BlaineBug

If you have a key I don't believe it matters, the auto stop feature will still shut it down. If you notice your key is more of a button than anything. You don't have to hold the key in the start position until it starts, if you just blip it, the starter stays running until it's started anyway.

I feel as though their cost has outpaced inflation, yet quality and longevity have decreased (with the exception of increasingly flashy first glance appearances.)

Do you pay for the Onstar hotspot or do you play through your phone via android auto/apple carplay?

I pay 6.48 a months all in with taxes and fees. When the year promotion is up and I get billed for $29.99 I call to cancel and then get offered the promotion again. Same goes for my home internet.

Got to love that, that's similar to what the G218 ground issue was pinching insulation between grounding plane and the wire eyelet. If QC missed things like this during the good years I can't imagine how bad QC is today.

Next time try turning A/C off manually. I normally press "auto" then "sync" then press the A/C button, so that the A/C light as well as the "auto" light turn off. If you want to test that it is in fact the A/C evaporator that is contributing to your moisture issue.

Have you ever seen where the water is flowing? Water dripping down the windshield or on the top of the dashboard by chance?

I wouldn't bother with that nonsense. How often are you opening the hood. Find a good strut and be done with it. You're probably one of the lone sufferers of a strut that is too stiff. The rest have weak struts.

The part number he provided came up as an OEM General Motors hood strut. Didn't list years but in 2015 they ditched them anyway and use the spring hinges. Also coincidentally that is also when they started using aluminum hoods. For the SUV platform at least. Truck platform was starting with model year 2014.

I had a very lengthy response typed out yesterday in response to this but I am seeing that it apparently never posted. Most all of the time I have seen hood and trunk struts installed, the black tube portion is positioned on top of the chrome rod. This may seem like it is upside down but from what I have read, this ensures that the oil within the black cylinder is always in contact with the sealing surface of the strut to make sure that the rubber stays lubricated at all times. As for suspension shocks on cars it seems like it can vary if the cylinder portion is on the top or the bottom of the chrome rod. If you can install the replacement struts with the black cylinder on top that's the way I would do it. Also make sure to clean the chrome shaft often. Debris or even dust on the chrome shaft will act as abrasive on the rubber sealing surface of the hydraulic cylinder.

Part number 15855373 comes back as a genuine GM hood strut. https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/gm-strut-15855373.html Here's a small tip, take a little bit of oil or lubricant and put a drop or two where the chrome rod meets the black rod, where it slides in. I'm not sure how it's oriented on your vehicle though. You can also take a rag and wipe some oil on the chrome struts for your hood and tailgate as well. Keeps them clean. Debris on the chrome shaft is the real killer of those strut seals!

Not a bad idea. I used to be a big junkyard visitor when I was younger. You know how women go to crafts stores, me and my friends would go to the junkyards......just to browse. Lots of modding back in the day with our vehicles as well. One of the more memorable was using a throttle body from a Ford Econoline Van and installing it on our Crown Victoria 4.6. The diameter of the throttle body was bigger, but for a minute fraction of the cost of the aftermarket "performance" throttle bodies. Heh! Also installed dual exhaust and rear end gear sets from Police Cars on our non-Police Crown Victorias. Lots of money spent but really a fraction of the cost of what some people spend when they build their cars.

No problem. Or you can always replace the strut and see what happens, if it doesn't help then return it......whatever you want to do! Normally they aren't more than $10-$20. I haven't checked prices lately.

Interesting. Maybe in his configuration he can turn on the audible beep rather than the seat detection? IF, and a big IF the seat motor is the issue, I wonder if the error would disappear if the seat motors were not set to be used for driver assist. Personally I leave mine off, I prefer the beep (but my passengers do not.)

Hood must be steel then. Does it stick to both sides? I can't imagine they'd have two different metals bonded together. Not that it matters. Maybe that strut is just bad as well or is designed for something much heavier. Maybe you can see if there are any markings or numbers on it for identification?

Try a magnet and see if it sticks.

Tailgate struts need replacement and maybe you have a tailgate strut incorrectly utilized for your hood. Tailgates weigh a lot more than the aluminum hood.

I see GM-Trucks email notifications suddenly began working today again so I got to see your deleted comment about how the engine oil is cooled by airflow passing through the radiator. While that is true the temperature of the radiator itself also cools or increases the temperature. Since I believe the engine oil would be much warmer than ~210 degrees I'd have to say that the coolant (and airflow of course) are cooling the engine oil together. Subsequently some of that heat is also making its way from the engine oil to the engine coolant too.

What was it?

Makes sense, I possibly recall this mentioned here before. So the engine oil cooler is in the radiator? I would assume engine oil would be much hotter than ~210 degree operating temperature of coolant so that makes sense, "cooling" it to somewhere around ~210 degrees from something that would normally be much higher.

Maybe it's a difference between Chevrolet/GMC?

6 speed.

Strange. What I typed myself is straight from the build sheet.

PS, is your KNP really labeled "heavy duty auxiliary transmission cooler?" That is not what my build sheet says.

I believe 1 and 3 go to the condenser and 2 and 4 go to the radiator in my pictures.