2020SierraDenali

Finally got around to installing the E2000 can on the truck. Pretty straightforward. Looks nice overall, but a couple things that wasn't pleasing was that somehow the clamp didn't hold the can tight. And the clamp bolt was very tight. Hit a bump and the can would slide down. I removed the can then wrapped a single piece of electrical tape around the can top and then mounted the can into the clamp. Problem solved. I could have bent the clamp a tad to get it out of round a bit to reduce clearance, but didn't want to risk screwing it up too badly. There was just a minimal amount of oil in the intake and PCV tube. I cleaned that up best I could, but we'll see how it holds out. The other thing was how close it was to the oil fill cap. So I bent the "L" bracket slightly to give the can more clearance around that fill cap. Again, problem solved. The factory style clips and AN fittings made it super simple to connect. I still need to re-orient the can a little better about 180 degrees and get the hoses a bit neater. I was just trying to get it not to fall at this point, and when I took the picture I realized I can do a bit better with the aesthetics part of this. I put my PCV "return to stock in about 5 minutes" kit in a bag, then put that in the storage bin under the back seat. It consists of the original PCV pipe, 7 mm socket (for the air cleaner clamps), 10 mm socket, 7/16" socket and 7/16" wrench, and a small ratchet handle with an extension.

BTW, if you ordered parts through your local dealership parts counter, shipping is free as well. Accessory part or even a part that's not an accessory. Need spark plugs? Order them up, no shipping charges. No matter how much the parts cost. $5 or $5000. Free shipping when you order GM parts through the dealership. If they do charge you for shipping from the GMPSO warehouse to the dealership, their boning you. I know it sounds crazy because they charge shipping for the dang truck they sold you. But not the parts. It pays to have a relationship with the dealership guys, especially the service and parts managers.

If you know the part numbers, check with your local dealer. Sometimes they can order up stuff for a better discount than 20%. On a LOT of things. My dealer gives me a 25% below MSRP discount on anything I buy there. Also, check the part numbers at some of the other dealer websites for ordering parts. I bought painted wheel well moldings from ShopChevyparts.com, normally 650, for somewhere around 485 SHIPPED! Even if you had the 20% coupon for it, you'd pay 520 PLUS more for shipping. So it pays to check around. Unless you just want to pay more for the same part number.

And FYI: I checked out the part number for this and the above number according to the parts catalog is for fitting 2018 and is also listed under part ACDelco GT376. The parts catalog calls out ACDelco GT377 or GM p/n 84214460 says it's for T1, 2019/20 (and probably going to be the same for 21). The 352 MAY fit 19/20? I don't know. The lock appears to be in a different clock position. That's the only difference I see, really. I just did a dealer VIN check for my 2020 GMC, and they said I should get GM p/n 23389451. I dunno what the deal is. I checked out the part numbers and it appears the 451 number is simply a supersession of the 460 number. Still shows a GT377 based on the information I dug up. It appears to be a locking PLASTIC cap. Not appearing to be super solid. So yeah, it's going to be only as good as a honest vandal/thief deterrent. Anyone who really wants to dump dirt in your tank...will.

Excellent info to know. Especially will come in handy if you can find a Multi-pro in your color! I would IMAGINE (no proof) that the upper center solenoid is simply piggybacked off the harness for the main gate solenoid so plugging up the power from the truck pigtail will be a one and done. Also, does the power lift on Silverado allow the multi-pro to work? Or is power lift an option? Like I said, I'm not very familiar with Silverado. The secondary gate on the multi has only the push button on the back of the tailgate only. No remote. I'm also guessing the main gate latch points are the same between Sierra and Silverado? If it fits, it ships!!!!

Thank you for that. This one doesn't have a drain valve- yet. Like I said, I'm going to make that call once I get it installed and see how it pans out as far as accessibility whether it's easier to pull it or if it's worthwhile to drill/tap and install a drain valve. Going to also get a handle on the O-ring size if I end up pulling it all the time because at $10 each, their O-rings can't be all that special. They should be certified by the FDA or something at that price.

