Kelly at KMS performance. Tuning guru. mainly bikes , side by sides and quads but does cars and trucks too. Industry expert in tuning theory and application. From a turbo charged lambo to Harley's to mx snow bikes. Expert, honest, and more than fair prices for what he provides. He's big on giving the best value. Tunes to perfection, not just good enough.
There is some solid theory in this thread. In the "real world" the 6.2 has a necked down 3.5" system with various choke points.TO me a an exhaust is only as large as it's choke points. And that flapper is in now way a highflow item. There is also no way a 3" is adequate at this HP level. Ok but there is some HP being left on the table for sure. When it comes time I"m going to do a custom true 3.5" cat back with just a 3.5" magnaflow muffler and attempt to remove all the restrictions and run no flapper or OEM resonator and see where it gets me. That said the bolt on magnaflow catback for the 6.2 with 4" tubing should tell us something. an industry leader in exhaust flow tech sized their system at 4" to optimize performance. Granted they know more about this topic than we all do (combined industry experience, hire or have in house engineers, and real world testing). Most shops can't even bend 3.5 inch tubing, let alone test for different configurations of optimal set ups. Every time I went larger on exhaust and sized properly I picked up power everywhere, more frontside torque and better top end. now putting it all in perspective, being bolt ons we are not talking massive gains, just "better" and noticeable. Only reason/argument I could see for keeping backpressure is if the factory cats need heat in the systems to work correctly/efficiently for emissions purposes. Everything on these new trucks is designed to run hot by design intension so as a system they can create a operating environment for the lowest possible emissions. It seems as if a lot of people forget that. Definitely not set up for best performance.
This is not high on the mod list for me but I would definitely consider it. A well made stronger balanced shaft would give a noticeable gain in drivability I would think. Seen the photos of the failures on the newer trucks, not pretty. Also I think many of the vibration problems stem from the factory shaft. Read other threads where vibrations were eliminated from switching to an aftermarket shaft from a reputable vendor. The factory construction is surprising. soo thin... plus on a 6.2 LT that wheel HP level or close to is just a few mods away. A tuned truck will do 100mph effortlessly , the terminal shaft speed of a stock truck is way below a quality balanced shaft. (not advocating speeding). But in the overall scheme of mods seems like it would be worth it. These truck really improve when you replace crappy factory volume parts where they cut corners with solid high performance equipment. They are too fast and powerful to ignore upgrading the generic parts and they don't need much to get a high level of feel and performance. I say do it. the guys in the link in the first post have a great reputation in the muscle car world as well as trucks.
How about a "free-er flowing" hot air intake. I agree that most designs are no better than the factory intake with a "good" (subjective) filter. But there are restrictions in the factory intake and there are a handful of aftermarket designs that perform better- been proven. to say there is no power or efficiency to be gained in any aftermarket design or intake mod is not accurate. trade offs over the oem -sure. Hard to beat the factory filtering effectiveness and low maintenance. but the amount of air that enters that stock box is restrictive. so air the air silencers so is the poorly designed stock throttle body (I'm sure there is a reason for the step, but it causes strange low velocity turbulence and kills response). you would have to monitor AIT's from design to design to prove that a cold air makes no power from all the hot under hood air they access and then show how the ecm pulls timing. I just don't believe you can make a blanket statement and say they all don't work. also to be honest they need the tune to really exploit the increase in flow but still they work in letting it breathe better, not a placebo effect. I have a carefully pieced together aftermarket intake/filter/modded tb combination and if I take it off and slap the factory stuff back on it feels like a dog.
285/50 fits too or even a 33x12.50. thing is are you willing to do what it takes to make it work. (cutting or trimming, at worst case norcal mod). I'm getting ready to do this myself and can't quite decide. seen 33x12.50 in person and it looked great. the 285/50 is actually a 33.5 by 11.70 so close to the 55 series just a little less diameter vs the 55 series at 34.3 by 11.70. I just decided that it looks so much better than the 285/45 I'm going mod as needed. going to do a 2~2.5 suspension in the front and 1.5 blocks in the rear. Only problem is the 285/55 might have issues when the suspension cycles through its range.
A lot of truth here. Supercharge. if your smart add thermal management (radiator, correct? trans cooler set up, whatever else you need) & add + $1500 to your blower bill. nobody admits to do it right (forced induction) is closer to $10k even with a off the shelf set up.
Pretty cool. that's totally at the ultra light end of the spectrum. That is the lightest of that size I've seen. & living in the socal desert I've seen a lot of what's out there. There are 18ft weekend warriors & carsons that weight that much or more especially older models. Even an all aluminum 28' ATC TH out weights your trailer. Just saying what you own is very light for it's size (much less than the standard). There are a bunch of new 5th wheels the size of your trailer that are close to 15k unloaded (luxurious as hell) that require a diesel. A 32ft weekend warrior bumper pull is over 10k dry. Point is with a normal rig (24ft & up) you can be overweight quickly with a 1/2 ton, and in many scenarios that can be dangerous to everyone on the road. You obviously did your homework and found something that is within margin- good job. but too many Darwin award candidates out there who just push the limits all the time and when they come up short bad things happen. Seen it. More than once. Put it on a scale and it's always more than what people "figured" doing optimistic math. Even if you are good I would always push weight distribution, air bags, and brake controllers at the min. & stay under gvwr. be on the I want to live plan.
