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Problem solved. Apparently the shocks were not functioning at all, due to the lift. Once I installed these, the vehicle feels totally normal, the way it did before the lift. Anyone wanting an inexpensive 2.5" lift, spacers are the way to go. The entire lift costed less than $100.

Hi. Picked up an '08 Suburban. Installed a 2.5" spacer kit front and rear. Front is fine, but the rear has some issues. The rear end feels less stable, and the shocks max out over bumps - which was not unexpected. I ordered some shock mount extenders for the rear. I'm curious about the sway bar / stabilizer bar end links. On a 2.5 inch lift, should the end links be replaced with longer ones? Any info about this would be appreciated. Obviously there are lots of ways to throw money at a rig, but I'm trying to keep it cheap. The whole rig cost less than $3K, so I don't want to spend a lot on upgrades. Thanks for your input.

It is possible for the starter to cause electrical problems, but I think it would probably have to short out internally, combined with a simultaneous solenoid failure resulting in a "stuck on" position. This would kill you battery pretty quickly. If you want eliminate the starter as a possible cause, you could disconnect the wires from the starter, and turn the ignition on. If everything works perfectly on the dash, reconnect the starter and check the dash again. You can also bench test the starter by using a car battery and jumper cables. Or you can test the stater in the vehicle by crossing the terminals with a screw driver.

I hate to say it, but you might be looking at a diagnostic shop. Running low on options. If you go down that path, try to find one that will guarantee a diagnosis without exceeding 1 hour ($100-$150). Most won't, but some will. Some repair shops will charge you $900 in diagnostics, and then say it needs a $1200 part. Then $2100 later, the problem is still there. Then they say: Oh, well that part needed to be replaced, but there must be another part that is bad as well. We will put our diagnostic guys back on it (after you pay this first bill). I have seen people spend thousands on diagnostics and parts, with no remedy. Not trying to scare you, just trying to caution you. Call 5 or 6 shops and talk to them a bit before you choose one. If I can think of any other tests you could try, I will post it. Good luck. P.S. https://repairpal.com/obd-ii-code-u0100-lost-communication-with-ecm-pcm-a https://www.obd-codes.com/u0100

If everything electrical looks good, I would remove the ECU and "smell it". Does it produce an odor of burnt electronics? Is it wet? Any signs of heat damage to the outer case? Also, you could clean the connections to the ECU, and maybe throw some dialectic grease at it.

Hmm. That's a tough one. You could have an internal alternator fault. You might try disconnecting it, to see if that helps. To check your ground, you can take a small wire and attach it to the negative battery terminal (not the cable, but the actual terminal itself), with both cables hooked up to the battery. Then connect that small wire to the body and the engine. Then start using electrical stuff, like the starter, head lights, etc. If the small wire gets warm or hot, or the electrical components work properly, then you definitely have a ground issue. I would also grab a volt meter, and start probing stuff. If you put the negative probe on the negative battery terminal, and probe the brake light or headlights (when they are tuned on), are you getting 12+? If so, is it constant or does the voltage wander around? You might also look at any fuseable links and any main power relays. You can swap relays around to test them. Wiring is not much fun....

Does you vehicle have an oil pressure sender screen? If so, did you check it? It is difficult to remove and does not come out with the sender. You need a dental pick or other similar tool to remove it. Even if they have a good warranty, they are often incompetent. Many mechanics over charge, fix things that were not broken, break things that were not broken, improperly diagnose items, throw parts at vehicles, etc etc etc. I have not been to a mechanic in many years. I fix it my self. If I cant fix it, then I lean how do it and then I go buy the tools - then I fix it.

No idea if your rig has this configuration or not, but could it be the plugged oil sender screen?

I would have Texas Speed double check their work for free. Assuming the programming is good, I would look at the fuel system. Is the fuel pump coming on? Is the fuel filter plugged? Is the fuel pressure regulator working? Do you have good fuel pressure? Are the fuel injectors "firing"?

The labor should be in the hundreds, not in the thousands. Call 10 repair shops, and go with the cheapest one that is reputable. If it takes you an hour on the phone, and it saves you $2,000 - then you just got paid $2,000 per hour to make phone calls. Sounds like a good job to me.