I guess we shall see. I just found out I had about $400 laying around doing nothing in my paypal account, so I went ahead and spent $255 of it and bought the E2000. Looks like it only takes about 20 minutes tops to install, and most of that is getting the tools together and the intake junk out of the way. Got cans on my 2013 ZL1 and 2010 Camaro SS. Don't get much out of them, but at least peace of mind. Even if they arguably aren't required, they surely do not hurt to collect oil that shouldn't be in that tube in the first place.

Nice video. I know this thread's a few months old, but rather than start a new one... I think I'm going to try the E2000 can for my new truck. It's only got 350 miles on it now, but the sooner I get started on it, the better. The 6.2L PCV line is much shorter as it goes from under the throttle body just like the 5.3L but just runs to the top side of the throttle body instead of 1/2 way down the intake. And although technically they shouldn't cancel a warranty, I'm not going to take any chances. I'm going to keep the factory PCV hose and disconnect/remove that can if I ever have to take it in for service. I'm probably going to add a ball valve as a drain valve to the bottom of the can so I don't have to wear out the o-rings, too. We'll see how hard it is to reach once it's installed.

I was just mentioning it as a question. Where is the remote receiver? In the tail gate or the truck? Reason I ask is that if the receiver is in the tailgate, you'd have to swap your receiver from the Chevy tailgate to the GMC one. Otherwise, your fob won't allow you to open the gate at the push of the tailgate button. But if that were the case, your remote and dash button should work on it also. I'm not familiar with the wiring and sensor locations for the gates. If the release solenoid gets power from a separate source that needed to be wired in separately, then the locking feature would be lost as you couldn't remotely operate it and the fob would have no effect. Maybe my truck is different? I don't know. I do know that I cannot walk up to the doors or tailgate and get them open without the fob in my pocket or nearby. So if the receiver from the fob is in the truck to activate the tailgate, you should be golden. If it's inside the tailgate, you may need to change that out. I have no idea about Silverado tailgates and how they operate. I've never looked at them.

My first Multi-pro tailgate. 2020 Sierra. Yay! It opens ok, with or without the remote and folds down nicely and all that. It's obviously a heavy mofo because the first time I went to close it the gate is supposed to have the lift assist, right? Dang, it sure didn't feel like it. Maybe it does, but just being heavier than a regular gate has it feeling different. But every time I go to close it, it goes part way up and there's like a popping or clunking noise. It doesn't seem to deter it from closing at all, but it keeps making a noise every single time. There's nothing in the way that I can see, but maybe it's something I can't see. Is this a normal thing with the Multi-pro or is it abnormal? My old regular gate truck didn't make any noise and it had the lift assist too. I did a search here, but got no results. Just wondering.

Have a question about this. Even if you just power it up directly, I'm guessing you'd also lose the locking feature of it? It normally acts like the door locks. They won't open unless you have the fob in the vicinity. There's no other provision for a lock, so if that's important to you, I'm not sure how you'd get it to lock in place.

Just checked mine, and it's got E4 rear slider glass. Built 11/16/19. I'm taking that as a good sign?

Loss of warranties due to catch cans do happen, although it rarely happens. Or rarely talked about. Don't know which. Usually the voids are from stupid dealer techs who don't have a good understanding of the systems and start blowing whistles because it's easier than trying to correctly diagnose issues. MMWA is only worth it if you have enough money to waste on a lawyer. There's what MMWA says, and then there's reality. Good luck. Unfortunately, every catch can thread evolves into a warranty discussion and/or whether you feel you need one or not. It's going to happen. Every. Single. Time. Looking at pictures of 1/2 ounce of oil gets boring fast. Discussions go astray. It always happens. My results? I don't drive with my foot on the floor all the time so my canisters don't fill up with more than a thimble full of oil at most between changes. So I'm not going to post any pictures unless it's more than a Bounty towel wipe up. Maybe I got lucky. Who knows? But I can rest easy knowing my intake runs cleaner than most. You're doing the environment a big favor by the oil collected that would otherwise coat all the wrong things in your engine and get burned and tossed into the atmosphere. One droplet at a time. Consider the old PCV systems of yesteryear used a pitot tube that went down the back of the engine and air flowing over the end of it drew out the engine pressure and any oil vapors. Right there on the road. My, we've come a long way.

