PabloK

drive up to MN! too expensive to ship!

2019 AT4 fully loaded.. 43,000 miles dealer gave me a check for 56k! handing her in tomorrow. will order a 2022 when supply levels out. BUY LOW SELL HIGH!!!!!!!!

i spent months dialing in the perfect setup for such application you want 285/55/22 Nitto Ridge grapplers they measure out at 34.61 inches. zero fitment issues or rubbing on stock at4 I have 32,000 miles on my set and they still have over 50% tread left.

Yup local guy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Powder coating starting to fail after 21,000 miles Could have been a bad PC job too... who knows Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got one in hand Install starts today Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's my build... starts June 1st! Front doors -C7-100ct -C7-350cm -C7-650cw -Audiocontrol 6.1200 DSP Rears -C5-650x -Audiocontroll 4.300 everything else -JL StealthBox 2 12TWB -XD600/1v2 -large amounts of door soundproofing -AmpPRO4 GM Interface1 -AmpPRO4 Fiber Optic Output -Audiocontrol ac-bt24 Bluetooth adap -JL Bass knob

truck rides better with a sled in the back, its great. i like this ramp, the big padded clamps dont dig into the tailgate and scratch it like several others i tried. built in safety strap with clamp is nice too Caliber-CBR-13526-PRO

I’ve loaded up my quad many many times as well as snowmobiles. You don’t want to go cheap on this... i first used a couple $150-250 Ramps and both fukin failed almost killing myself.. My sportsman 850 is 785 pounds DRY.... Add all the fluids (100 pounds easily with a full tank of gas) and my fat ass and you really have serious weight. I ended up with the “Caliber Pro 2” It’s 90 by 52 and rock solid. Their clamp system that secures the ramp to the truck is heavy duty and very high quality, the hooks that rest on the lip of the tailgate are very thick and strong. I wouldn’t mess around, not worth it with how high the truck is. It’s a very dangerous situation when one ramp fails. You don’t want to experience this. The last pic you can see the first pair of shiit Ramps I got that gave out on the second use, almost flipped the quad Over on top of me... lesson learned Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Damn sorry I’m sure they will come out soon Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There’s 50 on eBay Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My search for the best Mother effin Hitch so we can avoid Tailgate damage https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=33003&share_tid=226114&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Egm-trucks%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Findex%2Ephp%3F%2Ftopic%2F226114-My-search-for-the-best-Mother-effin-Hitch-so-we-can-avoid-Tailgate-damage&share_type=t&link_source=app Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The new gmc hitch only comes with 2.5 inch shank.. 2 inch is in development for spring/summer. You need to measure your trailer to determine the drop.... Step 1: Measure from the ground to the top of the hitch. Step 2: Level trailer, then measure from the ground to the top of the trailer coupler. Step 3: Subtract the height of the hitch ball (most are 2-1/2" to 3" high) from Step 2. The example would be 18" minus 3" = 15". Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your already running the engine in extreme conditions... now your just adding more stress to your truck. First, With high octane fuel, engine designers are able to implement various techniques to improve reliability, efficiency, and power output. First, it helps prevent knock. Engine knock, or pinging, occurs when a separate pocket of air-fuel mixture ignites after the spark has ignited the air-fuel mixture within the combustion chamber. This is obviously undesirable as it can cause serious engine damage, and it can be prevented by using the proper octane rated fuel. Second, higher octane allows for the use of higher compression ratios. Compression ratio is directly linked with thermal efficiency, so the higher the compression ratio, the more efficient the engine will be (law of diminishing returns certainly applies). Third, high octane fuels allow for advanced ignition timing. What this means is the spark is fired well before the piston reaches top dead centre on the compression stroke. The reason this is done is because it takes time for the flame front to expand out and combust the air fuel mixture. If you start this process in advance of the piston reaching top dead center, you can increase the maximum pressure the cylinder will have once the air-fuel mixture is fully compressed (and traveling downward), and this will result in increased power. Obviously you do not want to detonate too early, as you’ll be applying pressure in the wrong direction, but if you ignite too late, you’re losing valuable torque. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I run non-eth 93... don’t care about the cost. If your getting the big engine why leave performance on the table? Honestly... if you want more performance, throw the shifter all the way down then manually gearing up to D9. its fukin epic. The cylinder deactivation ruins the V8.... this drops it... it’s night and day difference. More power, all the time, no hesitation, sounds better, shifts better Swapping my ecu soon so I don’t have to manually do it every time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk