SquireSCA

I like the wider stance, but when I did this on my last ATV, I started eating up wheel bearings and had to replace them twice a year. I didn't use spacers, I got new rims with 2" offset, and that put a lot of stress on the wheel bearings and caused premature wear... Is that a problem on these trucks?

So I have a 2018 Z71, 2.25" level kit in front and 3" lift blocks in the back to keep factory rake... Both lower air dams removed, 33" Ridgegrapplers mounted to stock wheels, metal skid plates, etc... For the performance end, straight pipe from the CATs back, resonator and exhaust flapper removed. Airaid MIT installed with a K&N air filter *very lightly oiled* so as not to mess with the MAF... in fact when I got the filter, I washed and cleaned it first, dried it and then lightly oiled it, as they shipped dripping wet and didn't want that in there. I also modded the airbox so that instead of breathing through that little snorkel that extends into the passenger side fender area, it now breathes via the whole side of that box being opened up. Still has the outer insert with the foam sealer on it, so it's not open to the engine compartment, but it does have the ability to draw in more air, easily... May even open up the metal in that inner fender a tad to make it more efficient, and then put better foam sealer so make sure no water can splash up in there... Anyway, my question is that when I flashed the 91 octane performance map to the truck, it made a very positive difference. I made sure it used all the "Superchips" defaults for things like shift points and shift torque, etc... Added 20% sensitivity to the throttle so I don't have to mash it to the floor to get it to react, etc... However, are there better settings to use on some of the things like torque or shifting? The settings are usually "stock", "SuperChips Values" and then other options that frankly I don't know what they mean and I don't want to just guess and do trial and error... Does anyone with a 17+ Silverado with the 5.3L and 6 speedy tranny(sorry, non-binary gender transmission) use the Flashpaq F5 and Performance map with settings better than the defaults that the tuner suggests?

Summit Racing. Drove down there today... I know I can return it, but it is just such a pain in the ass... 3 hour drive and half a tank of gas and a half day of my time... And this is but 1 of like 9 things this month that have gone the exact same way... New bike has issues, part delay, then dealer gets the part and sits on it for a week, only to then tell me they sold the business and the new owner doesn't want Aprilia and fired all their techs, so they don't have anyone to work on the bike and they are 3.5 hours away and the next closest dealer is 4 hours in the other direction... My pool heater died after a glitch with the gas company has me owing them $14k(not a typo) for 2 years where they were not billing us correctly... Dude, I could go on and on and on with disaster after disaster, you would think I am cursed...

No idea... all I know is I paid $386 with tax for the tuner, than another $40 for the unlock code, only to be told that the server that issues the unlock codes has been down since last weekend and they have no idea when it will be back up and I can get my code...

Today I drove an hour and a half each way down to Summit Racing to look at tuners... Went with the SuperChips Flashpaq F5 for my 2018 Z71, got it home, did the updates, paid another $40 to unlock the flashing ability for this truck only to find out that the server that generates their unlock codes, crashed last week, with no ETA on when it will be up. All the parts of the system are working except for 2017+ GM trucks. That part of the server is still down. So I have a $400+ paperweight until they get around to building a new server, I guess...

The Ranchos seem to have a decent compromise on the compression damning, for soaking up bumps, but as others have noted, it is the rebound damping that is too little, so it rebounds fast and gives that "sproingy" feeling when you go over a speed bump. When I hit a speed bump at a decent speed it does an ok job of soaking up the hit, but then the shocks, especially the rear, spring back too fast and causes the rear to hop. Suspension that is properly dialed in will soak up movement in BOTH directions, not just the initial hit and downward stroke. The upward or rebound stroke is where the stock Rancho shocks seem to really fall short.

Good info, thanks, I will ax them when I am ready to do something.

Still a work in progress. So far I just added a JL Audio 250W amp and 8" sub under the back seat, had the dealer install a 2.25" front level kit and 3" lift in the rear to keep a little factory rake, upgraded the tires, plugged in the box to disable AFM and force it to 8cyl mode all the time(Range Box), removed the muffler, exhaust flapper and resonator and had a shop weld in SS piping, and then added a chrome exhaust tip from an Escalade... so straight pipe from the cats back, sounds great. I removed the lower air dam and side steps for more clearance, and then yesterday removed the entire black plastic lower bumper and chrome mustache, and on Friday I am having a double row of "black chrome" light bar installed in the gap created between the rescue hooks... Oh, and I took out the crappy plastic skid plates and installed the heavy aluminum ones from GM, the cover the front and the oil pan... transfer case already had steel plate protecting it... I will take nice pics on Sat, after the light bar system is installed.

