2020SierraDenali

So have I, but many are stainless/chrome, or have chrome in them, or require the removal of the door emblem name. And closer to $200 plus the shipping. TBH, I searched, and couldn't find anything suitable to my liking. I do not want any chrome at all. And I didn't want to lose the lettering along the door. There was one shorty door strip, but the whole thing was stainless. I wanted everything body color. NO chrome. I got about 165 total into my color change over with parts and paint and did it myself, so I got exactly what I wanted and keep my door emblems as well.

Does anybody actually care if someone else buys a DC or CC with their own money? I surely do not GAF. I buy what I want with my money and if you don't like it, I don't care. GM trucks all have their "wish (fill in the blank) was better/available" items, but overall, I'm so blessed to be able to buy a new GM truck, and very pleased that they pushed my schedule up due to the COVID-19 sales on the 2020's. Can't beat those prices. My first truck I ever bought was a used 76 GMC single cab with the camper hauler special package which was a 2WD with 3/4 ton rear end and suspension stuff under it out back with dual fuel tanks along with a 454/TH400 which needed those dual tanks. Has ps/pb, limited slip rear end, tilt wheel and A/C and even cruise control. That's about it. The 454 died so I put a 502 crate motor in it and woke its butt right on up. But that was yesteryear. Today's new trucks have something for everyone. If you like DC, great, go buy one if you can. If you like CC, go get one. Why fight with each other. If you want to do that, go buy a RAM or god-forbid, a FORD. Then it's fight-worthy. Those trucks are needed to keep GM going to try and one-up them. Without that competition, GM trucks would suck worse than you think they already do. I am looking forward to the new dashboards whenever they come along. Although I got a sneaky suspicion they're still going to find a way to put something we all won't like on it. Hope they prove me wrong.

Sanding and sanding and then painting. Here they are after the clear has dried. Now I have to color sand and buff them smooth. The color seems to be spot on, and no discernable seams. Also seems I was able to match the color. Not done yet, but I'll come back tomorrow and hopefully I can get them installed after color sand/buffing and then post up. Probably the only Dark Sky set on earth!

It's a work in progress, so to see if it was even going to work, I cut two pieces off the sectioned part, and glued them together, sanded them, and used it as a test piece to see if I could make them look sort of factory. Looks very passable. On the back side, you can see the seam on the back where it was glued together.

So now I have to section out what I don't want, and by my measurements, the front will only be about 19" long. The Denali emblem takes up some space. Here's what I had to work with, so using a blade for cutting plastic on my chop saw, I trimmed out the section I didn't need, and used JB Weld Plastic epoxy to glue the end back to the shortened piece. Whoever made these for GM has some fairly uneven molds as I found out. Thickness and width aren't 100% accruate when you take a chunk out of the middle of one. Down below is a picture of the shortened fronts and the piece at the bottom is the section that was removed. There's a close up of the glued ends in the bottom pic. They'll need a bit of work with the sanding, but they should do just fine.

After scoping out the new Sierras, obviously I bought one, a 2020 4 x 4 6.2L in Dark Sky. I like it mainly how it came, but the door emblems were moved from the earlier models and they have this nice fat, flat area along the lower door. Like a ridge line or something just WAITING for that POS Pinto that wants to sling open their door right into that piece of real estate. I'm a fairly careful parker, but there's some times you just are going to have to deal with parking lot crazies. We all know that they do not have a body side molding kit for the T1, at least not yet anyway. Especially not even body-colored. The idea in my mind was to try and find something that looks quasi-factory, or at least something that in abstract, GM could have done should they chose to. So searching and looking around, I found 2014-2018 Crew Cab body side molding kits as a good fix for what I wanted. Halfway reasonable in cost, about $150, and approximately suitable length for the doors and should fit right in place. Plus, knowing they're GM parts, they should hold up well. Problem is, they came in white/black/red and whatever colors. Nothing in Dark Sky. Also, which GMC was so nice to do, was to place the Denali emblem (or Sierra, etc.) right along the front of that ridge line. Which is ok, but that means I need a shorter front door piece. No problem. I'll just repaint them. I stumbled across a guy in California that had some white ones, still brand new in the box. Didn't need them any longer, as he was going another route. I picked them up for $100. Bought a paint base/clear kit from AutomotiveTouchup.com as well in GJI Dark Sky premix spray bomb. I'm ready. I think. Turns out, you can't simply "trim" off the end of the body side molding. It's formed on the end to be a color finish. That sucks. So now I have to section out what I don't want and fuse the end back on. This was going to be fun. Here's what the end piece looks like if you cut it.