I would look through the user preferences. You might be able to select that.

I have the same issue after replacing all of the front end parts. Had it aligned at a shop. It is somewhat mild, and I only notice at one particular spot on a certain road than has sudden abrupt elevation changes. As the suspension compresses, it pulls the steering wheel to the left, and when the suspension returns to the normal position, the wheels pulls to the right, and then centers out. I have not attempted to diagnose the issue, but I can say that the pitman arm did not "go on" as far as the OEM one did. The new pitman arm sits about 1/2 to 3/4 inch lower on the splines.

I would replace the oil pressure sending unit. I would also change the oil weight to the "heaviest" allowable. Swap out the oil filter to EOM recommended. If that does not solve the problem, I would throw a manual oil pressure gauge at it. If the manual gauge reads intermittently low, I would add an extra 2 or 3 quarts of oil to the crank, to see if the pickup tube seal is the issue. If that didn't work, I would seriously consider replacing the oil pump. You could also start cutting your oil filter open in an attempt to find debris.

You could try adding a quart of transmission fluid to the crank case and let it run for 15 minutes. The high levels of detergent in trans fluid will often free up sticky lifters. I would be hesitant to add the trans fluid to something that new though. Its mainly used on old engines as a last ditch effort before tearing the motor apart. If its a 2018 model, is there a warranty to resolve the issue?

Could be a defective oil filter. The oil filter has a type of "check valve" to keep the oil where it is supposed to be. If the oil filter is allowing the oil to drain down into the pan, then it would cause the top end to run dry for the first few seconds of startup. To test this theory, you could replace the filter. You could also start the truck, pull the fuel pump relay and allow the motor to die. Then let the truck sit for 4 hours. Crank the engine for 15 seconds (build up oil pressure). Replace relay >> start engine. Is the sound still there?

If the battery was completely dead, you would not be getting any "service 4x4" messages. Try turning on the headlights - are they real bright or are they dim? Do they come on at all? Sounds like you may have unplugged a wire or two when you took the dash apart.

Not looking for a debate. Just replying to a post. Obviously not everyone will agree, otherwise - leasing would not be an available option. If it was the BEST option available, then EVERYONE would lease. To each their own. For me it doesn't make sense, for you it does. Do what makes ya happy. That's all that matters.

I have not read all the replies, but I did read the original question. Leasing is a complete waste of money. The idea of leasing was not invented for your benefit. You spend a bunch of money, and in the end you lose your vehicle. If you decide to buy the vehicle in the end, your still WAY over paying if you consider the lease cost + buy out option. Buy a used vehicle, and save many thousands. Plus you get to keep the rig....

I would try re-setting it. Is there a master re-set option in the menu?

If you are desperate to get the vehicle moving, you could possibly remove the rear drive shaft in put it in 4x4, but I would not recommend it - unless there is volcano or a zombie apocalypse. As for what you can swap out without mods, I have no idea. You might be able to fix your rear end though. What exactly is wrong with it?

On Car-part.com, I see one as low as $200. You would have to input your specs though, as there are about 40 different vehicle options to choose from for that year/make/model. Rear Axle Assembly Chevy Truck Silverado 1500 Crew Cab, 6 lug wheel, 3.23 ratio (opt GU5),4X2,locker-193K 193,000 B 223902 $200 Del City Pickup Parts USA-OK(Del-City) Request_Quote 1-800-701-5969 / 1-405-677-2431 Request_Insurance_Quote

Did you try looking for something on Craigslist? eBay? Car-Part.com?

Try removing the filter. It could be defective. A loose seam "flapp'n in the wind".

Is the emergency brake working? If you set the brake, and put the vehicle in gear, does it roll forward? If you give it a little gas, does it move easily? If the parking brake is not working, then it may be out of adjustment, which can contribute to the peddle issue. A broken e-brake cable will definitely cause the peddle to not come up all the way - I just had it happen to me. I fixed it for about $8. A possible solution would be to attach a small spring to the peddle, and hook the other end to the under dash area.