paauto

Check for leaks in the front foot wells near the firewall in the corners near the doors. The sunroof drain pipes come down the A pillars on both sides and exit through grommets on the firewall just below the windshield. The grommet on my passenger side pulled out of the firewall and water leaked down. You should rule out a water leak. Pull the kick panels / thresholds off so you can slide your hand between the carpet and padding and also under the padding. First work up the thresholds with a nylon tool - there are a series of plastic pins that snap into a housing on the floor. Start at the rear most seam and work forward. Once the threshold is loosened, just pull straight back on the kick panel portion of the trim and it will come un-clipped.

Me too for the hot spot. Called OnStar and they re-booted things remotely and then said I had run through my data plan and I needed more data. I subscribed to the unlimited data plan a month ago and still had the issue. I've disconnected the batteries to try and re-set things, but no luck.

Here's the summary. I had dampness in front passenger footwell. Sunroof drain tube grommet had pulled out of firewall and allowed water to enter cab along sidewall under the fuse panel. I was able to get the grommet back in place. The detail is below. I was in the process of swapping the front passenger side kick panel/threshold out the other day (original was beaten up pretty badly) and when I pulled the carpet back I noticed the carpet pad was damp in the upper right part of the footwell. The foam-backed rubber pad that sits at a 45 degree angle toward the firewall was also wet on the right half of the underside. I removed the lower glove box compartment and started tracing the water source up the side wall toward the corner where the A-pillar, sidewall and firewall converge behind the fuse panel. I removed the A-pillar cover/handle (remove the cover plugs, take out the two bolts and pull on the handle to release the metal clip at the top from the A-pillar). Everything in the A-pillar was dry, so the leak was somewhere below or at the window. I needed to get a look at the bottom of the windshield from the inside. To do that I needed to remove the dash cover (the part that spans the full length of the front of the dashboard (nearest the window) and includes the speaker covers and has the light sensor in the middle). To remove this I also needed to remove the driver's side A-pillar cover/handle. I used a plastic trim tool to pry the seam of the cover up. There are ~10 metal clips on the underside of the cover that clip into slots in the dash. The best way is to start at the left speaker cover and move the tool to the right until you hit the next clip then rotate the tool to pop the clip out, then move right to the next one. Once the clips are freed, the panel should lift up. You then need to remove the connection to the sensor. Once the sensor is disconnected, the cover can be moved out of the way. I was finally able to feed my endoscope down from the bottom inside of the right corner of the windshield and I could see the problem - the grommet on the drain tube from the sunroof had pulled out of the firewall, allowing rainwater to run down the sidewall. I was able to use an angled trim tool from the top and a long screwdriver through the fuse panel access panel to push the grommet back in. I let the carpet and pad dry out thoroughly and sprayed Clorox on the bottom of the carpet and the pad. I must have caught this early because there was no mildew smell either before or after. I had the truck off road the morning I noticed the dampness. I had bounced it down over a berm accidentally and am thinking that maybe that jarred the grommet loose. Probably not properly installed when the truck was built. Everything is back together.

I get an alignment when I purchase new tires.

I just used U-Pol Raptor bed liner to coat my Westin powder coated running boards and my grille. It's a 2K system - seems pretty durable. I did it myself using a U-Pol Professional Shutz gun. It looks awesome and is definitely going to hold up better than the powder coat.

you might want to pull the half shafts out until you figure things out, unless you need 4wd.

What does Rough Country say?

If you are only putting drop shackles on, you shouldn't need to loosen/remove the axle U Bolts. In any case, the U Bolts, nuts and washers are torque-to-yield single use, so if you loosen or remove them you should technically replace them. The sequence for tightening the bolts is as follows (do it in an X cross pattern) (i) first pass: 74 lb ft (ii) second pass: loosen 270 degrees (iii) third pass: 74 lb ft (iv) final pass: 180 degrees. The bolt that connects the shackle to the spring should be torqued to 129 lb ft. Not exactly sure what the torque spec for the shackle to the frame is, but I know the spec for the bolt that holds the front of the spring to the frame is: (i) first pass: 125 lb ft (ii) second pass: 90 degrees. Also, you should torque things with the weight of the vehicle on the ground (i.e. don't torque things with the axle hanging down free or when the weight of the vehicle is dropped on it, the bushings will bind and wear out prematurely. Hope this helps.

I was consistently getting the "Low Coolant" message, despite the surge tank being full and bleeding the system by slowly opening the cap when shutting down for the night. Figured it must be a faulty sensor, so I ordered a new surge tank and installed it. The sensor has a float that closes the circuit when full and opens when low. Installation requires removing the cross brace, air filter housing and loosening the battery so you can slide it forward to pull the surge tank. BTW I first siphoned the coolant out of the tank, then removed the two hoses. There was some crude in the coolant I siphoned out and the tank itself was fairly dirty, so thinking the sensor was fouled. Anyway, got the new tank and everything re-installed. Low Coolant light is off (at least for now - fingers crossed).

Are they chromed? Factory chrome wheels don't last long in the harsh north winters.

Wow - 45k miles. That is definitely on the low end of life expectancy.

Totally agree. Live in Pittsburgh, have had the truck since new in Feb 2017 but I've spent time under it in the warm months hitting the frame rust with rust neutralizer then re-coating with Daubert's. Even took the hitch off and had it professionally powder coated. Bottom side literally looks better than new. I know I'm out there, but it's my thing. I paid a lot for the truck and will drive it 10 years.

I'm running 285/65/20 BFG KO2s on Fuel Sledge +20mm offset 20" wheels. I installed the Wicked bumper spacer kit that moves the front bumper forward 3/4" so I didn't have to do any trimming. I may be able to squeeze something a bit larger in there, but I'm happy with this set up. All good.

For $20, you can get a three day subscription to the GM / Delco service website for your VIN. Here's the link. https://www.acdelcotds.com/subscriptions# This is what the techs use (or should use) to do all repairs. It will give you step by step details on how to remove and reassemble things, including torque specs. Also, if you have the capability you can print the instructions to PDF and save them for future reference. Over three days, you can troll through all the repairs you might do on your truck (brakes, suspension, etc.). I've used this a couple of time when I'm working on the truck. Definitely allows you to plan your method of attack! if you need parts (i.e. a broken clip, lost screw, or anything else for the truck) you can find it at the following website. https://www.gmpartscenter.net/auto-parts/2017/gmc/sierra-2500-hd/denali-trim/6-6l-v8-diesel-engine Hope this helps.

I did not have the ticking / clicking noise. Dynamat will likely help, even if it's plastic on plastic because it will reduce the echo effect and otherwise just deaden the space in there. If you decide to do it, I'd suggest you remove the driver's seat so you can really get at it. Removing the seat is easy - two torx bolts at the back of each rail. Unbolt the seat belt from the seat first and also disconnect the wiring harness.