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About Cash214

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  • Birthday 06/27/1999

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  1. Yes, I have front and rear o2s. I had to extend one of them since they’re much further back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. I got it tuned about 2 weeks ago but I’ve had the headers on for 2 months so it was driven without tuning for a while. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I definitely wouldn’t do a wrap because this truck sees a lot of mud and that would be a nightmare. I was thinking about fabricating a shield out of mild steel that would bolt to the trans crossmember and sit in between. I just changed the trans fluid not that long ago so I’d rather not have to change it again prematurely for cost and labor involved. The fluid doesn’t look burnt and trans temps are normal. The gap is about 1/4” on a tiny part but most of it there’s more than 1/2”. I think im gonna check the torque on the bolts and make sure they are tight enough.
  4. A few months ago I installed a set of Texas Speed and Performance long tube headers and the catted y pipe they offer. Some then ive noticed the front of the transmission pan leaks a little bit. The bolt heads have trans fluid on them all the time and every now and then it drips onto the exhaust and I can smell it. I believe this is due to the heat from the catalytic converter that is positioned directly below the trans pan. I haven’t noticed any higher trans temperature and the fluid level of the trans hasn’t gotten low so it not a bad leak, just an annoying smell mostly. I’m trying to decide what to do and I thought I’d get y’alls opinion. I was thinking about making a heat shield to go between the cat and the trans pan. or maybe just tightening the bolts on the trans pan, if I remember correctly the torque spec on those is pretty low and the added heat from the cat might be enough to make it leak. Thanks for any input.
  5. I added a 68 Ohm resistor on each of the clearance wires and it worked well. If you wanted it to be dimmer you could use a bigger resistor but I tried a few and liked the brightness with the 68 Ohm. The video makes it harder to see than it actually is but you can see the change in brightness. 78A00515-9EA6-4BBF-A0C1-BFEA3340BE93.mp4
  6. You need to use diodes on both sides because if you didn't have one on the clearance side, your blinker would backfeed and make your lights on both sides of the truck blink. If you didn't have one on the signal side, at night your blinkers on the corners of the truck wouldn't work. "using a resistor and a diode on clearance and only a diode on the other side (signal), with the right value for each, could get the job done for "dual fonctions"?" Yes, that is correct.
  7. Here’s a little drawing of the circuit that you’d need to make. You just need to get some rectifier diodes. You can order a bunch on amazon for a few bucks. I think I ordered 100 for $6. They are pretty much like a check valve for electricity, it allows flow in one direction but not the other direction. You can solder them inline with the wire you want to use it on. I forget which diode specifically I used but I think a 1N5819 would work. The way I have it set up, if your clearance lights are off, the signal blinks when you use the blinker. If you have the clearance lights on, the blinker does not make it any brighter, it just stays lit indifferently. I think you can use resistors to change the brightness of the clearance light so the blinker would be brighter but I don’t havnt done it before so I’m not 100% sure. If you wanted to expiriment a little bit, you could get some resistors and try connecting one on the clearance light side.
  8. I realize I also never updated this after I contacted boost auto. They replaced the light and I think I had to pay a little bit to upgrade to their new version for the other side so they would match. The new version seems to work a lot better. I haven’t had any issues since I installed them 9 months ago.
  9. If you would like a more DIY solution I can show you how I did mine. I no longer am having any issues with them, they work very well. Mine blink when the clearance lights are off and stay steadily lit when the clearance lights are on.
  10. I finished installing my Abrams Flex3 red emergency lights and a wigwag flasher for my fog lights and reverse lights. I also installed an Abrams explorer 200w siren with 2 siren speakers in the grill. 157A0C69-02F4-4718-92A7-1584C371EDA9.mp4
  11. I have a 6in lift kit on my truck so it sits pretty tall anyways so I didn’t need to use a lift or put it on jack stands. You might want it a little bit higher to easily maneuver underneath to get the old y pipe out and long tube headers in. I know some people put those little wheel ramps that you can use for oil changes and stuff under there and that’s enough room. I got the catted y pipe from TSP. It all goes together well and the figment was great. I didn’t have any issues once I got them in. They don’t touch anything and I didn’t have to modify anything to fit them. For the 2015 trucks you do need an o2 sensor wire extension for after the driver side cat. On the website it lists that they are only needed for the 16+ trucks but it is incorect. The bung for the driver o2 sensor is right where the y pipe connects the two pipes into 1 pipe all the way on the passenger side. I would recommend a 24in extension minimum. I’m gonna modify the wires on mine myself later this weekend. I’m really happy with everything so far. With the catted y pipe you can still get some gas smell from the exhaust which I really enjoy but you may want to go with some different cats than the ones TSP provides if you don’t want any fumes. That being said it’s currently not hooked up to any pipes after the y so it dumps under the cab and I can only smell it with the windows down or walking up to the truck. With the windows up I don’t get any fumes in the cab even with it exiting right under the cab.
  12. Nevermind about the driveshaft stuff. I got them in from the top, had to move my onboard air compressor mount.
  13. Alright, so I got the passenger side header on but I’m working on the driver side now and running into issues. I think if the yoke (not sure if that’s the correct word or not for this one but the thing in the picture) was out of the way it would help a lot. Is it as simple as removing that nut and taking it off or would more stuff come off and fluid come out? To specify I’m wanting to remove the black part that straps to the u joint.
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