Everything posted by paauto
I added an orange LED in my speedo cluster that lights up when I'm in 4WD. I tapped into the wires that feed the LED on the 2/4WD dial selector. The white wire in the factory harness is + and the brown/black wire is -. The "Transfer Case Control Module" closes the ground circuit when in 4 Hi and allows the LED on the factory dial to illuminate. I simply piggybacked off of this. I have pictures of the whole installation and will post a link to them once I have my kid show me how to do it. I also have a blue LED on the opposite side to indicate when my light bar is on (I turn it on/off with a pneumatic foot switch under the carpet).
I did a bit more research and changed the wiring for the 4x4 indicator light so it is completely off even when the dusk sensor is on. I tapped into the Transfer Case Control Module - which is right above the gas pedal on the firewall. There are three connectors that plug into it. The top connector is the one you want. I pulled that connector out and wire tapped into the yellow/white stripped wire (see photo for exact wire) and connected that to the orange dash LED. I connected the ground from the orange LED to the body. I can report it works perfectly. When in 4x4, the LED is on and when in 2wd it is completely off (no more faint glow at night when the dusk sensor is on). No error codes. The yellow/white wire that I tapped into is the feed for the factory 4x4 indicator in the DIC.
Here’s a write up and a link to photos of the installation of my CTS2 Edge, Kleinn train horn, Wolo horn as well as additional lighting on the truck. I’ve also included parts I used and where I sourced them. In the link are several PDFs, including an electrical schematic I drew up. I’m not an EE, so please pardon my drawing. www.paauto.weebly.com I mounted the CTS2 Edge in the center console using a faceplate I bought from Proformance Diesel for $45. I sprayed it matte black and then cleared it with satin. You don’t need to paint it, but the raw plastic looks out of place unpainted in my opinion. I added oil and differential temperature probes to feed the CTS2. Also added a pressure transducer to monitor the pressure in my on-board air tank (more below). I installed the oil temp probe on my AmsOil dual bypass system. On the Proformance console you’ll notice two additional buttons that I added. The left one is for the Kleinn train horn. The right one is for the light bar on the grille. Both of these buttons trigger relays on the Bussmann block under the hood and are “ignition on” only. I added the up fitter module to the junction box under the dash in order to tap into the “ignition on” feed. See attached PDF for details on the up fitter module and the pins/wires needed to be purchased with it. You can get these parts from GM. For the light bar, I also installed a pneumatic floor switch that I put under the carpet behind the emergency brake. It’s completely out of site and works like an old school high beam floor switch. I bought the parts from PresAir (www.senasys.com). The foot pedal is B350BA ($15) and the switch it controls is TVA111A ($20). You can see in the attached schematic that I wired the pneumatic switch in series to the console switch such that the console switch serves as a master switch for my stock horn to a Wolo on demand air horn. I built a bracket and mounted the horn and a waterproof box to house the compressor and relay behind the front bumper (see picture) using the two existing bolts for the bumper. The box is from Home Depot. Note the clear plastic tube coming out of the box. It goes into the engine compartment and allows the box to breath b/c the on-demand compressor draws a vacuum and otherwise will starve itself (not work) without a vent. I wanted a louder horn so I took the plunge and installed a Kleinn HDKIT-630 with an on-board air system. I made a few modifications. I moved the relay from the compressor to under the hood (no way that thing would survive a winter under the truck in Pittsburgh!) and swapped it for a Hella waterproof relay. Also, I added a pressure transducer to feed the CTS2 so I can monitor tank pressure within the cab. It’s an awesome toy (it’ll set car alarms off). The button on the Proformance console controls it. For exterior lighting, I added Rigid led rock lights under the running boards (two on each) and under the back bed as well as floods pointing backwards. I will also be adding flush mount floods to the front bumper air dam (haven’t done it yet). Also put LEDs in the bed and in my tool box in the bed. Lastly, I added an under hood light (one of the Rigid rock lights) and a switch. For the rear facing floods, I hung them off the hitch frame through the large access holes. I needed to make four brackets to provide a solid base to mount them b/c the holes are so big. I made these from bar steel, primed, painted and then undercoated them. I tapped into the dome light feed so when I unlock the truck the running board lights and the light under the bed comes on. I connected the rear floods & the rock lights and the front floods to the CTS2 switch module. Switch 1 controls the front floods and switch 2 controls the running board lights and the rear facing floods. I relocated my spare to my bed and have it lashed down with an N-Fab kit. That allowed me to remove the spare tire winch and free up that space to mount a waterproof box (Home Depot). I simply used the bolt that held the winch in place to hold the box (see pictures). I mounted a three gang relay block (Painless Performance #30107 – bought from Summit Racing) and a four fuse block (Painless Performance #30002 – bought from Summit Racing) in this box. I put a Rigid light on the lid as well to shine directly down from where the spare tire used to be mounted. I tapped into the trailer harness for power (30 amp / always powered) for the rear box. As discussed above, I tapped into the dome light feed. It’s on the back of the junction box under the dash – kind of a PITA to access. I had to remove the junction box from the floor, then disconnect the module and then find the wire and tap into it. You guys would know that the dome light fades up and down instead of turning on and off instantly (which I think is accomplished by the computer rapidly turning the light on and off in succession). This fade effect played havoc with a standard relay – it would chatter loudly on & off until the dome was fully powered on or off (about 3 seconds). To overcome, I used a Beuler BU508TD adjustable time delay relay (see PDF). This is a really cool product – it essentially holds the trigger closed (on) for an adjustable amount of time after power is removed. I set it to about 5 seconds. That way once the dome light starts to spool up, it triggers the relay and the relay stays closed, thereby powering the running board lights and eliminating the chatter. For power distribution under the hood, I went with a Bussmann 15303-5. This thing gives you five relay slots and 10 fuse slots. It can handle 80 amps. You have to buy the relays and all the fittings (terminals, plugs and bushings) separately (see attached PDF). You can purchase from Waytek - www.waytekwire.com and/or on Amazon. For my pigtail connections, I used MSD Ignition Deutsch waterproof connectors, which I bought from Summit Racing. I wrapped everything in convoluted tubing. Lastly, I bought a couple of cans of Nox-Rust X-121B from Daubert Chemical Company (www.daubertchemical.com) to re-spray areas where I rubbed that nasty wax coating off as I was crawling around hooking all this stuff off. I believe this is the same stuff that’s applied at the factory to the frame. So, that’s how I wasted a lot of time and money in August!
