Truckboattruck

I'm fine with goin back, actually.

I find it's usually more constructive to concentrate on how to fix an issue rather than whose fault the issue is. If this were the dirtiest I ever got done over a vehicle I'd be smiling. My advice would be to look for a solution from the aftermarket company. Sounds like they are willing to help but like everyone else are drowning in back orders. While it's unremarkable of GM to not fix the problem, frankly they are an OEM who returned your OEM part to OEM specifications. Not trying to throw salt on a wound if I'm stating the obvious, but that's their job. When I crossed over into aftermarket tunes and BCM programming in my other vehicles I break up with the dealer, and it's to avoid problems like the one you are in. Honestly the factory nav is pretty doo doo, I use a proclip mount and Google or Waze on my phone.

Normal. It's so you don't forget about it and gulp a whole tank of gas.

I have them with the standard rotors and they are good. Truck stops, brake dust isn't insane.

4.1 imo, but yea depends on tire size and what you mean by "best".

Mod looks 99% like factory, fits just like factory. I think the aftermarket camera has a flat lens and the factory one was curved. I could be wrong, like I said hard to tell. Pay mind to the white wire to disable camera's native guide lines during install, it is mentioned in the directions. You will have to drop the rear tire, it blocks two clips that route the cable and you'll need to open them up and close them by hand. Also helps if during removal of factory camera you tie the factory plug to the camera side connector of the aftermarket cable, then pull out the factory cable while pulling the aftermarket cable into place for install. Otherwise you will have to snake the aftermarket one through the hole in the bed and the hole in the tailgate from top and bottom which is a PITA. I used a long twist tie. Video quality is an improvement but not substantially. I think it might be a limitation of the screen at this point, but I don't really know. While not a huge improvement, I would say it is worth doing because the factory cam is dangerously close to below minimum viable. I have a Dieselworks autosync that shows the RVC feed when I use my indicators, for that purpose I've gotten some extra utility from the mod so I'm happy with the money spent all things considered. Shame the fidelity isn't better for whatever reason though.

I like my aftermarket upgrades. I don't wanna pay registration and property taxes on a supercharger if I can help it. You know they will make it part of some half cocked expensive upgrade package, too- like you can't get it without track mode (glorified DOD and TC disable), accent lighting, black side mirrors, and "Z##" wheels or something. It might be a $15k+ package and maybe half of it you won't even want. Those kinds of things are more frustrating than exciting for me when comparing new vehicles and prices. That said, Chevy needs a hot truck in their lineup. LT4 6.2 would do it, 650HP factory would be easy and tuneable. Could maybe use ZL1 parts as well. They would probably have to work out a tranny that would go 100k worth of launching a 2.5 ton vehicle though. Maybe some weight reduction and a 10L90, but still a tall order I think. With all the recalls I hope they are making conscious decisions to better proof their "good ideas" these days in any case. I think they should have done a RWD LT4 supercharged Malibu, but hey I like not having a car payment on the other hand.

Thanks. Not gonna wrap anything, but that is good to know about the matching. I have a black steel bumper awaiting install, I hit a deer in my last 1500 so it's a big priority this time.

Had a lot done a lot in the last month or so. Totally new brake system save a few lines, BT Dieselworks autosync, short antenna, APS sidesteps, Morimoto headlights, then had wheels and tires done last week or so. Tried to get Eibach pro truck shocks done today but my lower spring perches are pretty shot so doing Eibach stage 2 kit now. Waiting on good weather to do plugs, wires, tow spec full aluminum radiator, sure-cool valve, black rear bumper, black front bumper, Morimoto fogs, and updated rearview cam. Waiting on parts for DOD delete kit and Circle D converter, also Kryptonite hubs and tie rods to do an offroad spec knuckle conversion with cognito and TTX control arms. When everything mechanical is sorted going to do rust repair/prevention and paint correction with debadge.

I have the heated seats, but I'm second owner and they never worked for me.

Worth noting the recall on vacuum pumps for our trucks any time someone brings up a braking issue. Problem might be piston binding, you can check around their boot with a pick for a visual. If not then caliper hose and/or brake line. I went through something similar recently, it was all three and then some.

I picked up one of those aftermarket cameras as well. Waiting on good weather to swap it in. Factory camera is worthless at night and had enough, but no blurry images due to accessory power for me.

Let's put it this way. OEM that lasted me over 100k...or this other stuff that costs more without comprehensible reason? Just did my plugs, bought OEM iridium and even got an ACD rebate. Truck still starts and I saved beer money to boot. Now wires on the other hand, I would opt for aftermarket ceramic boots given the choice. I went with Accel 9000. Truck still starts, spent my beer money though.

7.3 maybe.

Trash might have been a bit harsh of a term. It's not ugly, seems practical in lay out. All those touch screen buttons though, I just couldn't do it. I'm not totally against touch buttons for configuration menus and settings, but for things you could reasonably want to adjust while driving I always find it really frustrating.