87 will work in a pinch, but it could re tard timing to keep from knocking. I'd use 90 or better if at all possible. It sort of defeats the purpose using 87. It's recommended that 93 be used, but the truck will work perfectly fine with 91. There's a lot of other variables that could make a difference on how your truck runs at each octane level.

A catch can is nothing more than a liquid separator. Does NOTHING for the PCV system as far as functionality. It does provide for a treacherous path for oil vapors trying to get into your intake system. (provided you get a worthy canister). It is not required for your engine to run. The engineering team somewhere along with the bean counters decided that the engine is operational and meets current federal emission mandates as built. It's similar to a water separator for an air compressor system. You know, the one that takes out water from the air line? Pull it out, and the unit still works. Why run a water separator anyway? Oh, yeah. To keep water from getting into your air tools or paint job. If your pretty sure your air is dry, you don't need one do you? How long will that take to kill your air tools? If GM was betting on it, probably longer than the warranty period. Who really knows? So people put water separators in their air lines to keep water from doing downstream damage. Same for people running a catch can to keep oil from ending up in their intake system and on the wrong side of the pistons. Nobody is making anyone use one. You do it because it helps you sleep better at night. If you trade up every few years, then don't worry about it. The cool thing is, if you install one, and get basically nothing, you can always take it off and sell it. At least now you know how much you're sending through to the intake. But with a can, the engine will see a decrease in oil depositing in the intake system, but still, that won't address the fact the oil you collect would normally have ended up in the combustion process if you haven't looked. You're just catching it before it burns. So if you're emptying it way too often, you'll have bigger fish to fry. And if you feel like you're going to lose a warranty over the mere existence of a can, ensure you restore your hoses back to OEM configuration before taking it in. Get some hoses that use the factory style clip points and it's a quick snap back into place and nobody's the wiser. Or make sure the service department folks are on your side when it comes to the catch can. Yeah, aftermarket parts are not supposed to be an automatic warranty void under the MMWA. But some service writers are A-holes and while they may be in the wrong, once they flag you for a voided warranty, good luck getting that restored. But with catch cans comes great responsibility. You need to check it periodically and adjust the check intervals accordingly as to how much is collected. The last thing you need is to never check it and have it fill up and spill over into the intake system.

GM will never be good at flashy interiors. Compared to the competition, they well, just suck. I'm ok with it. The wife's 2019 XT5 interior isn't all that and a bag of chips either. For what you might expect from a Caddy, anyway. I'm not much of an interior guy. Seat belt? Check. Steering wheel and brake pedal? Check. Gas pedal and gages? Check. HVAC with hot and cold ventilation? I'm good. I do have to say that for those hopping in and out of trucks every couple of years, you're likely not going to notice much of a change or improvement. But if you're like me, you keep your truck for SEVERAL years before upgrading. I thought the 2010 crew was a nice little jump up from the 2006 extended cab. I needed more cab room. Otherwise there was nothing wrong with the 06. But when I got out of the 2010 and got into the 2020...night and day. Amazing difference in the interior. Still lots of plastic though. But GM will continue to suck at interiors as long as people put up with it. Blast them at every turn on how bad you hate the interiors, and be specific as to why it sucks. I personally don't give two craps about the chrome knobs, or if they were chrome or not. But if enough people are specific as to what needs fixing, they may...just may...one day listen for a change and do something about it. I'm still learning and getting used to all the gizmos on this beast. The air vented seats are a huge plus and very welcome addition. The only option I didn't get was the option not to make payments. ?

