Transient

I use to work at an auto parts store. We carried Exide batteries. We always swapped out unsold batteries that were 6 months old. Might want to look at the manufacture date on the battery. It's often times just a simple circle sticker with a month and year on it, such as 12/23 for December 2023. If it was 6 months or older at the time it was installed that could possibly explain why you experienced the issue you did. The only way it was a 1 week old battery is if it had been manufactured 1 week before it was installed in your truck, but you wouldn't be able to know that info. Best you be able to figure is in months.

2019 is also the 1st model year of the T1s. I never buy a 1st model year vehicle due to that typically being the year that vehicles are more problematic.

You might want to get a 2nd opinion, imo. I have a 2020 with 56,000 miles on the odometer. I'm still on the original brake pads. Only issue I have is the rear brakes squeaking when I first start driving. At the 2nd stop sign in my neighborhood they are quiet.

Rear seat head rests rattling? That's been well documented in this forum. You might want to look into that.

2020 Silverado 1500 with 56k on the odometer. I haven't had any of these problems.

Definitely not that size. That's the same size I upgraded to on my Trail Boss.

If that's what you got out of my post then you clearly struggle with reading comprehension. I didn't say that at all. You had to perform a lot of mental gymnastics to get to that conclusion.

Those aren't assumptions about individuals personally. You're moving the goalposts here. Btw, I recommend looking up the definition of "fair market value". It's not just dealerships that people think are charging too much for services. It's everywhere in society. If the price is too high people will seek the service elsewhere. It's so fundamental that it applies to everything. As for dealerships being called "stealerships", they earned that nickname. The most credible piece of evidence on that right now is market adjustment pricing on new cars. 10 years ago I was seeing $25k markups on Camaro SSs. The stealership closest to my house when I bought my truck wanted $10k more than MSRP. I just learned of a dealership in Van Nuys, CA wanting over $400k for a Dodge Challenger 170 that has an MSRP of ~$113k. They were even charging $495 for nitrogen-filled tires. Perfect examples of stealing, in the opinions of the unwashed masses.

The first part is not entirely accurate. I've never had a problem remote starting my truck with the door windows down, rear window open, or even a door open. I've never tried with the hood open though, so I'm not going to debate that.

Versus $260 for the Rough Country speedometer calibration tool on Amazon. Dealership pricing actually looks like a deal.

That's the point. Nobody should be making assumptions about anybody on any internet forum.

That's very assumptive of you. Have we met before? I'm not sure you know me well enough to be able to say what I would or wouldn't do.

Update on my progress today. Something I expected to be delivered tomorrow actually arrived today, which allowed me to continue my work on the molle panel. I will be working on routing the electrical this weekend.

I got your point, which is why I said "avoid the dealership". It's my point I think you missed. GM isn't serious about getting customers into the service departments at their franchise dealerships. Something as simple as speedometer calibration could go a long way in customer service, customer retention, and generated revenue/increased profits for their dealerships. By your admission they have the technology and means. They just need to stop being so narrow minded.

So, stay away from dealerships. Got it. Glad I didn't buy the SCA Black Widow edition. Ironically, this is counter to what GM says it would be doing for dealers -- get people into the service department to generate revenue for the dealer. You'd think they'd create ways to assist customers as an enticement to get them into the service department. If only they offered speedometer calibration services. I digress and I'm well off topic now, so I'll move along.

Remove sensors, wrap, reinstall sensors. I solved your problem.

Time for the next project. Working on the Vallhalla Offroad molle panel I have on the drivers side of the truck bed. I'm installing an ARB air compressor with 1 gallon tank, and mounting the switch on the panel too. This is day 1. I'm not certain about the orientation of the air tank. The gas can is 1.75 gallons. I always have 2 of them located in the spot you see the 1 in the pic. The location of the air compressor is where it'll be permanently.

It doesn't look any different from the pics I posted in August, but here you go.

