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You might be able to fish the foam out with a bent up coat hanger. A mirror, flashlight, and a beer might b e helpful.

The sound caused by the steering wheel may be related to the clock spring or a similar device. The interference caused by the lights would be .. electromagnetic interference? Either way, if you turn your squelch down, does the sound go away? Might need something to clean up the power that is supplying the radio. A resistor of some sort? Old school spark plug wires would cause this issue on the AM radio.

Another option would be something like this: Link to purchase: https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Charging-Adapter-Samsung-Galaxy/dp/B07SZGB33K/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1I4RJG2OSUAJG&keywords=s7+car+charger&qid=1640241984&sprefix=s7+car+charge%2Caps%2C254&sr=8-4

The picture indicates 12V in , 5V out. So if amps are not an issue, then he could tap most of the fuses in the vehicle to get the needed 12V supply. The cigarette lighter fuse would be ideal. Just make sure you tap the correct side of the fuse. ALL power on that circuit must pass through the 20A fuse. Anything before the fuse would be considered a "short". Also, Its "tap", not "tab". You tap into the wiring. Tab is the brand name of a carbonated beverage.

A bed from another 2002 Silverado extended cab with a 6 ft bed should work. Beyond that, I would get the part number from the Chevy dealer parts department, and then ask them to cross reference it by year make and model. If they ask, just say that your thinking about buying one from them, and you want to know what it will fit. That's all true right? And if they quote a price for $100, then you would buy it, right? So let them do the work, and they might even get a sale in the process. I bought a part at the dealership once, and to my great surprise, they had the best price around! Only $38 for a single idler pulley bearing. But everyone else wanted more. So the dealer worked out just fine on that one. By the way, this happened around the time that Amazon was just coming online. Mid 90's.

Can you please upload a picture of a plugged transmission filter? Can you also show a picture of the inside of the filter, by disassembling the filter? I would like to have it for reference, in case I see a similar problem in the future.

Well said.

I would not replace any parts at this point. Don't guess. You might replace a good part with a defective part - and now you have 2 problems and no idea where or what the problem is. I would suspect that you have a check engine light on. Most auto parts stores can read them for you for free. Even if the CEL light is not on, there can still be pending codes that can be retrieved.

So with the two different kit options, which kit will: Make the fog lights on by the selves when the lights are in "auto mode". and Allow the fog lights and low beams come on at the same time as the high beams. Both kits combined?

Without seeing the actual picture of the problem, its hard to make a recommendation, but the pictures above are some various stripped thread options.

"I see people put "octane booster" or "premium gas" in their crappy cars, hoping it will make them faster or more reliable." How is this statement incorrect in any way? And how would you be able to determine if I have seen people pour octane booster into their Geo Metro, while they were bragging about how much faster it makes their car? Anyway, I would suggest that people do their own research and choose the option that they feel is best. Especially when its something as important as using the correct octane, diet, medical treatments, vehicle to purchase, the best brand of refrigerator, etc. Read the forums, talk to the experts, research all the available information, and draw your own conclusions. Facts and opinions can be a grey area. Interpretation can be a factor as well. Even if one direction is the "correct direction" for most, its not going to be ideal for all. Don't follow anyone's advice, but rather use that advise in combination with your other sources of information in order to make the decision that you feel will suit your needs the best.

A new head unit should be easy to come by. I have a pile of them in my garage, from installing aftermarket ones. Check eBay. Here is one for $99. Might be the wrong model, so double check. https://www.ebay.com/itm/164641278807?hash=item2655628b57:g:4sQAAOSwf1Vf~nnO

Can you attach a pic? Have you tried Helicoil?

I do the AFM delete, as listed above. I also put on Wheel spacers, and lift spacers. I always add a cattle guard and rain gutters. Gotta have the backup cam and in dash DVD of course. I have a hidden kill switch to prevent theft. I also rewire the power outlets so they turn off with the key. And so on...

Have you checked eBay?