It's a nice to have thing, but not a have to thing, IMO anyway. Would I choose it as a yes or no? Of course. It's very convenient. But for me, unless I'm hauling a big load I'm going to be looking at the top of my Retrax bed cover. So there's that. Big question is, can you add if yours don't have it? And can you do it at reasonable cost? For those that just have to have more gadgets, ok. But I guess the tech stuff is still all sorta new for me coming out of a 2010 GMC Sierra 1500. That truck was a Flinstone mobile in comparison to the 2020 Denali. Except I could buy a Diablo tune for the 2010....darn it.

Just have to remember the $50-60K valued trucks you're getting 10K or so off today is about a $30K truck at trade-in in a couple years or so. Then you'll see sob stories of people getting pissed off at the dealers who will only give them $30K max for a new 2023 1500...the discounts usually cut both ways.

Man, that's a jar full of cheez whiz. You're absolutely right. Even though GM prefers you taking it back to the selling dealer, or at least the same make dealership if not the selling dealer, any GM dealer should be able to handle a warranty issue when you have a warranty issue needing resolving. Those boneheads just didn't want to deal with it.

There's only ONE deal for GMC Sierra for July and that's $6K consumer cash for any 1500 Crew Cab models through 8/3/20. I didn't see anything for any other models. Doesn't mean there's nothing there, but the GMC website doesn't show any consumer cash or financing deals. Employee price for everyone if you're buying a GMC SUV and Canyon, though. WTF. (their caveat- "on MOST models") And $4K off for everything Sierra 2500/3500 EXCEPT AT4. Somebody double check me, I could be wrong.

I just ordered the GMC accessory (Aeroskin II) from Gmpartswarehouse.com under p/n 19418021 I considered some 3M clear bra, but the jack wagons around here I just am not sure how great of a job they do. I've seen some pretty crappy clear bra installations recently. I'm ok with how the aeroskin II looks anyway. I had one of those GM smoked tinted ones on my old 2010. It held up great the whole 10 years I had it, but it is 10 years older technology as well as looks. Came to $97 and change shipped. Autoanything, even with 20% off their Aeroskin II would come to $98 and change to the door. Coin flip, but at least I get GMC reward points since I am buying "GM" parts.

Concur. Let the dealership note, document, and resolve the problem. Most likely it'll be repainting the panel. From what I can gather by inspecting my own, it's potentially possible to repaint it without removal. Just depends on how good the paint shop is that is used to do so. And ensuring they don't get overspray on everything else. I totally agree that if they need to remove the spoiler, that you inspect the headliner BEFORE you take it in and AFTER (document with pictures) if they do grease up your headliner you have some ammunition. Not that it guarantees they'll do anything about it, but if you document stuff they mess up, it's a bit harder for them to flat out deny it. Or, if they're like the handful of dealerships, they'll admit when they break stuff.

I live in SC. State sales tax is legally 6% but on vehicles/boats and stuff, it caps at $500. That just started last year I think. For the longest time, it was capped at $300. So if you buy a car or truck cash out of pocket price of $8,333.33 or more is capped at 500 bucks on sales tax. Don't worry, they get you other ways.

Got it off of ebay from bill cramer GM dealership in Panama City, FL. It was $62 and change shipped with tax. Cheapest I could find anywhere. https://www.ebay.com/itm/84184471-Next-Gen-Silverado-Sierra-OEM-Rubber-Tailgate-Gap-Cover-NEW/273851785369?epid=8029195500&hash=item3fc2d6a099:g:-YYAAOSwx4Rc3xKp

Pics installed. Not much to see, especially no gap.

