A little over 300 miles on it when I did it. It shouldn't be difficult to empty. Like I said, I did bend the bracket slightly to give more clearance to the oil fill cap. Didn't like it being that close for no reason. I did a test removal to ensure it would be efficient enough to remove. And it is.
Fart fans in the seats are barely ok IMO. Yeah, they're nice to have, but I never think about them. Only when the wife is with me and turns her side on. I guess she's used to it driving in her Caddy. I don't care one way or another, but the fans in the Cadillac are stronger than the ones in the truck. As far as the A/C goes, on a super hot day sitting in a restaurant parking lot, it's very wise to remote start the truck near the end of the meal to get the A/C cooling on. For whatever reason, at first start in high heat, it takes a longer amount of time for the 410A coolant (I think they're using that) to get cold than any other vehicle I've ever owned. Could be a lot of real estate in the ducting to have to cool down, I don't know. But lordy when it gets there it's a meat locker.
Finally got around to installing the E2000 can on the truck. Pretty straightforward. Looks nice overall, but a couple things that wasn't pleasing was that somehow the clamp didn't hold the can tight. And the clamp bolt was very tight. Hit a bump and the can would slide down. I removed the can then wrapped a single piece of electrical tape around the can top and then mounted the can into the clamp. Problem solved. I could have bent the clamp a tad to get it out of round a bit to reduce clearance, but didn't want to risk screwing it up too badly. I posted in another thread mistakenly in the 2014-2019 Sierra section about the E2000 catch can. So I brought it over here where it should be. There was just a minimal amount of oil in the intake and PCV tube. I cleaned that up best I could, but we'll see how it holds out. The other thing was how close it was to the oil fill cap. So I bent the "L" bracket slightly to give the can more clearance around that fill cap. Again, problem solved. The factory style clips and AN fittings made it super simple to connect. I still need to re-orient the can a little better about 180 degrees and get the hoses a bit neater. I was just trying to get it not to fall at this point, and when I took the picture I realized I can do a bit better with the aesthetics part of this. I put my PCV "return to stock in about 5 minutes" kit in a bag, then put that in the storage bin under the back seat. It consists of the original PCV pipe, 7 mm socket (for the air cleaner clamps), 10 mm socket, 7/16" socket and 7/16" wrench, and a small ratchet handle with an extension. For those that installed a catch can on their 6.2 and can't recall where they put the original PCV tube, in case you need one, you can buy a new one from GM for around 10 bucks. P/N 12665065.
Finally got around to installing the E2000 can on the truck. Pretty straightforward. Looks nice overall, but a couple things that wasn't pleasing was that somehow the clamp didn't hold the can tight. And the clamp bolt was very tight. Hit a bump and the can would slide down. I removed the can then wrapped a single piece of electrical tape around the can top and then mounted the can into the clamp. Problem solved. I could have bent the clamp a tad to get it out of round a bit to reduce clearance, but didn't want to risk screwing it up too badly. There was just a minimal amount of oil in the intake and PCV tube. I cleaned that up best I could, but we'll see how it holds out. The other thing was how close it was to the oil fill cap. So I bent the "L" bracket slightly to give the can more clearance around that fill cap. Again, problem solved. The factory style clips and AN fittings made it super simple to connect. I still need to re-orient the can a little better about 180 degrees and get the hoses a bit neater. I was just trying to get it not to fall at this point, and when I took the picture I realized I can do a bit better with the aesthetics part of this. I put my PCV "return to stock in about 5 minutes" kit in a bag, then put that in the storage bin under the back seat. It consists of the original PCV pipe, 7 mm socket (for the air cleaner clamps), 10 mm socket, 7/16" socket and 7/16" wrench, and a small ratchet handle with an extension.
Thanks for the props, but I wasn't looking for an awesome look, but I get what you mean. I wanted more like the "meh, I don't see what you're talking about" look. I wanted the last resort protection from rando door swings, but I also wanted something that appeared to be something GM may do had they decided to protect that area of the doors with some trim. And I also wanted some GM parts to ensure they would stay stuck. Don't think that's going to be a problem here. About 50 feet across a parking lot at certain angles, they seem to just disappear into the door. Truck's got too much chrome on it to add any more to it.
BTW, if you ordered parts through your local dealership parts counter, shipping is free as well. Accessory part or even a part that's not an accessory. Need spark plugs? Order them up, no shipping charges. No matter how much the parts cost. $5 or $5000. Free shipping when you order GM parts through the dealership. If they do charge you for shipping from the GMPSO warehouse to the dealership, their boning you. I know it sounds crazy because they charge shipping for the dang truck they sold you. But not the parts. It pays to have a relationship with the dealership guys, especially the service and parts managers.
If you know the part numbers, check with your local dealer. Sometimes they can order up stuff for a better discount than 20%. On a LOT of things. My dealer gives me a 25% below MSRP discount on anything I buy there. Also, check the part numbers at some of the other dealer websites for ordering parts. I bought painted wheel well moldings from ShopChevyparts.com, normally 650, for somewhere around 485 SHIPPED! Even if you had the 20% coupon for it, you'd pay 520 PLUS more for shipping. So it pays to check around. Unless you just want to pay more for the same part number.
