Grinnen

To be fair I haven't felt a torque converter rumble when there was no torque applied. That's what makes the whole situation odd because it feels like it's glazed. However a bad valve body which is screwing up the pressurizing in the transmission can do this.

It honestly feels like it could be 2 things. One is a bad or crappy designed torque converter. I read somewhere that the Silverado is using some parts from the Corvette and that they are trying to cheapen production by using duplicate parts. I have felt a bad torque converter before and honestly that is what it feels like, but it's odd because the rumble for almost everyone is at low RPM at EVERY speed. This leads me to believe that it is the valve body causing it and at low RPM the pressure isn't being held properly which is why we all see it while slowing down. I'm almost betting we see this as a TSB in the future. Either way it feels like the transmission is taking a dump.

Mine does the same thing and I also have the transmission rumble. What a piece of trash this truck is turning out to be. The dealership is waiting for a new valve body for the transmission, they are hoping that fixes the issues.

To be honest you can buy the material, trim to size, tap the holes and get 8 longer bolts if you just want to change the height. I think what needs to be looked into is changing the seat angle so they are tilted back a bit to cup the occupant.

Would this work on the power seats? Even those have no decent camber adjustment...it'll spill you out of the seat but not tilt back enough to cup you in it.

I will leave this here...

Does this also smooth out the issue of the rear rebound/skitter that the trucks have? I imagine it would since all the springs have to react as one rather than at different points. I guess for the few bucks to install them it'd be worth a try, but if anyone has any experience drop it on me

The Silverado/Sierra also uses engine braking on hills and the like, it's why when you're slowing down it feels like something loosens then clamps down. This reduces brake wear and tear and allows to haul heavy as hell loads. Larger tires are no different than hauling a few extra hundred pounds and braking. The trucks are set up for this. Now, if you are doing a tonne of hills and braking, or like to speed like a rabbit on crack then they may help you out a bit. They aren't needed, but well, to be honest, they would be a mighty fine upgrade even though the average driver will never need them, and even using larger tires on these trucks it's questionable. I'm betting upgrading to these would allow one to run their brakes without changing for a fair amount longer.

Quick question : Are these running boards the ones for the crew cab Sierra 1500? I believe they are since there are 4 mounting brackets and it's 82 inches long.

Currently from all pickups I have driven the Dodge Ram Outdoorsman was like driving a sofa sitting on a cloud over calm water. No other pickup I have driven has a ride of that quality. Too bad their suspensions die quickly (among a few other issues). I won't quote everyone but dcarl pretty well nailed what I was trying to get across. More coils that are a smaller diameter in thickness, and at the same height as stock, would offer a much more forgiving ride I think. Same with the rear, 3 leaves VS 5 thinner leaves would provide a more supple ride. The spring rates would have to match though. The heavy duty coils and rear leaves are meant for work trucks on most of the 1500 series. I have a feeling that these are what people are feeling that are giving the rough ride versus the Rancho stock shocks (which aren't perfect by any means but I don't think are helped by the coils/leaves). When people put in a lift this all changes and gives a better ride (so I have also experienced) Now I need to research what coil/leaf combo would give that softer ride I'm seeking.

