Tx_operator87 started following 2014-2017: DL8, DL3, Towing Mirror Upgrade – Mirrors Explained, 2016 Sierra 8" intellink and HMI with Nav, 2014-2018 Silverado power tailgate lock and and 4 others
That was plenty help! Thanks man. It has been driving me crazy for over a year now, tried clamping it and putting a rubber band around it but it would always come back. Never thought to do something as simple as wedge something in between it. Thanks again
I haven't heard of it, but I'm sure if you email diablosport or black bear performance they could give you an answer. I just ordered an intune i3 from diablosport and it has an option to turn off AFM, I dunno if it would be the same with the e assist.
Don't think its permanent, but if you hit your traction control and turn it off, and then hold the traction control button down for a few (maybe 5 or more) seconds, itll turn stabilitrak off. Not sure if you have to do that each time you get in the truck or not. And think it goes without saying, but you have to be in park when you do it.
This same thing is happening with my OBD2 port. I did a search on here and this thread popped up. I know its been 3 years, but how did you fix this? Is it just some lose bolts? Ive tried looking under there but I'm a big guy and it was hard to see anything.
Wanting to do the same thing with my 15, love the look of the 16,17,18s. Thought about trading mine in for an 18 but if I can just do a conversion like this it would be better. Same on wanting to know the price
I get the same kind of knock from the left front wheel, but its usually when going in reverse with the wheel turned fully or nearly full to the left. Its just one loud knock and I can feel it on my foot. The one person I took it to couldn't find anything wrong and I couldn't replicate it as it doesn't happen every time. A lot of posts are talking about it doing it while stationary, I haven't tried cutting the wheels while stationary so that's something I'll have to try and see if it happens. Just wonder if it doesn't happen stationary for me if it could still be the same thing that every one else is hearing?
I had a cell go out on my battery a couple weeks ago. I would turn the key to accessory and the battery gauge would be around 8v, this happened each time I turned the truck off. Jumped the battery and drove to back home from downtown Houston to oreillys auto and got them to test the battery and they told me it was my voltage regulator and that my alternator was shot. Almost positive the voltage regulator is on the alternator so I didn't think that could be the issue, I had just drove an hour with a bad alternator? I don't think so. So I took it to the dealership and they put their reader on the battery, the guy showed me that my alternator was charging the battery just fine. Turned the truck off and tried to turn it back on with his reader still hooked up and it showed a bad cell. Bought a new battery and my gauge was doing the same thing, 12v here, 14v there, I was worried at first but after a few days I quit worrying, as long as my truck was starting I was happy. So yeah, don't always trust the auto stores reader, and the voltage going below 14 is fine as long as its in that window on the gauge itll start.
Alright, I'll try it on my days off. Really hoping that this is the issue, I've been controlling it on the steering wheel for a while now, but it would be nice to just reach over and use the buttons. Thanks for the advice, I'll let you know how it goes
Thanks for your response. How difficult and how long did it take to disassemble it? I've watched videos on how to get the plastic trim off, but my biggest worry is messing up the plastic, probably the biggest reason I haven't taken the radio out yet
The radio buttons on my dash went out right after my electrical warranty ended. Ive checked the fuses, and from videos ive watched when the radio is removed from the dash there are only 2 wiring harnesses connected to it, one for the radio/touchscreen and one for the ac buttons. Touch screen still works, buttons on steering wheel still work, its only the radio buttons on the dash that stopped. When they stopped, it weird. I got in the truck to run some errands and they weren't working, thought okay maybe a fuse ill fix it later. A couple hours later I was leaving again to go to oreillys and when I turned the truck on they were lit up and working again. Stayed working for 2 days, went out again and never came back on. Ill try and take some pictures when I leave work tonight to show how they don't come on. Any ideas? Could it be a relay even though the whole radio is part of one wiring harness?
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