2020SierraDenali

A little over 300 miles on it when I did it. It shouldn't be difficult to empty. Like I said, I did bend the bracket slightly to give more clearance to the oil fill cap. Didn't like it being that close for no reason. I did a test removal to ensure it would be efficient enough to remove. And it is.

Fart fans in the seats are barely ok IMO. Yeah, they're nice to have, but I never think about them. Only when the wife is with me and turns her side on. I guess she's used to it driving in her Caddy. I don't care one way or another, but the fans in the Cadillac are stronger than the ones in the truck. As far as the A/C goes, on a super hot day sitting in a restaurant parking lot, it's very wise to remote start the truck near the end of the meal to get the A/C cooling on. For whatever reason, at first start in high heat, it takes a longer amount of time for the 410A coolant (I think they're using that) to get cold than any other vehicle I've ever owned. Could be a lot of real estate in the ducting to have to cool down, I don't know. But lordy when it gets there it's a meat locker.

Finally got around to installing the E2000 can on the truck. Pretty straightforward. Looks nice overall, but a couple things that wasn't pleasing was that somehow the clamp didn't hold the can tight. And the clamp bolt was very tight. Hit a bump and the can would slide down. I removed the can then wrapped a single piece of electrical tape around the can top and then mounted the can into the clamp. Problem solved. I could have bent the clamp a tad to get it out of round a bit to reduce clearance, but didn't want to risk screwing it up too badly. I posted in another thread mistakenly in the 2014-2019 Sierra section about the E2000 catch can. So I brought it over here where it should be. There was just a minimal amount of oil in the intake and PCV tube. I cleaned that up best I could, but we'll see how it holds out. The other thing was how close it was to the oil fill cap. So I bent the "L" bracket slightly to give the can more clearance around that fill cap. Again, problem solved. The factory style clips and AN fittings made it super simple to connect. I still need to re-orient the can a little better about 180 degrees and get the hoses a bit neater. I was just trying to get it not to fall at this point, and when I took the picture I realized I can do a bit better with the aesthetics part of this. I put my PCV "return to stock in about 5 minutes" kit in a bag, then put that in the storage bin under the back seat. It consists of the original PCV pipe, 7 mm socket (for the air cleaner clamps), 10 mm socket, 7/16" socket and 7/16" wrench, and a small ratchet handle with an extension. For those that installed a catch can on their 6.2 and can't recall where they put the original PCV tube, in case you need one, you can buy a new one from GM for around 10 bucks. P/N 12665065.

Finally got around to installing the E2000 can on the truck. Pretty straightforward. Looks nice overall, but a couple things that wasn't pleasing was that somehow the clamp didn't hold the can tight. And the clamp bolt was very tight. Hit a bump and the can would slide down. I removed the can then wrapped a single piece of electrical tape around the can top and then mounted the can into the clamp. Problem solved. I could have bent the clamp a tad to get it out of round a bit to reduce clearance, but didn't want to risk screwing it up too badly. There was just a minimal amount of oil in the intake and PCV tube. I cleaned that up best I could, but we'll see how it holds out. The other thing was how close it was to the oil fill cap. So I bent the "L" bracket slightly to give the can more clearance around that fill cap. Again, problem solved. The factory style clips and AN fittings made it super simple to connect. I still need to re-orient the can a little better about 180 degrees and get the hoses a bit neater. I was just trying to get it not to fall at this point, and when I took the picture I realized I can do a bit better with the aesthetics part of this. I put my PCV "return to stock in about 5 minutes" kit in a bag, then put that in the storage bin under the back seat. It consists of the original PCV pipe, 7 mm socket (for the air cleaner clamps), 10 mm socket, 7/16" socket and 7/16" wrench, and a small ratchet handle with an extension.

Thanks for the props, but I wasn't looking for an awesome look, but I get what you mean. I wanted more like the "meh, I don't see what you're talking about" look. I wanted the last resort protection from rando door swings, but I also wanted something that appeared to be something GM may do had they decided to protect that area of the doors with some trim. And I also wanted some GM parts to ensure they would stay stuck. Don't think that's going to be a problem here. About 50 feet across a parking lot at certain angles, they seem to just disappear into the door. Truck's got too much chrome on it to add any more to it.

BTW, if you ordered parts through your local dealership parts counter, shipping is free as well. Accessory part or even a part that's not an accessory. Need spark plugs? Order them up, no shipping charges. No matter how much the parts cost. $5 or $5000. Free shipping when you order GM parts through the dealership. If they do charge you for shipping from the GMPSO warehouse to the dealership, their boning you. I know it sounds crazy because they charge shipping for the dang truck they sold you. But not the parts. It pays to have a relationship with the dealership guys, especially the service and parts managers.