Nobody ever understands what Octane does. The higher the octane the higher the ignition temperature. Some vehicles, mainly older ones, require a higher octane due to pre-ignition because of how engine heat is concentrated in areas, or to stop it from igniting in the cylinder (again, because of heat) before the spark sets it off. That's it, that's all. Nothing magic about a higher octane unless you've changed your engine/ignition system in a significant way that makes it require a higher octane. Proper truck geometry will net the highest gains. When they are tested in the wind tunnel and configured for aerodynamics they are flat, as in no tires and held on a lift/table. When they are sold they have that rake added because of the suspension which is meant to carry heavy loads in the rear. Just installing a level kit added almost 1km/liter to my mileage. I've been tracking it for a long time via fill ups, the trucks trip recordings and calculations. I went from 12.4L/100km to 11.6L/100km (22-23MPG to 25-26MPG). You can call me out on this if you desire, but I don't care. I'm passing along my experience. - A tonneau cover will help mileage on the factory suspension because it covers the open bed which destroys any aerodynamics when the trucks ass is in the air. When level it doesn't do a lot. - Alignment : if they aren't tracking properly this can really affect mileage - Tires : Not a larger tire but more the tread pattern will affect MPG. I went on my older vehicle (AMC Eagle with full Jeep drivetrain swap) from a street tire to a luggy as hell AT tire and lost about 1/5 of my mileage. But meh. - Accessories : Ever see those ugly ass fender flares that some places sell that stick out 3-4" to cover the tire? Morons with huge spoilers on their Cavaliers and Sunfires that only work if you're capable of 170 miles an hour? Yeah..may as well add a parachute to the rear. - Lift kits : they can affect mileage but only because of the larger disproportionate tires needing more horsies to turn and causing a bit of wind resistance. The lift in itself leaves vehicle geometry the same. However if the vehicle was designed to squat at higher speeds a lift kit will ruin it...but that's not what a pickup was designed for. - Vehicles learn how a person drives and over time will adapt to this for the best MPG. If you swap drivers this can affect it initially but over time it will adapt. In the end your driving a 5000 pound 6' tall brick, with great capability and usefulness. You'll never achieve amazing mileage

Yes, the 1500's is what I'm referring to. I've driven all kinds and years of truck in Canada, US and Europe and I'm aware of how they drive. I don't need the standard "they drive rough" because that's repeating exactly what I've said. You haven't driven rough till you've rode in a old UAZ with sagged out suspension. So please, no more posts that don't help to answer the question.

I've replaced my stock shocks with the Bilstein 5100s for a much more planted, sturdy ride that doesn't feel like I'm riding a carnival ride. I noticed while swapping that the coils are extremely stiff and thick, a professional suspension guy agreed and said it was probably set up for the truck to not squat too hard when it had a plow installed. He stated, and I agree, that the coils would be a huge part of the rough ride (along with the rear leafs but he claimed that the rear was a common pickup issue, just toss 100-150 pounds in the rear) Question I have is this : Has anyone replaced the stock coils with aftermarket which doesn't change the height by more than an inch but offers less of a harsh ride? I suspect more coils with less of a thickness would solve this issue.

It just made me realize I was looking and thinking about it all wrong. At the top setting there isn't any more preload like people say. It's not condensing the coil in any way. The coil is the exact same length as stock, it's just extending the shock a bit because moving the ring makes it sit higher up. People saying it's a bit more harsh, I really don't see how. The coil characteristics haven't changed, neither has the shock besides being extended a bit more. I know what my plan is now.

So keep the 5100s at stock and use the leveling kit would be a smoother ride over setting shocks at the highest setting? I'm aiming the best ride possible

Would you recommend the leveling kit and stock seeing for the 5100?

I would like to know someone who has rode on the 5100 at lowest settings and at top settings so we could know, from experience and not 3rd party anecdotal heresay, how the ride differs on and off road.

I imagine putting a busted pogostick under there would be better than stock

Does the setting on high or low change its dampening characteristics? Or does it just change the stiffness when you're driving for a sportier feel?

Question : is the ride quality on the top setting any different than on the bottom setting? The only things I can find are people who don't own them saying that they "heard" it was stiffer. Doesn't make sense to me because the adjustments are extending the shock, not limiting down travel. Input?

For the 5100s, to get my front level should I use the highest setting on the shock? Or is it a better idea to get a small 2" leveling kit?

For the 5100 to get my front level should I use the highest setting on the shock or is it a better idea to get a small 2" leveling kit?

Anthony could your send me a copy of my rpo code is I send your the vin?

I just bought a 2018 Sierra 1500 with the tow package. It rides harsh and stiff, no surprise. I almost wanted to take it back after a few days of driving it. I feel every nook and cranny in the road, but other than that the truck drives nice. The feeling that I may get launched into orbit is disconcerting,and I feel exhausted after taking a road trip in it. So Bilstein 5100 are the answer to the stiff bouncy ride eh? Any offer models known to smooth the ride out considerably?