paauto

If you are only putting drop shackles on, you shouldn't need to loosen/remove the axle U Bolts. In any case, the U Bolts, nuts and washers are torque-to-yield single use, so if you loosen or remove them you should technically replace them. The sequence for tightening the bolts is as follows (do it in an X cross pattern) (i) first pass: 74 lb ft (ii) second pass: loosen 270 degrees (iii) third pass: 74 lb ft (iv) final pass: 180 degrees. The bolt that connects the shackle to the spring should be torqued to 129 lb ft. Not exactly sure what the torque spec for the shackle to the frame is, but I know the spec for the bolt that holds the front of the spring to the frame is: (i) first pass: 125 lb ft (ii) second pass: 90 degrees. Also, you should torque things with the weight of the vehicle on the ground (i.e. don't torque things with the axle hanging down free or when the weight of the vehicle is dropped on it, the bushings will bind and wear out prematurely. Hope this helps.

I was consistently getting the "Low Coolant" message, despite the surge tank being full and bleeding the system by slowly opening the cap when shutting down for the night. Figured it must be a faulty sensor, so I ordered a new surge tank and installed it. The sensor has a float that closes the circuit when full and opens when low. Installation requires removing the cross brace, air filter housing and loosening the battery so you can slide it forward to pull the surge tank. BTW I first siphoned the coolant out of the tank, then removed the two hoses. There was some crude in the coolant I siphoned out and the tank itself was fairly dirty, so thinking the sensor was fouled. Anyway, got the new tank and everything re-installed. Low Coolant light is off (at least for now - fingers crossed).

Are they chromed? Factory chrome wheels don't last long in the harsh north winters.

Wow - 45k miles. That is definitely on the low end of life expectancy.

Totally agree. Live in Pittsburgh, have had the truck since new in Feb 2017 but I've spent time under it in the warm months hitting the frame rust with rust neutralizer then re-coating with Daubert's. Even took the hitch off and had it professionally powder coated. Bottom side literally looks better than new. I know I'm out there, but it's my thing. I paid a lot for the truck and will drive it 10 years.

I'm running 285/65/20 BFG KO2s on Fuel Sledge +20mm offset 20" wheels. I installed the Wicked bumper spacer kit that moves the front bumper forward 3/4" so I didn't have to do any trimming. I may be able to squeeze something a bit larger in there, but I'm happy with this set up. All good.

For $20, you can get a three day subscription to the GM / Delco service website for your VIN. Here's the link. https://www.acdelcotds.com/subscriptions# This is what the techs use (or should use) to do all repairs. It will give you step by step details on how to remove and reassemble things, including torque specs. Also, if you have the capability you can print the instructions to PDF and save them for future reference. Over three days, you can troll through all the repairs you might do on your truck (brakes, suspension, etc.). I've used this a couple of time when I'm working on the truck. Definitely allows you to plan your method of attack! if you need parts (i.e. a broken clip, lost screw, or anything else for the truck) you can find it at the following website. https://www.gmpartscenter.net/auto-parts/2017/gmc/sierra-2500-hd/denali-trim/6-6l-v8-diesel-engine Hope this helps.

I did not have the ticking / clicking noise. Dynamat will likely help, even if it's plastic on plastic because it will reduce the echo effect and otherwise just deaden the space in there. If you decide to do it, I'd suggest you remove the driver's seat so you can really get at it. Removing the seat is easy - two torx bolts at the back of each rail. Unbolt the seat belt from the seat first and also disconnect the wiring harness.

I have a set of five 18" Fuel Pump wheels wrapped with BFG KO2's (265/70/18) mounted on my 2017 Sierra 2500 HD that I would like to sell. The tires have 15k miles on them (I do a five tire rotation). The wheels are in great shape - no curb rash, never bent. I recently had them balanced. The following link is a picture of the wheels. https://www.carid.com/fuel-wheels/d515-pump-1pc-matte-black-448235.html I recently leveled the front of my truck and am upgrading to 20" Fuel wheels with 285/65/20 BFG KO2s. I'm in Pittsburgh. If interested, let me know

Yes, will need an alignment after cranking.

I have two batteries and have left the truck sit for 10 days straight and it's been fine - plenty of juice to record. If you're going to leave it sit a while I would turn off the LEDs in the settings to converse a little power.

Check out this link https://www.blackvue.com/power-magic-pro/ I have a BlackVue 2 channel dash cam (front and rear) and installed this to protect drain on the battery while in parking mode.

Here's a link to a site that provides wheel size information by make, model and year. You can use it to compare sizes from different years. https://www.wheel-size.com/size/gmc/sierra-2500/2017/

You might want to try some electric tape on the bottom portion of the camera and see if that helps block the tailgate.

Your 2019 may already have the updated software in it. You can check what you have by going to this GM website and inputting your VIN. Navigate to "Radio Controls" and see what you find. https://tis2web.service.gm.com/tis2web/ Your truck should have the 84396836 update in it (see the second PDF below to get a sense of what you're looking for - this is a screenshot of my truck's current radio calibrations using the website above). If your truck doesn't have this update, take it back to the dealer and have them flash the radio for this update. The attached bulletin is for 2017-2018 trucks to address the problem. You may want to show them this. 17-NA-269.pdf Radio Controls.pdf