Jet-X

That's a nice idea. How did you determine the location and where to cut?

If broken exhaust manifold bolts are your problem, there are retrofit kits out there to remedy it. This is the one I used. It's for the drivers side, rear. I think Dorman makes one, as well. https://kralautoparts.com/product/exhaust-manifold-bolt-repair-kit-kap169

I need to replace the two plastic hose quick disconnects at the heater core, before they break and leave me stranded. Could someone confirm if GM# 15151875 is the correct p/n? Do both sides use the same part or is there another part number I'm missing? One is black, the other is white. Inlet and outlet I'm guessing?

The "Professional" is under warranty, but I opted to purchase an "OEM" version on my dime. I don't intend to repeat this replacement process again. No, I didn't hammer the fan on. Hand tight. New ACD fan clutch. After getting the fan and shroud off yesterday the leak seems to be coming from water pump snout, behind the pulley. I'm I know more when I pull it off. Three variations of the same part makes absolutely no sense to me at all. I just had to buy a single replacement water pump mounting bolt from the dealer because one of them had corroded away (due to the gasket failure). It was $5.30! Unbelievable. This part stuff is out of control.

Well, according to the local dealer ACD parts sold as "OEM" are made in Canada and those sold as "Professional" are made in China. I didn't know that. That's why OEM parts are priced substantially higher, which someone previously mentioned. My original 15 year old water pump had gasket failure. The pump itself was still functional. Rock Auto wouldn't let me upgrade or get credit, so I now have a $90 turd. I guess I could exchange it and sell it on ebay.

Aside from the $42 cost differential, what's the physical difference between ACD OEM vs. ACD Professional? I'm using the professional version if that even matters.

All parts were made in China. New ACD fan clutch at time of the first installation. Using new Prestone Dex-Cool with each replacement. I don't know of anything I'm doing to create a seal leak 6+ months later after installation. I'm going to see if Rock Auto will let me change over to Gates this time.

Third water pump failure in 1.5 yrs. Leaking at the weep hole. Thank goodness for the 2 yr. warranty. All procured from Rock Auto. I can almost change it in my sleep.

Soliciting input on replacing the upper windshield rubber seal. LMC Truck has a replacement for $20. Just wondering if anyone has used it and if the quality is any good? The OEM version is $70. My truck is too old to spend that much on a replacement. If anyone has other suggestions, please let me know. Thanks

I had a similar intermittent noise problem for 8+ years. I attributed the noise to piston slap. Turned out to be a broken exhaust manifold bolt. Check to see if you have any broken bolts. Driver's side rear is the most common.

Getting ready to purchase new plugs (double platinum, ACD 41-962). I noticed a number of deals on ebay that seem to be to good to be true. A set of 8 plugs for around $24-30. I recall years ago GM issued a bulletin to be aware of fake ACD parts, specifically spark plugs. Is there a way to physically tell the difference between a genuine and a fake? I though it had to do with either the metal color or the stamped markings. I can't remember. Can anyone recommend a known good source to purchase from? Thanks

Thanks for the input guy's. I had know idea they would last that long.

Closing in on 90K miles and wondering if I should be pro-active and replace these parts before they fail? I recall in the past, most people would change them out at ~80K miles.

Here's the link to one of many articles on the subject. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76-speciality-forums/80-suspension-steering-2001-2010/316107-steering-clunk-fix-priceless.html

Before you replace the lower bearing, try the clamp method. My steering column knocked for more than 10 years. Replaced 3 intermediate shafts and no change. After wasting hours replacing the column bearing to the green one the problem persisted. Found an article on this site that people were using a 2" hose clamp or muffler clamp installed around the column, just above the bearing. Noise was gone. All for $1.30 and 5 minutes time.