paauto

Totally agree. I pulled my seats and carpet out and laid Dynamat on the entire floor/back wall/B&C pillars as well as heat insulation. Very quiet truck now.

I had that tick and then changed to full synthetic oil and it went away (25,000 miles ago). 38,000 miles on mine now and all is good. BTW, if you have some time to kill (45 min) watch this Gale Banks video.

I've got +20 offset on my Fuel Pumps. I'm thinking I may be able to go up a little beyond 275/70. Am thinking 305/65 on 18's.

Good looking truck. What size tires? Also, which Fuels are those and do you happen to know the offset? I have Fuels on mine.

I have an MBRP stainless tailpipe (everything behind DPF) and dual versions of these. They're great. Clean up easily with a little fine steel wool and Simple Green spray.

Very easy. Here's a link to the parts schematic to give you some perspective. https://www.gmpartscenter.net/auto-parts/2017/gmc/sierra-2500-hd/denali-trim/6-6l-v8-diesel-engine/body-cat/center-console-scat First, you need to remove the top of the console - this is part#1 in the first picture in the link and comes out as a complete unit. The best way is to open the latched storage cover and unsnap the light inside and move it to the side. No need to disconnect the wires or anything. Then take a trim tool (not a screw driver, or you'll scratch it) and part #1 off by inserting the tool between the vinyl and plastic in the area where the lid to the storage box closes down on the vinyl base. You need to do it on both sides. There are a series of metal clips that hold part #1 to the base of the console. Start working from the back to the front, alternating sides. The first time it may take a bit of cajoling to free things up, but it'll come. Note that the wires to the outlets and plugs are still connected. Your call whether you need to disconnect all of that or not, depending on what you are doing. Now, scroll down to the bottom picture in the link. you will see two screws that hold part #1 into bracket #2 in the schematic. Remove those. There are two covers on the sides at the back of the console near the floor. Remove the covers then remove the bolts that connect to the bracket labeled #4. There are also two bolts under the rubber mat in the main storage compartment that need removed - they bolt into bracket #3. That should do it.

New bracket. Notice there is about 1/4 inch of clearance now between the lower line and frame. The factory bracket is a flimsy piece of plastic with a push pin holding it to the radiator support. This product uses stainless bolt and nut to securely pull the lines against the radiator support. The directions that come with the Deviant product are very clear.

I installed the new bracket today. Very easy and it holds the line about a 1/4 of an inch off the bracket. Here is a picture of truck with the grille off of it. The factory bracket is in the lower left corner of the picture.

No, I don't believe you need to disconnect the lines. I will pull probably pull the grille off tomorrow and install the kit. Will take pics and post them.

To check on your own, you may want to remove the horizontal plastic fascia cover inside the hood. Will need to pry out the dozen or so push pin rivets and then lift the cover off (use a flat blade screw driver to lift the middle portion up, then use a pickle fork trim tool to pry the body of it up). Once you remove that fascia, you should have good visibility down between the radiator and grille. The potential rubbing would be on the left side as you look down (see pics in posts above). I noticed the issue in the summer on mine, when someone else on a different forum posted the issue. I put a piece of rubber hose between the frame bracket and pipe to protect it. I since purchased a kit from Deviant https://www.deviantraceparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=78400 which I haven't installed yet (too cold in Pittsburgh recently) to fix it.

I did a bit more research and changed the wiring for the 4x4 indicator light so it is completely off even when the dusk sensor is on. I tapped into the Transfer Case Control Module - which is right above the gas pedal on the firewall. There are three connectors that plug into it. The top connector is the one you want. I pulled that connector out and wire tapped into the yellow/white stripped wire (see photo for exact wire) and connected that to the orange dash LED. I connected the ground from the orange LED to the body. I can report it works perfectly. When in 4x4, the LED is on and when in 2wd it is completely off (no more faint glow at night when the dusk sensor is on). No error codes. The yellow/white wire that I tapped into is the feed for the factory 4x4 indicator in the DIC.

here you go... https://proformance-diesel.com/product/edge-cts2-all-forms-mount/

I bought a repair kit from them for $117 - included the twin tube gun, one set of product (twin tubes totaling ~20 oz) and conditioner. I had drilled holes in the bed for a spare tire harness and subsequently relocated it so I wanted to repair the original holes. To repair, I used my angle grinder to grind down some of the original liner around the holes then filled them with JB Weld. I then used the Ultimate Linings kit to repair the liner. Still work in process - just laid it down this afternoon. It cured up quickly (10 minutes, but still tacky). I'll try to post some pics when I finish it up and its fully cured.

Do my kids count as rodents? Filthy animals...

I believe it is # 4 in the attached link, but may be # 6. https://www.gmpartscenter.net/auto-parts/2017/gmc/sierra-2500-hd/denali-trim/6-6l-v8-diesel-engine/body-cat/interior-trim-rear-door-scat