Here's a pdf file for install on standard or multi-pro tailgate. 2020 GMC Tailgate Gap Spacer Installation Instructions.pdf

Just got done installing a tailgate gap cover p/n 84184471. I had a bedrug full liner in my last truck, so the liner already came with the carpet bridge already there so I didn't have to worry about crap falling in between the bed and tailgate. Easy to do. It's double faced taped in place at the bottom of the tailgate and fits the GMC multi-pro tailgate no issue. Fits the standard tailgate too. I don't think it fits Carbon pro bed, though. Not sure. Followed the generally cheesy instructions, but the idea is to open tailgate, take off the cover which covers the bottom inside area of the tailgate, (10 screws, T15 torx head on either standard or multi-pro gate) and the rubberized edge fits up against the vertical panel of the bed and the bottom edge of the horizontal bed channels. Laying out the strip before pulling the double faced tape pre-mask and dry fit it so the lip is making contact with the vertical bed panel and the horizontal channels at the same time. It comes with 2 alcohol pads to clean the area where the mounting tape goes, so clean the areas well where the tape will stick. Then, while placing one palm on the gap cover and then pulling the pre-mask strip slowly out of the channels, press down firmly as you go to maintain the position until the entire pre-mask is removed and the gap cover is pressed down into place. It's just kind of a large lip seal which is up out of the way, until you lower the gate, and poof, instantly keeps rocks, tools, etc., from falling in the gap. There's a hex key bolt on the passenger side and the gap cover has a pre-cut notch that clears it. Helps in placing the gap cover in the right place as well. After installation, you replace the tailgate cover which covers up the top edge of the gap cover. 10 screws and done. Again, pics to follow.

I got mirror cameras and the puddle lamps too. I don't have the square tow mirrors though. Just the regular Denali mirrors.

2020 Sierra 1500 4x4, Crew Cab, SB, 6.2L Denali MSRP: $69,895 GM Legacy Employee Price: $63,309.04 Rebates: ($6,500 consumer purchase cash until May 31, 2020, $500 consumer purchase cash for using GM financing, $500 Ultimate Denali discount.) Total savings: $14,085.96 Taxes/Title, admin fees, etc.: $845 OTD price: $56,654.04 Trade-in allowance and Cash Down Pmt : ($37,654.04) AMT Financed : $19,000 (payment $341.32/month for 60 months)

Yesterday I ordered a Retrax Powertrax MX Pro 90481 or whatever it is for the Denali. I don't need the extra mounting provisions for extra stuff, so the MX will work for what I need. Plus it's matte black, which I like. I waffled on getting the electric or the manual version. I finally decided because of the 3 year warranty, and generally positive reviews on it, I'd try the power version. Considering the wife is kind of vertically challenged, she would appreciate the electric version. It's not going to be a work truck, so I'm banking the electric version will get me by for what I need. If I were going to use it every single day, I'd probably have got the manual version. Plus, I was able to use the 10% discount it made me feel a little better about dropping large $$ on a bed cover. Which every bit helps. At about $2500 delivered and I have to install it, I'm hoping it's the last cover I got to buy. Doesn't look too difficult to install, though. One thing I did read about on a couple of occasions the stick on Retrax emblem possibly is a "self-removing" emblem and can fall off and get lost in the canister. We shall see. Not a huge fan of losing a little bed space for the canister, but it's not a total loss. If it were a full size bed it probably would be more tolerable, obviously, but I think once I get used to it, it'll be ok. I don't normally use the entire bed space anyway, but now that I'm getting a Retrax, I'll suddenly need the entire space. But if worse came to worse, it doesn't seem like a huge PITA should I absolutely need to remove the unit from the truck temporarily should I really need that space. Although, I am concerned about a couple of things about it and didn't think about them until today. Not deal killers, but stuff I probably should have thought of yesterday morning to consider before I ordered it. Like, after the warranty period, can you buy parts to fix it if it breaks? First, if the motor messes up or lose power to the unit, apparently you're just screwed as there doesn't seem to be a method of manually closing or opening the unit if you couldn't get the motor to move. Second, is there an override somewhere on the unit to locally operate the motor or is it entirely remote operated? Or a brake release lever? It would be kind of nice to have a hard-wired controller inside the truck or a way to mount one using switched power or something. I don't know. Probably leave a remote in the locked security box in the console. I don't need another fob hanging on my key fob. I didn't think about these things before I ordered it. Let's hope that I'm not disappointed with this expensive AF Retrax product or I guess everyone will hear about it. I had a quad backflip on the 2010 and it was a very good cover for what it was. I added a couple more little seals in the front to make it pretty much water tight. However, the rubber bits between the panels underneath were simply glued in, and using it over the years along with the hot SC sun in the summer which allowed the glue to soften and the rubber seals underneath to pull loose, wad up a bit when trying to put the cover down again. I also did not like the idea of the way it folded up and blocked the rear glass when hauling bigger loads. Otherwise, it was a very durable and good cover. These are some things to consider when thinking about which cover to buy, especially a Retrax unit.

