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dukedkt442 last won the day on June 13

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  1. Currently about to leave the OBX and go back to NY... on the way down, computer said 16.7 mpg by the time I filled up in DE. That was on E85 (my worst ever on E85), and I filled up with a quarter tank left with 87 (my first time putting 87 in the truck!). Since then, the computer was showed 22.4 until I got to the Banks (cruising at 62 mph, occasional traffic light). Once here, there's been only 45 mph and under speeds, lots of traffic, lights, and even about 10 miles on the beach in 4-hi and 4-lo, and the computer is showing 18.3. I didn't hand calculate these, as the computer has shown to be within .5 mpg of my hand calculations every time. The truck isn't heavily packed, but the tonneau cover is rolled up with a couple of bikes laying sideways on top of my gear in the bed, so that does disrupt the airflow. The truck is all stock right down to it 17" factory wheels (which I hate).
  2. The spec is referring to either lateral motion (I don't know which style of retainer these trucks use), or lash at the spider gears (which could be a result of lateral play in the axle itself). For what it's worth, the leaf squeaks aren't new; my '99 did it for the 2 years and 60k miles I owned the truck.
  3. Another one for stock AC Delco plugs and wires. As much as the #8 plug "sucks" to get to (it doesn't, really), it is still easier than the easiest Ford V8 plug, and no more difficult than a V8 G-body. On my F150, that position (#4 in Ford-speak) requires removal of the PCM and its bracket; a proper plug job on that truck takes about 4 hours (without breaking any). I did plugs/wires on my '16 K2 in about 45 minutes, and that was taking my time.
  4. $35k is a lot better than $45k, and 70k miles of warranty is better than 60k. I'd be all over the used 2016 LT... oh wait, I am... bought my '16 CC LT for $24k with warranty until 2022. When you get the '18 under $40k, then it starts looking better.
  5. Greg can try his luck getting full price for an old truck. Greg is trying to get you nervous about "losing out". Greg can't even spell. If you don't reply, Bill (the evening internet sales director who does things differently) will email you saying he can do something that Greg can't. No offense, but if you're on a budget, don't even look at a new truck. Get a slightly used truck for half the price and, if CPO, a better/longer warranty than a new one. Save the rest because that house is going to need it.
  6. 1) how are you sure the transfer case has gear oil in it? 2) even if only 30k miles, it's due for a change. Change it pronto. 3) it takes Dex 6.
  7. Your odds are a direct result of how well you maintain the truck. If you follow GM's service schedule, just getting to 100k will be problematic. To get to the high numbers (there's a BIG difference between 200k and 300k), you need one developed with the vehicle's condition in mind, not the condition of your wallet. Fluid changes at what some may consider "overkill" mileage, weekly under-body hose-outs to keep rust away, highway miles and not around-town miles, etc. The odds are better than you'll likely tire of the truck long before you hit those miles anyway, which could be 10-15 or more years away. Lot's of people claim they want to go the distance, but then trade up soon after the truck's paid off or by 100k miles, when the next latest and greatest version comes out.
  8. Has the filter already been changed and pan/magnet cleared? If so, I don't see a problem with that. If not, you could order a new pan with a drain plug; I definitely wouldn't pull fluid without replacing the filter and cleaning the pan. Most wear is going to occur in the first 10k miles on these transmissions, after that, any particulate is just circulating through creating more wear particles, which create more wear particles, etc. When I dropped the pan on my F150, I couldn't even see the magnet under the literal ant hill of metal shavings (but that was at 143k miles, 70k of which was towing a 10k lb travel trailer to and on the beach, and had original fluid in it).
  9. When about half the old fluid comes out on a single drain, it really isn't; 2 drains is 75% new fluid, 3 is 87.5%, etc. Easier than dealing with a dealer, a fluid exchange machine, or disconnecting lines, but not as "perfect." After 5-6 drain/fills, I dial it back. Won't see me having a mechanical failure during the life of any vehicle.
