Jump to content

kennerz

Member
  • Content count

    272
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

108 Excellent

About kennerz

  • Rank
    Enthusiast
  1. Long Term Carbon Deposits

    So far the catch can is inconclusive as to the results. Will pull mine soon to take a look just need time. Either way, none of those valves look particularly clean to me. The ridge around the valve of carbon will interrupt flow some amount especially at low lift openings. Not as bad of build up as on some of the European cars. But enough to where you would notice if it were cleaned properly, unless you have a numb bottom meter. On a port injected LS that had regular seafoam treatments, you would never see buildup like that unless you had a bad valve guide/seal.
  2. Quick filter question (afe)

    That looks like it's ready to be cleaned to me.
  3. L83 stroker with 4.00" stroked crank

    I would expect that the gen V stuff is different (don't know that you can just drop in a LT crank). and there may not be a readily available crank option that is not pretty expensive, vs all the other things that can add power. L83 doesn't seem to have the following the older LS or the L86/LT1 do.
  4. UCA's ???

    I have cognito and don't agree. They are not perfect but the build quality is there. They do need to be checked for frame clearance at full bottom, and just need a small notch to clearance. Ball joints are a standard widely available variety that can be upgraded easily. That said the uniballs you mentioned are great, but start in the $800 plus range and you will have the increased noise and maintenance of a uniball. not a bad choice but be aware your not going to install and never touch again. And if you don't have good extended travel shocks a uniball is overkill IMHO. the other options are the cheaper $300 range arms that are almost all junk. So for $500 the cognitos are a viable option, knowing that you will probably need to upgrade the balljoints at some point and slightly clearance the frame during install. Strength wise they are well built, strong arms.
  5. I hate my 6" Suspension lift

    We all took the bait...
  6. I hate my 6" Suspension lift

    I did 33"s on 22x10 with a 2.5 suspension lift and actually like it with exception for the trade offs in acceleration, top speed and mileage. Any more and it would suck. Using a spacer type lift takes away a lot of the performance as does large, heavy wheels. Drop it to a 4" or less and re-gear and you might like it. Lift design comes into play a lot. and accounting for the heavy tires with gears and tune can give you back a lot. However, stock light weight wheels on factory sizes keep mileage and handling. Shouldn't cost a lot to return to stock.
  7. Going to change the filter on the 8 speed soon. From what I'm seeing it looks like a minor ordeal with draining fluid and then getting the correct fluid level. I don't want a dealer flush. Saw the B&M dipstick (seems pretty expensive for what it is) but. could remove the valve on top/side of the transmission (the plastic one with the lock) Pump out most of the fluid in the pan to minimize the mess when dropping the pan. Then use the dipstick on the refill and for checking the level after the filter change. Thoughts on this or really asking if anyone has bought this and if the quality is good or not. Wanting to possibly do an oversized cooler and remove the thermos (however you do that). The B&M pan seems a little overpriced as well, and it's hard to justify nearly $800~1,000 for a stick, deep pan, cooler and the correct fluid. (was looking at the mishmoto trans cooler kit.) I'm a firm believer that cool trans temps keep them alive much longer, but the is a limit $$ on the cost vs benefits. on my '04 I put the largest hayden (motorhome 30Kgvr) for around $100 on 45 min install, and had zero problems. I'm afraid this is not going to be that easy or cheap.
  8. King Off- Road Kit

    How did this turn out? I find with the kings you get spoiled pretty quick and forget how bad it was stock and start to see and feel the other design limitations of the truck. for a street/off road truck out of the box they are hard to beat. That said they are not magic and to covert it to a pre runner requires a lot of other work. However they do up the limits everywhere from factory quite a bit. Are they worth it? overall yes, no doubt. but you have to keep your expectations realistic, don't put on 2.5's and think you can start jumping a crew cab. 1~4ft of air youtube style ah no... 3.0's maybe ?
  9. Just put 35"s on... JK I know a tire change after a lift is $$$ if you already bought tires.
  10. Agree, that looks like more than 4". And springs will settle some after a few weeks of driving, but not that much at most maybe 3/4 of an inch.
  11. Depends what state you are in. In most smog Nazi states anything modded before any factory installed cat is illegal. Do whatever you want after the cats. If your in a state where it's not an issue doesn't make any difference.
  12. UCA thread.

    Anytime you lift it much over 2 inches to improve/restore proper ball joint angle. Depending on design better durability, strength. Improved articulation (uni balls). better a-arm bushings. Clearance. rigidity. That's about it. Just they are not all created equal. Some of the cheaper ones out there are not as good as OEM. Dirt King, JBA off road, and Cognito are all on the higher end side, but are way more than say a rough country/ rancho. There are a lot of complaints out there for the lower end stuff. However things like Uni-balls are overkill for a lifted street truck and are high maintenance.
  13. Is that the $1500~1800 SET UP? THAT'S WHAT I'm talkin bout! If your gonna do less -do less, or go for the real deal. No tweener - throw together set up. Rather lighten my wallet for that.
  14. This is a really good assessment. I have an early 15' 6.2 8 speed with a little over 60k miles. It's tuned (engine and trans) and shifts better than stock, but cold it does weird stuff the 1st couple of minutes. Especially on the first pull away from a stop. Mainly shift weird sometimes at light throttle inputs. A clunk here or there. But (crossing fingers) no real issues to speak of other than what I described. Great through the gears under throttle. I had the fluid changed at 40k, and will do fluid and filter soon. The stock internals have handled twin turbos and blowers so it's really a strange low speed drivability issue that can be improved greatly but doesn't go away 100%. Does not "feel" analog like some of the other older GM trans, definitely not as predictable. But in some ways feels better than others at other times. From my personal experience once tuned on the street in the "real world" it blows doors on all other trucks including everything new you can think of and I live in a big city., I would not overlook buying the truck because the transmission, the magazines are not all the way truthful about the exceptional performance cause they have to keep the advertising dollars from dodge, toyota, and ford coming in.
  15. I'd be real careful about doing any sort of OEM based swap. There are other dimensions that come into play in a car vs truck. Not just oh it's bigger and has more pistons. Rotor thickness, pad swept area, pad thickness pad contact area , etc..for a much heavier vehicle all come into play. For like a /3rd/4th gen camaro to add another GM vette/Cadillac of similar weight you are into a more apples to apples swap that still has potential problems with brake bias and master cylinder piston area/size. It works in a lot of cases, but not always plug and play. Same issues plus the one mentioned in the 1st paragraph for trucks. All the more reason to spend a couple of hundred bucks more on an aftermarket kit. The 2019 truck brake swap sounds better but may not be that much more of an improvement, who knows and may have different master/booster. Wilwood is not junk, nor is GM oem. Just Wilwood even states that their system needs increased maintenance so you have to keep that in mind. Not saying Wilwood is the best, but wouldn't hesitate to run it either as they are a good value. Brakes are the last area I would cut corners. You have an accident with your cobbled together brake system and hurt somebody or yourself and it's on you. If your looking to save a buck just get real good pads, decent rotors, braided lines and serious fluid. If you want real brakes, save pennies and get a real system and make sure you understand proper set up and break in. Good aftermarket systems will showcase the OEM inadequacies. Just like suspension, you only know the best you have run.
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.