I won't ever own another vehicle with that many touch buttons, I don't care if it flies and cooks breakfast. I sold my last Ford because of that crap, I cannot stand fumbling around with that BS while keeping my eyes on the road. I can work the entire stereo and HVAC system in my '14 1500 blindfolded and I love it. I didn't even know it was touch screen until yesterday. That new interior is just high order trash to me.

Yea EV companies won't invite hydrogen at all, but I think the long standing automakers would if/when people realize it's actually better than EV if we can use it as we used gas and diesel ICE's. Who knows though, what is best for the customer and what is most profitable can be hard to reconcile in the auto industry these days. Always been a problem to reconcile what is best for the environment and what is profitable when it comes to most industries, too. The whole aspect of charge times and being predisposed to a certain range are the real shortcomings I see with EV, so hybrids of any sort seem like the better option. Until they make batteries for EV you can just hotswap that is, but that would probably be especially expensive. I'm sure these EV trucks will be nice, I just don't find them compelling for my lifestyle or truck needs.

The design is not my thing, I think it looks kinda dopey. I liked the Avalanche, for comparison. Hate the Ridgeline. I think the Chevy current gen ICE trucks look very good in comparison to this. Perhaps the whole form without function front end design changes are polarizing to me, maybe I just think it needs a grill lol. Seems like they are trying to make a truck look like a car, but it comes out as a weird SUV with a bed. As far as performance I think hybrids are cool, but honestly I don't see full electrics going much of anywhere longer term. They can be fun but ownership seems like it would be utilitarian only, so EV trucks probably make a lot of sense for more folks than just a car right now. All that EV tech isn't better for the environment than burning gas or diesel, so I'm not prompted to do it for the warm and fuzzies either. Hopefully viable hydrogen fuel cells or cassettes are brought to market soon, if so the boon of EV vehicles could trickle down into hydrogen hybrid vehicles. That would actually be the best of both worlds- at least outside of widespread fueling infrastructure considerations.

I was going to check out the L86 manifolds and throttle bodies, but didn't know the radiator could be swapped too. That's awesome. Edit: I think I already have that spec rad as it seems to be one for the 5.3L Heavy Tow package, which I just bought a full aluminum version of to retrofit to my non-Z85 and preemptively replace my OEM rad.

Taking notes on those things, thanks. Wish the search function on this forum was worth a spit, I'd have been all over this stuff already. I figured it would be safe to estimate about $12-14K for a pro shop DOD delete and FI ballpark between the blower $6K, fuel pump $300, Katech oil pump $500, LT4 +30% injectors $2.5K, and custom tune $500-800. I already have the lifters and DOD delete kit purchased, which was around $1.3K, so I guess $10K for the blower job rings true to me if outsourced. Might be able to get away with dimpling the factory pump and shimming the valve, and/or getting secondhand injectors. I've never done aftermarket FI though, so I really have no idea. I'm probably wrong and just erring on the side of bring enough to pay so I can play. I've heard folks doing a supercharger specific cam to grant better driveability as well, which I would like to avoid but have no insight on one way or the other.

After thinking about it more I will probably just do a stage 2 BTR cam and get a dyno tune honestly. I'm a utility truck type of guy, a blower would be cool but I'd prefer doing it to a 6.2 or performance oriented vehicle if bothering to make the conversion. I'm already in this 1500 for more than I'd like just for brakes, wheels, tires, steering, and suspension.

Yea, I figure I'd be lucky to get 70-80HP from breather mods and a stage 4 BTR cam.

Well now I'm thinking about a Whipple or Maggie and headers job w/ lifters and DOD delete but leaving the cam. Yall a bad influence, lol. Seems you gotta petition congress even if you take the engine out to get the cam from from these Gen 5 L83's, was not expecting it to be a pack a lunch kinda job. I've been party to an LT4 cam swap and thought it would be pretty breezy, but this is probably not something I can handle on my own. I heard the Whipple can cause issue with HPFP's due to the intake design, so was leaning Maggie but dunno much about either of em. Anyone know a good shop for performance in the northern VA or VA/WV/MD tristate area that could handle something like this?

I didn't know that, interesting. My only justification for my apprehension is based on distant observations of a few folks with Whipple charged L83's blowing the 6L80 and figured something is going on past around 550HP. Maybe they are just launching the crap out of them, if so I wouldn't know one way or another. I have heard folks say the 6L80 will take 700+ but of the Whipple builds I have seen about a quarter of them have trashed it with less, so I don't know what to think. But I am just looking to do a mild cam and lifters at this point, if down the road I wanna take the next step to a supercharger I figure it won't hurt to have those components already well sorted out.

I don't want to feed 500+ hp to my 6L80 even with a built converter and then still have 100k+ mile lifter and cam concerns.