Truckboattruck

I'm fine with goin back, actually.

I find it's usually more constructive to concentrate on how to fix an issue rather than whose fault the issue is. If this were the dirtiest I ever got done over a vehicle I'd be smiling. My advice would be to look for a solution from the aftermarket company. Sounds like they are willing to help but like everyone else are drowning in back orders. While it's unremarkable of GM to not fix the problem, frankly they are an OEM who returned your OEM part to OEM specifications. Not trying to throw salt on a wound if I'm stating the obvious, but that's their job. When I crossed over into aftermarket tunes and BCM programming in my other vehicles I break up with the dealer, and it's to avoid problems like the one you are in. Honestly the factory nav is pretty doo doo, I use a proclip mount and Google or Waze on my phone.

Normal. It's so you don't forget about it and gulp a whole tank of gas.

I have them with the standard rotors and they are good. Truck stops, brake dust isn't insane.

4.1 imo, but yea depends on tire size and what you mean by "best".

Mod looks 99% like factory, fits just like factory. I think the aftermarket camera has a flat lens and the factory one was curved. I could be wrong, like I said hard to tell. Pay mind to the white wire to disable camera's native guide lines during install, it is mentioned in the directions. You will have to drop the rear tire, it blocks two clips that route the cable and you'll need to open them up and close them by hand. Also helps if during removal of factory camera you tie the factory plug to the camera side connector of the aftermarket cable, then pull out the factory cable while pulling the aftermarket cable into place for install. Otherwise you will have to snake the aftermarket one through the hole in the bed and the hole in the tailgate from top and bottom which is a PITA. I used a long twist tie. Video quality is an improvement but not substantially. I think it might be a limitation of the screen at this point, but I don't really know. While not a huge improvement, I would say it is worth doing because the factory cam is dangerously close to below minimum viable. I have a Dieselworks autosync that shows the RVC feed when I use my indicators, for that purpose I've gotten some extra utility from the mod so I'm happy with the money spent all things considered. Shame the fidelity isn't better for whatever reason though.

I like my aftermarket upgrades. I don't wanna pay registration and property taxes on a supercharger if I can help it. You know they will make it part of some half cocked expensive upgrade package, too- like you can't get it without track mode (glorified DOD and TC disable), accent lighting, black side mirrors, and "Z##" wheels or something. It might be a $15k+ package and maybe half of it you won't even want. Those kinds of things are more frustrating than exciting for me when comparing new vehicles and prices. That said, Chevy needs a hot truck in their lineup. LT4 6.2 would do it, 650HP factory would be easy and tuneable. Could maybe use ZL1 parts as well. They would probably have to work out a tranny that would go 100k worth of launching a 2.5 ton vehicle though. Maybe some weight reduction and a 10L90, but still a tall order I think. With all the recalls I hope they are making conscious decisions to better proof their "good ideas" these days in any case. I think they should have done a RWD LT4 supercharged Malibu, but hey I like not having a car payment on the other hand.

Thanks. Not gonna wrap anything, but that is good to know about the matching. I have a black steel bumper awaiting install, I hit a deer in my last 1500 so it's a big priority this time.

Had a lot done a lot in the last month or so. Totally new brake system save a few lines, BT Dieselworks autosync, short antenna, APS sidesteps, Morimoto headlights, then had wheels and tires done last week or so. Tried to get Eibach pro truck shocks done today but my lower spring perches are pretty shot so doing Eibach stage 2 kit now. Waiting on good weather to do plugs, wires, tow spec full aluminum radiator, sure-cool valve, black rear bumper, black front bumper, Morimoto fogs, and updated rearview cam. Waiting on parts for DOD delete kit and Circle D converter, also Kryptonite hubs and tie rods to do an offroad spec knuckle conversion with cognito and TTX control arms. When everything mechanical is sorted going to do rust repair/prevention and paint correction with debadge.

I have the heated seats, but I'm second owner and they never worked for me.

Worth noting the recall on vacuum pumps for our trucks any time someone brings up a braking issue. Problem might be piston binding, you can check around their boot with a pick for a visual. If not then caliper hose and/or brake line. I went through something similar recently, it was all three and then some.

I picked up one of those aftermarket cameras as well. Waiting on good weather to swap it in. Factory camera is worthless at night and had enough, but no blurry images due to accessory power for me.

Let's put it this way. OEM that lasted me over 100k...or this other stuff that costs more without comprehensible reason? Just did my plugs, bought OEM iridium and even got an ACD rebate. Truck still starts and I saved beer money to boot. Now wires on the other hand, I would opt for aftermarket ceramic boots given the choice. I went with Accel 9000. Truck still starts, spent my beer money though.

7.3 maybe.

Trash might have been a bit harsh of a term. It's not ugly, seems practical in lay out. All those touch screen buttons though, I just couldn't do it. I'm not totally against touch buttons for configuration menus and settings, but for things you could reasonably want to adjust while driving I always find it really frustrating.