paauto

I used black Plasti-Dip'd on my grill surround, insert and hood scoop.

I tuck the the latch into the slot on the B Pillar.

sorry, meant to ask the console question more generally to the group. yeah, that grommet is a pain. glad u pulled it out and did an autopsy. definitely dead space in the middle that makes it hard to navigate through.

That grommet is a PITA indeed. Actually, i think it's two grommets with a hollow center. I used a coat hanger to push wires through it. So, how much room is there in the center console where the factory sub is located? Ideally I would put my new sub there. Haven't pulled the console apart yet to check.

Thanks!

I'm now making plans to upgrade the sub, putting a powered one under the rear seat. Can I tap into the stock sub feeds for signal to the new sub or do i need to tap into the rear speaker wires in the B Pillars? The schematic for the stock speaker set up is attached. I will of course run power to the new sub.

I did the install this weekend - using the Infinity speakers for the doors and the Memphis speakers for the dash - same as what Bish did. I also completely Dynamated the doors. The cab is significantly quieter inside and the sound a big improvement. Not sure how to proportion between the speakers and the Dynamat. Install is fairly easy, but time consuming. You need adaptor brackets for the door speakers. Crutchfield has everything, including de-construction instructions w/ pics. Removing the door panels is a bit of pain at first, but I had experience b/c I already did it to install the Intellihaul cameras. My suggestion, after you remove the screws, is to start with the top near the window and use the glass as leverage on your knuckles to pull the panel away from the frame. The clips across the top are metal and pretty stiff to get out. You get the sense you are going break something (like your fingers!) but you won't. Once you get the top off, you can work around the sides with your removal tool and pry the plastic plugs out. I didn't find the dash speakers to be that big of an issue. Would recommend you have a U joint for your 1/4" ratchet to get at the screw closest to the windshield though. Crutchfiled didn't have a wiring adaptor for the dash speakers, so i cut the factory connector off and crimped on single wire connectors to both the factory wire and the Memphis speaker (the red male / female ones you can buy at Home Depot). Before cutting, make note of which wire is positive on the factory connector so you can connect that to the positive (red) wire on the Memphis speaker. I believe on the left side it is the gray/dark blue wire and on the right side the one with the green stripe. If you look closely at the end of the factory connector there is a very dim "+" stamped on it, but you have to look close. I plan on removing the rear seats and Dynamating the rear wall of the cabin and putting a Sub in then. You can buy Dynamat in bulk on Amazon.

would love a pic! did you disconnect the factory Bose sub?

I ordered the same speaker set up you have and the Dynamat (debating whether to get the Kicker sub b/c i need the room under the rear seat). Did the dash speakers drop into the factory cut outs or did you need to modify things?

Does the Denali have a factory sub in it? In any case I assume the Kicker improved things?

Definitely they are an improvement over the factory.

I'm a total weekend warrior. I laid my hands on the GMC Upfitter Integration Body Builder Manual for the truck. It is ~1200 pages long and has the full schematics, explanations of how things work, detail on every connecter in the truck, on and on and on. On page 92 it shows the schematics for the 4x4 transfer case indicator LEDs. I tried to post it on my weebly site, but it's too large to post without paying to upgrade.

Thanks. Morimoto upgrade is noticeable, but not overwhelming.

Did you re-cable or use the factory cables?

Did you do it yourself or outsource?