Ad: https://wenatchee.craigslist.org/cto/d/2006-chevrolet-suburban/6756636859.html VIN# 1gnfk16u76j167986 The oil pressure issues combined with the lifter issue screams oil screen. Or the motor is shot.......
I'm thinking about buying this rig. Its advertised as "Needs oil pump". Might be worth picking up, if it has the oil screen. If it does not have the screen, then its probably bad bearings or something.
2006 6 liter V8 Vortex Chevy Suburban Hi, Does anyone know if that rig would have a oil screen that sits below the oil pressure sender? "Needs oil pump". Maybe just the oil screen, or? (Nor referring to the pickup screen in the pan)
Assuming that there were no injuries or lawsuits, I would be very pleased if that happened to by vehicle. The insurance company blue books it, and I get a big payday. Then I would buy the vehicle back from the insurance company super cheap. If the airbags did not deploy, then the repair process would be very easy. You wind up with a salvage title, and a bunch of cash. Not everyone would do the same thing I would. Yes, there are drawbacks. A salvage title is not ideal. Not everyone would be able to fix that car. The vehicle would not be a safe as it was originally. Who knows, maybe the airbags are defective. Either way, I would still collect the cash and fix the rig. It was a lot of labor, but I bought this rig for $100, and spent $250 on parts fixing it: P.S. No airbag deployment on this rig either.
This is just a guess. Possibly an intermittent issue with the throttle body / throttle position sensor? If the TPS info is not matching the actual throttle plate position - it would cause significant problems, and may not throw a code. You can use testers to monitor the TPS info, then watch the throttle plate to see if it matches.
starman8tdc replied to AKA SIR's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraI don't know if this applies to yours, but some rigs have the AM antennas built into the windshield. If that is the case on your rig - there may be some sort of issue with it. A few tests: Does the system work with any other inputs, such as Bluetooth or CD? You could try removing the head unit, and plugging in an after market antenna. They sell them for around $20 at Walmart. You could unplug the battery for a few minutes to reset the system. A few good firm slaps on the dash above the stereo?
When I broke mine, the knees were on the core support, and I had my weight on my left hand, changing spark plugs with the right. My left hand slipped and the hose was the thing that my hand found to stop my sudden decent. I heard a snap, followed by fluid dripping on the floor. You make a lot of valid points about metal VS plastic. Your comments have made me question which is the better option. Each side has its ups and downs.
It is possible for the starter to cause electrical problems, but I think it would probably have to short out internally, combined with a simultaneous solenoid failure resulting in a "stuck on" position. This would kill you battery pretty quickly. If you want eliminate the starter as a possible cause, you could disconnect the wires from the starter, and turn the ignition on. If everything works perfectly on the dash, reconnect the starter and check the dash again. You can also bench test the starter by using a car battery and jumper cables. Or you can test the stater in the vehicle by crossing the terminals with a screw driver.
I hate to say it, but you might be looking at a diagnostic shop. Running low on options. If you go down that path, try to find one that will guarantee a diagnosis without exceeding 1 hour ($100-$150). Most won't, but some will. Some repair shops will charge you $900 in diagnostics, and then say it needs a $1200 part. Then $2100 later, the problem is still there. Then they say: Oh, well that part needed to be replaced, but there must be another part that is bad as well. We will put our diagnostic guys back on it (after you pay this first bill). I have seen people spend thousands on diagnostics and parts, with no remedy. Not trying to scare you, just trying to caution you. Call 5 or 6 shops and talk to them a bit before you choose one. If I can think of any other tests you could try, I will post it. Good luck. P.S. https://repairpal.com/obd-ii-code-u0100-lost-communication-with-ecm-pcm-a https://www.obd-codes.com/u0100
If everything electrical looks good, I would remove the ECU and "smell it". Does it produce an odor of burnt electronics? Is it wet? Any signs of heat damage to the outer case? Also, you could clean the connections to the ECU, and maybe throw some dialectic grease at it.
