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5 G's, ya I guess I could see that it its in real good shape. No bald tires or huge oil leaks or anything... I would show up and do a full vehicle inspection, and point out anything you can find. Scan the computer, crawl around underneath, etc. Then I would hold out a stack of $100 bills, and for this rig and with the problems that I found - I can offer $3500 cash today if you have the title. Anyway, all that aside - I would look for oil containers int he vehicle. If you find some - it uses oil. For the transmission, if the fluid level is over full, then someone was putting additives in to hide a problem. For cold start knock, just ask them to let it it sit overnight without starting it so you can cold start it. Then when you arrive, feel the exhaust manifolds, and stick your finger in the radiator to see if there is any heat. For the transmission type, you could email the VIN number to GM to get a build sheet. Might not be the stock trans though, so you could go under the rig and Google the numbers off of the trans.

When you reconnect the battery, it tries to start by itself 3 times in a row? That sounds like you have an OEM or aftermarket remote start system that is not working properly. You may have a bad "computer". I would not replace any more parts without having a diagnosis. Its easy to spend $500 on parts that don't fix the problem, and a diagnostic only costs $100. What ever parts you put on, take them back off and return them if they didn't solve the problem. Then take that money and pay the dealer or a GOOD local shop to do a 1 hour diagnosis - just to see what they can come up with.

So this 2001 Yukon XL SLT 2500 with 265k miles... How much are they asking for it, out of curiosity?

If your getting an 8.8 amp draw from the PCM, with the keys out of the ignition, then I would assume there is an electrical issue of some sort. Perhaps the PCM did not power something down properly. If it caused the truck to stall, then perhaps the PCM itself is failing. I would check for any OBD2 trouble codes. You could try disconnecting the battery, and then the PCM, and then re-connecting the PCM, then reconnect the battery. They will reset everything as much as possible without special tools, and it will also check the connections on those items.

Haha, Ya, you should check your oil more often. I check it every time I fill the fuel, on every rig I own.

Well, lets see. Could be a problem with the diff, could be an over or under inflated tire, could be an alignment issue, could be a sticky caliper, or maybe .. Uh.... Bent frame? Taking it back to the shop would be a good place to start. Ask them to double check their work and to test drive the vehicle, which should all be free.

Every 2002+ full size Chevy that I have owned made noise in the front end from time to time. Kinda of a rubbing / light popping sound when you turn the wheel. Others have said the same. Doesn't happen all the time, but it happens.

Backfiring out of the intake indicates that the engine is getting too much fuel. For instance, if your fuel system is working properly, and you add more fuel - its too rich and will pop out of the intake. A 5.3 that wont run can be frustrating, but its also very interesting to mechanics, because it can be easily solved if you eliminate the possible issues. Normally the problems that mechanics face are not usually so strait forward. You do not need a throttle body to make an engine run. You do not need an exhaust system either. Don't bother replacing any of that stuff until you find the problem. Does it have compression? Does it have spark? Is it getting air? Is it getting fuel? A non running motor falls back to the very basics of engine diagnostics.

I would agree with that. Although that would make things easier. P0300 Engine random misfire .... So...replace the engine?

To evaluate the fuel system: Check or replace the spark plugs. Move the vehicle outside. Disable the fuel pump. Remove the tube from the air filter box. Have a garden hose or fire extinguisher handy. Have a helper crank the engine over using the ignition key. As its turning over, spray starting fluid into the intake tube from a 90 degree angle. Start with "not enough starting fluid", and increase the volume gradually. (avoid fouling plugs this way) Attempt to keep the truck running by adjusting the shot of starting fluid. If you can make the truck run, and stay running just by going "puff puff puff" with starting fluid, then your truck has a fuel problem. If that doesn't work, then you do not have a fuel problem. Your are basically replacing the fuel system, to eliminate it as the possible problem. Don't stand directly in front of the intake tube while blasting it with starting fluid. Otherwise, if that puppy backfires out the intake, you will lose your eyelashes.

Fuel Spark Timing Compression Diagnostics is mainly about eliminating possible causes, until you find the culprit.

Are you getting water puddles on the ground? If not, then I would guess that its air bubbles being flushed through the heater core. The increase in RPM's when you hit the gas will increase the flow rate and volume of fluid thought the heater core. Any air bubbles will be make noise like water flushing through a rain gutter. New rig, so it might have a little bit of left over air in the cooling system.

I too agree that block sealer is a good start. $10 to $50 in parts. Pulling the head to replace the gasket is not difficult, I just did one the other day. $50 to $100 in parts. You can do the repair in the driveway, with basic hand tools and a torque wrench. It would take a pro mechanic a few hours to do. A novice could do it in a couple afternoons of wrenching. If you are really worried about warped heads, you could have yours machined and/or pressure tested. Many shops will charge you $2500 to $3500 to replace the head gasket(s), but if you shop around, you can find someone to do it MUCH cheaper. Check online for mobile mechanics. Craigslist for instance. If you hire someone to do it, don't pay in advance - and make sure they have all the tools and proper torque specs. Once the repair is done, drive it around for a bit and make sure everything looks OK before you pay. (they need to agree to this before the job is started) Sounds like you really want to drop a different motor in though, and that is your prerogative. Do what every makes you a happy person. As far as a replacement motor is concerned, I would get one on eBay. many sellers offer a warranty that INCLUDES replacement labor. Once you buy the motor and have it installed, if it turns out to be defective within the warranty period, not only will they ship you another motor for free - but they will also refund you like $1,000 to cover the motor swap labor. Obviously they test the motors thoroughly before they sell them, so that they don't have to lose money on the sale.

