My thoughts exactly... ***UPDATE*** Took the truck to my mechanic and had him go thru it. (NOT A GM DEALER).... Of course the "issue" would not duplicate for him so we decided to go ahead and change out the ignition switch and see if that eliminates the problem It started just fine this morning..(fingers crossed) so we'll go from there. FYI for everyone..... He ran my truck thru his computer diagnostic and pulled up any/all active and non-active controller codes. Had a few minor non-active codes but ONE tripped multiple times from BCM - U0198 (LOST COMMUNICATION WITH TCM) Found a GM repair bulletin #12-08-57-001 doc#2856732 To summerize - "Intermittent no crank/start, a weak/dead battery or battery drain. The conditions could occur with OR without the following DTC's - U0140, U0151, U0164, U0168, U0214, UO155, U0184, U0194, U0198, B1019, U0170, OR C0561 in low speed modules" "Water may be found on the rear floor of the vehicle and/or the rear carpet may be wet. This condition may SOMETIMES lead to a possible NO START due to remote control door lock receiver (RCDLR) connector corrosion. Corrosion may be found in the RCDLR module & connector on circuits 1140 & 5060 (battery positive and low speed). Heavy rains cause the condition to be MORE evident." "The CAUSE of this condition may be WATER ENTERING THE VEHICLE THROUGH THE CENTER HIGH MOUNTED STOP LAMP (RCDLR) opening which may leak down the B and C pillars." So... there's a water leak corroding the RCDLR module behind the rear interior body panel........and it's a KNOWN issue. Just thought I' share.
K all.... I'm pulling my hair out on this one. I've been having "random" no-start issues with my 2010 GMC SIERRA SLT Crew 6.2l w/91K usually when it's been cold out - below (-0F) I've been researching the web for this issue with little or no luck pinpointing the cause or a repair This could be 2 or more issues but they seem to be connected.... So..when this no-start occurs.... 1. I hit the factory remote start button(s) from the the warm confines on my house 2. NOTHING happens - the park light blink....but that's it. 3. I get dressed for the -10F cold weather and stomp outside to start it like a savage....WITH THE KEY 4. I get in and turn the key to the START/CRANK position... ONLY the PASSLOCK ICON security light comes on solid and NOTHING HAPPENS 5. Radio, int lights, fan etc work 6. turn the key AGAIN - same result - NO START 7. I'll get pissy and cycle the key several times rapidly (this has worked before) 8. Eventually when this does fail (Like today).i]. I'll walk away sputtering profanity and other colorful metaphors...only to return 10 minutes or so later after I have a smoke....turn the key and ALL the normal dash lights come on...... and it cranks normally - THEN IT STARTS!! - nope not today. What I've done: I've replaced the battery last spring w/a 900 CCA and did a voltage test - OK (13.3v at rest) The 2nd time - I checked all relevant fuses - OK. Then crawled under the truck and given the starter a whack with a mallet - NO CHANGE Now I'll also add....as I mentioned this could be multiple issue(s)..... that BEFORE i noticed the PASSLOCK ICON on the dash on... and I eventually got 'er to started.... a few times when using the REMOTE key fob to start 'er..... it would fire...run briefly....then die. Then the FOB wouldn't work after 2 attempts to I had to go out and use the key....it worked for the most part then. As a result I started researching if I was having BLOCK HTR issues confusing the ECM when it was cold....so I added a battery blanket to be plugged in w/the block htr. No issue(s) for a few wks....but then it started to act up with the NO-CRANK symptoms.... I'm at a loss?? I've tried BOTH keys. BOTH key fobs to remote start - no luck Right now the truck is sitting in my drive way plugged in, battery maintainer on it waiting to see if she'll go when I run home for lunch. IT was -8F here today the coldest its been since early Jan and I didn't have it plugged in. I'm pulling my hair out tracking down this issue....or ISSUES?? Am I looking at a new ignition switch? Or a complete ignition starter column harness? Any ideas to steer me in the right direction would be helpfull. Thanks
Yep. Found that the driver's side swaybar link was broken. It was sitting in place and only made the big clunk noise when the chassis shifted enough for the torsion bar to flex. So I had both replaced. All good
My 2010 GMC SIERRA SLT Crew is making the same noise(s). Having the mechanic check this area(s) out as I type this. The noise/clunk/bang is so random it's hard to track down. I GOOGLE'd and joined this site to see if this matched my truck's symptoms.....so far it's dead on! Great INFO!!! Will keep all updated when I find out later is this is indeed the same problem I'm having!
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