paauto

Here's are a few pics of it put back together. Still need to finish up a few loose ends and then will take her for a test drive. BTW, i had previously installed LED rock lights on the lower B pillar trim and in the front seat foot wells. I tapped into Pin 23 on the BCM X1 connector to trigger a Beuler relay that energizes the lights. The Beuler relay has a turn off delay function so that the Pulse Wave Modulation signal coming from the BCM to fade the interior lights does not cause a normal relay to flutter on and off repeatedly.

On it!!

Running a 600w, 6 channel JL Audio amp to drive the rear & front doors and the dash tweeters. Also running a JL Audio 400w subwoofer. Door speakers are JL Audio C1 - 690x (front) and - 650x (rear). Tweeters are Kenwood Excelon KFC-X2C.

140 sq feet in total! Finished the back wall today - see picture. That was a PITA - had to remove all those electronics and pull the wires out of the way. Two amplifiers - 50 amp for the speakers / 30 amp for the subwoofer. I ran the cable under the truck along the factory harness and entered the cabin by drilling a hole and adding a grommet in the "knockout" on the passenger side floor under the back seat.

I've embarked on a new project to replace the stereo system in my 2023 2500. I've always liked to take things apart, so i started by removing the interior of the truck - A, B & C pillar trim, all seats, door cards, center console and removed all the panels on the dash. Thus far i have installed Dynamat on the door interior cavities and inner door skins and the floor. Still need to do the back wall of the truck and the pillars. I installed new JL Audio speakers in the doors and Kenwood tweeters in the dash and did a home run of 14 guage speaker wire to the back seat are where i will install an Audio Control LC7i signal processor (tapping into the factory amp for line signal), a JL Audio 6 channel AMP and a JL Audio subwoofer. I ran 1/0 gauge wire from the battery to the back seat to power this stuff. While i had her apart, i installed a Blackvue front & rear dash cam system and ran the controller for my rear AirLift air bag system to the dash. I also installed the Upfitter Auxillary Swithches and are using them to control other crap that I've installed on the truck. I plan on putting Dynamat on the back wall tomorrow and then putting her back together. 1B898CF7-64E2-4BA0-AF19-4883D7BDE35F.heic

Thank you Another JR! Finishing up my install this week. I went a tad overboard and removed teh entire interior of the truck. Seats, carpet, center console, etc. Putting a new stereo in and decided to DynaMat the doors, floor, back wall....

Thanks! I was checking the switches out today. When pressed, they don't seem to physically "latch", but seem to send a signal to the BCM. I guess i'll have to get it installed and see how they work when the ignition is cycled on & off & on again. Hoping that they will remember their previous state when cycled back on and don't default to "off".

I am about to install the upfitter auxilliary switch kit on my 2023 Sierra 2500. Do the switches recall their status (on or off) from the last time the truck was shut off? I plan on putting a dash cam in the truck and would like to power it from one of the aux switches. Do i need to turn the switch on everytime I start the truck or will it remember that it was on when i i shut it down? thanks.

I think that should work. That's circuit 4786. Check out page 2-32 for the schematic. I looked thru all the BCM plugs and don't see anything more specific for the dome lights. Let us know!

You'll want to use the "Delay-Off" version. For my 2023, I am hooking the trigger up to Pin 23 on the first plug (X1) on the BCM. This controls the "Dome Lights". The wire color is gray. In the 2023 up fitter manual, you can find it on page 6-308. PM me if you want me to send you the manual. I'm still in the process of installing. I put the lights in today (for the back row, I put them at the bottom of the B pillar and for the front I put them at the top of the kick panel. On my 2017 I installed footwell lights and tapped into the equivalent pin as above. At first I used a standard relay. I learned, though, that the dome lights "fade" off. The BCM uses PWM (pulse wave modulation) to accomplish this. Essentially, it rapidly cycles the circuit on & off at varying frequency to dim the lights to the off state. A standard relay will turn on & off as the PWM kicks in, essentially flashing the footwell lights on and off. The Bueler delay off relay provides for a delay once the trigger power (i.e., the dome light PWM circuit) starts to fade to off. Even a 5 second delay will "ignore" the PWM issue described above with a standard relay. Hope this helps.

I'm in the process of installing footwell lights. On my 2017 I used the following relay, which allows for an adjustable "off time". I initially used a standard relay, but it pulsated on and off due to the PWM feed off the BCM. The Beular relay fixed this by holding the relay on for 5 seconds. It only requires 8 volts to trigger. Going to try this on my 2023 Sierra... https://www.qualitymobilevideo.com/bu510td.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAzKqdBhAnEiwAePEjkqSzrm9emtUhz0gqI-MJDodizLSS_FPZAVijfTnmT94-Gocj82c8jRoCC-QQAvD_BwE

Check out Crutchfield.com. I've bought a lot of home and car stereo stuff from them. They have great customer service - will get on the phone with you and help you figure out exactly what you need and also how to install it.