Ya, maybe the CV. It would be worth looking for any torn or leaking CV boots.

That is an incredibly thorough, informative and LONG video. It has pretty much everything there is to know about... Spark plug wires.... I guess every mechanic should watch that video all the way through, at least once in their life. Kinda reminded me of the Auto Shop 101 classes, back in the day.

But anyway, I only mentioned the vibration on my rig as a general reference. Once I check mine out thoroughly, I will make a separate post about my rig - if I cant track down the issue. I didn't mean to change the direction of the post. Lets talk about that guys 2013 2500HD instead.

If the hub had any less play, then it would not be noticeable at all - but I still plan to replace it anyway. I need the rig to be RELIABLE. As for tires, I swapped out 3 different sets. No change. I have lots of spare tires and wheels that are already mounted and balanced, which is convenient for diagnostics. No vibration on neutral rev. The brakes are all new. Les Schwab replaced them just before I got the rig. I could take a look at the alternator, it certainly couldn't hurt to check it out. I am currently running Mud Terrain tires, which completely drowns out any other sounds - so I will need to swap them back to the All Terrain tires, for diagnostic purposes. Drive shafts are solid, if memory serves - but I will double check them when I check fluid levels of the diffs and T-case.

When I have an issues on one cylinder - I check the compression on that cylinder. (100lbs minimum for it to fire reliably). Then I swap the fuel injector, spark plug, spark plug wire, and ignition coil to another cylinder. If the problem follows the parts, then you know its either fuel, or spark. So then you move the injector again to the next cylinder, and see of the problems stays with the ignition parts or follows the fuel injector. Its just as effective as "throwing" new parts at the truck, but its free and much less time consuming. I tracked it down to being a bad spark plug and/or a bad spark plug wire on a PT Cruiser the other day (check engine light, accompanied by a P0303). I replaced them both just to save time. I had both on hand, so why bother testing any further. Then I cleared the codes, and it was good to go. Swapping injectors and coils around sounds hard to some people, but its not. You only need a couple basic hand tools and 10 or 15 minutes of time.

Bad bearings in the engine fan clutch?

Although it may be mis-categorized, the problem sounds fairly universal. For instance, if you have a bent rim, bad u-joint, or a loose plastic bumper cover - any category will work for that kind of thing. Doesn't really matter what engine you have if the problem is related to the hood latch being loose. By the way - when I drive between 70 and 75, I get a ... vibration, or "rumble" that goes away at higher or lower speeds. I tried a couple quick fixes I fixed the loose rear bumper cover - nope, didn't solve the problem. Tires balanced, nope. Swapped wheels/tires, nope. Checked front hubs - driver side has very small amount of play. Might have to replace that hub..... Sunroof hops up and down rapidly at certain speeds - the prime suspect. I will test that theory next.

Sounds like it all worked out well.

I have had several full size Chevys. They usually read empty on the gauge or trigger the fuel light when there is anywhere between 1 and 4 gallons left in the tank. I used to keep a can of gas at home just in case I was getting too low. Now I just fill the tank any time its at 50% or less - which have proven to work very well for me. Keeping the gas tank empty or keeping it full costs the same amount of money in the long run, and a full tank is far less stressful than an empty one.

For parts interchange, you can go to eBay and look up a part. They have an interchange program. Most listings will list every possible vehicle that the part will fit, or you can enter the vehicle info to confirm. You can also look up the specific part on Amazon and it will tell you if the part is compatible with your rig. This may not apply to your situation, but it is a resource.

Hmm. Strange. I would try to isolate it by eliminating the symptoms. Under what condition does the sound go away? Try driving it in 4x4 mode. Try shifting to neutral Try shutting the engine off and coasting Try higher RPM ranges, by selecting a lower gear Try compression braking Try it in 4x4 low range Might want to shake down the whole rig. CV axles, drive shafts, front hubs, rear outer axle bearings, engine fan clutch, etc. You could also check the level and condition of your diffs, T-case, etc. If you put the rear axle on jack stands, does it still make the sound? If you put all 4 corners on jack stands, and run it in 4x4, does it still make the sound? When your under the rig with a mechanics stethoscope listening for stuff, the sound you really don't want to hear is the automatic locks activating. So if your rig automatically locks the doors when you reach a certain speed, you would want to roll the windows down or turn that function off before you start the engine - if your up on jack stands.

If you bought the plug wires on Amazon, they will often refund you without even wanting the parts back. Where ever you got them - I would ask for a refund or replacement. You could always test your old plug wires. You use a digital volt meter to check the resistance on each wire. They are all the same length, so all the values should be about the same. If one wire has a lot more resistance, or the numbers are all over the place on every wire - then its time for a new set. The exact resistance value may be different with different types or brands of wires, but they should always be consistent when compared to each other - like cylinder compression. 5.3L Plug wire prices: eBay $22 Amazon $25 OEM on Amazon $42 I recently bought a cheap set of plug wires on eBay just to get the heat shields. Who ever had the rig before me put new plug wires on it, but the heat shields were missing. I could not find a lower price for just the heat shields themselves. So after taking the heat shields off, I gave the plug wires away because my current ones were of higher quality - and will likely last longer than I need. As far as the busted plugs go, I have found that as long as I have the rubber insert in the plug socket, and I place one hand one the ratchet head to stabilize it, I never accidentally break plugs. Sometimes they are already cracked though and just fall apart no matter what. As for gap, I have read that too large of gap will put extra strain on the coil, and can cause misfires - especially if the plug wires are not in good condition. A large gap makes it harder for the spark to make the jump.