I need to replace the two plastic hose quick disconnects at the heater core, before they break and leave me stranded. Could someone confirm if GM# 15151875 is the correct p/n? Do both sides use the same part or is there another part number I'm missing? One is black, the other is white. Inlet and outlet I'm guessing?
The "Professional" is under warranty, but I opted to purchase an "OEM" version on my dime. I don't intend to repeat this replacement process again. No, I didn't hammer the fan on. Hand tight. New ACD fan clutch. After getting the fan and shroud off yesterday the leak seems to be coming from water pump snout, behind the pulley. I'm I know more when I pull it off. Three variations of the same part makes absolutely no sense to me at all. I just had to buy a single replacement water pump mounting bolt from the dealer because one of them had corroded away (due to the gasket failure). It was $5.30! Unbelievable. This part stuff is out of control.
Well, according to the local dealer ACD parts sold as "OEM" are made in Canada and those sold as "Professional" are made in China. I didn't know that. That's why OEM parts are priced substantially higher, which someone previously mentioned. My original 15 year old water pump had gasket failure. The pump itself was still functional. Rock Auto wouldn't let me upgrade or get credit, so I now have a $90 turd. I guess I could exchange it and sell it on ebay.
All parts were made in China. New ACD fan clutch at time of the first installation. Using new Prestone Dex-Cool with each replacement. I don't know of anything I'm doing to create a seal leak 6+ months later after installation. I'm going to see if Rock Auto will let me change over to Gates this time.
Soliciting input on replacing the upper windshield rubber seal. LMC Truck has a replacement for $20. Just wondering if anyone has used it and if the quality is any good? The OEM version is $70. My truck is too old to spend that much on a replacement. If anyone has other suggestions, please let me know. Thanks
I had a similar intermittent noise problem for 8+ years. I attributed the noise to piston slap. Turned out to be a broken exhaust manifold bolt. Check to see if you have any broken bolts. Driver's side rear is the most common.
Jet-X posted a topic in 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500Getting ready to purchase new plugs (double platinum, ACD 41-962). I noticed a number of deals on ebay that seem to be to good to be true. A set of 8 plugs for around $24-30. I recall years ago GM issued a bulletin to be aware of fake ACD parts, specifically spark plugs. Is there a way to physically tell the difference between a genuine and a fake? I though it had to do with either the metal color or the stamped markings. I can't remember. Can anyone recommend a known good source to purchase from? Thanks
Before you replace the lower bearing, try the clamp method. My steering column knocked for more than 10 years. Replaced 3 intermediate shafts and no change. After wasting hours replacing the column bearing to the green one the problem persisted. Found an article on this site that people were using a 2" hose clamp or muffler clamp installed around the column, just above the bearing. Noise was gone. All for $1.30 and 5 minutes time.
I'm replacing my water pump this weekend. This video was really helpful. I have a fan clutch and replacing that as well. https://www.1aauto.com/how-to-install-replace-water-pump-2000-03-v8-5.3l-chevy-suburban-1500-lm7-ls/video/11657
Thanks everyone for the inputs. The pump arrived and I didn't care for the quality of those stock metal gaskets. I picked up the AC Delco parts as you suggested carnau. I agree, the prep is the key for a long lasting seal. The instructions specify no sealant. I'm used to adding a skim coat to most gaskets just for piece of mind, but this time I'll install them dry and see how it goes.
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