So in 2wd it will pull to driver side? Can you explain why? I don’t know a ton about differentials but I have a basic understanding. Why would it have a load spinning the front driveshaft? Does the open diff in the front allow the wheel to spin while the driveshaft doesn’t and then a locker would make the driveshaft and driver wheel locked together?
I’m wanting to have a front locker in my 2015 Sierra 1500. If I can just weld the gears that would be even better because Im a on a tight budget but I am a good welder. From my research and understanding it seems like the front differential has a disconnect so that in 2wd a locker (or welded gears) in the front wouldn’t make a difference. It would only be noticeable when the center axle disconnect is engaged due to 4wd being engaged. Does this sound correct and does anyone have experience with this? Also its on 35s and I know that the strength or the front end isn’t great and I would have to be very careful with a locked front end. This is also a daily driver but it seems like this would not effect anything while in 2wd.
I’ve been having some issues with the exhaust system I built for my 2015 Sierra 1500 5.3. There is way too much drone. I have TSP long tube headers with a catted y pipe going to a manual exhaust cutout, then some pipe, a flow master 50 series, more pipe, then turns out the side before the axle and sticks out maybe an inch past the quarter panel (all 3in pipe). The muffler could be moved foreword or back. Also I don’t have an exhaust tip. With the cutout closed it is not very loud at idle or on the throttle but when cruising it has a terrible drone. It’s very annoying. Because of this I’ve been leaving the cutout open all the time. With it open, it’s very loud and I have to watch it around cops but cruising on highway it isn’t annoying and it doesn’t have any drone cruising. I’d like to modify the system in two ways. I want to get rid of the drone and I want to switch to a louder muffler, probably a glass pack. The 50 series it way too mild for me. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Yes, I have front and rear o2s. I had to extend one of them since they’re much further back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I got it tuned about 2 weeks ago but I’ve had the headers on for 2 months so it was driven without tuning for a while. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I definitely wouldn’t do a wrap because this truck sees a lot of mud and that would be a nightmare. I was thinking about fabricating a shield out of mild steel that would bolt to the trans crossmember and sit in between. I just changed the trans fluid not that long ago so I’d rather not have to change it again prematurely for cost and labor involved. The fluid doesn’t look burnt and trans temps are normal. The gap is about 1/4” on a tiny part but most of it there’s more than 1/2”. I think im gonna check the torque on the bolts and make sure they are tight enough.
A few months ago I installed a set of Texas Speed and Performance long tube headers and the catted y pipe they offer. Some then ive noticed the front of the transmission pan leaks a little bit. The bolt heads have trans fluid on them all the time and every now and then it drips onto the exhaust and I can smell it. I believe this is due to the heat from the catalytic converter that is positioned directly below the trans pan. I haven’t noticed any higher trans temperature and the fluid level of the trans hasn’t gotten low so it not a bad leak, just an annoying smell mostly. I’m trying to decide what to do and I thought I’d get y’alls opinion. I was thinking about making a heat shield to go between the cat and the trans pan. or maybe just tightening the bolts on the trans pan, if I remember correctly the torque spec on those is pretty low and the added heat from the cat might be enough to make it leak. Thanks for any input.
I added a 68 Ohm resistor on each of the clearance wires and it worked well. If you wanted it to be dimmer you could use a bigger resistor but I tried a few and liked the brightness with the 68 Ohm. The video makes it harder to see than it actually is but you can see the change in brightness. 78A00515-9EA6-4BBF-A0C1-BFEA3340BE93.mp4
You need to use diodes on both sides because if you didn't have one on the clearance side, your blinker would backfeed and make your lights on both sides of the truck blink. If you didn't have one on the signal side, at night your blinkers on the corners of the truck wouldn't work. "using a resistor and a diode on clearance and only a diode on the other side (signal), with the right value for each, could get the job done for "dual fonctions"?" Yes, that is correct.
Here’s a little drawing of the circuit that you’d need to make. You just need to get some rectifier diodes. You can order a bunch on amazon for a few bucks. I think I ordered 100 for $6. They are pretty much like a check valve for electricity, it allows flow in one direction but not the other direction. You can solder them inline with the wire you want to use it on. I forget which diode specifically I used but I think a 1N5819 would work. The way I have it set up, if your clearance lights are off, the signal blinks when you use the blinker. If you have the clearance lights on, the blinker does not make it any brighter, it just stays lit indifferently. I think you can use resistors to change the brightness of the clearance light so the blinker would be brighter but I don’t havnt done it before so I’m not 100% sure. If you wanted to expiriment a little bit, you could get some resistors and try connecting one on the clearance light side.
I realize I also never updated this after I contacted boost auto. They replaced the light and I think I had to pay a little bit to upgrade to their new version for the other side so they would match. The new version seems to work a lot better. I haven’t had any issues since I installed them 9 months ago.
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