Supreme Pizza

I usually just leave the old lines in place, and run the new lines along side them. You can spray the new lines with rust inhibitor once per year to keep them from rusting out. To post the picture, try this: Get the image on your screen, and then hold down "Control" and press "print screen" - which is located to the right of F12. Then open Microsoft paint, and select "Paste". Now just save the file to the desktop, and upload to the site.

Do you know if your engine has direct injection or port injection? If its direct injection, then the install time would be a bit longer, but still - the bill is extremely high. Your right, the dealership charges a lot. I'm glad to hear that you didn't have to pay for it.

The new design doesn't look difficult to work on, but it would be a little more time consuming to repair. Pulling those injectors looks like it would be about the same as replacing the knock sensors on a 5.3L (generation 3). Looks like some of the direct injection engines have specially designed pistons as well. From what i'm seeing, some vehicles have both direct and port injectors on the same cylinders. I look forward to working on one, it would be an interesting engine to take apart. Check out the pics:

I have not worked on fuel injectors that were that new. Sounds interesting. Can you post pics?

4.6 hours? WOW! I have never seen any injectors that were not easily accessible. Learn something every day. Any chance you could upload some pics or repair instructions? As for the more expensive injectors, I would not go that route - but that's just me. I have had good luck with the cheap injectors on many rigs.

Hi, Well - basically a catch can reduces the amount of oil that enters your cylinders. An OEM engine sucks the oil fumes from the crank case into the intake (usually via the PCV valve), and burns those fumes in the combustion process. The oil fumes stick to everything, and forms carbon deposits on the piston and head. That carbon can cause pinging (detonation), spark plug damage, piston slap, and so on. The catch can is a "filter" to remove the oil from the crank case vent fumes, before those fumes enter the intake plenum. The catch can needs to be emptied every so often, which is easy to do. Here are some pics and a link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Square-Oil-Catch-Can-Reservoir-Tank-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-Lancer-Evo-Dsm/370907880575?hash=item565bd51c7f%3Ag%3A-pkAAOSw2FVbRpFR%3Asc%3AUSPSPriorityFlatRateEnvelope!98292!US!-1&_sacat=0&_nkw=chrome+catch+can&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR11.TRC2.A0.H0.Xchrome+catch+can.TRS1.TSS0

$2,600 to have your fuel injectors replaced? The labor is about ...... 30 minutes total? Parts: $35 total for all 8 injectors, with free shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/12613412-8pcs-Fuel-Injector-For-Chevolet-Express-Silverado-Suburban-2010-2018/112935653503?fits=Year%3A2014|Make%3AChevrolet|Model%3ASilverado+2500&epid=18010376600&hash=item1a4b7d507f%3Ag%3AvAoAAOSwPapbE6CX&_sop=15&_sacat=0&_nkw=2014+Chevy+Silverado+fuel+injectors+8&LH_ItemCondition=3&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0

If there is carbon deposits on your pistons that is smashing the spark plugs, I would either use SeaFoam to steam clean the pistons, or stick something in the spark plug hole to scrape the piston clean, or get a comparable plug that has slightly shorter thread depth. After that, get yourself a catch-can to prevent this from happening again. I just replaced a newer Chevy truck motor, and I was amazed how much oil was in the intake plenum and intake ports in the head. That all turns into carbon the the pistons and head. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Square-Oil-Catch-Can-Reservoir-Tank-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-Lancer-Evo-Dsm/370907880575?hash=item565bd51c7f:g:hvsAAOSwVtZaFcBk:sc:USPSPriorityMailPaddedFlatRateEnvelope!98292!US!-1

Its very easy to pull the intake, and the gaskets are reusable. 10 bolts, a few wires, and the fuel line. You can get it off in 20 minutes. At that point, the fuel line bracket is extremely easy to remove.

Yep, sitting at the dealer sucks. I needed 2 recall items taken care of (free repair). I called and made an appointment. I was told it would take an hour total to fix both items. I was there for 4 hours, and they only addressed 1 of the items. They said they have to close now, but that I can bring the vehicle back another time if I would like. I was not happy.

Obviously the oil topic is endless, but rather than gambling with expensive 7K, 10K,15K or 20K oil changes, why not just use Supertech synthetic oil every 3K miles for $13 a pop? Its way cheaper in the long run, and guarantees success. Why roll the dice on a $70, 20K mile oil change? For the same price, you can change your synthetic oil 7 times, for the same money.

Over working injectors? That doesn't sound right at all.

