of relay 2. This basically sees the switch on trigger and allows it to activate the second relay which will use the high beam trigger. Step 4- high beam relay (relay 2). I tapped into the high beam right at the harness going into the headlight. It was just easier for me. I metered and verified the correct wire and used a solder with heat shrink style “butt”connector to tap it. This is the signal wire to trip the high beam relay. It will go to 85 on the high beam relay. Step 5- 87 on the high beam relay (relay 2) will Be the 12 volt output that will power your light bar. Using relays this way keeps your light bar from drawing too much amperage from the factory high beam wire so it doesn’t mess with the computer. The switch will allow the system to be on or off. Works nicely with the auto high beam as well if your truck is equipped.
  18. Where did you get the grill overlays? I’ve been wanting to wrap the black chrome to black but I’m not ready for the challenge lol.
  19. So you may be able to but I don’t trust that. I tapped the power and ground from the trailer harness to power a relay, then tapped the reverse lights to trip the relay.
  20. I ran that set up on my 2010 and my 2014, awesome ride. I assume the same would be true with the T1’s
  21. I can get some photos. They were a pain in the ass at first, once I figured out where the clips were that hole them in it wasn’t bad
  22. I ordered some Avery wrap from amazon, popped the bezels off and wrapped them! Took a few tries but I got it.
  23. Those lights are made by whelen engineering, pioneer slimlines. Idk about subtle, I had to cut the valence above the bumper into two pieces, but it was the best way I found to do what I wanted! The lights in the back are pioneer nano 6’s, also by whelen.
  24. Finally, an AT4 thread! -Wrapped the “black chrome” fog light bezels most recently -added some extra lighting in the front - extra backup lighting helps with the ridiculously bright screen problem -retrax tonneau with Yakima rack
  25. That’s awesome! Thanks for the idea I’ll have to try it!
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