my son's print went really well for the unit he designed for me (bucket set model) , had to be a two piece due to print bed restrictions and it fit prefectt until it got really hot outside.... PLA shrinks when it gets too hot. he reprinted with ABS and no more issues.
I'm new to the Automotive Diesel world and have been swamped at work so I just took mine in for an oil change, decided I might as well get the fuel filter done since it was sitting at 32%. I don't want to pay that much again for a filter change! is there a certain procedure for changing the fuel filter so I can do it at home? what are the steps to purge the air and pressurise the system? I've done it many times long ago on marine diesels while I was in the Navy, but they were Dinosaurs (kina like me now).
I have to agree with Rotolo, I looked all around ventura county and dealers here either couldn't or wouldn't help me. Paradise Chevrolet even said the truck I wanted them to bring in from Rotolo was already sold, I called Rotolo from the chair in front of the Paradise salesman's desk, they said he never got a call.... I made sure the Paradise guy heard me tell the Rotolo guy to prep the truck for me and set an appointment for the next day. well worth the drive. I told Rotolo I knew what the best they could do on price was and that's what i got. no fight.
I've got over 15k on mine and still get the same smell when she gets warmed up. I wouldn't worry about it unless you end up with a puddle. my fluid levels have always been spot on. so I know I'm not losing anything. i was told by many with more diesel experience than i that it's the Def making the smell, remember ours happens under the hood instead of further down the pipe.
I drove it to work and the next time I started up it worked. Similar topic, yesterday the backup camera didn't turn off when it was supposed to. I had to cycle through the menus to fix it.
Before changing the tires ask them to try a set of tires and wheels from another truck, that will tell you right away if that is your problem or if it's an unbalanced driveshaft.
I did something similar with my old Dakota R/T. a cold air setup would have cost $400+ at the time so i set up a hunk of Dryer duct from the factory air box to the grill. ended up doing a number of dyno pulls with it and the expensive setups borrowed from buddies, my $12.00 mod that never even got a second look from the California smog Nazis actually bettered the best of them by 2HP .
I got the check engine light and the same codes on Saturday, it was off by Monday when I drove the truck to work. Had an appointment at the dealer for this afternoon but decided to cancel after reading this thread (will also be changing dealer due to customer service issues). I don't have any of the battery drainage issues and the gauges are all good, so Ill try the brake trick and see if the light stays off and wait until there is a fix for the actual issue. I'm in the 3.0 so this obviously isn't a power train specific issue.
if it were and older truck id say have the shop check the voltage regulator, if it's faulty it might be giving enough power to run but not run and charge. I havn't even found my alternator yet on this truck
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