If you know the part numbers, check with your local dealer. Sometimes they can order up stuff for a better discount than 20%. On a LOT of things. My dealer gives me a 25% below MSRP discount on anything I buy there. Also, check the part numbers at some of the other dealer websites for ordering parts. I bought painted wheel well moldings from ShopChevyparts.com, normally 650, for somewhere around 485 SHIPPED! Even if you had the 20% coupon for it, you'd pay 520 PLUS more for shipping. So it pays to check around. Unless you just want to pay more for the same part number.

And FYI: I checked out the part number for this and the above number according to the parts catalog is for fitting 2018 and is also listed under part ACDelco GT376. The parts catalog calls out ACDelco GT377 or GM p/n 84214460 says it's for T1, 2019/20 (and probably going to be the same for 21). The 352 MAY fit 19/20? I don't know. The lock appears to be in a different clock position. That's the only difference I see, really. I just did a dealer VIN check for my 2020 GMC, and they said I should get GM p/n 23389451. I dunno what the deal is. I checked out the part numbers and it appears the 451 number is simply a supersession of the 460 number. Still shows a GT377 based on the information I dug up. It appears to be a locking PLASTIC cap. Not appearing to be super solid. So yeah, it's going to be only as good as a honest vandal/thief deterrent. Anyone who really wants to dump dirt in your tank...will.

Excellent info to know. Especially will come in handy if you can find a Multi-pro in your color! I would IMAGINE (no proof) that the upper center solenoid is simply piggybacked off the harness for the main gate solenoid so plugging up the power from the truck pigtail will be a one and done. Also, does the power lift on Silverado allow the multi-pro to work? Or is power lift an option? Like I said, I'm not very familiar with Silverado. The secondary gate on the multi has only the push button on the back of the tailgate only. No remote. I'm also guessing the main gate latch points are the same between Sierra and Silverado? If it fits, it ships!!!!

Thank you for that. This one doesn't have a drain valve- yet. Like I said, I'm going to make that call once I get it installed and see how it pans out as far as accessibility whether it's easier to pull it or if it's worthwhile to drill/tap and install a drain valve. Going to also get a handle on the O-ring size if I end up pulling it all the time because at $10 each, their O-rings can't be all that special. They should be certified by the FDA or something at that price.

If my truck was painted orange, the finish would be perfect! It looks good, and I could risk fugging it up by correcting it, but it's shiny enough for me, so I won't. Haven't noticed any paint defects yet, but I'm not going to look too close.

I guess we shall see. I just found out I had about $400 laying around doing nothing in my paypal account, so I went ahead and spent $255 of it and bought the E2000. Looks like it only takes about 20 minutes tops to install, and most of that is getting the tools together and the intake junk out of the way. Got cans on my 2013 ZL1 and 2010 Camaro SS. Don't get much out of them, but at least peace of mind. Even if they arguably aren't required, they surely do not hurt to collect oil that shouldn't be in that tube in the first place.

Nice video. I know this thread's a few months old, but rather than start a new one... I think I'm going to try the E2000 can for my new truck. It's only got 350 miles on it now, but the sooner I get started on it, the better. The 6.2L PCV line is much shorter as it goes from under the throttle body just like the 5.3L but just runs to the top side of the throttle body instead of 1/2 way down the intake. And although technically they shouldn't cancel a warranty, I'm not going to take any chances. I'm going to keep the factory PCV hose and disconnect/remove that can if I ever have to take it in for service. I'm probably going to add a ball valve as a drain valve to the bottom of the can so I don't have to wear out the o-rings, too. We'll see how hard it is to reach once it's installed.

I was just mentioning it as a question. Where is the remote receiver? In the tail gate or the truck? Reason I ask is that if the receiver is in the tailgate, you'd have to swap your receiver from the Chevy tailgate to the GMC one. Otherwise, your fob won't allow you to open the gate at the push of the tailgate button. But if that were the case, your remote and dash button should work on it also. I'm not familiar with the wiring and sensor locations for the gates. If the release solenoid gets power from a separate source that needed to be wired in separately, then the locking feature would be lost as you couldn't remotely operate it and the fob would have no effect. Maybe my truck is different? I don't know. I do know that I cannot walk up to the doors or tailgate and get them open without the fob in my pocket or nearby. So if the receiver from the fob is in the truck to activate the tailgate, you should be golden. If it's inside the tailgate, you may need to change that out. I have no idea about Silverado tailgates and how they operate. I've never looked at them.

