Supreme Pizza

Fix it by doing the thing.

I agree. Wiper parts have to be installed in the correct orientation or they will produce undesired operation. Some vehicles will destroy the parts if you install the parts improperly and then turn the wipers on.

There may have been some damage done to the steering column when your buddy used a "hammer" to get the old one out. The ignition lock mechanisms are fairly complicated and you need to be careful when removing them.

The way to determine of the battery itself is the problem, is to disconnect the negative battery post, and let it sit in cold weather for a few days. If the battery is dead, then the battery is the problem. If the battery is not dead, than there is a parasitic drain.

I agree that replacing all of the lifters and trays has its advantages, and is probably the most recommended option. Since your in there, might as well change them out. However, I have read a lot of reviews about replacing all of the lifters, and then it turns out that a good lifter gets replaced with a factory defective one, and it all has to come apart again to fix something that was not broken in the first place. "The new lifter fails after a week" type of thing. When I did my lifter failure repair, I only replaced the one bad lifter and the lifter guide that it sat in. My theory is that the other lifters have proven themselves over the last 200 million revolutions of the engine, and that if they had a defect, then I would have seen it by now. Don't fix it if it ain't broken type of thing. Even as I write this, I can see the 51/49 that I thought long and hard about as I was doing the repair. Its really up to you on what you replace. There is no correct answer. On a side note, I would definitely NOT pull the head off the side that has no problems. Only pull the head that has a bad lifter, even if you plan to replace all the lifters on that side of the engine. On another side not, there is a way to fix the lifter without pulling the head or replacing any parts. You pull the VLOOM and use a special too that fits into the oil port that is between the VLOOM and the lifter itself. Tap on the tool, and the lifter pops back into the proper position. It doesn't work every time, but you should try it before actually puling the head. Here is the link to the tool: https://www.crazedperformancerepair.com/product-page/lifter-release-tool Watch the video, its very informative. Here is the video link:

I would not be concerned about the amount of rubber. The only part that needs to be metal is the very ends, where it bolts up. The rubber is to allow the engine to move independently of the cooler. So the more rubber there is, the less flex there would be on the rubber, as it would distributed over a larger area. The fact is though, the movement is so minute, that its completely trivial. Anyway, I would just buy what ever hoses will bolt up. The amount of rubber does matter in my opinion. For that matter, you could even repair you existing lines. Just use a small pipe cutter to remove the rubber sections, flare the ends, and install new hose sections.

Strange. I would start with rotating the tires frequently. Might be worth looking at the rear axle alignment.

There is always someone there to let you know EXACTLY how fast you were going....

Any check engine lights? And codes?

Fuel leak? What do you mean? What fuel leak ?

Might try disconnecting the Mass Airflow Sensor, to see if that helps.

Ya, checking for a vacuum leak couldn't hurt. I used starting fluid for the test, but that's just me. Could be water in the fuel? Clogged air filter?

Buy a $20 dash cam from Amazon. Mount the dash cam on the rear window, pointing toward the dash. Plug the dash cam into the cigarette lighter and let it run every time you drive. Once you have video evidence, show it to the dealer. Or do what the last owner did - sell it.

I would say that there is some sort of problem with your vehicle. Replacing random parts will only make the problem worse, not better. Every part that you replace might cause more problems. For instance, if your old fuel pump was working fine, and you replace it with a brand new (but defective) fuel pump - then you have added more problems to the situation, yet you completely discount the fuel pump as an issue, because its brand new. Now you have 2 major problems, and have spend time and money - which only results in a much more difficult diagnosis. If you want to replace the fuel pump, make sure its actually bad first. Also, you can spend $1,000 and countless hours replacing random parts, when a diagnostic only costs $100 and takes an hour. Its all all about the basics: Fuel Air Timing Spark Compression Fuel/air ratio Which one is not working properly?

Good job on the repair. Did you change the oil afterwards? That water must have been leaking down past the piston.

Sounds like misfire problems to me. The rig shakes, the O2 sensors say that fuel mixture is off... That all fits with a misfire. What does the fuel mileage indicator say while the shaking is happening? Whats the transmission temperature shortly after the shaking?

I would say that you are having some sort of oil pressure problem. I would not run the engine for more than a few seconds with the gauge reading 0 oil pressure. You mentioned that your not overheating, which leads you to believe you have good oil pressure. But if you overheated because of no oil pressure - you would need a new engine afterwards. You would not want to be driving at all with 0 oil pressure. If you drive around for several seconds with no oil pressure, and it actually has 0 oil pressure, then you will drastically reduce the life of your engine. If you want to disregard the electric dash gash gauge, that's fine, but I would install a temporary manual gauge and run it out of the engine bay and tape it to the hood so you can see it while driving. In case you haven't already guessed, I'm of the opinion that oil pressure is extremely important. If I was driving down the the highway and saw 0 oil pressure, then I would immediately look at the tachometer. If the tachometer said anything other than 0, then I would click the ignition off, turn on the right hand turn signal, and start looking for a way to coast off the side of the freeway. If the oil level was full, I would call a AAA roadside assistance and have the rig towed back to my place for further diagnostics. The next step is to 100% confirm what the oil pressure is - before driving the vehicle anymore, even if its just a bad stepper motor.

Ya, that's a good idea. At least he could get it into 2H so that it can be driven. It may shift by hand more easily of the transmission is in neutral. (might want to chalk the tires).

I cant tell you what your vehicle needs. Here is what my rig wants, in order to shift from 4L to 2H: 1) Engine running. 2) Transmission in neutral. 3) Vehicle rolling forward or backwards at 1 or 2 MPH. 4) Press transfer case shift button. Your rig might want a different procedure.

Ya, I would agree with that. Power to the coil is always good. If he going to go that far though, then he will need some sort of engine ground wire too I guess. That opens up a whole can of worms though - because at that point he will need to get some spark plug wires. And battery cables too for that matter.

Also, when you shift the transfer case, are you following the instructions in the owners manual? Simply pressing the tranfer case shift buttons is not the correct procedure. There are other necessary steps that must be taken if you want to change the tranfer case settings.

I would drop the transfer case fluid and look for metal shavings or glitter in the fluid.

Sounds like a bad flex-plate.

It's kind of a vague question. So... Here ya go: