It may be incorrect according to your experience but it isnt according to mine...I've personally never had a denied coverage but I've known plenty that have due to extensive involvement in the auto racing community. In each instance a M-M claim was involved it never made it to court because the lawyers advice was that it was cheaper/easier to pay to fix the car themselves than to try to fight them in a legal battle. In many states there arent even any provisions to recover attorneys fees for M-M and the average resolution time is a year to a year and a half....Even if you win, you probably end up losing. I've literally never seen or even heard of a manufacturer fold prior to court...
I kind of chuckle when people believe the Magnasun-Moss act gives them any real protection. Your only real repercussion is to take them to court and spend thousands fighting their layers of lawyers and endless dollars. At the end of the day its the professional opinion of those that designed and built the truck and your local opinion based mechanic (if you chose to fight them). They are going to win in 99% of the instances and you are out thousands... This^^ is exactly why companies like BDS offer (or at least used to offer) legal services to fight against the manufacturer in Magnasun cases. They were tired of seeing denied warranty claims and people getting rolled in court.
I chatted with GM finance today and they said they had no early termination charges. They did say that the incentives went to the dealer and they've had several people call up stating the dealers had challenged them for refinancing. She didnt clarify what "challenged" meant. I'm guessing a civil lawsuit.....Anyone had a dealer come back to them?
It is a very expensive tailgate and when I bought my truck I thought it was a gimmick. The only reason I have it is that it came with the truck. I can truly say that its the best thing since slice bread, however. I use it almost every day and it makes life easier. GM has a gold mine on their hands with this tailgate. They are certifiable idiots if they dont have it on every single GM truck within the next few years... I've been fortunate enough to have a few very nice cars that have been head turners over the years but I've never had attention like I've had in this truck. Its not actually the truck that gets the attention, its the tailgate. I cant go to a gas station, restaurant, shopping without some random guy wanting to check out the tailgate and see how it operates... I chuckle when there is a random guy walking around in the bed of my truck after asking if he can use the step. Its happened on numerous occassions and its gotten to the point where my wife will say "get ready you've got a tailgate stalker coming over"..LOL
Those were my suggestions you replied to and thats why I followed up... I've known too many owners that wouldnt lift a finger for a customer. The "we cant do anything for you line" is horse hockey...The reality is that they dont want to do anything for him because they have his money and dont care..I've been engaged with GM through various means for a long time (I do not work for GM) and I know this to be true. In addition I've been in business for almost thirty years with massive global companies like GM..There is ALWAYS something you can do for the customer....always.
I dont believe the buyers/dealership should be treated with kid gloves for the following reasons.. 1)The dealership sold the car, benefited by taking part of the profit and holds a significant amount of responsibility in the process. They dont get to walk away and throw all of the responsibility on the manufacturer now they have their cut....If they arent helping, Im turning the screws in a big and very public way. 2) Dealerships have a large leeway in what they can do for the customer. My father in law is the largest purchaser of Corvettes in the state I reside. If he has a problem that GM doesnt want to cover it still gets fixed ASAP. I've watched it...The dealership owner will go to bat, pull strings at GM to make sure he is happy.....My father in law got a ZR1 after all of the allocations were given out. How does this happen? The owner got on the phone (while we were standing there) and started calling people at GM and MADE it happen. The poor guy with this truck just isnt getting that treatment. The dealer may be saying to his face "we are doing all we can for you" but the dealer isnt actually doing ALL they can for him. I guarantee if they owner of that dealership wanted to get the truck fixed for this guy all it would take is a single call to GM to the right person. I would be willing to bet a significant chunk that call isnt, hasnt and wont be made... This dealership washed their hands of this guy because they already got their money..
I hope your lemon law goes well... To me it sounds like its also time to spend some quality time creating a web page detailing your issues, hitting as many car forums as possible, create messages like this, stand outside of the dealership with a massive sign on busy Saturdays, create a flier and hand it out to every single customer that is leaving the dealership, staple the fliers on every single light pole in the area of the dealership, post about your experience on every local Facebook page, buy an ad in your local paper.,Find out where the dealership owner lives and stand at the front of his neighborhood entrance with a sign.. Do not stop until you have a fair settlement..... These companies EXPECT you to take it lying down. They figure if they can ignore you long enough you will just go away because 99% of the people will go away eventually...Its time to make it your mission and part time job to be a thorn in their side until they want to extend customer service.
