cs15dah

Ah, gotcha. I misread and misunderstood. After reading 14 pages of well unrelated content in this thread, I lost track of what the Katech was.

Isn’t that one of the main reasons why this thread started? The OP buying just the internals, in the form of the Katech 17, and installing into his existing TBV? But I get it. You’re specifically asking about OEM GM internals. The pill flip is free. So yeah, I see why folks tend to want to do that. But for less than the cost of a tank of fuel, one could buy the new 70c TBV. I see they’re available on eBay for $50-80, shipped. GM Parts Giant about the same price; maybe just a bit more. My opinion, I’d only want to do the job once. Not that it’s hard. I’m just lazy. So I’d rather spend the $50+ up front and do the job just once. Just my recommendation, if you plan on doing the new TBV down the road anyways. Has anyone done the pill flip, or the Katech 17, with the TBV still on the truck? I can’t imagine it being done without a lot of difficulty. So if you’re having to take the TBV off the truck anyways, may be less work to just swap in the new TBV. Sheesh. Reading the above it looks like I make commission off of TBV sales! Not really trying to sway your decision. Really just saying it may not be worth doing the free mod now, if you’re just going to do the $50+ mod later anyways.

I'm sending in a sample too. This’ll be the first time for trans fluid in my Suburban. I usually only do the oil.

With the Mityvac, how'd you get that spill??

Yes, I bought mine from Amazon. No additional tubes needed. There are two dipstick tubes different diameters, then a main suction tube. I connected the larger of the two dipstick tubes together with the main suction tube, which should be about 10 ft in total. Plenty of length to stick down into the trans pan with the main reservoir sitting on the ground next to the front tire. Prior to sliding the tube in, I compared the length of tube side-by-side with the dipstick, so I'd know what depth I was trying to hit. Then slid it in up to that mark, and then an inch or two more until I felt a bit of resistance, which I think is just the tube bottoming out at the bottom of the trans pan. Pumped it up, and it worked beautifully. I can't believe I haven't bought one of these before! Especially since I like to do the drain & fill three times to get the most fresh fluid into the transmission. I used GM Dexron VI this time. Last time, 53,130 miles ago I used Valvoline MaxLife. I don't have specific brands I stick to. Usually just the best price on a quality lubricant. 166K miles so far on my 2015 Suburban and no issues whatsoever. I use Mopar fluids on my Ram 2500, nothing fancy, and I got 386K on the transmission before it needed a rebuild. 443K on it now and still going strong. Yesterday on a cool 68F night, I took a 40 mile drive at 60 MPH and the average trans fluid temp was 176F. Got into town where it was 25-30 MPH with stop and gos and I saw it reach a max of 186F. Prior to this new TBV, I'd usually see around 196F, with stop and gos getting into 200-209F.

Installed tonight. Since I was in there already, replaced 4.5 qts of Dexron VI. Got to use my new Mityvac MV7400. Holy smokes, why didn’t I buy one of these decades ago?! Sure made the fluid swap a whole heck of a lot easier. And cleaner!

Looks like I just answered my own question. My transmission cooler lines (23370657) came in today. The attached TBV does indeed have 70 marked on the bottom.

Can you just buy new o-rings, when placing your order for the new TBV? Is 23135703 the part number for the o-rings? My lines (23370657) are leaking up front where they go from rubber to metal. So I'll be ordering new lines as well as the new TBV. Appears the new lines does come with the o-rings on the (old) TBV, so I'll be able to swap them out before installing. Do you think eventually the lines will just come with the 70c thermostat already installed?

eBay has two right now. Both are less than $30 with shipping.

OMG!! Glad to hear the family was safe. How scary…

Not the wire taps that "splice" into the factory wiring, but push pins that slide into the connector along the bare wire that's already exposed. Here's an example, and they work really well and really easy: https://blendmount.com/mirrortap

Still under warranty? That's probably the easiest. Hard to tell what's going on without looking into the tank and seeing what the float is doing. Generally, just a rheostat, which the contact area "may" be worn, but unlikely. Here's a pic of what the rheostat looks like: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1438365-sending-unit-repair-success.html

If checking grounds/wires doesn't pan out, personally I'd just put in a new alternator. You already know it's bad, might as well replace that and eliminate it as the source of the problems you had. Anything wonky about the electrical system can indeed make any of the computers (yes, the instrument cluster is a computer) go haywire. Low voltage can indeed make any of the computers on-board "reboot."

