Everything posted by paauto
Here's a link to a site that provides wheel size information by make, model and year. You can use it to compare sizes from different years. https://www.wheel-size.com/size/gmc/sierra-2500/2017/
You might want to try some electric tape on the bottom portion of the camera and see if that helps block the tailgate.
Your 2019 may already have the updated software in it. You can check what you have by going to this GM website and inputting your VIN. Navigate to "Radio Controls" and see what you find. https://tis2web.service.gm.com/tis2web/ Your truck should have the 84396836 update in it (see the second PDF below to get a sense of what you're looking for - this is a screenshot of my truck's current radio calibrations using the website above). If your truck doesn't have this update, take it back to the dealer and have them flash the radio for this update. The attached bulletin is for 2017-2018 trucks to address the problem. You may want to show them this. 17-NA-269.pdf Radio Controls.pdf
I added switches to turn the functionality on/off for "lights on in mirror when in reverse" and "fogs on with high beams". Here's the wiring diagram (click on the "Truck Wiring.pdf" right above the picture below) and a picture of where I placed the switches. In Pennsylvania, when they do your annual state inspection they check to make sure the fog lights go off when the high beams are on. So, having the switch makes life a lot easier. As to the comment regarding the diode, I would recommend using one. Otherwise, you may inadvertently energize the backup light relay when the cargo lamp switch is turned on. Truck Wiring.pdf
The programming software is from GM (same system the dealer uses). The link to ACDelco is below. You will need a subscription to the Vehicle Programming Software for one VIN (24 months for a total of $40). This will allow you to update all the modules in your truck, modify the tire pressure thresholds, easily add/remove keys, and add the keyless entry pad to the truck. Regarding the modules in the truck, GM updates them occasionally to address customer complaints or improve functionality. It's very easy to scroll through each module and figure out if the truck has the latest software (I did that for the screen brightness as well as for the ECM/TCM updates). It's a simple process to update modules. Only takes a few minutes per module, depending on internet speeds. Also available are subscriptions to diagnostics (GDS2) and the shop manual for the truck. These are an additional cost to the $40 for the Programming Software. One interesting and kind of odd thing - if you want to add or delete a remote transmitter, you do that through GDS2 and not through the Vehicle Programming Software. I have no idea why, but it took me time to figure that out. Here's the link to the software: https://www.acdelcotds.com/subscriptions# The catch to all of this is you need to have an interface to go between your PC and the OBD. I purchased an interface from Drew Technologies (link below). You'll want the MongoosePro II for GM. It's a bit pricey at $495, but if you are going to be doing your own work on the truck (Programming or Diagnostics) it's great to have. You'll need a modern/up to date Windows-based computer and a solid internet connection. I program my truck with a Dell laptop that's on WiFi. Never had a problem. http://www.drewtech.com/mongoose/gm2.html Hope that helps.
I applied the fix to mine the other day and it fixed it 100%. It's now the way it should be. I have a subscription to the programming software and was adding a new key and transmitter for the truck and while I was in there I was poking around for module updates and came across it.
Only thing is some premature tire wear. That said, doubt there is any. You would definitely have known because the front end would have been bucking like a bronco on dry roads if you were turning significantly enough to worry. You're all good.
Sounds like you were going straight most of the time, so no biggie. I've done the same thing for that number of miles on the highway. Never could figure out why GM didn't put an indicator on the dash so I put an orange LED in (wired into the transfer case control module) so I know if I'm in 4wd.
I had that tick and then changed to full synthetic oil and it went away (25,000 miles ago). 38,000 miles on mine now and all is good. BTW, if you have some time to kill (45 min) watch this Gale Banks video.
Very easy. Here's a link to the parts schematic to give you some perspective. https://www.gmpartscenter.net/auto-parts/2017/gmc/sierra-2500-hd/denali-trim/6-6l-v8-diesel-engine/body-cat/center-console-scat First, you need to remove the top of the console - this is part#1 in the first picture in the link and comes out as a complete unit. The best way is to open the latched storage cover and unsnap the light inside and move it to the side. No need to disconnect the wires or anything. Then take a trim tool (not a screw driver, or you'll scratch it) and part #1 off by inserting the tool between the vinyl and plastic in the area where the lid to the storage box closes down on the vinyl base. You need to do it on both sides. There are a series of metal clips that hold part #1 to the base of the console. Start working from the back to the front, alternating sides. The first time it may take a bit of cajoling to free things up, but it'll come. Note that the wires to the outlets and plugs are still connected. Your call whether you need to disconnect all of that or not, depending on what you are doing. Now, scroll down to the bottom picture in the link. you will see two screws that hold part #1 into bracket #2 in the schematic. Remove those. There are two covers on the sides at the back of the console near the floor. Remove the covers then remove the bolts that connect to the bracket labeled #4. There are also two bolts under the rubber mat in the main storage compartment that need removed - they bolt into bracket #3. That should do it.