Stock wheels, with Ridgegrappler 285/65/r18 on them

These guys said they have good luck with them, and combining them with the 5100's they said really makes for a nice ride. I should be able to step up another size in tire as well. It's got a 285/65r18 on it now, I might be able to squeeze in 1 size taller. That's about it for this truck, they say to get 35's you need a bigger lift and to probably trim fenders and stuff. I won't go that far...

Really? It looks like it replaces the UCAs and it drops the diff, which I assume would put the drive shafts at a better angle... Maybe the other part that they replace in addition to the lift kit are the ball joints? They warranty their stuff, so if this was a problem I assume they would want to avoid that? I will ask them.

Here is the lift kit, but they said that they also replace some stock part with an aftermarket part that is not in the kit... He said the stock part will work with it, but wears out faster so they swap that out as well. I would be doing this kit, plus that part, and then the Bilsteins all for around $2600 installed. https://www.readylift.com/4-sst-lift-kit-gm-silverado-sierra-1500-4wd-z71-w-cast-al-or-stamped-steel-uca-2014-2018-1.html

So I went over to FlatOutAuto yesterday and here is my game plan. SST makes a 4" lift kit for this truck, that isn't too invasive as far as the install. It will give me a solid 4" all around, move the diff, etc... We are gonna do that in the spring, along with upgrading the shocks to the correct Bilstein 5100's at the same time. Total with installation should be around $2600, give or take. That will greatly improve the clearance and handling of the truck, ensure proper suspension geometry, etc...

I have to run out at lunch time to pick up a new gun, and I am gonna swing by the local off road shop and see what suggestions they have. www.flatoutauto.com is the place that the dealer had do my level kit, so we will see what they say. At the very least, a nicer set of shocks might soak up the bumps and rocks a bit better..

Yeah, I think that at this point, if you buy a $50k truck and you already put money into level kits, tires and stuff and are gonna pay for better shocks... Why cheap out on a couple hours of labor for installing those shocks? I would prefer the peace of mind of letting a reputable and insured shop doing it, and if the wheel alignment has to be done anyway, might as well just hand them the truck, and let them do it all and do it right the first time, and if something goes wonky, it's on them. Are the Ranchos on the 2018's really that crappy? I mean, if I go to the Bil 5100's, is the difference really that profound, or is it largely placebo?

Here they are. I have a friend that has a lift, he installed the 5100's on my 2016 Colorado Z71, so I would imagine it's the same type of install, just bigger. haha

4WheelParts has the set of 4 for under $300, but that doesn't include install. I am guessing 2 hours of work, so maybe $500 or so all in. That's not too bad. If they install those and it doesn't take away at all from my spacer lift kits that are installed, I plan to do this. I don't want to lose ANY clearance. I would prefer to pick up a little, if possible. But no less.

That's a good point, probably best to have the local offroad shop, there are several near me here in GA, order the shocks and do the installs and alignment. I will take a ride over there and see what they charge.

Cool. The problem will be getting them installed. I need a lift and all that, because I assume I have to take the front strut off and apart?

Sooo.... If I have the stock Ranchos and a 2" level kit and 2 or 3" lift out back(axle blocks)... Can I just get a better ride with new shocks? Probably nothing too fancy and I don't need any more lift I guess, but if I can get a better quality ride on and off road by just bolting on some new shocks, what are the best bang for the buck for my setup?

Yeah, I guess I will just need to drive over to one of the local shops, there are a few good ones here, and let them inspect my truck and see what we can come up with. I don't need a monster truck, but I wouldn't mind a little more lift and a little nicer ride on and off road.

I have a 2" level kit(spacers" installed up front, and a set of 2" blocks in the back, and 33's with stock wheels. Can I add a new set of shocks, on top of my current spacer kits, to get an extra inch or two, while also getting a better ride on and off road, than the stock Ranchero's? Or with regards to the front struts, is it longer shock OR spacer kits, but not both together?