Yesterday I pulled my front seats and did some radio installation/relocation. My truck's driver seat is powered by the passenger seat is manual. I originally had my CB and GMRS radios mounted under my passenger seat. I needed to get my ham radio installed, but the bracket and motor for the power seat were taking up precious real estate. I swapped the CB radio to the drivers seat because it's substantially smaller than the Ham and GMRS radios. I then mounted the ham radio to the passenger seat. After routing and cleaning up the wiring with loom and zip ties I put everything back together. Now all my radios are installed and functional. Today I pulled my passenger side molle panel from Valhalla Offroad. I have 2 1.75 gallon water bottles and a 5# fire extinguisher mounted on the molle panel. The fire extinguisher is mounted with 2 Super Quick Fists above the wheel well. The vehicle's vibrations have caused the fire extinguisher to move towards the front of the truck and come out of one of its quick fists. I recently purchased a tall cabinet for sitting things in the garage and it came with an L bracket to connect the cabinet to the wall to prevent tipping over. I mounted that L bracket to the molle panel in a way to stop the fire extinguisher from sliding out of its quick fist. Tomorrow I'm going to remove the drivers side molle panel and start installing an ARB twin air compressor with a 1 gallon tank and air hose. This might take a few days, so it'll be a bit before I post up about it again.

I've been thinking about doing something to my truck. I've been considering a large compass and maybe a map outline. Not totally topography, maybe more colonial era map. My truck has a dark blue and black theme. I just haven't found a design I'm completely sold on yet.

I have been watching Expedition Overland on Amazon lately, and for some random reason started reading this thread again. One thing Expedition Overland emphasized in their Alaska trip was to have 2 spare tires. You're in southeast Louisiana. I'm in Pensacola, FL. I just bought a 5th Trail Boss wheel and upgraded my spare to the 35s I'm running on all 4 corners. My OE 17" spare is sitting in my garage with no vehicle it can be used on. I'll give it to you for free. Send me PM if you're interested. I'm willing to drive as far as Mobile, Alabama if you want to meet up, otherwise you pay for shipping and I'll send it to you. There is a possibility I may end up in Baton Rouge for a few days in a couple months, but that's uncertain right now. Regarding a jack platform, I recently decided to make one out of concern about how the OE bottle jack appears at its limit when used to change a flat tire. I took a 4"×4"×6' post, cut into 6 12" lengths and attached 3 of them together with 2 1/2"×10" hex bolts, 4 large flat washers, and 2 1/2" nuts in each jack base I created. I recessed the hardware to avoid accidentally snagging myself on it. This project gave me 2 jack bases for less than $25 total that measure approximately 12"×10.5"×3.5". It you lose them or they become damaged you don't have much to worry about. The 2 combined are slightly larger and a little heavier than a more expensive jack base commercially available, but imo more capable of handling the abuse of lifting and supporting our trucks while on uneven terrain.

Snopes and Tiktok have always been accurate, lol. It only has to work once to be accurate. There is a difference between a conviction and a denial. If you don't understand that last sentence go see the movie Oppenheimer.

There was no judgement in my initial comment, neither implied nor deliberate. It was merely an example. I did not state anybody without a T1xx platform should go away. I cannot be accused of being hateful when I did not act that way. I'm not going to ask for an apology, just that you please read the messages as they are written.

I don't know anything? I'm not sure where the hate for me is coming from on this one. I likely earned it somewhere else, and can accept that, but that has nothing to do with here. I was pointing out other people without our vehicles pop up in here too. I was hoping the commentor coming at you would back off. Secondly, the stolen vehicle data via first result of Google search, "most stolen cars 2023". #1 is Chevy Silverado model year 2006. https://www.deepsentinel.com/blogs/most-stolen-cars/. It's been that way for a long time. Finally, as for the tennis ball trick, this was discussed in length on another forum many years ago. It may have been as far back as a decade or more ago. I think it was TahoeYukonForum.com. Several people on that forum tried the tennis ball hack and claimed they were successful, but you know what they say. "You can't put anything on the internet that isn't true."

I've seen that done for newer vehicles. They'll hold a large loop antenna up near your house or garage doors and scan for a signal. It's common with newer Toyota and Lexus vehicles. Once they have the signal they're able to replicate with the laptop. These key fobs and push to start ignitions definitely make this an area for concern among GM owners, but, again, when you look at the report details it's not the newer GM rucksack that are leading the stolen vehicles category.