For battery connections, you really want to use the proper cleaning tool, and be aggressive with it. The post and the clamp should be 100% clean. I always loosen the clamp more than needed, and then what I do is place the terminal on the post, and put a socket on top that only touches the clamp and not the post. Then I tap the socket, to drive the clamp all the way down the to the bottom of the post. This will spread the clamp open further, allowing the clamp bolt to be tightened more easily and more effectively. Once the clamp bolt is tight, I try to twist the clamp on the battery post. I really give it all I got to try to turn it. If I'm able to turn the clamp at all - then its not a good connection and needs to be reworked again. You should never be able to move the clamp at all by hand. When i was in auto shop, the teacher used to put a strip of paper around the battery terminal, and then install the clamp. Then the newer students would have to figure out why the car would not start. Here is the cleaning tool for under $4. https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-BAF-BI-Terminal-Cleaning-Brush/dp/B0060YHP62/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=battery+post+cleaner&qid=1640221718&sprefix=battery+post+%2Caps%2C416&sr=8-3

For the catch can, its probably not needed, unless you have a lot of blow-by, or the older style valve cover that gets plugged up on the oil return pathways.

Agreed, all that you need to do is program the computer not to use AFM anymore. That alone will greatly reduce the likelihood of lifter failure. If you want to take it a step further, you can pull the valley cover, and drive a metal plug down into the oil pathway that supplies oil to the VLOOM, and then cut sections of the gasket out of the oil pathways between the VLOOM and the head. That will insure that oil pressure doesn't build up in that area (from the opposite direction) and trigger a lifter pin to get jammed in the wrong spot, causing a collapsed AFM lifter. I did all of these steps on mine when I replaced #7 AFM intake lifter. Note, the VLOOM can not be removed from the engine, and you want to leave it plugged in as well - even though its not in use anymore.

My guess is that the transmission is on its way out. I would start shopping about for one. You can get them on eBay and have it installed locally. Maybe not buy it yet, but if you have the best deal researched, then it will save time and money later.

I would not mess around in the HVAC area too much. If you flex something and crack a solder joint on the heater core, its a big job to replace it.

This is a little off topic, but still relevant I think. What I can say for sure, is that there are counterfeit spark plug manufacturers. The plugs are cheap copies and they can fall apart inside your engine, cause major damage. I have bought plugs from eBay that turned out to be fakes. I returned them to the seller, rather than installing them. So what ever plugs you get, just make sure that your plugs are genuine before you install them.

If indeed the truck was phuc'd by a mud puddle, I can see why someone would .. be... "urinated" about it. I think that a vehicle should have basic protections from puddle water. Should it be a law - No..... Should it be standard practice - Yes.

That's a damn shame. A very nice car, destroyed by a deer. They should make it illegal for deer to stand on the road, that should solve the problem. Same theory as "gun control".

They ask for more and then they settle for less. Standard procedure. A recall won't make the lawyers any money and it would cost the manufacturer a lot of money. A settlement will save GM millions and make the lawyers millions. GM saves face, the lawyers buy an island, and the customer gets screwed. If you were the lawyer or the manufacturer, which option would you choose?

Wait a minute. Couldn't you just have your mother in law sit on the hood and then sit on the rear bumper? That would cause any water to flow forwards and backwards. Might damage the shocks, but it is what it is. Aside from all the rolls of fat jiggling and the eye watering flatulence, you should be able to hear any water flowing thought the body panels. Just ask her wear Depend diapers to absorb the urine, so that the sound of the urine flowing out of her shorts doesn't mess up your testing procedure. Don't like that idea? Ya, me neither. If you want to eliminate the "air in the heater core" theory, just pop your serpentine belt off for a quick test. You don't even need any tools. Just grab the belt and pull the slack out of it. Then slowly let the belt retract, while moving it to the side, so it walks itself off the pulley. Takes 24 seconds to remove the belt and disable the water pump, last time I checked. Then start and drive the truck. If the noise gone, then its not a cooling system issue - If the noise is still there, then its nothing to do with the heater core. You can run the motor for 60 seconds without the belt attached, without causing any problems or damage.