My first Multi-pro tailgate. 2020 Sierra. Yay! It opens ok, with or without the remote and folds down nicely and all that. It's obviously a heavy mofo because the first time I went to close it the gate is supposed to have the lift assist, right? Dang, it sure didn't feel like it. Maybe it does, but just being heavier than a regular gate has it feeling different. But every time I go to close it, it goes part way up and there's like a popping or clunking noise. It doesn't seem to deter it from closing at all, but it keeps making a noise every single time. There's nothing in the way that I can see, but maybe it's something I can't see. Is this a normal thing with the Multi-pro or is it abnormal? My old regular gate truck didn't make any noise and it had the lift assist too. I did a search here, but got no results. Just wondering.

Have a question about this. Even if you just power it up directly, I'm guessing you'd also lose the locking feature of it? It normally acts like the door locks. They won't open unless you have the fob in the vicinity. There's no other provision for a lock, so if that's important to you, I'm not sure how you'd get it to lock in place.

Just checked mine, and it's got E4 rear slider glass. Built 11/16/19. I'm taking that as a good sign?

Got around to sticking them on today. Wife wasn't impressed. She said they're not really that noticeable and kind of get lost in the background. To which I replied, this is exactly what I was hoping for. Just kind of hanging out virtually unnoticed. That's why I didn't want the chrome. Everyone's cup of tea? No. But I like them. Makes me sleep easier. Not a panacea against dings, but I can breathe a little easier without it looking too gaudy. One thing I can say about GM molding adhesive. That crap is like super glue. Once it sticks, it's stuck. Next up- GM Aeroskin II black hood protector/deflector install. After that I'll probably do a bit of tinting (legal), and then probably an Elite catch can.

Yes. Generally, this is exactly how it's done. But the dealer discount may be something the dealer does with GM's blessings or if the dealer is doing it himself. So that part is a "depends". Caveat...it's when you SIGN the purchase order/paperwork. Let's say the dealer has a truck in the system right now. But the truck's TPW (target production week) is July 27. It won't be shipped to the dealer until AFTER July 31. BUT- if you go in on July 31 and sign the purchase order for the truck, provided it's been built and has a VIN, you have officially purchased said truck and "took delivery" July 31, and you would be entitled to any and all rebates/incentives available on July 31. It's a gamble though. Let's say they back it off the train or truck or whatever, and smoosh the fender. Too bad, you already own that truck, you can't walk away from it. And what really would suck is when Aug 1 rolls around and they're offering $2K more in incentives than they did just the day before. Guess what? You bought it last month, so the higher rebates don't apply. Of course, if they offer $2K LESS than that Aug 1, then you make out like a bandit, even though you won't be picking up your truck in person until sometime in August.

Excuse me. I didn't realize while I was posting general information that I was put on this earth at this specific time to answer your question in order to participate in a 17 page thread with tons of information already. But from what I understand, these "parts" will only register up to 100 psi. Not sure what temperature they max out at. So anything over that, you'll probably have to manually check the tires. There is cold max pressure and temperature rating information molded or stamped into each tire's sidewall that should get you the information you desire. Or, you could contact the tire manufacturer or their website for more specific information. I've read some blogs recently about most TPMS internal temp sensors have a warning level of 158 deg. F. For what it's worth. I'm not sure what warning level these particular TPMS sensors have. I know that doesn't help you right away, but there's a lot of variables to consider. A lot of trailer tires have a max speed rating as well. Some claim you shouldn't go over 65 mph, while others are ok doing so. Higher speeds and inflation issues, along with loading makes a difference too. Most trailer tires are smaller than the truck tires used to pull the trailer, so the little tires turn faster than the bigger ones, plus depending on what you're hauling, they may carry more load each, sending tire temps higher. Speed has a lot to do with it, so when it's hot as balls outside, it can definitely help your tires by simply slowing things down a little. So like instead of running 75, try 65 during the day when everything is boiling outside. Generally speaking, 200 degrees F is where tires start to fail. But the TPMS area isn't the hottest part of the tire. The tire internal rubber is the hottest. Bearing hubs have heat generation to the table as well. It's probably best to use one of those hand held infrared temp sensors for that. Interestingly, I have one of those from DeWalt but I'm not sure what the emissivity variable is for tires. I may have to check that out one of these days. 148 doesn't seem out of line, but again, is this a loaded trailer or empty? If it's empty, that's not leaning to the good side. If you're rolling in already 105 degree heat, the temperature of the highway is likely hotter than that. I'd say in those conditions, if you stay at 148 on average, then I'd look into some perhaps better rated tires or something. But if that's simply your peak max, your not doing too bad. But that's just my opinion. I'm not a trailer expert. Never claimed to be. I'm just another dude on the internet with an opinion.

