Supreme Pizza

This is not exactly what you were asking for, but it might help. Part #25.

When I start my 2008 with remote start, the HVAC doesn't work the the same way it does when the key is on. That may or may not have anything to do with your issue, except that turning on "recycle" for the HVAC may keep the system from pulling exhaust or other vapors into the cab during the remote start warm up cycle. The "recycle" may not be on with the remote start though, and then may turn to "recycle" when you are in the normal mode (not in remote start mode).

I agree with a lot of that. However, there is a specific additive that is worth while. The brand varies, but the product is the same. The product does not "fix" major problems, but it will reverse aging related issues. If your hands are dry and cracked, this additive act as the hand lotion. When a seal drys out, the rubber contracts (shrinks) and the spring can no longer hold the rubber against the moving shaft. This product adds the original elasticity back to the rubber, so the spring can pull the rubber back to where its supposed to be in order to stop fluid loss. If you take an old seal and a new seal and an old "treated" seal, and compare them - then the new seal and the treated seal rubber will feel the same. The old untreated seal will feel hard and brittle. Reference the spring:

Don't feel bad about messing up the brakes. It happens. Everyone that has turned a wrench has screwed something up at some point or another. It sounds like warped rotors, but there are a few ways to check. Here are some options. 1) Pull the rotors and have them tested on a machine at the auto parts store. 2) Jack the front up, turn the wheel all the way, and have someone spin the wheel by hand. Position something rigid to slightly scrap against the inner side of the rotor, and see if its constant, or if it goes scrape, scrape, scrape. 3) Go to a large parking lot, and drive strait - check for wobble. Turn 45 degrees, and check for wobble, turn 45 degrees, and check for wobble, etc. Basically you draw a huge box with your truck in the parking lot. If the pulsation increases or decreased at different points in this test, then you have 2 bent rotors. The test changes the orientation of the wobbles to each other. In some orientations, the wobbles fight each other, and in the other orientations, the wobble work together so that you feel them less. Of the 3 options, I recommend #3. However, I'm sure there are other options available that someone can suggest.

For the repair, it would really depend on how bad the damage is. You would want to start pocking around under the truck with a screw driver and see if there are any soft spots hiding anywhere. Obviously the less rust the better, so even though its not a solution, I would start by adding some "rust stopper" type of product. At least you can stop, or greatly reduce the progression of the damage while you consider your options. You just spray all the rust once per year. Its cheap to buy on Amazon. Here is what i use:

So your saying that reprogramming would work, but the who and the how much it would cost are the variables?

Oil pressure is like computer RAM. Not enough is catastrophic, but having more than needed is not of any benefit, and an extreme excess can actually be detrimental.

Well said. That is exactly right. I suppose if you wanted a "cold air intake" that is not OEM, you would really need a snorkel, preferably with insulated ducting under the hood. Half of these so called "aftermarket cold air intake systems" put the cloth air filter near the radiator, which makes no sense at all.

Here are some "improvements" to the OEM cold air intake.

Cool plow man! Or I guess it would be "cold plow".... Oh. Snow plow. OK. I get it.

Might want to make sure the exhaust doesn't enter the RV. If your parked with the engine running for hours in a camp spot, it could happen. As far as the auto shutoff defeat, I would try to get the computer pre-programmed to not auto shut down. Mail it off, get it back in a couple days. Maybe $50 fee. Oh, and since your computer is being programmed anyway - have them disable the DFM for free.

I saw one of these on a car window in the Winco parking lot a few months ago. Great window sticker. I ordered one for myself.

I would not rebuild the transmission. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. As for the oil leak, you can use special additives. Regular oil stop leak additives can damage seals by causing them to swell. This product does not swell seals. It rejuvenates the seals, bringing them back to the elasticity that they were when they were new. Very good product. I have used it many times on rear seals, and it has worked every time so far. Another name for the exact same product is AT-205. Note: this product rejuvenates intact seals, it does not repair seals that are missing pieces or that are torn. If the seal has bullet holes in it, this product will not help.

It would take a long time to explain everything there is to know about it, but here are the basics: GM has designed a motor that will stop 4 of the cylinders from firing, by basically shutting off the lifters. The design was faulty, and if there are any problems in the system - especially oil pressure related, then the lifters fail. If any lifters fail, then you have to figure out specifically why, and then pull the head(s) to replace the lifters. To prevent the failure, you have to disable the system before any damage happens. I had to replace parts on my oil pump and pull the head to fix mine. (it was already broken when I bought it) If you want more info, you can search "AFM" "DOD" or "DFM" along with the word "failure" or "problem" on this forum, or google. To disable the system, you can mail the ECU in to a special shop and have it reprogrammed ($50). or buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TTRC3MM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/This-Sticker-Adds-HP-horsepower/dp/B00NAJG3NQ/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1NZ5V7Y1ILD7X&keywords=this+sticker+adds+10+horsepower&qid=1641500631&sprefix=this+sticker+a%2Caps%2C220&sr=8-2

As far as 4x4 emblems are concerned, I think that magnetic ones might be the way to go. That way to could try different positions. Once you find the perfect spot, you could just add glue or double sided tape. My vehicle is actually missing all the emblems and any other lettering. One of the previous owners must have taken them off. Maybe a few letter fell off and they just remove the rest? Is there some place that sells the lettering? There must be.

You can plug your license plate number into O'rilleys auto parts website, and it will decode. Then search for 02 sensors. The positions available will tell where they can go. Another options is to call the parts store and ask them. Or the dealer parts department can check.

What year/make/model of vehicle are you working on? If its the 2008, you can run a compression test, but that can be inconclusive if you have the AFM problem. You would start with that test, and if it fails - you can stop testing. If it passes, you would want to pull the valve cover and check the rocker arms on that cylinder. Make sure that both rockers move properly for 30 seconds with the engine running. Lifters and fail intermittently and fool a compression tester.

Does it smell bad too, or does it just LOOK like sh1t?

eBay. $50 https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=2014+silverado+1500+in+channel+wind+deflectors&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=2014+silverado+1500+in+channel+wind+deflectors

I think this one is more accurate:

Ya just got to retrain the brain. With the proper motivation, anything is possible.

Ramblings? "I see a lot of rumblings" You wanted to check with us to confirm that your warranty would cover something? Its always best to check the forums. If for some reason the dealer doesn't cover the repairs under warranty, just tell them that the people in the forums said that it is supposed to be covered, and they will go 'click click click' on the computer to fix the problem with your repair bill.

Why not just install a separate horn button?