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Farewell! My Silverado is gone and now in the hands of someone else's fate now. Long story short I got to a point where I had too many upgrades/repairs that I know needed to be done this year, rather have dumped that money into a new truck considering in 3 years I put 110,000 miles on a truck that only had 11,300 miles. I do thinks like... broken sway bar stud? No problem, lets go with Hellwig. I had some equity and dumped it before it started dwindling. Couldn't pass up the deal I got for trading it in on a 3/4 ton Ram 2500. Thanks to all of you that had discussions with me in messages, all the informative DIY posts here, and all the knowledge gleaned from everyone. Farewell, still a soft spot in my heart for K2's, but it's time to move on.

My OEM brakes lasted around 105K before I needed to change them. I ended up changing the rotors too and went with the Z36 Power Stop package and so far I am very pleased with the results. I just wish they shipped more than one set of caliper pin boots for the rear brakes, changed both sets out on the front brakes. Also went with good Permatex ceramic brake lubricant over the little packets that came with them.

Same exact thing happened to me last month. Dead battery in the driveway, wouldn't even turn over click-click-click. Tried to jumper my starter in the fuse box and that was dead also. New battery, new starter, fired right up like a champ.

I'm not familiar with the Morimoto package and you didn't mention touching your turn signals, but I also had this problem going from halogen bulbs to LED bulbs. I had to add resistors to the turn signals in order to keep them from hyper flashing.

Since we're on the topic of audio here, I'm going to chime in. I'm going through this myself right now (again). Can't remember how long ago it was but I swapped out my door speakers for what I thought would be better but it sounds like garbage and I think my HU already blew one of my tweeters. Some good info in this thread, now I didn't realize that signal mix sends more to the tweeter from the Bose digital processor but I have the non-Bose setup. Does the HU still do this or is it strictly from the digital processor in the Bose setup? I've seen in a couple of different threads there is an amp I can add to clean up the signal to the door speakers. I feel like they need more power to clean up, maybe they're clipping from the HU. So now I can't decide if I want to try and clean up what I have now or go straight to pulling everything out and doing a proper cross over setup...then an 8" or 10" sub somewhere for proper bass. I like the factory Kicker setup GM offers. I also like the idea of going custom and getting a separate amp rack built just for the sub and install another one just for the speakers. Do they make a-pillars that already have the tweeter pods in them or is everyone making those themselves? I don't have the resources to do that myself but would like to get my tweeters out of the dash and freed up. It's a tight space and the wires I had to splice are junk wiring too (not the wiring I used, talking about the stock wiring).

Keep in mind that U1510 actually associates a K code with it that breaks down U1510 into a more generalized fault message. U1510 is for a LIN communication problem, but somewhere in that LIN bus network, it then breaks down to a K code. I could be wrong but I researched this for a few hours the other day and this is the general info I'm finding.

This is one reason why I want to overhaul my system further and add an amp to give the door speakers more juice. I went with Sundown all around and honestly feel they should sound better than they do.....which is why I'm thinking they aren't getting enough juice. Can the amp for the door speakers be added without the whole sub setup or does it come as part of the kit?

Oh. Okay. I stand corrected then. I didn't actually read the article so my fault.

New to doing my own plugs. Do they require setting the gap or certain torque spec or having them timed at the right torque angle? Or are they just screw in and go? I'm coming up on 70K soon and would like to do my plugs early as well. Let me know, interested in how critical what I asked is. Hate that so much. Washed and looking sexy in black, then covered in road salt by time I even get home. She's just a dirty hoe I guess.

It takes about a month for them to get back to me the way their backlog is right now. They go by oldest email sent and work towards current, so if you send another email, that sends you back to the top of the current list and even further down their "backlog". Not the best practice IMO but it must work for them if they stay busy. Have to be patient, I guess, or like other say, switch to HP Tuners and learn to do it yourself in their suite.

Does this require having the initial Bose setup in order to work? Thought it required something from the head unit to be plug-n-play but only the Bose systems have that. I don't have the Bose system but already upgraded my door speakers. Slightly annoyed with them though, have some distortion at 75% volume. May have to rethink the door speakers later but I need more bass, that "I can feel it in my butt" bass.

Replying to save this for later. I'm in the same boat with a U1510 error code, which my tuner says is a faulty HVAC control module. Did you ever get a replacement and/or get access to where the module actually is? I think I want to pull the connector and check it before doing anything extensive but have no clue where this module is located.

I have the GoRecon stubby antenna and have no issues with AM/FM or HD radio, albeit I am mostly in metro areas too though... https://gorecon.com/product/aluminum-8-antenna-fits-oem-factory-threaded-antenna-in-black/ EDIT: Only issue I have is the black doesn't last long in the sun. Probably had it just over a year now and the black has faded to a sun worn brownish bronze. May just give it a fresh powder coat and call it a day.

Doubt they're 6,000 as the stock HID bulbs are only 2,000 lumens each with a 4,500K color temperature. 4,500K for color temperature on stock HID bulbs so I'll assume the rest of the lights are right there or very close. When I swapped my HID bulbs to higher wattage, I went with 5,000 and can't tell the difference. Only had the option of 4K, 5K, and 6K. Didn't want the ice blue of the 6K so kept the 5K as close to stock DRL and fogs as possible.

Getting a check engine light, reads U1510, no K code. Tuner is reading it as "faulty HVAC control module". Anyone dealt with this before? Have searched the forum with no luck on this particular K code. They all refer to other K codes under U1510 and suggesting to remove connectors, clean them, maybe add dielectric grease, and reseat. Well, obviously this one isn't going to be easy to get to. They also suggest removing the negative battery cable for quite some time then try again. Tried that, didn't help. Odd thing with this CEL is it only comes on if I try to remote start my truck. Went a week with manually starting with the key, no CEL. As soon as I try remote start, throws a CEL and won't remote start. Otherwise, truck runs fine with no other issue. EDIT: Wanted to add that I have no issues with my HVAC, air is cold with A/C and heat is hot when cranked up. Only noticeable issue is changing fan speed seems to have a delay now, 2-4 seconds before fans ramp up or slow down. Related? I don't know. Is this control module in the dash? I hope not. I hate dash work. Don't think I want to go to stealership yet. Read a lot of talk about them not having a generic starting point with U1510 due to complexity of K codes so usually ends up being a 3-5 day ordeal. Not interested.