Loss of warranties due to catch cans do happen, although it rarely happens. Or rarely talked about. Don't know which. Usually the voids are from stupid dealer techs who don't have a good understanding of the systems and start blowing whistles because it's easier than trying to correctly diagnose issues. MMWA is only worth it if you have enough money to waste on a lawyer. There's what MMWA says, and then there's reality. Good luck. Unfortunately, every catch can thread evolves into a warranty discussion and/or whether you feel you need one or not. It's going to happen. Every. Single. Time. Looking at pictures of 1/2 ounce of oil gets boring fast. Discussions go astray. It always happens. My results? I don't drive with my foot on the floor all the time so my canisters don't fill up with more than a thimble full of oil at most between changes. So I'm not going to post any pictures unless it's more than a Bounty towel wipe up. Maybe I got lucky. Who knows? But I can rest easy knowing my intake runs cleaner than most. You're doing the environment a big favor by the oil collected that would otherwise coat all the wrong things in your engine and get burned and tossed into the atmosphere. One droplet at a time. Consider the old PCV systems of yesteryear used a pitot tube that went down the back of the engine and air flowing over the end of it drew out the engine pressure and any oil vapors. Right there on the road. My, we've come a long way.

Strangely, there isn't a current option package for 2020 called "Premium Package" (RPO PDP) that I can tell if you tried to order one. I doubt you can anymore, but still. I seem to remember there being a premium package at one point, but can't recall what was in it. It's not available now anyway, so I guess it doesn't really matter. If they do a la carte by getting rid of the Ultimate option (RPO PEC), you'd see a whole lot less "kitchen sink" Denalis. So I doubt you'd see the Ultimate option going away. Only ONE option I wish I could remove from the Ultimate Package and that would be the sunroof. I hate those things on a truck, and I'm not a fan at all of cutting holes in the roof as it is. A leak point. If I were leasing, I'd probably not worry too much about it. I understand it's part of the kitchen sink, but if I had my way, I'd pick that one off. But I guess I'll deal with it.

FYI: GM p/n 84152501 is the "old" part number for the sensors. The sensors new part number is the 84338125. In fact, the old number would show up on the sensors themselves but come inside the GM packaging labeled with the new part number. It's just a part number, change, nothing more. Which it's essentially the right part number whichever one you use. Both are 433 mHz. With GMSPO, sometimes it's as simple as a spec change, or manufacturer change that can change a part number. A revision to the part, however slight, may also trigger a p/n change. In any rate, it's just a catalog number so the parts people can find them. Bottom line, get whichever sensors you can find for the least amount of $$.

Before I traded in my 2010 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 2WD Crew Cab, I had purchased new GM parts for it and bought some new take off stuff from a friend at work. He bought his truck and immediately had the dealership put in LED taillights, exhausts system, lift kit, chrome door handles, tow mirrors and Denali grille. I had planned to use the new parts if I ended up keeping my truck. Obviously I didn't. So here they are. These parts I know will fit 07-13 and even some select 14's. They are STOCK GM. No LED or custom anything. I bought his taillights, black door handles (for trucks with remote locks), and grille from him. They're used, but essentially new, since they didn't stay on but a day after he bought the truck. R&L Tails I'm asking $95 + shipping. Again, these are technically used, but since they're new takeoffs, they look and act new. Grille is the black with chrome surround and comes with the red/chrome stock GMC emblem in the middle. New takeoff. Asking $140 plus shipping. I also have brand new GM complete cowl plastic piece, GM p/n 25905502 and the matching LH and RH end caps, 15946003 and 15946004 that mounts under the windshield going across the back of the hood. Comes with the squirter hose that mounts underneath the cowl piece, the rear hood seal gasket, and the push pin in the center- a special LONG one that helps hold the thing in place. Fits all cab configurations. List price for these would be $275.00. $145 plus the ride for the cowl plastic and end caps. I'm in South Carolina. If it ships to Houston or Chicago, that's approx $55 shipping. It's considered oversize. To Los Angeles, around $80 shipping with FedEx. Just some examples to give you an idea. All 4 black door handles ($85 or best offer), and brand new GM, between door sealing strips, QTY: (2). GM p/n 22766422, ($38 for the pair) are on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/sch/69hurstolds/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from= Pics of the cowl pieces below. I'll try to get pics of the taillights and grille up soon. I take paypal or you could send a USPS money order. All payments in USD.

Price is probably nice too. Too late for me. I've already got mine polished up and ready to install. Fitting around the emblems make them a bit wider than I was wanting anyway. PLUS - they're in Quebec, so there's border costs, as well as they're probably not real affordable, and there's nothing on the website saying they'd paint them body color for you as it is, so I'd be doing almost the same thing I just did.