What are you expecting to hear? It's pretty much a high frequency radio wave, sooooo... Best thing you can do it take it to the dealer. If you want to try to troubleshoot it yourself, the next best thing you can do is purchase a OBDII code reader that will read the individual modules in your truck. Not a basic code reader that just scans OBDII codes, but one that will actually pull ALL the codes in ALL the modules. My favorite, and one I currently own, is the ArtiDiag800BT. But, you don't have to go that fancy. There are others that are less than 1/4 that price (and many more that are much more expensive). More than likely, you'll find a code which will point you in the right direction. Be it a sensor, a module, etc.

Why not use wire taps into the back of your rear view mirror? You can buy the wire taps off eBay fairly cheap and Google or YouTube to see which wire to use.

5500#? Stock setup should have been just fine. I’ve pulled 7000# up slight grades through TN, VA, GA, etc with ease. Are you climbing bigger hills than out here? Just my opinion but you’re putting a lot of unnecessary worry and a lot of unneeded work into it. If I were you, I’d more focus on your braking system. Especially going down those same grades you’re concerned about climbing. Not only potentially adding a brake controller, but just ensure your pads and rotors are up for the job. Hot brakes are a real thing. Not to mention tires. Last year I did 7000 miles over the course of 10 days. I was surprised how much less tread depth I had on the rear tires than I did on the front. Not to mention how “squared off” the wear was. There was a clear difference between the almost sharp right angles of the tire edges as compared to the rounded off front tires. Since I normally only tow short distances, and rotate my tires regularly, I’ve never notice this before. Regardless of how you’ll be set up, gas mileage will be horrendous, as expected. Good luck on your trip!

Any luck? Post the codes and someone should be able to help steer you in the right direction.

Oh, and the flashing means the computer detected misfires. There are some known causes, but further troubleshooting is required. It could be a long list of causes, and wide range of costs. Without further troubleshooting you’d just be guessing and potentially wasting money.

It means you should have the DTC codes read then evaluate from there. Places like Autozone or similar will read your codes for you for free. Or places like Amazon you can buy your own code reader for very little money.

Tried to order that part from GMPartsGiant but found out it’s discontinued and no longer available. I believe the failed one in my truck is an aftermarket one, so taking measurements on it isn’t reliable. If anyone has the storage box and has time to measure, would you please let me know the length of the OEM strut both fully open and fully compressed? I wish there was some way of telling how many pounds the OEM one is... Thanks!

Yes, it’s working correctly.

Flashing may mean there’s a misfire going on. Check for pending DTCs. Does the flashing maintenance indicator light happen when you’re accelerating or cruising? Quality fuel is always good and always should be used. But 87 octane is all you need. “Supreme” does nothing for you. That word is simply a marketing scheme. These trucks do not require high octane. Folks have mixed outcomes with using a fuel injection/system cleaner. The likely hood that this’ll help your problem is awfully low, but may be worth a shot. You can buy fuel injector/system cleaner locally, or just use high quality detergent fuels.

May be an ignition coil. Check for pending DTC. Eventually, it’ll set an actual DTC.

That part number appears to work! Found another site which shows "gasoline strut" in the description. Awesome, I'll get it on order. HINGE, Load Carrier Stowage Compartment, HINGE,LOAD FLOOR COMPARTMENT COVER(PART OF 1)(GASOLINE STRUT)

Brand appears to be AVM. APY22145 is listed on the left and 1024 on the right. Couldn't find any info on those numbers, or AVM, online. I'm thinking maybe the previous owner replaced the OEM strut with this one, and it's not correct. It doesn't "appear" to be worn out, but definitely won't hold up the lid. So maybe the weight is wrong. I measured the strut from ball to ball at 12.8" Closest I could find online was 12.5" with a 24 lbs force. Installed it, and also does not support the weight of the lid. I couldn't find a 12.5" with a heavier force. Next length up is 13" but is also 24 lbs. Moving the lid, appears 13" would fit. But if it too is 24 lbs, not sure the extra 0.2" will make any difference. I see some longer lengths that have a force of 70 lbs, but think that's way too much. At 24 lbs, it seems like I'd need maybe another 10 or 20 lbs to make it work.