Hmm. That's a tough one. You could have an internal alternator fault. You might try disconnecting it, to see if that helps. To check your ground, you can take a small wire and attach it to the negative battery terminal (not the cable, but the actual terminal itself), with both cables hooked up to the battery. Then connect that small wire to the body and the engine. Then start using electrical stuff, like the starter, head lights, etc. If the small wire gets warm or hot, or the electrical components work properly, then you definitely have a ground issue. I would also grab a volt meter, and start probing stuff. If you put the negative probe on the negative battery terminal, and probe the brake light or headlights (when they are tuned on), are you getting 12+? If so, is it constant or does the voltage wander around? You might also look at any fuseable links and any main power relays. You can swap relays around to test them. Wiring is not much fun....
I have had a fair amount of experience with these connectors - sorry for the long post I have replaced lots of them on other people vehicles after they complained about water leaks, overheating, or poor heater function. I even broke one on my own vehicle one time. I was changing spark plugs and slipped - my hand hit the heater hose - which broke the connector. At first I was not happy about it. I thought "what a stupid design, why not connect the hose directly to the heater core - or at least make the connector out of metal!". Then I remembered working on older cars. Vehicles in the past did not use any connector at all. They just clamped the hose directly to the heater core, but there were several issues associated with that. Due to the heat and pressure, the hose gets "stuck" on the heater core. When you try to remove it, your twisting and pulling on the hose, which would often damage the heater core solder which resulted in a leak. Now your changing a heater core - which can be extremely difficult and/or expensive. So the only way to prevent this was to cut a slit down the heater hose, and peel it off of the heater core tube. Sometimes the tube had bits of rubber stick to it that were hard to remove. Sometimes the knife would scratch the heater core tube which made it difficult to get a good seal on the new hose. Another problem was that the hose clamp would sometimes crush or deform the heater core tube. Even if everything went well during the removal, your hose gets a few inches shorter every time you cut it off of the heater core. With the quick connector that GM is using, the heater core is very well protected. No more broken solder on the heater core, no crushed or scratched heater core tubes, no more fighting with stuck hoses, and its actually a lot faster to disconnect the tubes using these connectors. The biggest advantage is that if someone slips and lands on a heater hose (like I did), the connector simply snaps off rather than bending or breaking the heater core. If I had metal heater hose connectors on my rig (or hose clamped), there would have been a very good chance that the heater core would have been damaged. The plastic connector is a great fail - safe, and they are very inexpensive. If one breaks, just replace them both. Keep a couple extra connectors and the removal tool in your truck's tool box. If yours ever break, or even someone else's - you will be able to save the day in just a few minutes time. Another way to help protect these plastic connectors, is to secure the heater hoses to inner fender. That will prevent the hose from moving back and fourth as the motor moves under load. It will also help keep the hoses from bouncing around and putting stress on the plastic when you go over speed bumps. Constant movement of the hoses can eventually wear out the O-ring inside the connector, resulting in a leak. What ever you do, don't break that heater core. They are very brittle.
Does you vehicle have an oil pressure sender screen? If so, did you check it? It is difficult to remove and does not come out with the sender. You need a dental pick or other similar tool to remove it. Even if they have a good warranty, they are often incompetent. Many mechanics over charge, fix things that were not broken, break things that were not broken, improperly diagnose items, throw parts at vehicles, etc etc etc. I have not been to a mechanic in many years. I fix it my self. If I cant fix it, then I lean how do it and then I go buy the tools - then I fix it.
starman8tdc replied to RanchTruck's topic in 2000-2014 Silverado & Sierra HDThe engine revving a little when you shift though the gears means that the computer thinks you are shifting. The computer gives it a little extra throttle when it thinks you are in gear, to keep the idle at the proper level despite the slight drag caused by the transmission clutches. Check the transmission fluid level, as low fluid could cause the transmission not to respond. Is the transmission fluid bright pink, or dark brown? Does the fluid have debris in it? Does it small burnt? To check thew linkage, see if the "PARK" gear can be engaged / disengaged. If so, your linage is at least partially functional. An electrical short in the wires related to the ignition (while the truck is running) can cause the check engine light to come on, and severally damage the transmission. Throttle body problems can cause the transmission to malfunction. During your repairs, is there any chance you neglected to plug all the connectors back into the throttle body? Make sure that your transfer case is in a gear. If its in neutral, you will lose all of the gears, including "PARK". Try different transfer case ranges. This one sounds stupid, but we are brainstorming here: Check the driveshaft. Did someone steal your drive shaft? Is it spinning when you are in gear (blown diff).
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