Take a look at the attached link - looks like there are four screws that hold this in place. I don't know what the screw size is though. https://www.gmpartscenter.net/auto-parts/2017/gmc/sierra-2500-hd/denali-trim/6-6l-v8-diesel-engine/body-cat/instrument-panel-components-scat You'll need to remove the trim piece on the side of the center console (that piece that looks like a sideways "L") to get to the screws on the left side of the hush panel. To get the "L" piece off, you'll need to remove the center cup holder assembly first. To do that, open the center console and use a trim removal tool to lever the piece up at the back where the door comes down (there's a ~3/4" area on both sides that the door covers when closed - wedge the tool in there). It just pops up (bunch of clips around the periphery). Once you have that off, you simply pull the "L" piece straight toward the passenger door and it will pop off as well. You'll see why you need to remove the cup holder assembly to get the "L" off - there is tab in the cup holder that slides into the "L up by the radio. Probably more info than you need...

I was consistently getting the "Low Coolant" message, despite the surge tank being full and bleeding the system by slowly opening the cap when shutting down for the night. Figured it must be a faulty sensor, so I ordered a new surge tank and installed it. The sensor has a float that closes the circuit when full and opens when low. Installation requires removing the cross brace, air filter housing and loosening the battery so you can slide it forward to pull the surge tank. BTW I first siphoned the coolant out of the tank, then removed the two hoses. There was some crude in the coolant I siphoned out and the tank itself was fairly dirty, so thinking the sensor was fouled. Anyway, got the new tank and everything re-installed. Low Coolant light is off (at least for now - fingers crossed).

I added switches to turn the functionality on/off for "lights on in mirror when in reverse" and "fogs on with high beams". Here's the wiring diagram (click on the "Truck Wiring.pdf" right above the picture below) and a picture of where I placed the switches. In Pennsylvania, when they do your annual state inspection they check to make sure the fog lights go off when the high beams are on. So, having the switch makes life a lot easier. As to the comment regarding the diode, I would recommend using one. Otherwise, you may inadvertently energize the backup light relay when the cargo lamp switch is turned on. Truck Wiring.pdf

Yes, there is a method to have the mirror lights illuminate while in reverse. It requires using a diode to jump between two connections in the BCM. If you search on the forum you will find it. Very easy to do.

It'll be fixed and back in your hands soon. Could be worse. That said, always a bummer when a new ride fails...

Do my kids count as rodents? Filthy animals...

Or both!! I put a train horn on with its own button in the center console and an airhorn up front behind the front bumper that is activated by the steering wheel pad. Both are connected up to my onboard air tank. One benefit is the if the alarm goes off, it is loud!

Here's a photo of my homemade custom bracket. I'm in the process of priming/painting/undercoating it and will post a pic shortly of the final beast.

Yep - sounds exactly like my predicament although i did have the factory boards and brackets to work with. Never heard back from Westin so I got the angle grinder w/ a cutoff wheel out and modified the factory bracket along with the Westin bracket - Frankenstein'd it!. I had a local guy weld it up for me on Thursday. I need to clean it up and paint it and will post a pic before i throw it on the truck.

I bought the same nerf bars / drop steps for my '17 HD. Purchased directly from Westin a few weeks ago. First off, the installation instructions are just plain wrong. The diagrams and illustrations are inconsistent as it relates to references to part numbers and how & where to install the brackets. To top it off, the brackets are also mis-tabled. It's as if someone purposely put the wrong labels on the brackets to get their jollies. I tossed the instructions and went by the seat of my pants. First thing I did was to pull the factory boards off. No need to drop the DEF tank to remove the two front brackets on the passenger side. As explained in earlier posts, they're a different design than the other factory brackets. Anyway, installation of the driver side Westin board was straight forward. Passenger side not so much. There is no way any of the Westin brackets will fit next to the DEF tank, even if you took it off. I sent a note to Westin customer service to see if there is a different bracket for the HD. Haven't heard back yet. If they don't offer a solution, I believe i can cut up the factory and Westin brackets and weld a custom one together.

Might want to try some dielectric grease on the pins to keep corrosion off.

One way would be tap into the high beam circuit under the hood at one of the lights. Then run that wire thru the firewall to your switch and then back out the firewall to a relay. That way when the high beams are on and your switch is on, it would activate the relay and power the light bar. Sounds like you've already got the hard part done - running the wires thru the firewall and installing the switch. You just need to re-wire one end of the loop to tap into the high beams. The other end goes to the relay to turn it on/off.

I have a '17 and can confirm it is the same.