Not a huge thing, but vinyl wrapped the front/rear bowties. My white ‘17 Z71 had the black bow tie package and was one of the few things I enjoyed about that truck, so I figured I’d recreate it but refused to buy actual bow ties.
This. At the end of the day, you can't change physics with increased resistance and drag from a lift and heavier rolling stock, but you can help the engine by using a lower gear ratio (front and rear). Don't forget the the mileage effect is amplified by the odometer under-reporting miles travelled with larger tires, unless it has been corrected.
I too hated the narrower rear of my K5 (that and they seemed to be made of glass; I blew up 2 of them). I'm sure you'll be re-gearing the front to match the rear? I love the K5s.
Just remember that the Fumoto valves add 2 additional points of failure: 1) they protrude and may catch debris. I've had brake lines ripped out from exploded re-tread, no doubt the same would damage the valve 2) the valve itself leaking. A valve certainty is that eventually they'll leak. I only run magnetic plugs, so the valve eliminates that as well. In all honesty, over decades of doing all my own work from engine rebuilts/swaps to body work to frame repair, I've never understood the claimed "ease" of a valve over loosening a drain plug... 10-15 seconds saved, tops The messiest part is the oil filter anyway. To each their own.
The engines I mentioned are designed to run an oil separator; the drain hose enters the pan under the oil level surface, so oil pump suction must pull from the drain hose. Most catch-cans are add-ons; these are designed by the manufacturer and included with the engine. If I were to ever add one to my truck, I'd emulate the set-up. On our trucks, it would of course be an extensive endeavor (pulling the pan and welding in a fitting to attach the hose). The biggest draw-back to a catch-can is having to remember to check and empty it; having the oil return to the pan 1) eliminates the hassle of checking/draining and 2) eliminates oil "consumption."
I'm at 73k and the dealer just changed the rear pads, only because the rear rotors were warped, they cut them, and then didn't like the resulting thickness, so they changed everything (including parking brake shoes). It was all under warranty, so not like it was a money grab. Fronts are still original, and have ~75% thickness remaining. If I get less than 100k on a set of pads, I'm not angry... I'm ashamed.
dukedkt442 replied to cowboy86's topic in 6.6L (LML/L5P) & 6.0L (L96/LC8) TechWarranty/lemon/lawyer whatever. The PCV/oil separator failed, pure and simple. The old Detroit (GM) diesels were famous for this, sometimes sucking the shutters clear into the intake when tried to choke them and nothing to do but watch. I haven't seen this in a looooong time on a diesel.... good luck.
Disclosure: I don’t have a catch can on my truck, but was pointing out how the oil separators on our 1000 and 2000 ci marine diesels have it ran. The drain line goes into the side of the pan beneath the oil level. They are open drain all the time without issue, and being diesel, never have fuel passing over the valves, yet when we pull heads after 10-15k hours, the valves are clean. Clearly that set up works.
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