Bleepster

because I am somewhat of a "newb" - what does it mean to "complete the evap"?

hello fellow truckers. can anyone recommend a good brand of black splined Lugnut's that won't rust after 2 years? these are the ones i bought 2 years ago, and they are rusting already Amazon.com: Orion Motor Tech M14x1.5 Lug Nuts Black with Spline Tuner, XL 2 inches Length Conical Wheel Nut, Compatible with Chevy GMC Ford Cadillac Lincoln SAAB Saturn Silverado 1500 Savana, Set of 24 : Automotive is there a better brand out there?

its still milky? maybe run a flush, refill and new filter and as stated, keep checking

sorry for the no reply. yes - i did solve this problem this past summer. I did have a broken wire in the wire harness that runs thru the driver door. if i remember the wire was green. that didn't fix my problem, however. I ended up replacing ALL window switches in all 4 doors. problem has since been gone.

hello. 2011 Silverado, 5.3L Crew Cab. In the next few weeks i am going to have a frame shop here locally repair a rust out on my frame. they are telling me that most likely the support rail over the gas tank may need replacing. they recommend replacing it for good measure and while the tank is dropped, replace fuel pump. I tend to agree. can anyone tell me if this is the correct frame rail support that goes over top the gas tank? Amazon.com: Dorman 999-965 Rear Front Fuel Tank Crossmember Compatible with Select Chevrolet/GMC Models (OE FIX) : Automotive thank you

the top one, says it excludes "LT and SLT", so i don't think that's the one you want I'd call the dealership, have them print out the part number based on your RPO/VIN - to me it's the only way to be 100% sure.

that's the thing. we are not sure what the previous owner did. trying to find out. appreciate all the feedback

thanks for the information. its Monday, and I am a bit foggy - so, I will instruct him to look for the digits stamped on the block. once he has those digits, what are we looking for? IE - the LAST 6 digits on MY vin are 382696 and the eight digit of my VIN is 3

father-in-law has a 2011 Silverado, 5.3L. previous owner swapped motors. how can we tell if the new motor is E85 compliant? we cannot get a hold of the previous owner. thanks

so, the cable worked. was exact fit. and thanks to the first video posted by Jworks, it took me 30 minutes. Power Lock, remote start, everything works and fits well. the part I listed was $12, the Dorman version (924-481) is $50 - not sure why. but problem solved.

cable comes in today. hold on to your butts. I'll let everyone know how it goes.

thanks for the videos - I have taken the door panel off many a time. I had a broken handle last year. now the cable. the first video showed will help a lot. I think I ordered the right part (cable). my cable comes in Tuesday, so I will report back at that time.

2011 Silverado LT 5.3L 136K Power Locks and Factory remote start. the cable that goes from the interior door handle to the lock broke. the head broke off at the handle. i think I may have ordered the right part to replace it. I didn't realize there were different sized cables for manual locks, power locks, and what does remove start have to do with anything. anyway, this is the cable i bought. its 25.8" long. Amazon.com: Sousery Inside Door Handle Latch Release Cable Compatible with 2007-2014 Chevy Tahoe Sierra Yukon Silverado Escalade,25.8" Door Latch Cable Replace 924-481, 22862028 : Automotive can anyone confirm I got the right one? I didn't take my old one off yet and I wont until I get the replacement. and I cannot seem to find any tutorials on how to replace (i only find videos for manual locks) any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks

if there is a firmware update, i do not know about it. i am not even sure how to tell if one is available

if your belts are not slipping or squealing, tensioners are fine. you can also watch them while truck is running and see if they are "bouncing" around.

My 2011 does this as well. has done it since I owned it. bought it with 40k on it - currently at 136k. still doing it with no issues. I assume it's the nature of the beast. slowdown, turn corner, accelerate and "SLAM" or "CLUNK" - not always - but it happens. I think it's the computer not knowing what gear to put the tranny in at the specific RPM

good to know. i wasnt sure.

i had the same cylinder foul out on my 2011 5.3L. i replaced all the plugs and put in the AFM delete into the OBDII port and no problem ever since. this was 30K ago do you have Active Fuel Management (AFM)? not saying this is the cause of the fouling, just sharing my experience

i have seen videos on people replacing the sensor and some of them recommended blowing out the sensor "tube" with compressed air. maybe yours is plugged deep down preventing oil from going up the passage to the sensor. Just a thought.

Daily Driver

can you just let it hang and wrap the bulb in electrical tape and secure it somewhere?

my mechanic always does a full inspection when I take it in for oil changes. he noticed on my 2011 Silverado that I had a rust out about 6" long. I took it to a frame shop and they said it wasn't that bad - they cleaned it up and put an inhibitor on it to stop the rust. we are going to revisit it again this coming fall. and regardless of what they find I am going to have them weld in new metal and replace the rail support above the fuel tank. while the tank is down, might as well replace fuel pump. about $1500 worth of work. I wash my truck 1x per week or more in the winter (includes bottom blast) i have 130k on it currently.

or he could come here for an answer - lol

keep us posted - with pics if you can

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