Shredder15

Agree it should come that way. I worked to find the best combo Of above factory while keeping factory ride. Accomplished both with 2” under strut only TGC level kit and 2.25” block in the rear. Love the slight height difference from stock.

Got it from an off road store. Yes it’s a Readylift 2.25” block, which the salesperson referred to as a plus one.

I had an add a leaf from a different company that was very good. It raised the rear 1 1/4”. FYI, the front had a TGC 2.5” level in this pic. I eventually went to a 2” level and 1” rear block because I didn’t like the loss of factory ride and decreased range level of travel in the front at 2.5”. The increased clearance I ended up with is exactly what I wanted and I’m happy with the setup with the bigger LTZ stock wheels and tires.

After installing a Top Gun Customz 2.5” front level and an add a leaf in the rear, I’m taking the front back down to only 1” today. Reason is the ride up front bangs around more than I like for a truck with only 22k, and I believe GMC-AT who’s tried many level combos and recommends not going over 1.5” (and doing so only with under strut plates). If the rake is too much I’ll also remove the add a leaf but I’m about to haul a 4K lb trailer 1000 mi so I may hold off on the add a leaf removal. I really like the stance but the ride and other guys’ issues with ball joints and other wear have pointed me toward a Zone 1.5” body lift—if I want to get back to this look after removing most of the front leveling kit. Anyone else have ride quality issues resolved by using less of a leveling kit?

All stock with 2.5” TG Customz level in front and add a leaf in rear. Minor issue: some banging up front on rough roads, which I think is due to UCA hitting metal stop lightly. May remove 1.5” of the level and go to 1.5” zone body lift but the rake might require the add a leaf to come off.

I have a 2015 Z71 Crew with the Top Gun 2.5" leveling kit, and it's been aligned since install. I also have an add a leaf on the rear, but all else is standard. The rake and height are perfect, IMHO, but on uneven pavement there's an annoying noise up front coming from what I'm pretty sure is the struts. The TG kit has two leveling plates on bottom and one ring on top of the strut to get the full 2.5". I've also done the 1.5" version with one plate on bottom and the ring and had approximately the same noises from the strut. Do you think I'd lose the noise if I only do the plates on bottom (only one set of plates and no ring, which would be only a 1" front level)? I think I'll then have to remove the add a leaf and do a zone 1.5" body lift to get back to where I am. But I want the factory ride back.

A few have asked recently but I haven't seen any answers. Anyone with a '15 had luck getting data out of the front USBs?

Yes I was pleasantly surprised I didn't need to order that expensive part separately. Believe it was the console assembly, 2 trim pieces (L and R), front bracket and top "plate" as folks have called it, which includes cup holders, and you need to get the trim right on the plate so it matches your truck. I used GM parts direct and was very happy with their service. I wanted to make sure the console I was ordering had the white stitching and the rep went back to the warehouse, took pics of the one I was about to order, and emailed them to me. Received it all in a couple days.

Great, thanks for the encouragement. Did you put both bottom brackets under each shock for the full 2.5"? I was surprised to find out the kit comes with 4. Looks like a bit of a stretch in the TG product pics and stacking two doesn't look as solid. Especially when the ReadyLift gives you 2.25" with only one under each shock (but probably more $$). I think that most just want the height and don't care.

I'm about to purchase a Top Gun Customz 2.5" leveling kit and 1.5" add a leaf for my '15 Silverado. Saw it on Magstar's truck that came out perfect so the heights aren't the issue. What I'm trying to determine is if it's worth paying someone else to do the labor--$300 for the leveling kit and another $150 for the add a leaf, both matching quotes from nearby 4x4 shops. The $300 does include an alignment, btw. I'm reasonably mechanically inclined and for half that can buy a jack, stands and wrenches to do the job. Plus I have a torque wrench and sometimes doubt that shops pay attention to torque settings for such work. YouTube is loaded with videos on how to do it all. Anyone have helpful words to offer on this...I'd appreciate it.

Mine is a 2015 so I don't think I ever had car play. As difficult as it's been trying to get the front USBs working with seemingly logical solutions and non-delco cables from the HMI to the front USBs (something I tried), it doesn't surprise me that there are capabilities like Car play that folks can't conquer. I'll look forward to prying off the passenger side and looking at those fuses. I had a Nissan truck in college 20 yrs ago and those fuses were a LOT easier to read if they were blown or not, unless I'm reading them wrong.

Is that delco cable something dealers carry, or an online-only purchase? I tried a mini USB trimmed in the back of the triple USB and still only get charging capability. Also, I used the existing front cig lighter for constant power but it touched the ground while the wire was stripped. Can't find a blown fuse and these fuse panels are a pain to interpret. Now my LED doesn't work, even though I spliced the brown/white wire to that same front cig lighter, which makes me wonder if I just zapped the fuse. Anyone have any idea which fuse to check (maybe passenger side)? Checked most of the driver side fuses and they look ok, even though they are hard to read IMHO. Otherwise I'm thrilled with a successful mod.

Yes the wires were all the same except for the white/brown wire, which is the LED light according to other posts. That's the one I ran to the cig lighter up front, but the red/black up front came in contact while I was working on it and may have blown the fuse. And the fuse diagram is ridiculous and I couldn't find a blown fuse anyway.

Yes I used the old main plug that plugs into the truck under the passenger seat and spliced all wires to that. But I also spliced a salvaged 6-wire USB harness into the new wire bundle (off the 6-wire that goes to the interior console USB set) and ran it to the front USBs. I'm thinking about buying a regular male USB to plug in to the glove box (that used to play music) and running that to the mini USB plug in behind the front 3 USB set, thereby not messing with the HMI adapters.