This is very true^^^^ ..Its very difficult to configure your way into a cheaper truck by selecting the same options on different models.... If I selected an RST or LTZ and built them similarly, the cost was almost identical. Its very apparent GM didnt want loopholes in their pricing model that people could exploit. I spent hours on the configurator trying to find a loophole with zero success..
Its the logic in the Bose system..If you have spotify and play test tones through the frequency scale you will see that the rear speakers are intended to only play within a certain frequency range (mid bass). They are not full range speakers from what my ears can tell (I havent hooked up an RTA). When the frequencies that are intended to be played out of these speakers (which are managed by the crossover) are sent to the speakers it sounds closer to a normal volume. The challenge is that alot of music is light in these frequency ranges that appear to go to these speakers..Again, I havent hooked up an RTA to confirm but this is what my ears are telling me when listening to a frequency sweep. The back speakers seem to be for a specific mid range but not the subsonic bass frequencies. Its extremely odd because the front speakers have a gap in the frequency range to accommodate the rear speakers but the front speakers seem to pick up at about 80hz and below for the bass. The following is the test I conducted (If memory serves me right). I played a bass heavy tone 50hz and faded all the way to the rear and had very little sound volume. I faded all the way forward and had loads of bass. I played a 125hz or 250 hz mid bass tone (cant remember) and faded to the rear with significant volume increase. I faded to the front with the same tone and very little volume.. ..It makes no sense to me from a design perspective. I did this a month or so back so you should run your own test and validate my memory. ...There have been several people that have tapped into the rear speakers that have complained about Subwoofer volume after they've added a sub. My thought process is that the rears are midbass with minimal "leak" for true bass frequency range. Its why their subs are quiet. They frequencies they are trying to pick up and amplify through the sub arent being sent down the wire. They are picking up "leak" and trying to amplify it. If you tap into the front which appear to pick up the 80hz and below tones the bass seems normal. The guys at LCI seem to have figured this out because their harness pulls off of the front speakers for a subwoofer addition and not the rears. I purchased their adapter and my single 8 inch sub hits like a sledgehammer..It appears you need to tap into the front speakers if you want to add a subwoofer. The Bose system is really a joke. If you play with test tones in your car for five minutes you can figure out something is very wrong. GM either put extreme limitations on the Bose engineers or the Bose engineers dropped the ball in a huge way. The crossover is a mess, the signal processing is a mess, the speaker locations/choices are a mess and the end result is a disaster. The idea that GM sells this as an upgrade is pretty pathetic. In the end if you want true clarity you need to run an RTA or have a shop run an RTA to truly figure it out. I havent had time and dont intend to. The sub I added made significant improvement for closing the gigantic hole between the front and rear speakers. Im not going all out on a build for this truck because I will rip out the entire system, build fiberglass kick panels and spend weekends with an RTA tuning and thats not where I want to end up...
I figured this out for anyone that has the issue in the future - You need to only have your nav running through car play and then adjust the "voice volume" in the infotainment system. If you have any other app running through car play it will adjust the main volume and not the voice volume.
I've been using Waze and Google maps with my AT4 for a couple of months with no issues via carplay. I got in the car today (no changes to phone or infotainment system) and the volume of the NAV voice is extremely low (almost inaudible). I checked my iphone navigation settings and the volume setting is normal. I changed the nav voice level to high in the iphone with no effect. Im assuming there is a setting that needs to be changed within the infotainment system. Has anyone had this issue and did you find a fix? Any help would be greatly appreciated...
