Chris walker

thanks so much!!!!

My air conditioning blows hot air after lifter and cam shaft repair. It was ice cold prior to the repair in late fall. Is there any chance they could have unplugged/drained/uncharged the AC unit during the repair? i don't want to go in there and ask if they screwed something up if they didn't touch the air. On the flip side I need to mention it if they accidentally screwed something up. thanis for any help!

Does anyone know what the stock tires are in the LT 4x4? I know they are Goodyear Wranglers but can’t seem to find the model. i had a loaner while mine was in the shop. Instantly liked the tires but, like a moron, I forgot to write down the model.

My 2019 6.2 AT4 started having a tick about 3 weeks ago. The tick started for about a week and then went completely away for another couple of weeks. The Tick started again today and I scheduled service next week. I have a few questions for those that have experienced the issue: I've read on the forum and it appears the tick can be lifters or from an injector. Has anyone had anything else had other problems that caused the tick? It seems strange that a lifter issue would simply go away for a few weeks. If a lifter fails it would seem to be a persistent issue. Has anyone heard of the lifter issue masking itself for a brief duration? Are there aftermarket lifters that are known to prevent this going forward? I heard there was a class action lawsuit on the lifters but cant find much about it. Does anyone know where it stands? I have an extended warranty but in just about every case I've had in the past they've found a way to deny any claim I've made. If I have to pay for this out of pocket what will it run? Thanks so much for all of your input.

I have a 2019 AT4 that has horrible brake squeak at 20k miles. The squeak only happens when the truck is cold for the first 3-4 stops. Its loud enough to wake the dead, however. The brakes show 30% wear so they shouldn't require replacement. Has anyone experience this and are any of you aware of a solution before I take it to the shop or start pulling wheels off? Thanks for your help in advance.

You are 100% right and you have legal protection BUT manufacturers can and will still void non related failures and deny warranty. They know your options are to take them to court on a Magnusun Moss claim or to pound sand. They know you have to lawyers up and then fight an uphill battle against the engineers that designed the car and army of corp lawyers... I mention this because I was into tracking sports cars for a long while and I watched it happen to numerous people.

I always get some level of feedback when doing line taps. The LLC adapter is 100% clean with a good ground. I was surprised with the quality of the LLC adapter. Its top notch and plug n play.....and Im not affiliated with them at all.

I purchased the LLJ customs harness. Its great quality and I experienced good service...It took a couple of weeks to come in but well worth the wait. In addition consider fiberglassing your own enclosure....I fiberglassed my own enclosure using the frame for the organization tray in the AT4. I have one 8 powered by 500 watts and its more than enough...

I realize no one is driving but has anyone heard an update on this issue?

I've noticed a huge swing in MPG if I pre-start or idle... If I dont pre-start/idle I get 17-18 mpg. If I pre-start I get 13-14 mpg. I typically pre-start for 5-7 minutes. It seems too large of a variance but I've tested it numerous times. When I was idling at my daughters school everyday for 20-30 minutes I was near single digit MPG...

I often wonder about the urgency that companies have with these types of issues. Is there one guy working on this that is knocking off at 4:00pm to beat rush hour traffic or do they have 10 people working on it around the clock?

Thanks

I have not had any of the brake updates completed at this point. It seems as if GM states the issue is fixed with the latest software update but forum members are still having issues... Can anyone advise if the latest software fix actually fixes the problem?

I chatted with GM finance today and they said they had no early termination charges. They did say that the incentives went to the dealer and they've had several people call up stating the dealers had challenged them for refinancing. She didnt clarify what "challenged" meant. I'm guessing a civil lawsuit.....Anyone had a dealer come back to them?

For a stock system definitely fade to rear a couple of settings...The Bose system is pathetic no matter what you do with it.

Ron, You are correct. The Bose amp is behind the rear seat and that is where you will connect for the AT4 and the Denali. The non Bose system connection is at the firewall (you will not use this connection). The Bose amp is silver and has fins/heat sink. Its the only thing behind the seat that has "fins/heat sinks" The Bose amp is in the middle of the cab (Pictures below). You will plug into the top connection on the Bose amp (Pictures below - Please validate with LLJ for your specific connector as your may be different). Advice for removing the rear seat: 1)There are three "retainer" mechanisms to remove the rear seat back rest. The release for the mechanism is a hook that you have to lift up on. The left mechanism can easily be lifted up with a screw driver. The center and right mechanism require wire to loop around the hook and lift up.. The documentation state you need a hook tool but a screw driver and a piece of wire is all I needed. You need to put something between the seat and the back of the cab so the latches dont reconnect. 2)You need a LONG extension bit (9-10 inches long) with a 10mm socket to remove the 4 lean back bolts under the seat. I used a 6 inch extension with a 4 inch extension and it was barely long enough. The bolts were fairly easy to remove. The direction say 6inches but that wasnt long enough for me. 3) The head rest and head rest "spikes" are fairly easy to remove. You have to use a screw driver to push in a release tab with one hand and then apply firm pressure and lift up with the other hand. To see the release tab you have to push down pretty hard on the leather. 4) I recommend you put down a blanket on the bottom seat. This allows you to lay the back of the seat down and then slide it out the door. Be careful when removing the seat there are tabs on the bottom of the seat are metal and a little bit sharp. These tabs are where you removed the 10mm bolts. When you pull the seat out you dont want the metal tabs to scratch the plastic on the side of the doors. The back of the seat is also surprisingly heavy so be careful. You do not have to remove the seat but it makes life easy and gives you a place to sit if you need to tune/set amp gains. The written instructions give the full seat removal but the video shows you "how" to remove the seat. The video does not show the release mechanism and it doesnt give you as good of an explanation of the head rest spikes as the documentation so you need both resources. https://katzkinvrs.com/_manage_/res/marketing/Technical Bulletin - 2019 Chevy Silverado Rear Seat Removal.pdf Bose Amp Top connection - (Please validate plug location with LLJ as a safety measure) Once you have it connected its VERY important to set the gains safely. You may already know how to do this procedure but if you dont It takes about thirty minutes and its well worth your time to protect your investment! If you set your gains incorrectly you will clip and your drivers will pay the price. I've provided two links below for a detailed explanation. You set the line output converter first and then the amp. The amp settings require a multi-meter and test tones. You can find the test tones on spotify if you search "frequency test tones" and its in the play list. The only expenditure to set your gains safely is a few dollar multi-meter from harbor freight or northern tool. If you already know about gain setting please dont let the information I provided insult you or your intelligence. Someone else might read the post in the future and need the information. Step 1 - Setting the line output converter https://www.audiocontrol.com/knowledge-base/set-levels-line-converterprocessoreqcrossover/ Step 2 - Setting AMP gains http://www.carforum.net/audio/9580-pioneerislouds-gain-setting-tutorial.html https://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohms-law-calculators.asp *There are better and more effective methods for setting gains but it will require the expenditure of a few hundred dollars in tools.(SMD DD1 Distortion detection). You will gain "inches" and not "miles" with an expensive distortion detection tool. If you've got money to blow - go for it. The above ^^ is a safe method to set your gains, however.

