Major Tom

I'll second adding a Reese Goose Box to you trailer and ditch the fifth wheel hitch. With the factory ball mount about two inches behind the rear axle, and the extended reach of the Goose Box, you will end up with more cab to trailer clearance backing up with a sharp turn. You can still run the trailer into the cab, but it helps.

Anyone using a hidden winch mount on their truck? Looking for some feedback on what you are using and how well it is working. Thanks

I was having nearly the same problem with a new fifth wheel. Works great with my bumper bull flat bed trailer, all LED lights. About half the times I plugged in the fifth wheel, all LED lights, I would get the trailer not connected message. I just had to push the trailer plug in a bit further! You may also try cleaning the connections. Bed and bumper connections are in there factory postitions. Hope this helps.

The link was just an example I found with a quick search looking for “GMC” and “tire pressure sensor”. If you have a a part number you need, just search for that part number. There is a very good chance you will find it. The price is better than the GMC dealers, that’s the point I was trying to make.

Check Ebay. Many get the sensors when they buy a SUV/Truck off the dealers lot and don't need them. I picked up four for $75. One current item below: 4 OEM Tire Pressure Sensor TPMS for GMC Sierra 1500 2500 3500 HD Yukon XL 433MHz | eBay Hope this helps.

The tank was installed by a dealer that sells Titan products. They do diesel repairs and upgrades. I didn't know this until I visited their shop. I took it as a good sign that they were very busy; it took them three days to work my job into their schedule. No problems with the tank other than the blow back on fill-up. Just slow the pump as you approach full. Listen and you can hear a chance the fuel and air flow sound as the tank gets near full. I did not have the blowback problem with the original equipment tank.

On thing I failed to note in earlier post is the first fill-up warning. Air gets trapped when the tank is nearly full, pause the pump for a few seconds before topping off or you will get some fuel blow back!

The good is the extra 55% on-board. With the cost of fuel going up, and the limits on credit card purchase at the local pump, that could be the ugly. The bad for off road is, the lack of a tank skid plate and a metal shield between the driveline and the tank that the original equipment has. All that being said, I’ll keep the Titan tank. Can anyone use an original tank and straps? Make me an offer.

The light bak comes with a weatherproof plug with about a nine inch pigtail. The hole in the plastic third brake light housing is sealed wit a tight fitting rubber groment with a little silicon sealer for good measure. I live in Phoenix Arizona area. We have only had a total of about two inches of rain in since I mounted the light bar, no leaks yet.

Only driven a couple of half tanks full so far, no problems. I'm sure the miles to empty is off, it has not changed since going to the bigger tank. A full tank shows about 700 miles to empty. In 15K miles I have been averaging 18.9 MPG. With a 36 gallon tank that's 680.4 miles. With the larger tank it should be 1,058.4 miles. The trucks computer is not aware of the extra fuel in the tank. If you add about 50% to the trucks estimate, you will be closer to the truth.

This is the low rack with the light bar mounted in the lowest hole on the mounting brackets. There is no interferance with the rear camera view, or the in-bed camera view.

I was finally able to get the truck out for a road trip with the new Titan tank. After a fill-up I put 400 miles on the truck. Usually takes 60-90 miles on the highway for the fuel gauge to come off the full mark. The new tank went to 175 miles before falling below full, 40 of those miles were in town. After the 400 mile trip the fuel gauge was at 11/16 of a tank. The truck did a software update today, but I had to unplug the iDash from the OBD port before it would install successfully. This is the first software update I have noticed the truck doing since I brought it home last February. It has been to the dealership for a free oil change and tire rotation once. They may have done an update then. Photos show old and new tank installed from the driver's side, and a couple of the tank just after it came out of the box.

I received the replacement tank earlier this week. The box Titan ships the tank in is about 15 inches too long. Box was beat up pretty bad, gouges in the cardboard where the tank straps poked through and ripped the cardboard as the tank and straps slid back and forth inside the box. The tank is plastic and was in surprisingly good condition. I tried to do the replacement in the driveway, but I do not have the tools to disconnect the “quick connect” fuel line fittings. I got the old tank down, but was unable to disconnect the supply and return lines. Clearances under the truck would have made it hard to get the new tank in place under the truck, it hangs down about two inched lower, and the top sticks up higher. Going to a diesel repair shop next week to have the tank installed, I will let you know how it goes. The tank uses the original fuel pickup and level sender, so I expect the fuel level gauge to work as the original, just take longer to fall off the FULL mark. I have an iDash to backup that reading. I do expect the ‘Range’ calculation to be off in the low direction. After all, this tank is roughly 55% larger than the original equipment, so I expect the actual ‘Range’ to be half again further than reported. I think that is a good thing!

