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Tx_operator87

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About Tx_operator87

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  • Birthday 12/04/1987

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  1. $1500? That's crazy. Guess they realized how big of an issue it was and upcharged a lot. My quote wasn't from a dealer, but rather a local mechanic. Lucky for me, a buddy at work had done his the week prior and he helped me Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  2. I got mine from o'reilly's and at the time it was like 139 plus tax Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  3. I would suggest doing the replacement on your own, ~$150 compared to, what I was quoted, $500. Plenty of videos on youtube, take about 2-3 hours and a few cuss words, but not too bad. And rent a vacuum pump from o'reilly or autozone too Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  4. The 14s and 15s were notorious for the condenser leaking. Not sure about the 16s and up. Try looking through the grill on the driver's side and maybe even the passenger side and seeing if there's a wet spot on the side of the condenser where the weld is. Usually a slow leak but you'll see a wet spot. Mine would take 2-3 weeks to leak down Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  5. I had a 2015 silverado on stock rims with just a level from bilstein 5100s and 33x12.5 fit just fine, had the slightest rub at full lock in reverse, but that was it
  6. I put 295/60s (33.9x11.5) on my 16 before I did the leveling kit and had 0 issues, Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  7. I have one in my 2500 with the bed liner sprayed and I haven't noticed any rusting or corrosion. I do have a bed cover though so water never really gets on it to where it would speed oxidation up. I think it would take a very long time before/if it caused any noticable damage. Side note: I love mine, thinking about getting another for the passenger side Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  8. There's a hole on top of the headlight area, through the plastic cover, look in there and there'll be a Phillips head screw, just turn it left or right and it will raise/lower the headlight beams Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  9. Look into cognito leveling kit and UCAs. Or kryptonite UCAs are good too. It sounded like you had leveling keys which should be good for 2" over stock keys, but by the looks of your UCA's it doesn't look like the stock keys got changed at all. The basics you need are 2" leveling keys, UCAs and shock extenders. Some people will add a 1/2 diff drop spacer, but if your just going for level or Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  10. I know what you mean. I want to get the amp steps, but I'm torn just because then absolutely every vehicle will hit the door, and while I'm living in an apartment complex that's gonna be a no go Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  11. Those angles though [emoji15]. Your UCA's need to be level, there's not enough travel, and that ball joints not going to last long like that. The downfall of torsion bars is that no matter how right you do a level or lift, they still have a slight rough ride. A coilover conversion would be ideal, but they're costly and require some welding/modification of the frame. I personally went with the cognito leveling kit with UCAs, I also replaced the front and rear shocks with Bilstein 5100s. Altogether $1200 for parts. A buddy installed them for me for the price of me buying him lunch. Truck rides much better, the roads of Houston and surrounding areas aren't the best, so at times it will have a slight rough ride depending on how bad the roads are. For the majority of my driving, I have 0 complaints on the ride. Those ranchos don't help either Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  12. Do you have running boards? I've noticed mine stick out just enough that a car door will hit them, but anything higher like a SUV or truck will get the doors Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  13. I feel that. I have to see my truck in my mirrors, and i back into parking spots as well, the auto tilt on my tow mirrors help out for seeing how close to curbs or lines I am Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  14. Supposedly the correct way to adjust the mirrors is to sit in normal driving position and adjust driver side mirror to where the very rear of the car is just out of view. And for the passenger side you lean over to the center of the car and adjust the passenger mirror to where the rear of the vehicle is barely in the view while leaning over. I've tried it, it's different and hard to get used to because it's out of the norm. I moved them back to what I was comfortable with and just physically turn my head and look before I switch. On another note, I have the crash detection in my high country and while it has helped sometimes, it's also gotten me into a few too close for comfort situations on the highway while switching lanes, the adaptive cruise control sounds like it does a little of the same if you switch lanes and are behind someone closer than who you were following before. Not sure if I'd like that personally Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  15. Yea that would have been nice to tack on 39k more miles, but I've got that almost already with how much powertrain is left. The CPO didn't help me with the financing though, I was already pre approved through my credit union and my apr didn't change. Guess that would just be financing through gm, or maybe it'll help resale/trade in value down the road, I dunno. I don't fully understand it Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
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