I fiber glassed my own enclosure for the AT4. I learned a lot of useful information if anyone else decides to glass a box in the new series of trucks. I've included a list of materials, goals, lessons learned, financials, etc ... Materials used - New series of L7 8 inch shallow mount solabaric woofer L7T82) (DVC 2 ohm wired in Parallel for 1ohm rating at amp) Kicker CXA400.1 (rated 500 watts RMS mono for 1 ohm stable) US composites -1 1/2 inch chop mat US composites - 404 high temp polyester resin Dark gray carpet (local audio shop) LLJ customs Bose adapter KnuConcepts wiring Polyfill for box 3m 90 spray adhesive 3m tape Gray fleece from Walmart Dozen cheap paintbrushes - Epoxy cup (Home Depot) Goals Goal #1 - enclosure needed .56 feet of airspace (16 liters of water) Goal# 2 - Enclosure would use stock storage bin in the AT4 Goal #3 -enclosure was designed and built so Jack could remain in storage Goal #4 - 6 layers of 1 1/2 chop to ensure rigidity Goal #5 =Would withstand a water tight test Lessons learned Lesson learned #1 - There is VERY little room at the back of the seat. Lesson learned #2 - Bose amp is behind the seat. There is a great youtube video to show seat removal Lesson reminded #3- Fiberglass is easy to lay. Anyone can do it but requires patience. If you plan to glass in your own box you need a white painting suit, gloves and a RESPIRATOR not a dusk mask Lesson learned #4 - I would have taken the storage bin OUT of the car prior to my first glass-in. I could have dont just as good of job outside of the car. The car stunk for a week after the in-cab glass-in. Lesson learned #5 - The LLJ custom adapter is top notch. It comes with a nice RCA level that has a clipping indicator that makes it easy to set your amp gain. Final lesson - The enclosure kicks like a mule. I have everything turned down. When I had it tuned up the one 8 inch woofer (with appropriate airspace/power) was extremely loud (shaking windows inside the cab). I would imagine Im between 133-135 dbs. I have no clue how some people are dropping two tens and staying inside the cab of the truck while the music is playing. I would NOT use the storage enclosure if I had to start over. My life would have been much easier if I just used MDF to create a frame and then fiberglassed the top with two tier rings. Financials - Amp - $200 Speaker/Sub - $180 Fiberglass/resin - $100 Carpet - $30 HomeDepot supplies (Paintbrushes/3m/3m tape/epoxy cubs) - $50 Speaker wiring - $60 LLJ Custom Bose wiring harness - $145 Total - $765 Man hours - Approximately 15

Plasti-dip is always my answer for badging. Its cheap, fast and if you dont like it you just peel it off.

Thanks very much!

I'm starting my install today and had a quick question for those that have already installed their system. Do the door sill plates just pop straight up and are they attached by clips? Im assuming you can just get under them with a trim tool or screw driver and gently pry them up...Any feedback would be appreciated.

^^^Thanks!

Can you please take a pic of the 2 amps under your front seat? When I looked under the front seat as an option for amps, I thought the amps would block the air con vents...

You can make major improvements to the sound quality by fading the speakers farther to the back, boosting the bass, lowering the treble and turning up the volume... It appears the sound system heavily favors the front to the point the sound is thin and tone is lost...You recoup some of this by fading to the rear and adjusting bass/treble. Im still installing a sub within a few weeks but the adjustments make the current system bearable.

Do you also have an exhaust sound that sounds like an exhaust leak at the manifold? Im trying to figure out which sounds are normal as the truck is just a couple of weeks old.

I have a 6.2 AT4 and when I stop it sounds like the air con is dripping on the exhaust? Did they locate the air con drain right above the exhaust in this vehicle or is something broken? There is no oil/coolant in the driveway so I dont think its a vital fluid draining out..