  10. I replace the fluid in every drivetrain component (except the engine) every 20-30k miles depending on the part in question and the manufacturer. I installed a drain plug in my transmission pan so I can drain/fill every engine oil change (5k miles). Silly to buy a $30-60k truck and then cry about maintaining it.
  11. Braver than me... glad it made it, but there's far too much to deal with after the fact to make it worthwhile (fluid changes, new bearings, etc). Electronics don't like being underwater, hopefully random problems don't start popping up in a few months when corrosion really sets in.
  12. ^ trucks need low RPM torque, not HP; that's why Ford went back to pushrods for their new 7.3 gasser. HP only tells part of the story. You could max out the tow rating of the Colorado with a trailer, a 2500 with a 6.0 will pull both all day long. The 6.0 is a reliable engine; there are reasons GM still uses (up until the new T1 truck) it in the 2500 and 3500 trucks and not the more powerful 6.2. The 6.0 takes 87 and has a simpler, more reliable valvetrain, which is what commercial guys require.
  13. Don't pull the switch all the way, and you won't have to fear the "DANGER!" of windows while driving. The dealer is also completely correct, it isn't a switch problem, it is a rainguard problem. Most everyone here with in-channel rain guards has the same issue. The auto-up has a pressure switch (you know, for safety), and the rain guards decrease the width of the window channel thereby increasing pressure. There is a way to "reset" the pressure sensor yourself (that I've had no luck with), but dealers should be able to do it also (mine could not). Feel free to write to GM about the switch, but make sure you mention the rainguards... those folks need a good laugh. The switches have 2 positions, very cleared defined by pressure: first detent is manual, second is auto. The best, and certainly easiest, way to disable the "auto" feature is by not pressing nor pulling the switch all the way. It's not a complicated process. These trucks are perfectly equipped to run manual control of the power windows all day long. No offense, but if the dexterity is lacking to operate a window switch, then maybe it's time to hang the keys up...
  14. 72K on all pads/rotors on my '16, all rotors warped. However, I didn't buy the truck until 72k, so I'm guessing the PO used the brakes often. I've also seen threads here of guys needing pads by 40k. Brake longevity comes down to driving style for the most part; the more times you touch the brake pedal, the faster they wear. I replaced the front pads with Raybestos semi-ceramic; they stop awesome and produce almost no dust, but do make a squeal when cold.
  15. Sorry man I wasn't questioning you, that was meant for Capt. Caution above who "needs" to convert to E85 in order to tow. Sorry for getting off topic on your thread about towing... but long story short, you'll be fine towing with your truck whatever you need to tow. Don't sweat it. Legal issues pertaining to weight only apply to CMVs anyway; last I checked, Joe Blow with a boat trailer doesn't have to pull into a weigh station... With a trailer, I prefer to be one of the slowest vehicle on the road... with the added benefit of being able to use cruise control even if there's traffic, because the right lane is wide open. Years ago, I hauled an old Lincoln on a transport trailer (just shy of 7k lbs IIRC) from Long Island up through the Green Mountains of Vermont with my '99 Sierra DC Z71, 275 hp 5.3, 3.08 rear and 32" tires. This was one of the first GM trucks with 4 wheel disc, horribly undersized and problematic such that GM went back to rear drums. The trailer surge brakes were non-existent, so I had that truck dropped down to "1" to get whatever engine braking I could downhill. Got where I needed to go, but my pads were heat-glazed, so I replaced all pads/rotors in a parking lot; that was due to the trailer brake failure, not the truck not handling it. I'd say the truck handled it great, considering what it needed to do. For anything above 4k, I prefer trailer brakes, a must above 6k. But if that truck, with a towing engine worse than the Vortec 5.7 it replaced, and marginal factory brakes could do the job, a K2 wouldn't bat an eye in the same situation. I also pulled a 9k lb. 28 ft. Bayliner all over LI that summer with that truck; slow and steady wins the race, no issues.
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