Covid cabin fever got me, or I just got bored. Ordered the tank from Amazon, I’ll post some pictures when it arrives and I’ll try to install myself in the driveway.

Anyone looked into or better yet installed the new Titan replacement fuel tank? 2020 GMC 2500 & 3500 Crew Cab, Short Bed (7010220) (titanfueltanks.com)

iDash says my 3500 AT4 is at 184-187, takes about ten minutes to get there. I live in Phoenix area and have not towed any significant loads yet. The digital image of an analog gauge on the drivers display, could be read as 210 degrees.

Take a look here:

Take a look at the rear view camera, any water spots or dirt on the camera lenses? Check the camera view on the rearview mirror, is it dim too? Next turn the truck around 180 compass degrees in the same spot. The sun, a reflection of the sun or another light source may be giving the cameras problems.

The green wire with blue stripe is the +12 volt connection and the black wire does go to ground. Take a look at the link in the second post of this thread for a link to Upfitter bulletin # 157, page four and five have references to the switch connector.

Truck will still make it into the garage, but just. Garage is 23 feet to the step up and 82.5 inches from floor to bottom edge of the weather strip. The light bar deflects the weather strip ion the way in an out. Headache Rack and 52” light bar are from Magnum.

Boredom overcame the fear of drilling a hole to find the beacon, or fifth Upfitter switch, wirers. I used a 5/8 drill, the largest I have, and the smallest I would recommend. I started with a 3/8, then stepped up to a 1/2, and finally the 5/8. I was hoping to avoid chipping the paint, didn’t work, a small hole saw would have done a better job. A 1/4 ID / 5/8 OD grommet hides some of the paint chips, but not all. The two wires, hot and ground are wrapped in BLACK cloth tape making them very hard to find in the BLACK hole. The pliers just slipped on the cloth tape, the brake spring hook worked much better. I included a link to the Upfitter bulletin and a few photos. Switch number five now powers a 52 inch light bar. https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/1329/UI Bulletin_157.pdf

I need help connecting to the Fifth, the # 5, Upfitter power wire in the Center High Mount Stop Lamp (CHMSL). I would like to power a headache rack mounted light bar from that switch. I have looked at the Upfitter Bulletin #157, but it does not give me enough information to identify the location to drill in the CHMSL. Has anyone in the forum done this and can add some advice, or pictures? Image below is from the bulletin. Insert other media.url

The 1/4 " ratchet was using what I would call a standard length socket, not a deep well socket. Still a pain to make work. I had problems getting the hood release cable reinstalled. I pull the end of the cable out of the lever and could not get it back in. The lever is an assembly that just clips onto the knee bolster. After I figured out how to release the lever assembly, I connected the cable to the assembly and clipped it back onto the knee bolster. Two documents that will help you, from the GM Upfitter website: Technical Bulletin # 153 Installation of Upfitter (AUX) Switches (9L7) components Preliminary https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/1314/UI%20Bulletin%20153_wip.pdf Instrument Panel Knee Bolster Replacement: https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/1265/Instrument%20Panel%20Knee%20Bolster%20Replacement.pdf

Make that three. I also ordered a 3500 AT with Upfitter switches. Did the install yesterday. The photos and instructions in this thread helped a lot. I did not take the knee bolster as far off as you did. I only pulled the first screw and clip closest to the door. I used a 1/4 inch ratchet to install the two screws mounting the fuse/relay box. This was the most time consuming part of the job. The ratchet is old and needs replacing. Just another opinion on the extra fuse for the snow plow power. If you look under the battery cover on the drivers side there is another fuse installed, just like the passenger side battery. They are both under clipped on plastic covers and should not present a “short” hazard. Thanks for starting the thread, the pictures and comments.

Not an expert, but this might be the truck's security system just checking to make sure the trailer is still connecter to your truck. The current flashed to the trailer wiring harness may be enough to get the LED trailer lights to flash, but not enough to light up older incandescent bulbs. Just my guess.