I bought a repair kit from them for $117 - included the twin tube gun, one set of product (twin tubes totaling ~20 oz) and conditioner. I had drilled holes in the bed for a spare tire harness and subsequently relocated it so I wanted to repair the original holes. To repair, I used my angle grinder to grind down some of the original liner around the holes then filled them with JB Weld. I then used the Ultimate Linings kit to repair the liner. Still work in process - just laid it down this afternoon. It cured up quickly (10 minutes, but still tacky). I'll try to post some pics when I finish it up and its fully cured.
I believe it is # 4 in the attached link, but may be # 6. https://www.gmpartscenter.net/auto-parts/2017/gmc/sierra-2500-hd/denali-trim/6-6l-v8-diesel-engine/body-cat/interior-trim-rear-door-scat
Or both!! I put a train horn on with its own button in the center console and an airhorn up front behind the front bumper that is activated by the steering wheel pad. Both are connected up to my onboard air tank. One benefit is the if the alarm goes off, it is loud!
Yes, the dealers have the ability to change the TPMS thresholds. But, it is difficult if not impossible to find one that will do it due to liability concerns. I tried and couldn't find one to change it. I ended up buying a Mongoose Pro interface and a subscription to the GM programming software and did it myself. Very easy to do. The TPMS thresholds are in the BCM module. With the GM software, I have full functionality to program and update all modules in the truck. Interesting though that GM recently added a restriction for the number of times the modules can be re-programmed using the subscription for a specific VIN. I think this is so GM can determine if performance tunes have been dropped in. I think the ECM retains something like 20 or 30 of the last programs dropped in it, so you would have to reflash that many times to clear the performance tune. So, this is GM's way of cracking down I suppose.
Here's a photo of my homemade custom bracket. I'm in the process of priming/painting/undercoating it and will post a pic shortly of the final beast.
Yep - sounds exactly like my predicament although i did have the factory boards and brackets to work with. Never heard back from Westin so I got the angle grinder w/ a cutoff wheel out and modified the factory bracket along with the Westin bracket - Frankenstein'd it!. I had a local guy weld it up for me on Thursday. I need to clean it up and paint it and will post a pic before i throw it on the truck.
I bought the same nerf bars / drop steps for my '17 HD. Purchased directly from Westin a few weeks ago. First off, the installation instructions are just plain wrong. The diagrams and illustrations are inconsistent as it relates to references to part numbers and how & where to install the brackets. To top it off, the brackets are also mis-tabled. It's as if someone purposely put the wrong labels on the brackets to get their jollies. I tossed the instructions and went by the seat of my pants. First thing I did was to pull the factory boards off. No need to drop the DEF tank to remove the two front brackets on the passenger side. As explained in earlier posts, they're a different design than the other factory brackets. Anyway, installation of the driver side Westin board was straight forward. Passenger side not so much. There is no way any of the Westin brackets will fit next to the DEF tank, even if you took it off. I sent a note to Westin customer service to see if there is a different bracket for the HD. Haven't heard back yet. If they don't offer a solution, I believe i can cut up the factory and Westin brackets and weld a custom one together.
Had some spare time and decided to Dynamat the entire interior of my truck. I removed the seats, center console, B & C pillar covers and rear cab factory liner. I had done the doors a few weeks ago when I upgraded the speakers. Dynamated all exposed sheet metal then put Dynaliner down. While apart, I pulled the Bose sub out and replaced it with a Pioneer powered sub. Still need to get the front seats and console back in and then try it out. Was thinking about dropping the headliner and doing the roof, but need to get the truck back on the road. Here's a pic of the back of the cab. More pics at paauto.weebly.com - here you can see the pneumatic foot switch i installed on the dead pedal to control my light bar. Also a pic of my dog helping me.
I finally got around to adding a 10k ohm resistor to the positive feed for the new LED. Here was the issue. When the dusk sensor kicks in it sends 5 volts to the positive lead (the white lead) in the transfer case shift knob harness. Even if the knob is in 2HI, the ground circuit for the 4HI indicator closes and allows current to flow. I suppose this is to provide some backlighting in the factory knob. Anyway, this was dimly lighting up my new LED even if in 2HI at night. The 10k ohm resistor reduces the current, significantly dimming the LED at night in 2HI. When in 4HI, all is good as the system sends 14 volts which allows the new LED to light brightly.
Thanks! Bought thru an online GM parts store - can't remember which one. It's the Intellihaul system. I tried the front camera on the grill at first but it wasn't giving good visibility right in front of the truck, that's why I lowered it. I'm in PA and we don't have front plates, so I was able to modify the front bumper plate filler and install the camera there. Kinda of a PITA to install, but I learned a lot of tricks that will help the next guy. I'll write them up when i have time.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 108 Members, 0 Anonymous, 747 Guests (See full list)
- Dock Rocker
- Mike GMC
- Jason Gullotta
- Brain Candle
- Turd Ferguson
- Lynn Mowery
- David Stevens