paauto

Check out Crutchfield.com. I've bought a lot of home and car stereo stuff from them. They have great customer service - will get on the phone with you and help you figure out exactly what you need and also how to install it.

Take a look at the attached link - looks like there are four screws that hold this in place. I don't know what the screw size is though. https://www.gmpartscenter.net/auto-parts/2017/gmc/sierra-2500-hd/denali-trim/6-6l-v8-diesel-engine/body-cat/instrument-panel-components-scat You'll need to remove the trim piece on the side of the center console (that piece that looks like a sideways "L") to get to the screws on the left side of the hush panel. To get the "L" piece off, you'll need to remove the center cup holder assembly first. To do that, open the center console and use a trim removal tool to lever the piece up at the back where the door comes down (there's a ~3/4" area on both sides that the door covers when closed - wedge the tool in there). It just pops up (bunch of clips around the periphery). Once you have that off, you simply pull the "L" piece straight toward the passenger door and it will pop off as well. You'll see why you need to remove the cup holder assembly to get the "L" off - there is tab in the cup holder that slides into the "L up by the radio. Probably more info than you need...

It will work. I use one on my 2017, although I'm in the process of upgrading to the CTS3 once I build a new console to house it.

I control the light bar via a pneumatic foot switch that I placed on the dead pedal. I bought it from Pressair if anyone is interested. I hit my limit on photo uploading so am unable to post the picture. If interested you can navigate to: https://paauto.weebly.com where I've posted a bunch of pics of my mods to the truck and the wiring diagram. I've made a bunch of additions/changes since I posted those pics, but you'll get the drift. In any case, I wired a master switch (located in the center console) in series with the light bar foot switch so I can be assured all power is cut to the light bar and it's not inadvertently switched on (i.e. by my 17 y/o daughter who loves to drive the truck with her friends!).

Here's a shot of the 4x4 indicator and light bar indicator (it's blue)...

Here's a shot of the 4x4 indicator.

I mounted a small yellow LED in my speedo and wired it to the Transfer Case Control Module (X1) pin #12. Put a blue LED in there as well to let me know when my light bar is on.

For $20 you can get a 3 day subscription to the online GM service manual for your VIN, which will show you exactly how to remove the seat and replace the cover. Here's the link to the site https://www.acdelcotds.com/subscriptions The good thing is once you have the subscription you can troll thru every repair instruction, torque setting, etc. for the truck and print them out for future reference. You can track down the parts you need at this site https://www.gmpartscenter.net/auto-parts/2017/gmc/sierra-2500-hd/denali-trim/6-6l-v8-diesel-engine (note that you'll need to put the VIN in for your truck to get the correct parts - this is for my specific truck) Hope this helps!

I added an air horn and tapped into the stock horns to trigger the solenoid. Easiest way to get at the wires is to remove the driver's side headlight and you have super easy access. Otherwise you will drive yourself nuts trying to access from below.

No problems at all after being there for 2 years. Looks and works as good as new.

Check for leaks in the front foot wells near the firewall in the corners near the doors. The sunroof drain pipes come down the A pillars on both sides and exit through grommets on the firewall just below the windshield. The grommet on my passenger side pulled out of the firewall and water leaked down. You should rule out a water leak. Pull the kick panels / thresholds off so you can slide your hand between the carpet and padding and also under the padding. First work up the thresholds with a nylon tool - there are a series of plastic pins that snap into a housing on the floor. Start at the rear most seam and work forward. Once the threshold is loosened, just pull straight back on the kick panel portion of the trim and it will come un-clipped.

Me too for the hot spot. Called OnStar and they re-booted things remotely and then said I had run through my data plan and I needed more data. I subscribed to the unlimited data plan a month ago and still had the issue. I've disconnected the batteries to try and re-set things, but no luck.

Here's the summary. I had dampness in front passenger footwell. Sunroof drain tube grommet had pulled out of firewall and allowed water to enter cab along sidewall under the fuse panel. I was able to get the grommet back in place. The detail is below. I was in the process of swapping the front passenger side kick panel/threshold out the other day (original was beaten up pretty badly) and when I pulled the carpet back I noticed the carpet pad was damp in the upper right part of the footwell. The foam-backed rubber pad that sits at a 45 degree angle toward the firewall was also wet on the right half of the underside. I removed the lower glove box compartment and started tracing the water source up the side wall toward the corner where the A-pillar, sidewall and firewall converge behind the fuse panel. I removed the A-pillar cover/handle (remove the cover plugs, take out the two bolts and pull on the handle to release the metal clip at the top from the A-pillar). Everything in the A-pillar was dry, so the leak was somewhere below or at the window. I needed to get a look at the bottom of the windshield from the inside. To do that I needed to remove the dash cover (the part that spans the full length of the front of the dashboard (nearest the window) and includes the speaker covers and has the light sensor in the middle). To remove this I also needed to remove the driver's side A-pillar cover/handle. I used a plastic trim tool to pry the seam of the cover up. There are ~10 metal clips on the underside of the cover that clip into slots in the dash. The best way is to start at the left speaker cover and move the tool to the right until you hit the next clip then rotate the tool to pop the clip out, then move right to the next one. Once the clips are freed, the panel should lift up. You then need to remove the connection to the sensor. Once the sensor is disconnected, the cover can be moved out of the way. I was finally able to feed my endoscope down from the bottom inside of the right corner of the windshield and I could see the problem - the grommet on the drain tube from the sunroof had pulled out of the firewall, allowing rainwater to run down the sidewall. I was able to use an angled trim tool from the top and a long screwdriver through the fuse panel access panel to push the grommet back in. I let the carpet and pad dry out thoroughly and sprayed Clorox on the bottom of the carpet and the pad. I must have caught this early because there was no mildew smell either before or after. I had the truck off road the morning I noticed the dampness. I had bounced it down over a berm accidentally and am thinking that maybe that jarred the grommet loose. Probably not properly installed when the truck was built. Everything is back together.

I get an alignment when I purchase new tires.

I just used U-Pol Raptor bed liner to coat my Westin powder coated running boards and my grille. It's a 2K system - seems pretty durable. I did it myself using a U-Pol Professional Shutz gun. It looks awesome and is definitely going to hold up better than the powder coat.