paauto

I bought a repair kit from them for $117 - included the twin tube gun, one set of product (twin tubes totaling ~20 oz) and conditioner. I had drilled holes in the bed for a spare tire harness and subsequently relocated it so I wanted to repair the original holes. To repair, I used my angle grinder to grind down some of the original liner around the holes then filled them with JB Weld. I then used the Ultimate Linings kit to repair the liner. Still work in process - just laid it down this afternoon. It cured up quickly (10 minutes, but still tacky). I'll try to post some pics when I finish it up and its fully cured.

Do my kids count as rodents? Filthy animals...

I believe it is # 4 in the attached link, but may be # 6. https://www.gmpartscenter.net/auto-parts/2017/gmc/sierra-2500-hd/denali-trim/6-6l-v8-diesel-engine/body-cat/interior-trim-rear-door-scat

Or both!! I put a train horn on with its own button in the center console and an airhorn up front behind the front bumper that is activated by the steering wheel pad. Both are connected up to my onboard air tank. One benefit is the if the alarm goes off, it is loud!

Yes, the dealers have the ability to change the TPMS thresholds. But, it is difficult if not impossible to find one that will do it due to liability concerns. I tried and couldn't find one to change it. I ended up buying a Mongoose Pro interface and a subscription to the GM programming software and did it myself. Very easy to do. The TPMS thresholds are in the BCM module. With the GM software, I have full functionality to program and update all modules in the truck. Interesting though that GM recently added a restriction for the number of times the modules can be re-programmed using the subscription for a specific VIN. I think this is so GM can determine if performance tunes have been dropped in. I think the ECM retains something like 20 or 30 of the last programs dropped in it, so you would have to reflash that many times to clear the performance tune. So, this is GM's way of cracking down I suppose.

Can u send a pic or link to the bars you bought? Also, do you have factory running boards? I put Westin's on my truck, but need to modify the bracket by the DEF tank to fit.

Here's a photo of my homemade custom bracket. I'm in the process of priming/painting/undercoating it and will post a pic shortly of the final beast.

MBRP is the way to go.

Yep - sounds exactly like my predicament although i did have the factory boards and brackets to work with. Never heard back from Westin so I got the angle grinder w/ a cutoff wheel out and modified the factory bracket along with the Westin bracket - Frankenstein'd it!. I had a local guy weld it up for me on Thursday. I need to clean it up and paint it and will post a pic before i throw it on the truck.

I bought the same nerf bars / drop steps for my '17 HD. Purchased directly from Westin a few weeks ago. First off, the installation instructions are just plain wrong. The diagrams and illustrations are inconsistent as it relates to references to part numbers and how & where to install the brackets. To top it off, the brackets are also mis-tabled. It's as if someone purposely put the wrong labels on the brackets to get their jollies. I tossed the instructions and went by the seat of my pants. First thing I did was to pull the factory boards off. No need to drop the DEF tank to remove the two front brackets on the passenger side. As explained in earlier posts, they're a different design than the other factory brackets. Anyway, installation of the driver side Westin board was straight forward. Passenger side not so much. There is no way any of the Westin brackets will fit next to the DEF tank, even if you took it off. I sent a note to Westin customer service to see if there is a different bracket for the HD. Haven't heard back yet. If they don't offer a solution, I believe i can cut up the factory and Westin brackets and weld a custom one together.

Might want to try some dielectric grease on the pins to keep corrosion off.

I installed on mine and yes, the new trim has the appropriate hole for the sensor.

drop shackle the back to level then you don't have to worry about the front end geometry.

I believe there is a camera on the windshield behind the rear view mirror that is used for lane departure. May be that camera.

If you haven't already connected the side step lights somewhere else, you can always tap into the hitch wiring harness at the back of the truck behind the bumper.