And FYI: I checked out the part number for this and the above number according to the parts catalog is for fitting 2018 and is also listed under part ACDelco GT376. The parts catalog calls out ACDelco GT377 or GM p/n 84214460 says it's for T1, 2019/20 (and probably going to be the same for 21). The 352 MAY fit 19/20? I don't know. The lock appears to be in a different clock position. That's the only difference I see, really. I just did a dealer VIN check for my 2020 GMC, and they said I should get GM p/n 23389451. I dunno what the deal is. I checked out the part numbers and it appears the 451 number is simply a supersession of the 460 number. Still shows a GT377 based on the information I dug up. It appears to be a locking PLASTIC cap. Not appearing to be super solid. So yeah, it's going to be only as good as a honest vandal/thief deterrent. Anyone who really wants to dump dirt in your tank...will.
Excellent info to know. Especially will come in handy if you can find a Multi-pro in your color! I would IMAGINE (no proof) that the upper center solenoid is simply piggybacked off the harness for the main gate solenoid so plugging up the power from the truck pigtail will be a one and done. Also, does the power lift on Silverado allow the multi-pro to work? Or is power lift an option? Like I said, I'm not very familiar with Silverado. The secondary gate on the multi has only the push button on the back of the tailgate only. No remote. I'm also guessing the main gate latch points are the same between Sierra and Silverado? If it fits, it ships!!!!
Thank you for that. This one doesn't have a drain valve- yet. Like I said, I'm going to make that call once I get it installed and see how it pans out as far as accessibility whether it's easier to pull it or if it's worthwhile to drill/tap and install a drain valve. Going to also get a handle on the O-ring size if I end up pulling it all the time because at $10 each, their O-rings can't be all that special. They should be certified by the FDA or something at that price.
If my truck was painted orange, the finish would be perfect! It looks good, and I could risk fugging it up by correcting it, but it's shiny enough for me, so I won't. Haven't noticed any paint defects yet, but I'm not going to look too close.
I guess we shall see. I just found out I had about $400 laying around doing nothing in my paypal account, so I went ahead and spent $255 of it and bought the E2000. Looks like it only takes about 20 minutes tops to install, and most of that is getting the tools together and the intake junk out of the way. Got cans on my 2013 ZL1 and 2010 Camaro SS. Don't get much out of them, but at least peace of mind. Even if they arguably aren't required, they surely do not hurt to collect oil that shouldn't be in that tube in the first place.
Nice video. I know this thread's a few months old, but rather than start a new one... I think I'm going to try the E2000 can for my new truck. It's only got 350 miles on it now, but the sooner I get started on it, the better. The 6.2L PCV line is much shorter as it goes from under the throttle body just like the 5.3L but just runs to the top side of the throttle body instead of 1/2 way down the intake. And although technically they shouldn't cancel a warranty, I'm not going to take any chances. I'm going to keep the factory PCV hose and disconnect/remove that can if I ever have to take it in for service. I'm probably going to add a ball valve as a drain valve to the bottom of the can so I don't have to wear out the o-rings, too. We'll see how hard it is to reach once it's installed.
I was just mentioning it as a question. Where is the remote receiver? In the tail gate or the truck? Reason I ask is that if the receiver is in the tailgate, you'd have to swap your receiver from the Chevy tailgate to the GMC one. Otherwise, your fob won't allow you to open the gate at the push of the tailgate button. But if that were the case, your remote and dash button should work on it also. I'm not familiar with the wiring and sensor locations for the gates. If the release solenoid gets power from a separate source that needed to be wired in separately, then the locking feature would be lost as you couldn't remotely operate it and the fob would have no effect. Maybe my truck is different? I don't know. I do know that I cannot walk up to the doors or tailgate and get them open without the fob in my pocket or nearby. So if the receiver from the fob is in the truck to activate the tailgate, you should be golden. If it's inside the tailgate, you may need to change that out. I have no idea about Silverado tailgates and how they operate. I've never looked at them.
My first Multi-pro tailgate. 2020 Sierra. Yay! It opens ok, with or without the remote and folds down nicely and all that. It's obviously a heavy mofo because the first time I went to close it the gate is supposed to have the lift assist, right? Dang, it sure didn't feel like it. Maybe it does, but just being heavier than a regular gate has it feeling different. But every time I go to close it, it goes part way up and there's like a popping or clunking noise. It doesn't seem to deter it from closing at all, but it keeps making a noise every single time. There's nothing in the way that I can see, but maybe it's something I can't see. Is this a normal thing with the Multi-pro or is it abnormal? My old regular gate truck didn't make any noise and it had the lift assist too. I did a search here, but got no results. Just wondering.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 88 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,584 Guests (See full list)
- J A K
- Jeff Cooley
- Mark Francois
- Bradley Thompson
- Cool J
- Scott Shipley
- Mike Barber
- David Fuller
- Katie Lucas
- Alex Smith
- R Ruter
- kickass audio
- Larry Cooke