Tx_operator87

There's a hole on top of the headlight area, through the plastic cover, look in there and there'll be a Phillips head screw, just turn it left or right and it will raise/lower the headlight beams Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Look into cognito leveling kit and UCAs. Or kryptonite UCAs are good too. It sounded like you had leveling keys which should be good for 2" over stock keys, but by the looks of your UCA's it doesn't look like the stock keys got changed at all. The basics you need are 2" leveling keys, UCAs and shock extenders. Some people will add a 1/2 diff drop spacer, but if your just going for level or Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I know what you mean. I want to get the amp steps, but I'm torn just because then absolutely every vehicle will hit the door, and while I'm living in an apartment complex that's gonna be a no go Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Those angles though [emoji15]. Your UCA's need to be level, there's not enough travel, and that ball joints not going to last long like that. The downfall of torsion bars is that no matter how right you do a level or lift, they still have a slight rough ride. A coilover conversion would be ideal, but they're costly and require some welding/modification of the frame. I personally went with the cognito leveling kit with UCAs, I also replaced the front and rear shocks with Bilstein 5100s. Altogether $1200 for parts. A buddy installed them for me for the price of me buying him lunch. Truck rides much better, the roads of Houston and surrounding areas aren't the best, so at times it will have a slight rough ride depending on how bad the roads are. For the majority of my driving, I have 0 complaints on the ride. Those ranchos don't help either Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Do you have running boards? I've noticed mine stick out just enough that a car door will hit them, but anything higher like a SUV or truck will get the doors Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I feel that. I have to see my truck in my mirrors, and i back into parking spots as well, the auto tilt on my tow mirrors help out for seeing how close to curbs or lines I am Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Supposedly the correct way to adjust the mirrors is to sit in normal driving position and adjust driver side mirror to where the very rear of the car is just out of view. And for the passenger side you lean over to the center of the car and adjust the passenger mirror to where the rear of the vehicle is barely in the view while leaning over. I've tried it, it's different and hard to get used to because it's out of the norm. I moved them back to what I was comfortable with and just physically turn my head and look before I switch. On another note, I have the crash detection in my high country and while it has helped sometimes, it's also gotten me into a few too close for comfort situations on the highway while switching lanes, the adaptive cruise control sounds like it does a little of the same if you switch lanes and are behind someone closer than who you were following before. Not sure if I'd like that personally Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Yea that would have been nice to tack on 39k more miles, but I've got that almost already with how much powertrain is left. The CPO didn't help me with the financing though, I was already pre approved through my credit union and my apr didn't change. Guess that would just be financing through gm, or maybe it'll help resale/trade in value down the road, I dunno. I don't fully understand it Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Toyo at2s 295/60 on stock rims. Cognito leveling kit with uca's and Bilstein 5100s all around. Tires went on before leveling kit with no rub whatsoever on factory ride height. About 1/2 inch clearance at full turn Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Bought a certified pre owned 2016 2500hd in March and the dealer told me the GM certified pre owned 1 year 12000 mile bumper to bumper warranty (I think thats the correct pre owned warranty gm gives) was good from the day I bought it. Didn't have any problems til April with the def but no warranty issues when I took it in either. It should be from the date purchased. My credit union wouldn't even finish the financing paperwork until the dealer sent the certified paperwork over Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

What does the plug and play kit consist of? And does it make it a full hmi unlock? Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Cognito leveling kit with uca's, bilstein 5100s all around, Toyo open country ATII 295/60/20 Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Yea,@pgamboa makes a plug and play harness that makes them flash with the turn signals Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

A guy I work with has a '14 1500 and tows his sxs on a 16 ft trailer loaded down with other stuff too, quite a bit. He is running the Toyo open country at ii and just changed them out around 80k on them. Another I work with has a 2011 2500hd with a 6.5 inch lift on 37s and runs the Toyo open country Mt and says he gets 75k out of them running them max psi the whole time, with occasional towing of a boat in the summer months. I have heard good and bad about nitto, but have not actually used them personally. I run the open country at ii on my 2500, dont really tow often, but as far as road noise and ride quality, I love them. Hope this helps a little. Also, the at ii comes with 50k mile warranty, a lot of the nittos and other Toyo don't have one at all from what I've seen Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I'm from the Houston area as well and in my years of driving, the only problems I've ever had with bad fuel was from a Shell station. I tend to stick to Kroger for the discount, HEB, or buccees. Have never had a problem with any of them or any injector problems Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk