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Bangback

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Bangback last won the day on November 21 2017

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    2017 Suburban Premier

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  1. Could you move the LED board over from your broken taillight? Can the new taillight be disassembled to do this?
  2. Can you flip the shank upside to drop it lower then remount the ball?
  3. I think it depends on the manufacturer of your weight distribution system. I use the Equalizer system and I believe they recommend that the trailer should be about level with the ground (0 degree pitch) once mounted on the hitchball. In my opinion you should get a shank that is lower so you can achieve this.
  4. I haven't, however, I've read that you can't have a fast charging setup with 3 coils. The original GM version of the charger was a single coil, whereas the 2018 version is a 3 coil version, which can provide a good interface for the coils and be more lenient on having a good position to deliver the maximum charge possible. Perhaps they did this to address all the complaints from the single coil version about people not being able to find the "sweet spot" on the charging pad for the phone to stay charging? I guess what I'm trying to say is that even if you have a fast charging custom setup with the proper power hookup, if the phone isn't exactly aligned for that single coil, you might not see full advantage of the faster charging? I might be wrong about fast chargers only being single coil, but I don't think I've seen a fast charger yet that is 3 coil? On my other wireless chargers I've used at home, I've found that if you don't have a high enough powered USB power supply, the pad can act finicky. Even if your car adapter says 2.1A, a lot of them aren't right and don't truly put out that power. You might want to test your current with a amperage tester or perhaps try another power source, which could help you with the slow charge issue?
  5. I’ve had issues in the past on my other cars where mice have gotten into system and died or have tried to build a nest in the blower motor. When that happens, it creates an imbalance in the blower and it makes a low frequency rumble. It’s probably not what you have, but you never know...
  6. Good to know that the new design has 3 coils! That should make it less critical as to where to place the phone for the optimal charging position. I haven't done any testing yet with charge times with the new charger. I do have the latest version of iOS on the iPhone X, which should have 7.5W wireless charging enabled. I could try to capture some charging times, but won't know for sure what the actual voltage and wattage coming in is. In about 10 minutes or less on a short drive I took, the phone went from 70% to 73%, from what I've seen so far.
  7. Make sure your ignition is off as well as the radio. Once the red piece is off, look deep within the connector and you will see white tabs over the tops of the metal pins, from looking into the end of the plug where the charging module pins plug in. Gently take your precision flathead screwdriver and lift up a little bit on the white tab. The wire should now easily pull out from the back of the connector. It shouldn't take too much force. If it doesn't easily come out, you may not have the white tab lifted high enough. NOTE when you remove the wire, remember how the metal crimp pin is oriented in the old plug. You will be plugging into the new connector with this same orientation. Also try not to touch the wires together and short anything out, just in case there is power. Temporarily taping them apart so they don't touch isn't a bad idea. You will then see the "nub" on the metal piece that rtreptow7 referred to earlier. It is shown in the picture below of the metal crimp pin, on the top side. This needs to be compressed a little bit with pliers or use your flathead screwdriver to press in the nub. If you don't press this in, it will be very difficult to slide the metal piece into the new plug. The picture shown of the metal crimped wire is the correct orientation as if you are looking straight down from the top of the connector. This "nub" will look like it's on the right side of the pin when placed into the new connector. Again, on the new connector, I entirely removed the red end piece for installation. Just lift the sides of the red piece with the screwdriver and it will pop right off. After you press in the "nub" on metal crimp pin, just slide it in, and listen for an audible "click". Check the end of the connector and you should see the metal pin go all the way to the back of the new plug. Do this for all 3 wires, make sure you have the colors in the right spots, then put the red piece back on the end. The new module is an exact fit to where the old module is. It bolts right on with the same screws. Plug your new connector in and test. It should now work! Good luck!
  8. The old connector is shown here, which is white with a red component. First note the color of the wires and which slots they are in. Don't pay attention to the bars on the connector. They are on different sides from the old connector to the new connector, and they will just confuse you. Just pay attention to where the push lever is on top of the connector and note that the wires are in the left 3 holes. They will go in the same left three holes on the new connector, with the push lever on top. First thing you will want to do is to remove the red plastic piece. I used a small flathead precision screwdriver. Just push on the middle red tab and push it outward. It will take some force, but the piece should slowly slide out, as seen in the pictures below.
  9. Here is the connector from Mouser, 571-2035363-4 , for the new unit. This is needed for the new charging module. The old plug will not fit at all into the new module, so this new connector is needed. When it arrives from Mouser, all the pieces are attached. I personally found it easier installing the wires into the new connector with the big red piece off the end removed. To do that, simply use a small flathead screwdriver and carefully pry up the sides. It will come right off.
  10. Thanks to everyone and rtreptow7 for doing the research and legwork on getting the part numbers for the new 2018 charging module and the associated connector part with Mouser. I finally got my module today, and will include some additional pictures to complement the ones rtreptow7 posted. Box of the module, and the module itself:
  11. It's not just the pad. There's an incompatibility with the MY 17 and earlier chargers. There is a new MY 18 charger that is compatible with the new iPhones. The other thread is below:
  12. Here is the FCC filing information for this module, including a user manual and photographs of the inside: https://fccid.io/BEJWC900A05
  13. I have a similar issue on my '17 Suburban. Took out the magnet and screen as well. Mine will usually work fine when i put it on and take it off the wireless charger, but sometimes it doesn't respond. When then happens, I plug in the lighting cable for a second, then after that, it seems to work OK again, being able to wirelessly charge after that. Others have had the same issue, and when they plug their cable in, it doesn't fix it. The better solution is to use the 2018 module, once people figure out if it works with pre 2018 models, with the proper harness also. My 9 rib rubber liner seems to work OK with the 2017 charger without the magnet/screen, but a 10 rib liner would give more flexibility for phone placement.
  14. I'm sure mine will start acting like yours after a while! I'm so frustrated that I'm almost at the point of taking out the whole GM unit, and putting a cheap $10 Qi charger in there and just hooking it up to USB.
  15. Here is a better picture of the back. Only 9 ribs. You would think that if they revised a part, that it would have a different part number. If they are using the same part number as the old 9 rib rubber piece, it is going to be difficult to try to locate the new 10 rib batch.
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