Wire was just some 14 or 12 gauge speaker wire I had laying around. The relays were generic bosch style relays. Here are some weatherproof ones that would be a good idea. https://www.amazon.com/PACK-Automotive-Waterproof-Relay-Switch/dp/B074FSZWVT/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1526388191&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=bosch+relay&psc=1
Buy me another truck and I'll make one! lol. I suspect that this would be a pretty low volume product and designing one would be pretty significant. It would also be marginally easier as it would just have connectors pre-attached vs using your own.
Yep, that was the thread I was referring too. I could never get his posted solution about using the brake light to trigger another relay to work correctly. I understood the general premise, but on my TR-7 it would appear that the timer resets with each pulse that it sees. So instead of the first pulse triggering the timer (I have mine set for 3 seconds) and then waiting for three more pulses within three seconds, it just checks to see if it receives another pulse within that three seconds. So essentially, if you wait to the end of the timer, a setting of four pulses and three seconds could trigger the module in as long as nine seconds (Pulse... 3 seconds... pulse... 3 seconds...pulse... 3 seconds... pulse). So even though the brake light was breaking the trigger pulse cycle, it would open every time using the blinker/hazards no matter what settings I used on the TR-7. (Yeah, there are random bits of left over wire inside my tailgate now) My solution is also electrically simpler and not subject to that weird double pulse counting thing (IE the TR-7 will detect 6 pulses when pressing unlock three times). The relay does not activate until it detects a 12 volt pulse versus the detection range of the TR-7 starting as low as something like 0.65volts. So when the relay detects 12 volts (the real pulse, not just the system standby/wakeup/whatever it is) it sends a pulse to the TR-7. The original relay as described is just for sending power to the actuators.
I don't understand what you mean by remove tailgate lock. My truck has factory power locks. Everything works as it did before except I now have the option to open the tailgate from the key fob. Using the key fob to open will open the tailgate regardless of whether or not the tailgate is locked. The locking mechanism merely disconnects the handle on the tailgate from operating the release mechanism.
So, I really liked the feature on the Ford F-150 where you can release the tailgate using the key fob. I wanted to do it on my 2017 Silverado. I found a past topic on this forum that mentioned it, but had no instructions. I was able to piece together enough information from various forums and came up with a working solution for anybody that is interested. I have attached a diagram for making the connections. I tapped off the power lock in the tailgate and used a T-connector to tap power from the trailer wiring. T-Connector: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009FJ38Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Video showing it working: The PAC TR-7 counts a set number of pulses within a defined time. When it detects the programmed number of pulses, it sends a pulse to the actuators to open the tailgate. I have mine set to count four pulses in three seconds. Parts needed: 2 Heavy Duty power door lock actuators 2 Bosch style relays PAC TR-7 Wire The major hurdle was that the power lock system is "energized" at six volts and sends a 12 volt pulse for locking/unlocking. The PAC module detects the 6 volts as a "pulse" and thus would lock out the timer. So it would open the tailgate every fourth or whatever number that was set. Using 2 relays solved this problem.
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