Im almost 100% confident they are midbass and not full range speakers...If you have spotify and search test tones and put on test tones 180hz to 2khz the rear speakers seem to play at a normal volume. If you play tones 2k up they seem to not play at all. My guess is they are crossed over around 2k and thats the only range...Whats even stranger is they seem to reduce in volume (even when in the 180hz to 2khz) as the volume increases to protect the speakers (I assume). The sound system in this truck is my only disappointment with this truck.. I wish I had the option to leave it off of the truck.The Bose guys that designed this either had crazy restrictions put on them or no clue what they were doing. The sound stage is an absolute disaster and it didnt/doesnt have to be. I added a small 8inch woofer crossed at 80hz and it made all of the difference in the world. The rear speakers are still very quiet and it has me contemplating an entire system, however.
Ron, You are correct. The Bose amp is behind the rear seat and that is where you will connect for the AT4 and the Denali. The non Bose system connection is at the firewall (you will not use this connection). The Bose amp is silver and has fins/heat sink. Its the only thing behind the seat that has "fins/heat sinks" The Bose amp is in the middle of the cab (Pictures below). You will plug into the top connection on the Bose amp (Pictures below - Please validate with LLJ for your specific connector as your may be different). Advice for removing the rear seat: 1)There are three "retainer" mechanisms to remove the rear seat back rest. The release for the mechanism is a hook that you have to lift up on. The left mechanism can easily be lifted up with a screw driver. The center and right mechanism require wire to loop around the hook and lift up.. The documentation state you need a hook tool but a screw driver and a piece of wire is all I needed. You need to put something between the seat and the back of the cab so the latches dont reconnect. 2)You need a LONG extension bit (9-10 inches long) with a 10mm socket to remove the 4 lean back bolts under the seat. I used a 6 inch extension with a 4 inch extension and it was barely long enough. The bolts were fairly easy to remove. The direction say 6inches but that wasnt long enough for me. 3) The head rest and head rest "spikes" are fairly easy to remove. You have to use a screw driver to push in a release tab with one hand and then apply firm pressure and lift up with the other hand. To see the release tab you have to push down pretty hard on the leather. 4) I recommend you put down a blanket on the bottom seat. This allows you to lay the back of the seat down and then slide it out the door. Be careful when removing the seat there are tabs on the bottom of the seat are metal and a little bit sharp. These tabs are where you removed the 10mm bolts. When you pull the seat out you dont want the metal tabs to scratch the plastic on the side of the doors. The back of the seat is also surprisingly heavy so be careful. You do not have to remove the seat but it makes life easy and gives you a place to sit if you need to tune/set amp gains. The written instructions give the full seat removal but the video shows you "how" to remove the seat. The video does not show the release mechanism and it doesnt give you as good of an explanation of the head rest spikes as the documentation so you need both resources. https://katzkinvrs.com/_manage_/res/marketing/Technical Bulletin - 2019 Chevy Silverado Rear Seat Removal.pdf Bose Amp Top connection - (Please validate plug location with LLJ as a safety measure) Once you have it connected its VERY important to set the gains safely. You may already know how to do this procedure but if you dont It takes about thirty minutes and its well worth your time to protect your investment! If you set your gains incorrectly you will clip and your drivers will pay the price. I've provided two links below for a detailed explanation. You set the line output converter first and then the amp. The amp settings require a multi-meter and test tones. You can find the test tones on spotify if you search "frequency test tones" and its in the play list. The only expenditure to set your gains safely is a few dollar multi-meter from harbor freight or northern tool. If you already know about gain setting please dont let the information I provided insult you or your intelligence. Someone else might read the post in the future and need the information. Step 1 - Setting the line output converter https://www.audiocontrol.com/knowledge-base/set-levels-line-converterprocessoreqcrossover/ Step 2 - Setting AMP gains http://www.carforum.net/audio/9580-pioneerislouds-gain-setting-tutorial.html https://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohms-law-calculators.asp *There are better and more effective methods for setting gains but it will require the expenditure of a few hundred dollars in tools.(SMD DD1 Distortion detection). You will gain "inches" and not "miles" with an expensive distortion detection tool. If you've got money to blow - go for it. The above ^^ is a safe method to set your gains, however.
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