bamafan76

My “11 Silverado LT does not have Bluetooth and want to add a VCIM with Bluetooth. My question is my current VCIM has only one plug and the VCIM with Bluetooth I’ve seen on EBay has 3. Does this simply mean that 2 of the plugs will have nothing plugged in once installed? I don’t see additional plugs under the dash not being used. Thanks in advance.

Weeks back while running a line for my rear camera install, I noticed water puddled on both sides of my front door sills. No sunroof, windshield was replaced back in May but didn’t think that was the issue as there was no evidence of water in kick panel areas, etc. I used the hose over the cab and saw water coming in from the bottom of the door gasket. I ordered a replacement for both sides, replaced, and after using the hose, drive thru car wash, and about 3” of rain yesterday, no leaks! Although the gaskets didn’t show signs of wear, damage, I guess age played its role. Maybe this will help some who have experienced find resolution. 2011 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Extended Cab Driver Side Body Mounted Door Weatherstrip Seal

My million dollar question is how to verify? Does it need to be jacked up, on the ground, any special tools needed? I’m mechanically inclined and not afraid to tackle much (I changed my rear diff fluid, transmission drain and fill with filter change, and front/rear shocks a week or two ago). I’m just not as familiar with ball joints and tie rods but will be soon!

Makes sense. With it only having 77k miles, the carfax not showing and suspension work done when I bought it, I’d guess the ball joints have never been replaced. But, I do have the cast iron arms, can I go with the aluminum without changing the upper arms to aluminum? I looked on gm parts website and didn’t see the cast iron arm listed.

Can I just replace the lower ball joint instead of replacing the control arm?

I appreciate the news as disappointing it is. It’s a hard pill to swallow but I’ll just choose not to bring my business there again. The silver lining is learning a ball joint replacement may be in my future (any brand suggestions would be appreciated!), and then I’ll try and find somewhere else to get an alignment. Are there specific measurements I can ask for? I can provide more details on my truck if needed to obtain that information. Another question, is an all wheel alignment necessary or just a front end? I do have a 2wd if that helps. Thanks again everyone!

Thanks for the information. Would a shop offer a refund if not satisfied with an alignment? If they didn’t do much to begin with, I’d be reluctant to let them try again. It’s my first time using NTB, Firestone was my other option, or Goodyear.

im not all that familiar with checking ball joints. How are you able to determine the passenger side camber concern, is it the -.10 and -.66 final numbers? I bought the truck used in May, it only has 77k miles on it one owner. The tires are the stock 17”, and I’ve not noticed any wear on them. I also don’t feel any shake/vibration when driving. The alignment was done at NTB, not sure if that helps. I also noticed that the paperwork says Crew Cab, I have an extended cab and standard bed.

Last weekend I changed the front and rear struts/shocks as well as the sway bar links and figured I’d take it in for an all-wheel alignment. I’m not as familiar with interpreting the alignment report and figured I’d come here to see what others think, good, bad, indifferent. image2023-10-20-100306.pdf

The dash for my Silverado is listed at $450ish. I just bought and received the Dorman extension panel for $65ish from Amazon.

Thanks dna9656 and newdude for your additional assistance. I’m thinking it happened more recent as the airbag recall was done and the evaporator sensor replaced both within the last two months. I ordered the smaller extension trim panel since mine is now pretty bad, and also ordered the two piece Dashskin since paying approximately $500 for a new dash seemed a bit much for a used, seldom driven truck.

Thanks, but I used GMpartsdirect which is where my first picture came from and couldn’t find where it attached to so I came here to ask all of you more experienced folks.

Here they are. After I removed it again, I see where some are tied to the main dash itself, the other are a part of another plastic framing of some sort.

My apologies for not being precise as I’m not in need of the clips. When you remove the panel, you can see into the dash and where those clips would sit when the trim is reinstalled. Some of those locations are missing so the clips have no where to hold it to the dash. I’m looking to see if that’s a part that can also be replaced.

I like many have the cracked dash on my recently purchased ‘11 Silverado. While removing the Instrument Panel Extension Trim Panel to see why it didn’t seem to be sitting correctly, I noticed the frame? It attaches to with clips was also missing some of the slots for the clips to sit in. Does anyone know what this frame is, how easy/hard to replace, or other options to repair?

Today I did some things to the truck, one was to install the cabin air filter retro kit. To my surprise, I did not see where I could install it as there was no cut out area like shown in the instructions. I have the manual controls, no dual zone or automatic controls, I guess it makes a difference.

As an update, I got the truck back today and no problems with the AC on the 2 hour ride home. They replaced (which is what I expected based on research) the evaporator temp sensor.

Is there a scan tool recommendation that also won’t break the bank?

Thanks for the replies. The dealership I bought it from is making it right even though it was a “as is” purchase by taking a look at it and if they can’t resolve will send it to Chevy dealership. I’ll update on their findings once I get it back.

Hello again! After a couple year hiatus, I’m back to GM after purchasing a 2011 Silverado 4.8L V8. It is a one owner, 76k miles, overall great condition. It has the common issues, a crack or two dashboard and it had code P0573 when I bought it which I’ll fix. What I didn’t know until my 2 hour drive back home was an AC issue. After about 30-45 minutes into the drive, the air flow tremendously decreased despite turning the fan on high. I turned it off for about 10 min., turned it back on and worked a bit more and then did t again. When I got home I immediately popped the hood, saw the accumulator frozen over. I haven’t checked pressure, but the compressor does cycle. I also read it could be the evaporator temperature switch. I also found it odd there is no cabin air filter which also makes me wonder if the evaporator is dirty. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

I purchased a new (dealer demo with 2,300 miles)2019 Suburban this past December. I didn’t really notice the paint job on the back hatch and around passenger taillight until after giving her 1st paint sealant. Part of me is wondering if this in fact the factory paint job that has imperfections or did the dealer have damage to it before and fixed it before they sold it. The Carfax from the dealer shows no reports of damage/repair. Pictures are for second opinions. Thanks!

As an update, I used the chat option on the GMC website and requested a build sheet for my 2016 Sierra and they emailed it to me with no problem.