New bracket. Notice there is about 1/4 inch of clearance now between the lower line and frame. The factory bracket is a flimsy piece of plastic with a push pin holding it to the radiator support. This product uses stainless bolt and nut to securely pull the lines against the radiator support. The directions that come with the Deviant product are very clear.
I installed the new bracket today. Very easy and it holds the line about a 1/4 of an inch off the bracket. Here is a picture of truck with the grille off of it. The factory bracket is in the lower left corner of the picture.
To check on your own, you may want to remove the horizontal plastic fascia cover inside the hood. Will need to pry out the dozen or so push pin rivets and then lift the cover off (use a flat blade screw driver to lift the middle portion up, then use a pickle fork trim tool to pry the body of it up). Once you remove that fascia, you should have good visibility down between the radiator and grille. The potential rubbing would be on the left side as you look down (see pics in posts above). I noticed the issue in the summer on mine, when someone else on a different forum posted the issue. I put a piece of rubber hose between the frame bracket and pipe to protect it. I since purchased a kit from Deviant https://www.deviantraceparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=78400 which I haven't installed yet (too cold in Pittsburgh recently) to fix it.
I added an orange LED in my speedo cluster that lights up when I'm in 4WD. I tapped into the wires that feed the LED on the 2/4WD dial selector. The white wire in the factory harness is + and the brown/black wire is -. The "Transfer Case Control Module" closes the ground circuit when in 4 Hi and allows the LED on the factory dial to illuminate. I simply piggybacked off of this. I have pictures of the whole installation and will post a link to them once I have my kid show me how to do it. I also have a blue LED on the opposite side to indicate when my light bar is on (I turn it on/off with a pneumatic foot switch under the carpet).
I did a bit more research and changed the wiring for the 4x4 indicator light so it is completely off even when the dusk sensor is on. I tapped into the Transfer Case Control Module - which is right above the gas pedal on the firewall. There are three connectors that plug into it. The top connector is the one you want. I pulled that connector out and wire tapped into the yellow/white stripped wire (see photo for exact wire) and connected that to the orange dash LED. I connected the ground from the orange LED to the body. I can report it works perfectly. When in 4x4, the LED is on and when in 2wd it is completely off (no more faint glow at night when the dusk sensor is on). No error codes. The yellow/white wire that I tapped into is the feed for the factory 4x4 indicator in the DIC.
Here’s a write up and a link to photos of the installation of my CTS2 Edge, Kleinn train horn, Wolo horn as well as additional lighting on the truck. I’ve also included parts I used and where I sourced them. In the link are several PDFs, including an electrical schematic I drew up. I’m not an EE, so please pardon my drawing. www.paauto.weebly.com I mounted the CTS2 Edge in the center console using a faceplate I bought from Proformance Diesel for $45. I sprayed it matte black and then cleared it with satin. You don’t need to paint it, but the raw plastic looks out of place unpainted in my opinion. I added oil and differential temperature probes to feed the CTS2. Also added a pressure transducer to monitor the pressure in my on-board air tank (more below). I installed the oil temp probe on my AmsOil dual bypass system. On the Proformance console you’ll notice two additional buttons that I added. The left one is for the Kleinn train horn. The right one is for the light bar on the grille. Both of these buttons trigger relays on the Bussmann block under the hood and are “ignition on” only. I added the up fitter module to the junction box under the dash in order to tap into the “ignition on” feed. See attached PDF for details on the up fitter module and the pins/wires needed to be purchased with it. You can get these parts from GM. For the light bar, I also installed a pneumatic floor switch that I put under the carpet behind the emergency brake. It’s completely out of site and works like an old school high beam floor switch. I bought the parts from PresAir (www.senasys.com). The foot pedal is B350BA ($15) and the switch it controls is TVA111A ($20). You can see in the attached schematic that I wired the pneumatic switch in series to the console switch such that the console switch serves as a master switch for my stock horn to a Wolo on demand air horn. I built a bracket and mounted the horn and a waterproof box to house the compressor and relay behind the front bumper (see picture) using the two existing