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About dukedkt442

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  1. Oil Pressure

    True, 2009 was the first year of the G2 engine. However, 5w-20 was and still advised for the 5.7 no matter whether car or truck. Even some Chrysler TSBs out on the issue... but you’re right, what be heck does Chrysler know? No, I don’t have a 2019 Chrysler product of any sort, never said I did. (Jeesh I cant believe we’re discussing Dodges so heavily). What I did say is that it is worth taking lessons learned elsewhere and applying what can be applied. You scoff and oil passage size... like someone who has never torn one apart to see them. A 5w-20 will have less of a viscosity range than the 5w-30, so pressure and flow characteristics deviate less from the mean. Enough to cause issue? AFM is such a contentious item, coupled with VVT (also driven by pressure), do you want to give it more reason to “be unhappy?” Be the guinea pig. But hey, what do the GM engineers know? Clearly not as much as armchair quarterbacks on a forum.
  2. Oil Pressure

    10 year old engine, different animal. I’ve owned all 3 modern trucks in the past 2 years, and somewhere on my computer have cam timing data for the ram and ford. Thicker oil + small passages = fluid restriction. That’s unarguable. Is GM as susceptible? I have no idea but it’s always something to consider. But hey hey I really don’t care what the hell people run in their engines, run straight kerosene. Just be aware there are always unforeseen consequences.
  3. Oil Pressure

    No experience with the 5.0, but in a 5.4 or a Ram 5.7 I have personally noticed differences in engine running with different oil viscosities, and after seeing the size of oil passages and solenoid screens, it’s easy to see why. Never tried anything but the factory oil in the Chevy.
  4. Oil Pressure

    The next question is what effect oil viscosity has on the VVT operation. On Fords and Rams, the answer is “quite a bit.” With oil acting as a hydraulic fluid, proper flow long-term is quite important.
  5. 2.7 Turbo 4 Fan Club

    Different engines, different topic. The number of those engines that regularly exceed 200k is far greater than those that don’t. It’s not like GM already doesn’t have a problem with its turbo 4s eating their own pistons, there’s been TSBs on it. A 4 cyl in a 6k will love its entire life being abused just by existing. With no real world testing yet completed, this engine’s longevity is unknown. Controlled environment lab testing is different than consumer testing.
  6. 2.7 Turbo 4 Fan Club

    Controlled environment lab tests of a completely different vehicle and engine are completely irrelevant.
  7. 2.7 Turbo 4 Fan Club

    Post back when it hits 200k.
  8. Just haul what you want and don't think twice about it. The truck isn't going to fold in half and the drivetrain isn't going to grenade. Drive sanely and you'll be fine. I routinely drop over 2k in my F150 without batting an eye, never even hits the bump stops, and been doing it for almost 160k miles. I once had almost 3k in my '17 Silverado and it did the job just fine. Stop worrying; GM's marketing departments would have you buy a 2500 just to haul a bass boat. Very few people who buy trucks ever get anywhere close to its actual limits. I'll throw this out there: my '84 S10 with a 2.8 V6 (110 hp), 5 speed, single piston front calipers and rear drums has a rated payload of 1500 lbs. Do you honestly think that ANY 2019 Silverado can only safely handle 1 human body's weight over that???? Unsafe, overweight, blah blah blah.
  9. My '14 Ram with 50k miles was far and away a better truck in every category than the 12k mile '17 Silverado (that I purchased new with 30 miles) that I traded for it. Even towed/hauled better despite worse published numbers. I have zero brand loyalty and no biases for it, I don't owe brands anything. I wouldn't call the '19 Chevy "manly", I'd call it godawful ugly. But just like mutant infants, some folks pretend not to notice if they have skin in the game. I don't like that the '19 Rams really softened the hood bulge style they'd had since '94 and I hate the giant touch screen, but it's still better than the high-cheekbones that Chevy is passing on. Pissing on Ram quality completely ignores 1) the Chevy Shake 2) garbage TC/transmission programming 3) brake booster failures 4) leaking rear window frames 5) oil consumption issues. All those rank pretty high on the "do not buy" list. My Ram got the same gas mileage as the Chevy despite 50 more hp, more weight, and a 3.91 vs a 3.42. Why? The extra balls let it run in V4 mode nearly all the time. At the end of the day it really doesn't matter because every fanboi will beat the drum why theirs is the best, like it affects them. Just buy whatcha want and what makes the best economic sense.
  10. Best cold air intake?