You might be able to return to the dealer and speak with the manager. There is always a chance that he will go against company policy and compensate you in some way. Maybe by checking their work for free, or something like that.

I'm 2990 miles away from your zip code. About 45 hours drive time. I would would definitely avoid the dealer at all costs. If you own a VERY new vehicle, then they know that you have money to spend, and are willing to spend it. Your best bet would be to take it to local diagnostic shops and ask for free estimates to repair it. If they wont do a free repair estimate, then move on to the next place. You will find one that will check out the vehicle for free, and say YES - we can fix that for X number of dollars. Then say this: So if you work on it and the problem remains, my bill is $0.00, correct? If they agree to this, then you have found a competent repair shop. If they say you will have to pay regardless of the outcome, then they simply want your money and have no confidence in their diagnostic. You can pay with cash, or you can pay with time. Time always has better results, and it will save you thousands.

I'm sorry to hear of your troubles. READY ! SET !! RANT !!!!!!! I do not understand why repair shops think they can charge you for no results. Doctors are the exact same. I hate automotive repair shops and I hate medical clinics. When I work on peoples vehicles, if I do not solve the problem, then the bill is $0.00, regardless of how many parts I put on the rig. You are paying me to FIX your vehicle, not to bolt on unnecessary parts. I offer free mobile service, free diagnostics, and free estimates. If I misdiagnose the problem and replace the wrong parts, then why should you have to pay for my incompetence? For hourly rates, why should a slow lazy mechanic get paid more than a fast mechanic? I do not charge by the hour, I charge by the job. I offer a best price guarantee. If you can provide a local repair shop quote that is for less, then I will beat it by 50% on average. Most repair shops have one goal: GET YOUR MONEY. Period. They don't care about fixing your vehicle at all. If they fix the problem with your car, they lose a return customer. I became a mechanic to combat these problems. Now I have way too many customers. I do not give out business cards, I do not advertise, and I would really appreciate it if people would stop referring me to their friends. All I ever do is works on cars anymore. I never wanted to be this busy. My billing is usually 15 to 30 days behind, due to a lack of time or necessity. Sometimes they receive a free radar detector or Leatherman multi-tool, rather than a repair bill. If you are a fair honest mechanic, you will never have a lack of customers or a lack of money. Most people are sharks. That's why I hate most people. The rant is over.......

How much did they charge you to do nothing? $1200?

I just removed that same bracket today. Not easy to get to, but it can be done in about 10 minutes with lots of extensions. No need to pull the drive-line.

Ya, that's true. The oil filter looks like it has been on there for several years though.

I'm in the middle of replacing an engine in someones 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3L. The engine has a bad rod knock, and blows blue smoke. Its a 10 year old vehicle, with a little over 100K on the odometer - so obviously not a manufacturer defect. Aside from insufficient oil maintenance, what else could cause such a failure? One of my Suburbans has over 250K miles on the engine, and it runs perfect. No odd noises and doesn't burn any oil. Always had the oil changed at 3,000 miles.

Car manufacturers are in the business of making money. They spend hundreds of millions of dollars paying "think tanks" to figure out how to make them even more money. The end product is of no concern. If they were allowed to manufacture money printing machines, they would immediately stop production, service, and support for all of the automotive lines. Its all about the money. As it should be. Its not a charity. Sad but true.

It took me a bit to figure it out, but it turns out that on my rig, I do not have an "AC ON" button. Turns out that the button is actually an "AC OFF" button. I would have the A/C off and I would get cold air. When the A/C was turned on, I got luke warm air. I was not using the controls correctly. Perhaps this is a common issue?

I enjoy changing my oil. I like working on mechanical things, and I love doing preventative maintenance. I find it to be entertaining. I would change the synthetic oil every 1,000 miles if it would not be ridiculous to do so.

Limited to 7,500 miles? I wonder if that was a precautionary measure or if it was a necessity to reduce warranty claims.

How does the system work? I'm sure most of you already know this, but for those of you that don't : The GM Oil Life Monitor System is not a mileage counter or any kind of "oil sensor". It is actually a computer based software algorithm that determines when to change oil based on engine operating conditions. The computer program has no idea what brand, quality, or weight of oil you are using, and there is no actual oil condition sensor of any kind. You could replace your engine oil with grape juice, and it would not change the computers oil life estimates at all. If there was some sort of actual oil integrity sensor, I would feel more comfortable using that system.

Why not just scrap the OEM routing design, and just make a new plan? Leave the old lines in place.