bolts for the bumper. The box is from Home Depot. Note the clear plastic tube coming out of the box. It goes into the engine compartment and allows the box to breath b/c the on-demand compressor draws a vacuum and otherwise will starve itself (not work) without a vent. I wanted a louder horn so I took the plunge and installed a Kleinn HDKIT-630 with an on-board air system. I made a few modifications. I moved the relay from the compressor to under the hood (no way that thing would survive a winter under the truck in Pittsburgh!) and swapped it for a Hella waterproof relay. Also, I added a pressure transducer to feed the CTS2 so I can monitor tank pressure within the cab. It’s an awesome toy (it’ll set car alarms off). The button on the Proformance console controls it. For exterior lighting, I added Rigid led rock lights under the running boards (two on each) and under the back bed as well as floods pointing backwards. I will also be adding flush mount floods to the front bumper air dam (haven’t done it yet). Also put LEDs in the bed and in my tool box in the bed. Lastly, I added an under hood light (one of the Rigid rock lights) and a switch. For the rear facing floods, I hung them off the hitch frame through the large access holes. I needed to make four brackets to provide a solid base to mount them b/c the holes are so big. I made these from bar steel, primed, painted and then undercoated them. I tapped into the dome light feed so when I unlock the truck the running board lights and the light under the bed comes on. I connected the rear floods & the rock lights and the front floods to the CTS2 switch module. Switch 1 controls the front floods and switch 2 controls the running board lights and the rear facing floods. I relocated my spare to my bed and have it lashed down with an N-Fab kit. That allowed me to remove the spare tire winch and free up that space to mount a waterproof box (Home Depot). I simply used the bolt that held the winch in place to hold the box (see pictures). I mounted a three gang relay block (Painless Performance #30107 – bought from Summit Racing) and a four fuse block (Painless Performance #30002 – bought from Summit Racing) in this box. I put a Rigid light on the lid as well to shine directly down from where the spare tire used to be mounted. I tapped into the trailer harness for power (30 amp / always powered) for the rear box. As discussed above, I tapped into the dome light feed. It’s on the back of the junction box under the dash – kind of a PITA to access. I had to remove the junction box from the floor, then disconnect the module and then find the wire and tap into it. You guys would know that the dome light fades up and down instead of turning on and off instantly (which I think is accomplished by the computer rapidly turning the light on and off in succession). This fade effect played havoc with a standard relay – it would chatter loudly on & off until the dome was fully powered on or off (about 3 seconds). To overcome, I used a Beuler BU508TD adjustable time delay relay (see PDF). This is a really cool product – it essentially holds the trigger closed (on) for an adjustable amount of time after power is removed. I set it to about 5 seconds. That way once the dome light starts to spool up, it triggers the relay and the relay stays closed, thereby powering the running board lights and eliminating the chatter. For power distribution under the hood, I went with a Bussmann 15303-5. This thing gives you five relay slots and 10 fuse slots. It can handle 80 amps. You have to buy the relays and all the fittings (terminals, plugs and bushings) separately (see attached PDF). You can purchase from Waytek - www.waytekwire.com and/or on Amazon. For my pigtail connections, I used MSD Ignition Deutsch waterproof connectors, which I bought from Summit Racing. I wrapped everything in convoluted tubing. Lastly, I bought a couple of cans of Nox-Rust X-121B from Daubert Chemical Company (www.daubertchemical.com) to re-spray areas where I rubbed that nasty wax coating off as I was crawling around hooking all this stuff off. I believe this is the same stuff that’s applied at the factory to the frame. So, that’s how I wasted a lot of time and money in August!
I bought a repair kit from them for $117 - included the twin tube gun, one set of product (twin tubes totaling ~20 oz) and conditioner. I had drilled holes in the bed for a spare tire harness and subsequently relocated it so I wanted to repair the original holes. To repair, I used my angle grinder to grind down some of the original liner around the holes then filled them with JB Weld. I then used the Ultimate Linings kit to repair the liner. Still work in process - just laid it down this afternoon. It cured up quickly (10 minutes, but still tacky). I'll try to post some pics when I finish it up and its fully cured.
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