    Factory intakes are already "cold air", and often, aftermarket "cold air intakes" draw warmer air. What really matters is intake air temperature; certain scanners/tuners can show you this. Hi-flow filters, by definition, allow more particulate into the engine. The restriction is still the throttle body. I trust dyno results showing positive results published by the manufacturer of the product itself as much as I trust a Taco Bell fart. If you value your engine long-term (I don't mean 50-100k miles, I mean 200-300k miles as I run my vehicles), then a hi-flow filter and "CAI" is the last thing I'll add to it. Opening up the exhaust will do much more (which actually is designed to be constricted in the interest of quiet). But hey, if you want to piss away money for that "awesome intake sound" up front and at every fill-up... go for it. Better gains are to be had with an exhaust and a tune.
  11. Duct tape, rope, bone saws, pliers, hefty bags, bleach, and towels. Lots of towels.
  12. 3.08 Gear Ratio for Towing?

    Specs should always be taken with a grain of salt. Driver ability is the ultimate limiting factor in most cases, which is why modern limits are grossly underrated. I promise my '17 Silverado could haul FAR more than my '84 S10, despite the sticker saying the difference is only a human body weight... That being said, twice a month 7500 lb towing with a 3.08 or even a 3.42 would definitely wear out the truck faster than with a steeper rear gear. 3.73 would be the ticket, but a 2500 would do it better. Take into account where the towing is (flatland, mountains, ocean beaches).
  13. What I "hated?" -the radio/BT thing. -the seatbelt rattle While minor, the every-day occurrence was mind-numbing. What I hated enough to ditch it? -Chevy Shake -TC shudder despite numerous reflashes... work for a few hundred miles, and adaptation killed it -headlight fell out of truck by 10k miles on highway -bed lengths were slightly different, preventing tailgate from closing square and proper -frame quality... factory "goo" was gone by 12k miles, in its place: surface rust. after 6 months and 12k miles its frame was in worse condition than my '84 GMC (that I have). Honest. What I enjoyed? (love is a strong word) -comfort (heated front bench seat) -mpg (22mpg on a 1300 mile trip... calculated and averaged) -engine smoothness (not to be confused with transmission smoothness
  14. Good luck with the Durango, not so much from a brand point of view, but from a change-in-vehicle-type view. If the bed isn't needed, you'll appreciate the smaller size. In the last 2 years, I've owned Chevy, Ram and Ford. Bought a '17 Silverado DCSB Z71, and after numerous TC issues, vibration issues, the passenger headlight falling out of the truck on the way back from Florida (I'm in NY), and the sides of the BED being 1/4" different lengths (thereby not letting the tailgate open/shut without forcing the handle), I got rid of it after 12k miles for a '14 Ram Laramie CC with 50k. I LOVED that truck; rode far better than any truck I've ever owned, and with the coil springs, still easily towed anything I needed to, as well as hauling 2k lbs of cement bags without issue (only 500 lbs more than my '84 S10 is rated to haul). Took it to the Outer Banks twice in the 15k I put on it, scored the same mpg as the Chevy (despite having 50 more hp and a 3.92 rear instead of a 3.55), had far better build quality both inside and out, but still had that nagging chassis vibration. At the end of the day, frames are just getting too damn stiff for the roads and cylinder shut-down harmonics (especially with larger cabs), and the trucks vibrate like a taught guitar spring. It proved too much for me and I sold it for what I bought it for, and bought an '04 F150 supercrew FX4 with 140k 15 months ago (looks brand new). The Ford is definitely the worst mechanically of the bunch (by 150k miles, I had the cams out in my shop for a complete timing system rebuild: chains, phasers, cam followers, lash adjusters, guides, tensioners, oil pump, P/S pump... it is a 5.4 3 valve, afterall) and the 4 speed automatic feels ANCIENT by comparison to the Ram's perfect ZF 8 speed, but it doesn't vibrate like the other two. I miss driving a new truck, but I sure don't miss paying for it.
  15. If I could do it over again, I would never have bought my brand new '17 Silverado back in December, I would have searched harder for a "gently used" truck (which is what I've since traded that '17 Silverado in on), or paid more for a Duramax Colorado CCLB (since I'll wind up paying that amount anyway after losing money on my Silverado). The Colorado transmission is the same that was in my '08 BMW and to me has been proven, the fit and finish seems better, and they are just all around smoother a vehicle. Too bad GM prices them at full size truck prices, they don't want to take money away from the cash cow K2 (even though it is losing market share).

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