Grumpy and I will be the null hypothesis candidates, I see. The catch can guys say they are necessary, or the engine won’t last. I say they’re needless. One can’t support the idea that a catch can is needed unless there are no cases of stock engines going the distance, but even then the results are vague. One can say “there are no Bigfoots”, but lack of evidence is not evidence in and of itself, perhaps the searcher wasn’t trying hard enough? Likewise, all it takes is a single stock engine going the distance to disprove catch can claims. I don’t care how valve stems look. I care how the engine runs. I have a 45 year old engine in one of my daily drivers whose valvetrain looked like pure tar when I got it and the valve even worse, yet she fires up with the flick of the key and will run circles around my truck. The important part is what the valve seat looks like not the stem. It’s like the car version of “beauty is only a light switch away.”
If I went anymore East I’d be in the Atlantic. Anyone have engine dyno slips pre and post valve cleaning? Or is this just more Internet forum, weekend warrior hyperbole?
It’s not the gears. My dodge with 3.92s would pull 22 on the highway doing 75. My 442 with a 3.73 rear, a 350 and an 850 CFM carb does 19 on the highway all day at 72 mph. The key items were your trans and the tune, not the gears. I’d never expect any 4 speed truck to get over 18. 93 only works if the timing advances enough to take advantage of the lack of predetonation, otherwise you’ll get worse mileage.
That’s all the reason I need to never do an induction or valve cleaning. Why? “Because they say it couldn’t be done.” Cue the Bandit-Snowman memes.
Not for nothing, but I’ve seen indirect injection valves that look worse than those. I wouldn’t worry not lose sleep over it. Quality oil and a reasonable (non OLM) OCI mitigates valve coking so that’s what I do. I really don’t see much in the pic that would effect performance, the valve face itself looks clean.
I’ve been meaning to use that oil...I missed it. Oh well, not like PP is “bad.” I tend to run them until the frame folds in half. Only problem I’ve ever had was on a previously rebuilt motor in my Olds that spun a bearing after 40k miles, that I wasn’t aware was rebuilt until I pulled the heads and started pulling rod end caps. That engine is now a mooring anchor. Literally.
Not sure if it’ll work on these, but after disconnecting the battery on my X3, the steering angle sensor needs to be recalibrated, or the AWD binds and nuclear fallout ensues; the method on that old German is to turn the wheel lock to lock a few times. Anyone know if that’s applicable to these trucks?
I just picked up 4- 5 quart jugs of Pennzoil platinum 0w-20, each with a Mobil 1 filter, for $27 each set from Advance... the deals are there. I wouldn’t call that oil bad or wrong... I bought many because of the deal.
My best ~300mile distance was 26.5 rolling North through DelMarVa back in August from OBX Cruise set to 62 mph, 85* ambient temp, tonneau cover rolled up with bikes and patio furniture. That was by hand calculation between fill ups not the computer. Best 50 mile computer is 30.5 mpg. All on 87. Around town on E85 gets me 16-17 on average, but only 18-20 on the highway (I’m sure speeds of 70+ on the jersey turnpike contribute to that...we bought his truck to be the coastwise long distance hauler and sees NY-OBX or FL 4-6 times a year). 2016 Crew Cab 4x4 5.3 LT, 78k miles. Just like my Dodge, switched to Redline full synthetics in the diffs and transfer case and picked up a mpg or 2. My last truck was an ‘04 F150 Screw FX4 leveled on slightly oversized tires with 155k in its 5.4 when I sold it, and the best that could muster was 15 on the highway. My dad’s ‘16 Colorado CC Z71 went over 500 miles between fillups 2 weeks ago on the OBX run, calculating to close to 30 mpg on that 3.6, but he kept it under 60. Personally no matter what the number, I’m very impressed with these full size trucks averaging anything over 20 mpg; compact 4x4 trucks couldn’t come close to touching that just 15 years ago. My Silverado can tie my X3 with 100 more hp, 2 extra cylinders (sometimes), 1600+ more lbs, and the aerodynamics of a brick. Truly impressive.
For the first ones, yes. The first 10k is when most of the wear occurs, held in suspension by these unfiltered fluids.. After that I go 20k on transfer case, 30k on diffs, with a Trans drain/fill every 10k.
I hate auto dims with a passion. They never dim as much or as quickly as I can, if at all. But then again I am an anally retentive analog type of guy. Id keep it manual. No one should be that lazy.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 135 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,122 Guests (See full list)
- Hosia Towery
- Knife Edge
- Frank DeVoe
- RAYS B4U
- GMC Sierra 34
- HK GUY
- bass mechanic
- Ken Potts
- Marty c.
- michael betz
- asci computer
- Brandon Hoffman
- Brendin Mack
- Mike Major
- Andres Oseguera
- Derek white
- Red highcountry
- MTU Alum