jrabenaldt

I was on the same fence this time last year and went back with the Magneride fronts because I found some under a rock for a very good price. Only difference is that I have the Fabtech 6". Everything I have read on multiple sites indicates that this should work w/o issue; difficult part would be choosing what to replace them with.

It certainly happens to old as well as new. My '16 6.2 spit one with 57K on it and my neighbors '21 just did it in August with 8K on it. I'm starting to think there's more to the lighter oil weight at least contributing to the occurrences.

I also have a 2016 but it's lifted and running 35's but... I replaced my front shocks myself last January because both failed and were locked extended. I found replacement shocks for closer to $650 for the pair. Truck drives like it should now. I have noticed that the rear rides much better with 100-200 lbs in the bed and I'd rather have a more firm ride rather then a squishy rolling ride. My rear shocks are still original (knock on wood now). There are several videos showing how to do it and the connector is a PIA to change if you change the pins in the connector like most show. I ended up cutting original shock wires and soldering that original connector pig tail to the new wires. Is it worth it? That's really up to you. I didn't want to give that up quite yet but if they don't last I may quickly change my mind.

I haven't seen much about replacing a front CV Axle on these trucks but completed this over the weekend on my 2016 Sierra Denali. My truck has the Magneride and a 6" Fabtech lift and it's lived in Tx all it's life so there is 0 rust. This is really straight forward with a couple of changes to the general procedure videos that are available online. The 36mm axle nut is the biggest hurdle but an impact wrench worked wonders. Once that is loose and the 6 15mm bolts on the diff are removed it should slide out... Not so fast. Most of the videos I saw had the strut removed and I wasn't doing that. I removed the swaybar endlink and the rear side lower strut bolt and threaded clip for that bolt and was able to then slide the CV axle towards the diff, pivot it 90 degrees then forward out the front of the suspension under the bumper. The hub side joint will slide between the LCA and the swaybar when it's close to the diff. Installation is the reverse but the only way to get it in is the same way it came out. Once the axle side is in and through the hub add the washer and nut to only hold in place. Install the 6 15mm bolts to the flange for the diff side and tighten. Reinstall the strut bolt that was removed and the sway bar end link. I then put the wheel on, lowered, then tightened the axle nut. Now I have to replace 2 lug bolts after screwing the threads trying to remove the axle nut w/o the impact wrench but that's another day... all 6 nuts are installed but 2 are difficult to turn.

I know that my fronts were replace at 56K last January on my '16 because I did them. The rears are original best I can tell and currently at 60300 mi.

I hate to say it but that's exactly what mine did. Fuel injectors, lifters, VLOM and new pushrod later it runs perfectly...

Exactly!!!

It'd be nice to fit a 35 under there even if it's completely worn out.

The past 4 vehicles I've owned I purthased the warranty. 2 of them I did not use any part of it and was refunded the unused portion when they were traded. The other 2 have more than paid for themselves. 1 was on a Wrangler and the other is on my current '16 Sierra Denali. On the Denali is has paid for the lifter/fuel injector/VLOM/pushrod repair but would not cover the wonderful Magneride shocks. I'm mostly just concerned about the powertrain on these things that I know is over my head to repair. I need to find me a '78 Blazer that I can work on myself.

OMG!!! I just went through the exact same thing starting 3 weeks ago. Dealership eventually replaced all right side lifters and injectors, VLOM, 1 pushrod (not all 8), various gaskets, oil, etc. Dealership had it 2 weeks. During the first test drive after initially replacing 2 injectors and a lifter the pushrod broke. My symptoms were exactly the same except that I hadn't heard the ticking noise for very long at all. 2016, Denali, 6.2 with 56,1xx miles... and thank goodness for the extended warranty.

My son has beat the daylights out of his and they have performed excellent everywhere, however we're in Texas and we haven't had snow in a long time so we can't provide feedback on that.

I have them on my son's Jeep also. For 1/2 the price of all the other 35's if they last 1/2 as long I'm not out any more money. They are definitely quieter than any other M/T tire that I have been around. If I had to guess put the life on his at about 22-24K mi. and granted, he's certainly not easy on tires.

How well are your devices charging? I installed the charging pad into my '16 Denali and it seems to trickle at best. If not using the phone (iphone 8 plus) it will very slowly add charge to the battery but if its being used for maps the charge drops but not as quickly as if not connected. If I run Waze, that's a joke; the charge doesn't even begin to keep up. Am I just expecting too much?

The seat coolers in my '12 Avalanche were amazing especially in Texas, the '16... not so much. I can feel it if I sit in a certain position but that doesn't last long.

When I purchased my '16 in February I had the same issue at 46k miles. The dealership replaced the battery cables and no light since. I thought it was BS at the time but hard to argue with now.