That's some advice I would ignore. there is a huge range of weights for TH that length. can get well over 10k easy. Where I live they will pull you over and have you weight, plus check gvwr. Many idiots have yard sales from towing overloaded rigs that can't handle the load. not just "drive easy". people loose lives that way. Never seen a 35' bumper tow or 5th wheel that only weights 9k fully loaded (new mega light model?). with what? bicycles & a easy up? never seen a 35ft 5th wheel toy hauler under 12k lbs. A 7k 25 footer with a 2k sxs and fully wet and loaded is 10k easy. Now if your talking a mid-west style enclosed with a bathroom, that's not a true toy hauler IMHO. that's a gooseneck/enclosed/race trailer. all the trucks we have max capacities of 9~10k with the exception of the max tow package, then you have 12k. but why buy a trailer where you kill your truck and skim by on capacity? Get the right truck or trailer for the job, I would never buy more trailer than the truck I have. Been mentioned in many posts before in reality, you can't change your max gvwr towing capacity listed on your door. Make it tow better sure. increase capacity - no, you will get the ticket. Next you can recommend to tow a 25 footer with a four runner or an Colorado- just take it easy. Only way is a half ton towable loaded under the vehicles max gvwr. on the door. Just cause it will do it definitely does not make it smart..
re-gear..and do everything else that was mentioned. A 25ft TH is pushing the half ton limits especially on a 5.3. Depends on how much it weighs? if its a older one pushing 10k and you load it with toys, you pretty much need more truck. There is a big difference between "will do it" and "was made for" that load level. not a lot of meat left on the bone capacity wise.. If its a newer light weight half-ton towable model you are still probably near the max. Hate to mention the "D" word.
California is amazing. By shear numbers there are a lot of car and truck enthusiast here. The Lib-tards that run the state have done an excellent job at killing everything. Almost all Motorsports, guns, small business. Anything normal men enjoy has a tax or restriction on it. And made it a heaven for: Homeless, criminals, illegals, cho-mos, & all types of dopers. Cal Gov gets a huge chunk of your income any and everyway they can and provide nothing in return (no cops or streets). The state is currently being run aground. The rules were not THAT bad until the prop 65 madness kicked in recently. Now you can't have hardly any engine mods without becoming a outlaw. They want everyone to take public transportation and ban gasoline automobiles. If we are lucky we can ride a green bike (literally lime green), or electric scooter. Have to move out of state to get headers. sign an offroad use waiver to tune. no E.O# can't use it. is as stupid as it sounds.
Yeah, the factory A/F ratios are not optimal though, leave a lot on the table. Agree though, basic good C/A, fix the throttle body (just look at the step in it) and a properly sized cat back and there is power there. get it tuned and there is more. some people have numb butts though and don't notice any mods unless its a super charger. There are many lame designs that don't work, but some do - that's why we compare notes to figure out if a certain product is good or not. just many on here like to tell you how to spend your money, I get tired of that, its your truck. Proven over and over these trucks gain 30~50 rwhp with just bolt ons. remove the torque management then you can feel it. totally agree about the waste of money comment. comes off as hate most the time ( I hate that cause I cant afford it, or don't understand how it works). so many ghey accessories for trucks, you can't criticize them all, not enough time in the day. in the end its all preference. interweb truck advice from keyboard jockey's summary: don't buy a cat back, cold air, catch can, or expensive shocks, stereo, a tuner, or "nice" wheels - all a waste of money. NONE of them work.
second paragraph is the truth about mods without tuning. Chevy's will show a short term gain as the A/F ratio is temporarily leaned out. then over a relatively short period of time the A/F ratio will return to wherever it was stock and it will just suck more air and more fuel untuned and run basically the same, just use more gas. experienced this with any mods without a tune. In fact pretty much all mods are a waste without a tune to correct the fuel ratio and play with timing to maximize gains. Wont run much better until this is done, then once tuned they start to run like they are supposed to uncorked. night and day better. and usually gain efficiency at the same time.
Rest of the truck please. I like all kinds of builds from cut up bush truck to this. Personally I think it's Bad A** & and actually more conservative than some of the high dollar, mall-crawler, disco trucks that literally can't do anything. Color is unique and looks good with white Dispells the myth that 22"s can't off road. Rock crawl and thrash - no, off road with a little caution - all day. If I want to seriously off road it's not in a street truck. rather be on a high performance bike, quad, sxs, or buggy.
I've had one of these for about 6 months. had another Chinese brand before that looked good but eventually partially failed. The putco blade so far has been trouble free and is bright at night. Clean looking light output compared to some of the others. Worth the extra $$ if it lasts.
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