I'd say you got a great deal anyway!

Does anybody actually care if someone else buys a DC or CC with their own money? I surely do not GAF. I buy what I want with my money and if you don't like it, I don't care. GM trucks all have their "wish (fill in the blank) was better/available" items, but overall, I'm so blessed to be able to buy a new GM truck, and very pleased that they pushed my schedule up due to the COVID-19 sales on the 2020's. Can't beat those prices. My first truck I ever bought was a used 76 GMC single cab with the camper hauler special package which was a 2WD with 3/4 ton rear end and suspension stuff under it out back with dual fuel tanks along with a 454/TH400 which needed those dual tanks. Has ps/pb, limited slip rear end, tilt wheel and A/C and even cruise control. That's about it. The 454 died so I put a 502 crate motor in it and woke its butt right on up. But that was yesteryear. Today's new trucks have something for everyone. If you like DC, great, go buy one if you can. If you like CC, go get one. Why fight with each other. If you want to do that, go buy a RAM or god-forbid, a FORD. Then it's fight-worthy. Those trucks are needed to keep GM going to try and one-up them. Without that competition, GM trucks would suck worse than you think they already do. I am looking forward to the new dashboards whenever they come along. Although I got a sneaky suspicion they're still going to find a way to put something we all won't like on it. Hope they prove me wrong.

A catch can is nothing more than a liquid separator. Does NOTHING for the PCV system as far as functionality. It does provide for a treacherous path for oil vapors trying to get into your intake system. (provided you get a worthy canister). It is not required for your engine to run. The engineering team somewhere along with the bean counters decided that the engine is operational and meets current federal emission mandates as built. It's similar to a water separator for an air compressor system. You know, the one that takes out water from the air line? Pull it out, and the unit still works. Why run a water separator anyway? Oh, yeah. To keep water from getting into your air tools or paint job. If your pretty sure your air is dry, you don't need one do you? How long will that take to kill your air tools? If GM was betting on it, probably longer than the warranty period. Who really knows? So people put water separators in their air lines to keep water from doing downstream damage. Same for people running a catch can to keep oil from ending up in their intake system and on the wrong side of the pistons. Nobody is making anyone use one. You do it because it helps you sleep better at night. If you trade up every few years, then don't worry about it. The cool thing is, if you install one, and get basically nothing, you can always take it off and sell it. At least now you know how much you're sending through to the intake. But with a can, the engine will see a decrease in oil depositing in the intake system, but still, that won't address the fact the oil you collect would normally have ended up in the combustion process if you haven't looked. You're just catching it before it burns. So if you're emptying it way too often, you'll have bigger fish to fry. And if you feel like you're going to lose a warranty over the mere existence of a can, ensure you restore your hoses back to OEM configuration before taking it in. Get some hoses that use the factory style clip points and it's a quick snap back into place and nobody's the wiser. Or make sure the service department folks are on your side when it comes to the catch can. Yeah, aftermarket parts are not supposed to be an automatic warranty void under the MMWA. But some service writers are A-holes and while they may be in the wrong, once they flag you for a voided warranty, good luck getting that restored. But with catch cans comes great responsibility. You need to check it periodically and adjust the check intervals accordingly as to how much is collected. The last thing you need is to never check it and have it fill up and spill over into the intake system.

GM will never be good at flashy interiors. Compared to the competition, they well, just suck. I'm ok with it. The wife's 2019 XT5 interior isn't all that and a bag of chips either. For what you might expect from a Caddy, anyway. I'm not much of an interior guy. Seat belt? Check. Steering wheel and brake pedal? Check. Gas pedal and gages? Check. HVAC with hot and cold ventilation? I'm good. I do have to say that for those hopping in and out of trucks every couple of years, you're likely not going to notice much of a change or improvement. But if you're like me, you keep your truck for SEVERAL years before upgrading. I thought the 2010 crew was a nice little jump up from the 2006 extended cab. I needed more cab room. Otherwise there was nothing wrong with the 06. But when I got out of the 2010 and got into the 2020...night and day. Amazing difference in the interior. Still lots of plastic though. But GM will continue to suck at interiors as long as people put up with it. Blast them at every turn on how bad you hate the interiors, and be specific as to why it sucks. I personally don't give two craps about the chrome knobs, or if they were chrome or not. But if enough people are specific as to what needs fixing, they may...just may...one day listen for a change and do something about it. I'm still learning and getting used to all the gizmos on this beast. The air vented seats are a huge plus and very welcome addition. The only option I didn't get was the option not to make payments. ?