Not trying to necromance the older thread here, but rather than have 40 different threads on a single issue (like the exhaust threads) I'd put my reply to an applicable existing thread. I've read everyone's posts in this thread. And I'll put another tack on the information board supporting that everyone has their opinion about CC's. At this point, it's simply that. I've used catch cans, and continue to use them, on LS style engines since new before and I have found that they do help remove oil out of the oil vapor PCV system that would otherwise end up inside the intake and engine. Sure as sh*t it would. Where else would it go? No gasoline engine manufacturer to my knowledge designed an engine to run on oil. I get hardly any oil out of them, and have inspected the intake floors for oil and there is none. So it's working properly via borescope inspection through the throttle body. It's not hard to do. Just a few minutes to check on a 5th gen Camaro. I would imagine DI engines would be more susceptible to oil buildup on the back side of the intake valves due to not having a fuel wash, but I only speculate since I've never inspected those types. To the general motoring public, how much does that matter to them? Everyone has made good points on the cons of having a factory-installed system if they put them in. And sure, a typical grandma would never pop the hood on the car to check it. So from the factory, it likely would become a service nightmare. But in general, it's tough to prove that it does "save" an engine in the long run. Common sense and understanding of the system tells you that oil in the intake isn't a great idea. Would you spray it in there if the PCV system vented to atmosphere? No. So there's nobody that will vote yes to add oil to their intake if it wasn't getting any to begin with. That leaves us with FAITH. Faith that although you cannot prove it saves your engine from future damage, there's no proof that a properly functioning CC is detrimental to your engine, either. Not one time have I ever seen or heard of a grenaded engine with autopsy results stating cause of death as "Oil Catch Can Installed in PCV system". As far as warranty issues, I think that's the big scare for a lot of folks. Once GM deems you unworthy of a powertrain warranty, your toast. Best advice is to ASK your service department about this first before you put in a catch can, or as mentioned, make it where you can quickly disconnect it and configure it back to the factory setup. While you can argue the warranty coverage and likely be correct, if they say no, you have no warranty coverage. Too easy for them. Costly in time and money for courts to prove you are right. So while there's no proof it is a Savior, there's also no proof it's a bad thing if you choose to run one. But just like getting a new pet, you have to promise to clean up after it (periodic draining). It stands to reason if you keep out oil in the engine's "lungs" you have less issues due to oil build up. Nothing changes as far as the PCV system. Except where the oil ends up. Would people who vape with those bad vape cartridges that oil up their lungs do well with an oil catch can? Probably. Is a catch can needed? Define "needed" to yourself and you'll have your answer. I think the answer is no, but it's also cheap enough to know you're doing what you can to minimize oil ingestion. Just my opinion.

Hmm. The picture shows the GM promotional picture of what the puddle light projection should look like. It's all kind of useless. It's one of those deals where if you have $100 burning a hole in your pocket and want to do a virtually useless upgrade...I went back and edited my post and uploaded the saved picture of the same thing. Maybe it will work now.