Took a cut off wheel & mini sledge to my truck, no problem (can't tell that I did it either). Your right, It's the guys that want a cool set up but don't want to have to cut/chop at all. It's not that big of deal unless you have no mechanical skills or don't want to pay somebody, then yes it's a problem.
I have a i3 and Lew's tune. Pretty happy with how my truck runs. That said I can totally relate to what the OP said. The quality of the unit is that of cheap Chinese electronics, it's not some bad A** solid unit. Also the steps to load/tunes are wonky and it's like they tried to dumb it down too much for novices actually making it less clear how to use IMHO It can do quite a bit once you figure it out and can definitely get you where you want to go. Lew's customer service is great. All that said hindsight I would have just done HP and found the right guy locally to tune it with both a dyno and drivability tune, plus the ability to share tunes is cool. For doing basic stuff and basic tunes, there is nothing wrong with Lew's service and he does a good job. For a full custom tune with timing changes and digging deep into the program you need someone who specializes in that level of tuning. ( I believe Lew does not claim to change everything or do highly modded engines). The i3 unit on the other hand is great if you don't have access to a local tuner, and just want a cleanup of the fueling and some various parameters /flags changed. I agree the unit itself and what I have seen of customer service is not all that. OK, I'll be honest it is junk, but it works just like all the other handhelds and can do custom tunes - that is it's redeeming quality. I wouldn't throw it away, it may be something you are doing, I found a couple of steps unclear and had to figure out how to work the thing and access files in the correct sequence. Now I almost like it (the i3 unit) because I see that it can do & access many PIDS and make tuning changes yourself, just is cumbersome in the steps and again the physical unit itself is garbage, meaning the touch screen and buttons do not always work as they should and you cant proceed without the buttons working. I Would much rather use my own laptop and a real program. The other plus of the i3 is you don't "need" a laptop or real program to tune.
Depends on your combo, a stock negative offset wheel is not that bad. Just go 1" larger in diameter over what you have, or add negative offset and things change. Then start off roading and you will find out what the problems are. The wheel can't fully articulate in the stock well. Run offset rims and a larger tire, you can have metal digging into a tire. Have it to the point where you literally can't turn the steering wheel but 1.5 rotations - a lot of stuff comes up that plain does not work. It's not some case of people just over reacting. There are some guys who tolerate some really sketchy set ups, that are totally rigged. There are some guys who are over sensitive too, but your set up is mild and not really to the point where you encounter the real problems. Go larger than what you have in any direction and you will find out. Try a 34" tire, or a negative offset and the limitations will show themselves. Can't just throw a 35x12.50 on there, which is what starts to look good on these trucks due to the large body size IMHO. I had to do a lot just to run a 33x12.50 on a negative offset wheel without a real lift (2.5" suspension lift).
I have those plates and they make for a clean trim, good value. but if you stay stock height you may need more clearance and there is only so much room to work with. If I remember you said -30 offset, that is substantial. You need a cut and a lift, unless you just want to like a 4"+ lift and could still rub. Most things that clear run zero offsets with a low height lift. Wide negative offsets can work but require work, not plug and play. Notice all the statements on custom offsets have a disclaimer "may not work for you, even though it worked for the other guy". That's because as Txgreek said most people don't fully disclose the truth that they either have rubbing and live with it, or modded more than what they mentioned.
gears increase torque multiplication. You don't get more actual hp or engine torque. You loose torque multiplication when you put on larger diameter tires that effectively changes the gear ratio. (lower numerical ratio happens from larger tires - how much? simple math calculation should be able to find online). Higher gearing (higher numerical value compensates/offsets the reduction from the larger diameter tires & to some extent can add torque multiplication to help with the increased weight). IMHO you really need gears with that much tire, the higher the better, if you could run 5.xx I would. I don't think the factory carrier can go over the 4.56. I think a lot of folks just don't understand the pure physics of large, heavy tires. In the sports car/drag world 1~2 lbs a wheel is noticeable and 1 lb of additional rotational mass takes xxx more HP to turn (I've heard 7 hp). No different in a truck just not as noticeable. A factory tire is like 35 lbs. A 35" tire is 75~ 90 lbs per tire, With a heavy aftermarket wheel you have way more weight than a factory cast aluminum. So you can easily see anywhere from to 25 to 50+ pounds more a wheel rotational mass , plus leverage of a larger tire. Serious increase in forces required just to turn the wheels. On a diesel with 800ft-lbs not that big of deal, on a gas truck it's a dramatic performance sucker. I would gear, tune, and get a exhaust.
No. I'm running 33x12.50 on a -25 with a 2.5 suspension lift & had to norcal cut to make it work. That offset would rub on just a 2 to 3 inch lift. People claim you can do it. In my real world experience no way. Unless you like extreme rubbing and only being able to turn your wheels so far. 6 point turns type of thing. Have to three point just going left or right in a parking lot. You need the norcal trim more than the lift for clearance.
Was going to check the runner gaskets for overall condition (on the older moels as they age would form air leaks after about 3~4 years). Getting ready to inspect the intake valves for carbon buildup and determine it they need cleaning since it's direct injection. Plus I don't like covers and tend to leave them off unless they have a specific purpose.
On the 6.2 Silverado, there is a cover (not like the one pictured) that goes over the actual intake. Looks like runners on top of the real runners held down by 4 bolts on the sides and stuff I can't see on the back, and stuff on the rear is mounted to it, very little clearance, I just want to know what I'm working with that is making it difficult to remove, and all the harness connections on the side are removed and out of the way. I don't know what I'm feeling back there and can't visualize it. got one tab still keeping it together I think and it's a bear to get it separated.
OK, looking for a response from someone that has actually done this. It's not just remove the 4 bolts. There at least three push clips or something of that nature on the back of the intake and I have the two on either side removed but can't get to the middle clip very easily. There is some kind of plastic mount and some other plastic running down the back. Hard to work back there and I have big hands. Are there ant tips for doing this? SO far everything is off with the exception of the back middle clip and whatever it's attached to.
Here is a test I'm going to do and document. For all the fellow 14+ owners on this site. In coming months I'm going to walnut blast my intake valves. I've been following issues with DI from various mfg's since say 2010~on. Cases of buildup and the detrimental effects are well documented across the net. I have had a basic Elite catch can installed on my 2015 L86 since about 3k miles from new, now approaching 60k miles. Will take pictures when I pull my intake so we can see what shakes out. I clean out my can every 1~3k miles, Have pulled as much as 2~3oz at a given time. Much rather would pour it out than be ingested. Looked inside my TB the other night and could see a brown film in the intake runners that was not horrible , but no where near clean. This may not be a definitive test, however it will be a "real world" example one way or the other. And no I'm not going to dyno it twice, not that important to me, but I do expect to gain back mileage and HP after the walnut blast. No GDI intake cleaner for me. I appreciate Grumpy's input, however this one is not a myth. The ways to approach the problem are mostly bogus, but the fact that it occurs and degrades performance has tons of evidence. Done years of research on this topic and fully believe a catch can (you figure out which one works for you) and blasting using the correct media is "the Way". When I find out I'll share.
I did something similar with a AEM dryflow and airaid M.I.T. intake tube. And gained breathing for sure, how much hard to tell as I know the AFE GT momentum I have now gave a whole lot more. But as a free or low cost mod its pretty worth it as long as you live in a climate where water/moisture will not be an issue. In reality probably is as good or better than a lot of the poorly designed aftermarket intakes.
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