It's a nice to have thing, but not a have to thing, IMO anyway. Would I choose it as a yes or no? Of course. It's very convenient. But for me, unless I'm hauling a big load I'm going to be looking at the top of my Retrax bed cover. So there's that. Big question is, can you add if yours don't have it? And can you do it at reasonable cost? For those that just have to have more gadgets, ok. But I guess the tech stuff is still all sorta new for me coming out of a 2010 GMC Sierra 1500. That truck was a Flinstone mobile in comparison to the 2020 Denali. Except I could buy a Diablo tune for the 2010....darn it.

Just have to remember the $50-60K valued trucks you're getting 10K or so off today is about a $30K truck at trade-in in a couple years or so. Then you'll see sob stories of people getting pissed off at the dealers who will only give them $30K max for a new 2023 1500...the discounts usually cut both ways.

Man, that's a jar full of cheez whiz. You're absolutely right. Even though GM prefers you taking it back to the selling dealer, or at least the same make dealership if not the selling dealer, any GM dealer should be able to handle a warranty issue when you have a warranty issue needing resolving. Those boneheads just didn't want to deal with it.

There's only ONE deal for GMC Sierra for July and that's $6K consumer cash for any 1500 Crew Cab models through 8/3/20. I didn't see anything for any other models. Doesn't mean there's nothing there, but the GMC website doesn't show any consumer cash or financing deals. Employee price for everyone if you're buying a GMC SUV and Canyon, though. WTF. (their caveat- "on MOST models") And $4K off for everything Sierra 2500/3500 EXCEPT AT4. Somebody double check me, I could be wrong.

I just ordered the GMC accessory (Aeroskin II) from Gmpartswarehouse.com under p/n 19418021 I considered some 3M clear bra, but the jack wagons around here I just am not sure how great of a job they do. I've seen some pretty crappy clear bra installations recently. I'm ok with how the aeroskin II looks anyway. I had one of those GM smoked tinted ones on my old 2010. It held up great the whole 10 years I had it, but it is 10 years older technology as well as looks. Came to $97 and change shipped. Autoanything, even with 20% off their Aeroskin II would come to $98 and change to the door. Coin flip, but at least I get GMC reward points since I am buying "GM" parts.

Concur. Let the dealership note, document, and resolve the problem. Most likely it'll be repainting the panel. From what I can gather by inspecting my own, it's potentially possible to repaint it without removal. Just depends on how good the paint shop is that is used to do so. And ensuring they don't get overspray on everything else. I totally agree that if they need to remove the spoiler, that you inspect the headliner BEFORE you take it in and AFTER (document with pictures) if they do grease up your headliner you have some ammunition. Not that it guarantees they'll do anything about it, but if you document stuff they mess up, it's a bit harder for them to flat out deny it. Or, if they're like the handful of dealerships, they'll admit when they break stuff.

I live in SC. State sales tax is legally 6% but on vehicles/boats and stuff, it caps at $500. That just started last year I think. For the longest time, it was capped at $300. So if you buy a car or truck cash out of pocket price of $8,333.33 or more is capped at 500 bucks on sales tax. Don't worry, they get you other ways.

Got it off of ebay from bill cramer GM dealership in Panama City, FL. It was $62 and change shipped with tax. Cheapest I could find anywhere. https://www.ebay.com/itm/84184471-Next-Gen-Silverado-Sierra-OEM-Rubber-Tailgate-Gap-Cover-NEW/273851785369?epid=8029195500&hash=item3fc2d6a099:g:-YYAAOSwx4Rc3xKp